I know it's long im sorry..........

Ok i dropped in a motor recently and had it running (sort of) until i changed the fuel pressure regulator, here's what happend. When i put in the new regulator i forgot about the spacer disc, and i ended up splitting the fuel pressure diaphragm. So i bought a new one and put it in along with the AFPR, i tested the fuel pressure and set it at around 42 (which i think is stock) Anyway i also brought the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke and set the timing so that the rotor button was pointing exactly at the 1st spark tower. Everything is hooked up to spec including the egr, and all the vac hoses. I replaced the ignition control mod, and checked for codes, all i got was 12, which if im not mistaken means all is well, i checked each individual injector plug with an ohm meter, all tested to 12v. Like i said the motor was running about a week ago pretty decent, except in gear which it would die, i contribute this to hoses connected to the wrong places. The cap and rotor ane new and so are the plug wires, although one or two got a little melted but only on the boot, nothing too bad. I connected a timing gun and pulled the trigger and the light flashed so there must be spark. So ive covered fuel spark and air, however no running engine, it just kepps turning over and over with no firing, it makes a few lousy attempts but nothing resembling actual startup. Plugs have some carbon on them, but not alot, mostly because of 4 weeks of failed tuining attempts. I have an aftermarket custom built chip with provisions for my 32#ers still no luck, any ideals what the hell could be going on here. Remember it was running a week ago but not now somthing must have changed but what, any ideas friends ????

 

oh here's the engine specs:

355 .030 over 9.1 compression
AFR 195 heads
Comp Camps roller grind for blower specs:
276 intake
290 exhaust
220 at .050
230 at .050
510 intake with 1.5 rocker
510 exhaust with 1.5 rocker
114 lobe
Crane aluminum rockers 1.6 ratio
TRW blower pistons
Total seal rings
Eagle Sir Rods 5.7
GM 1053 steel crank

 

I hate it when that happens!

I'm 99.99% sure it's timing related. Have you tried turning the distributor ? Have you tried to put it in 180 out from what it is now ? Have your triple checked the firing order ?

 

sounds like fuel to me. almost like the injectors arent firing period? have you unplugged the inj fuse inside the car to keep them from firing? i did that once and forgot to put it back in and the car just cranked and cranked forever. i checked everything and then remembered the fuse, fired right up. also you might want to check the inj fuse and the inj2/fuel pump fuse to make sure they are still good.

 

Good point about the fuses, i forgot to mention that i checked them though, they were both good along with the ECM fuse and the VATS, im still stumped, but i also think it's just not getting the fuel, but the pump does come on, and the filter is about two years old, but no way it's clogged enough to block all passage. When i turn the ignition on the pump pressurizes the fuel rail and the guage read 42 and slowly dropped, but i think thats due to a faulty connecter on the guage, i noticed if i held the connecter on the fitting it would stay up, soooooooo hmmmmm im not sure, anyway any more advice is greatly appreciated thanks buds ! Is there any way i screwed up the install of the AFPR and the diaphragm, i mean hell all ya do is drop that thing in and line up the holes right, and the spacer (or in my case a dime cause i lost the shim) goes on the spring, and you just twist the screw to increase pressure, so that question still remains what the hell is going on. It cant be the timing if i pulled the # 1 plug and brought it up to the compression stroke so **** **** **** i say, any other ideas guys ?

 

oh yea i did recheck the firing order three times, and i also tried turning the distributer while cranking still no luck......

 

Did you check your ECM ? Can you pull any codes ? If you messed with the EPROM at all and it's not seated or damaged in anyway the car wont start. How about the VATS system ? Get a noid light and hook it up to one of the injector wires to see if the injectors are firing....

 

i think he said he was pulling out 12's. 12 is all systems go. thats all i really know about this, just figured i'd clear that up. good luck bro

 

Did you pull the distributor out when you reset the timing at TDC? If you did, I'm betting you put the distributor in 180 out when you put it back together. Meaning that you were actually on #1 TDC on exhaust, not compression.

If you feel that your injectors aren't firing, pull one of the injector connectors off and put a 12 volt test light across the terminals and have someone crank the engine while you watch the light. If the light blinks on and off, then that injector is firing, do this with each and every injector. If they all check good then you are not getting spark, or not enough spark to support combustion anyway.

 

ill try the test light today and see what results i yeild, im almost positive the timing is right on, i floowed this proceedure, pulled the #1 plug turned the engine over with the starter until the pressure blew out the finger, i went slightly over so i pulled it back to 0 by hand, reseated the distributer and checked the rotor button it was facing EXACTLY to # 1 tower, Well anyway thanks so much for the reply's, ill keep you al posted THANKS !!

 

Ok so i tested the injector wires with a node light, all functioned propperly, so that means there is fuel getting into the cylinders, my next step is probbably to replace the new spark plug wires i bought a month ago, i feel they may be the weak link, but the ECU responds, and the injectors work, soooooooo im still stumped about this, any other ideas guys/girls ? I know it matters which injctor goes on which plug, is there any way to test if the plugs are maybe switched around, for instance maybe cyl 1 electrical connector is on cyl 2 injector and vice versa that type of stuff...... can that be tested well anyway thanks.

 

well i got a new cap and rotor and some new accel wires today, im going to try and see if this helps, ill kepp you all posted, if you have ANY other ideas please let me know Thanks

 

look at fuse for ecm buy the battery,and check wires that go into coil

 

Ok so fast forward to today, i replaced the wires, cap, and rotor button, i tested the injectors to the firing order and all was good. However i tested the spark comming from the coil and it was bright blue, however, it was really weak at the plugs, is the coil bad or is the distributer the problem, remember it has a new ignition mod, cap, rotor button, wires and plugs, which are gapped at .40ths

 

motor is fairly new....did you check compression? I just got my motor in and tried to fire itonly to hear air going out instead of in. (last time i trust friends putting a short block together). My compression came to ZERO. just because it ran a few wees ago does't mean you're set. it may hav low compression, low enough to not support running. I would check that and then if that's not it try a little less gap like .035 if you're still not firing have gm check the ecu.