This mechanic took off my carb intake and all the vacume lines to fix a intake leak and must have put all the vacume line on wrong now my secondarys wont open at all!!!!
he tryed adjusting the carb thinking thats the problem and messed up all my tuneing!!! can some please help me! and tell me were what vacume line goes were and how much i should turn my idle mixture screws? please help!!!
i got a holley 750 douple pumper.

 

k i made this lil diagram so u guys would have a clear pic of what lines i am talking about. could u please tell me what vacume line comming from were goes into were. anyone please.

 

Vacuum lines and double pumper secondaries not opening don't have anything to do with each other unless a hose is interferring with the secondary mechanism.

That's a vacuum secondary you have pictured there, by the way.

Port on the intake manifold goes to the power brake booster. Fitting on the back of the carb goes to the PCV valve. Fitting on the side is the ported vacuum for the distributor vacuum advance. Fitting under the front is for the charcoal vapor canister, or blocked off if you aren't using the charcoal canister. The canister should also be Tee'd into the PCV line with the larger of the canister hoses.

 

crap sorry i mean vacume secondarys

 

oh man thanks so much if the info u gave was for the vacume sc carb then i got them hooked up wrong .
charcoal vapor canister>i am new at this were and what does it look like.
again thanks alot!:hail: lol
oh also do the vacume lines control the secondary only??

 

None of the lines control the vacuum secondary. Also, how are you checking the operation of the vacuum secondaries? They should never open just revving the engine. Only under load (WOT while moving).

 

i no they dont open when just reving it i did that paper clip thing that the holley site says to do, pluse i cant hear them opening, and i must have lost like more then half my power. my car wont even smoke off the line anymore and i got a 350 with a cam, full rollers, holley contender intake, headers, true dual exhaust, and th 350 tranny with a shift> its like i got a diffrent car or something.
so what contrals the secondarys?

 

They are only used 'as needed'. You have to have enough flow through the carb to overcome the secondary spring. Off the line they won't open. You should easily be able to burn up the tires on just the primaries. If you are worried about the secondaries, check the secondary diaphram and install the lightest spring(yellow I think) and see what happens. Double check your float levels. Fuel filter. Check over the ignition system. Get the timing set perfect. Or take it back to the shop.

 

alright well today i went by the guys who rebuilt my carb he said my timeing was way off, and he checked out the vacuum plunger thing it was perfect he then put a lighter spring in, it was silver>chrome colour. also he put this screw in so the secondary would be pulled open mechanicaly, he said i would have to adjust it though to make it open at the right time. anyway i never playing with that i am gunna wate till i get the timeing checked out and relocate the cable. but him just putting that spring in made a diffrence.
anyway i replaced the fuel filter about a week ago, so that is good. i am gunna get the timeing fixed tomorrow first thing.
the dude was also telling me that i should put the distributer vacume hose in the fitting at the front of the carb. so do i just cover the one at the side? or should i even do this?
i am for real though my tire will not smoke off the line i am hopeing that it is the timeing, could it be anything else???

 

Silver is the medium(usually stock) spring. Yellow is the lightest. Hook the vacuum advance line to the side of the carb(ported vacuum that only has vacuum when the throttle is open part way), not at any other vacuum port(vacuum all the time). Both ports don't have vacuum at WOT.

 

well i got the timeing checked out and it was way off so i got that fixed but the mechanic thinks something is wrong with the distributor so he is gunna take it off and check it out monday. if there is something wrong with it would it cause this problem? also i just got the spring kit so i am gunna intall the one with the yellow markeing since that would be the lighest. but fixing the timeing did help power but no smoke show off the line. i am going crazy with this
could it be one of my cats are cloged? or both....is there a way i could check with out haveing to cut them off?? what else can i do??

 

Take the screw out of the secondary mechanism. It does't belong there and will only cause problems. Adjust the secondary opening by spring changes.

Timing would certainly affect power.

 

ya i did take out that screw. i am going so crazy with this! i got the timeing perfect but still no power. could the distrubutor/rotor/coil cause this huge power loss????????
what else can it be????????

 

k well just a update i had the cats checked today>well not taken off and checked, but the dude hit them, and he listened to the revs and exhaust sound and said they sounds perfect. i am still debateing if i should get them cut off and checked out>what u guys think?
also i checked out my distrubutor and its working fine.
and i changed the spring to my carb to the yellow one>it did make a diffrence.>stupid lil kit full of springs cost me 30$$

the mechanic took my car for a spin, the first thing he said was it has no power. then after he checked everything and tested her again he says he knows my problem, its my kick down wire.
see i have not had it hooked up since i got the car, its to short to reach the carb and its all burnt up from leaning on my header.
he says hes sure this is the problem.
anyway what do u guys think i should do next???is it possible this kick down wire thing is screwing me up??

 

oh and another issue i got is with this vacume advance line, the carb people and my mechanic tell me it should go in the front port no the side. mechanic said because he cant feel any vacume in the side port just the front. i told him that people say use the side, but he thinks hes right. k so on with the problem that i think might have something to do with this line
k in park the mechanic goes and adjust the mixture screws and gets them right then as soon as put it in gear she idles below 500 and bogs down and stalls. he played with them some more and says its fine now. but now when i am driveing when i come to a stop and i sit there for a bit she stalls out on me (rpms go down slow and stalls out). when she is in gear the RPMs are bounceing from 500 to 700 and when i put her in park the RPMs jump to 1000 or a bit over. it this because those lines being mixed up? should i put back that line in the side of the carb and cover the front?? by doing that will i need to adjust the timeing again?? sry for dumping so much problems on u guys but all these mechanics out here play the guessing game to much.

 

Try a different shop. The 'side' vacuum port doesn't have vacuum at idle, only part throttle. Seriously, find a guy that knows 'old school' carbs and timing. Such a person could probably set the timing by ear and adjust the carb in a few minutes and have it running good. Asking all these questions and doing it yourself is one thing, but you are asking a lot of basic questions AND having a mechanic work on it .

 

ya that was the plan for today since its my day off. but trust me there is not many out here lol.

 

well i took your advise i found a perfect guy to work on my car he use to race in nascar he had built like 3 nascars he even showed me a pic of him and his car in a old news paper on the wall. also he built up his pick up> something like a 386 stroker or something like that, anyway point being he knows these car and engines so i am happy. fist thing he noticed was an exhaust leak in both header gaskets that i though were just loose bolts and that i fixed and he said he thinks there more. then he took it for a spin, did a burn out and told me to get in. he said something like about its just i got no back pressure and thats killing me also timeing and tuneing is off. he did a bit of adjustments quick so the car would run better for now until tomorrow when i take it to him and my *** it made a diffrence but shes still missing alot. i even raced an iroc from a roll and beat him with the car running how it is. anyway he says he is gunna have it running perfect by the end of tomorrow>i cant wate lol! oh and i got one of my guestiong answered thats been bugging me, i do have full rollers!! so i will let u know how everything went. thanks

 

HEY!!! I have the same prob man!! lol I thought I was the only one! My header's bbqued my kickdown cable also. So man what are you plannin on doing about that??? I talked to a friend he is a tranny mechanic he said I should just go to a store he recommended and said I should be able to get a new one for 15$ well anyways why did I have that problem also I mean after fixing my tranny I noticed why the kickdown cable wasnt even connected in the first place cuz the damn thing doesnt reach!
Uhm do you think its possible for me to replace it myself??