Continued from this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=201208

Here are some more updates.
Hey spooled, about time for that wastegate tubing.

 

How big is that throttle body? and did you build the manifold to TB adapter?
Guido, do you have any idea what cfm your 90mm tb would flow. Im going to run a mustang style tb but I will be na for about 6months and don't want to buy a tb that will be too small when I'm boosted. how did you car run with the 90mm and no boost?


Zac

 

nice.

Is this gona be intercooled?

 

I never ran mine without the turbo on it so I cant tell you.

This one, is a 75mm from what I can gather. I didnt build the elbow. He dropped the car off with it already hooked up.

It will be intercooled. There is a LARGE intercooler already under the front bumper.

 

Looking good, it's coming along nicely...

 

its gotta suck to work on that

 

everything gonna be mig welded?

 

I think he's using TIG, but I'm not sure...

I have a MIG at home, but boy would I like to get my hands on a TIG. Maybe I could get some decent looking welds then, lol. My welds hold, but they're not pretty since I don't do much welding...

 

im using a 110v MIG to tack them together, but have a 220v Miller to finish TIG welding them.

 

Guido, Which Miller Tig do you have and how do you like it? Have been thinking about buying one myself.

 

I've been thinking about these 2:

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_200/

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=2513

*drool

 

Its older than I am. LOL Its been through three racer's hands and I bought it from my cage builder. I like it. Its a TIG, what ISNT there to like about it? lol

 

Finished up the crossover.

 

wow that looks like its really cuttin it close there. nice job by the way.

 

about how much are we talking to make that setup. if i went with that exact setup, how much would i be looking to spend Guido?

 

Well, I would have to either have your car, or talk this gentleman into letting me keep his car to build another set.

 

how much are you charging him, if you don't mind me asking? it's not something that will happen tomorrow or anything, but i am trying to keep my options open (that is as long as it is forced induction!)

 

Guido,

What would we be talking $$ wise.. I was at the machine shop today getting info and prices on getting bilet main caps and aline honing my 400 etc. and Need to make up my mind on stayin NA or going turbo.

I havent heard back from the guy wiht the turbo I had lined up so Im turning elsewere to look or I may just go N/A this time around and Turbo next season.

time to make up my damm mind befor snow falls.

 

If you guys want prices, email me. Im not going to post it on the board right now. I dont want to sound like a solicitor right now. LOL people will complain Im not paying for advertising.

 

double I should have know that..
but it dirk woul dever answer my e-mails I might have a link uptop for All the coatings I do.

 

guido, you have an email...

 

If anybody needs a cheap turbo to add a single to a 350/383 I have a rebuilt on for sale.
mhaskell@juno.com

 

Hey guido, I know that you ran your turbo positioned like that, and so did preston… I’m assuming that both of you left the alternator there… did either of you have any alternator problems as a result? They tend to be heat sensitive and I would think… OTOH, I don’t know of either of you really put enough miles on your cars like that to really know…

Zac, assuming the same engine, If a TB is big enough NA it’s big enough turbocharged and vice versa…

 

My alternator was mounted opposite the turbo. It didnt get hot.

Smitty on the other hand, Im not sure. I havent had enough conversation with him to ask questions like that so I cant really say.

 

"Guido Headers"

Figured I would post up another set of headers made by Guido. I am sure most of you have seen them before but some of you may not have. Anyways here they are.

 

Just so you guys dont think Ive been slacking, here is an update

 

lookin good

 

Finished the passenger side header tonight.

 

Guido , verry Nice.

May I ask why you coat em with?

 

Couldn't you just bend up those pipes instead of welding them in so many sections?

 

Feel free to contribute to the 'buy curt a mandrel tubing bender fund'

only $649,876 to go.

 

LOL Thanks.

Ed is right. To purchase a bender is VERY expensive and besides, the only ones Ive seen that are AFFORDABLE, couldnt get the tight radiuses required to make the headers.

Chris, the coating is just high temp header paint. LOL Since the headers were steel, they were starting to get a hint of surface rust around the welds. I cleaned it up and sprayed em with a coat to avoid a breakdown. LOL

 

Well curt is all goes as planed , I'll add to your mandrel tubing bender fund.

Those look great. Cant wait to see pic's of it done.

 

yeah makes me feel like goin out and firing up the mig welder and making some turbo headers, i wish but id do it with the tig like you are, very nice job. one thing i would do though is grind down the welds or just take the tig torch and go over the welds and try and smooth them down a bit or use less filla-rod or a bit more heat next time. just a few tips.

 

Heh, I noticed this with the set that you made for your own car also… you appear to have a bead running around the port on the gasket face of the header flange, I would imagine that that would make sealing difficult. Do you grind that flat before using them? What gaskets are you using?

 

Im going to ground these down a little, but still leave a bit of a raised surface for the gasket to seat on.

Im not sure what header gaskets we are going to use yet.

 

I dont know if the tubing is made of crap steel or if its dirty or what, but I cant get a good weld by just pooling the steel. Ive tried and it spits and sputters at me. If I start a good puddle and push it, I can get a decent looking bead all the way around each seam.

I guess another one of those things I chalk up to learning eh?

 

Guido, it sounds similar to what I went through welding the SSM subframe connectors to the rocker panels. The seam sealer would boil out of the puddle, if you didn't push the puddle forwards to burn it out first... How did you prep the steel? If its been sitting under a workbench, getting covered in grease and oil, there's a good chance that contaminated it, where pushing the puddle lets it burn off (most of it) before the puddle gets there. In any case, it's better to start with clean material. Hit the ends and insides with some alcohol, or atleast brake cleaner to get the major junk off, and if it's been rusted, use a sandpaper or wire flapper wheel to get down to bright metal. Also, try to get the fit as tight as possible, without having gaps that need extra weld to close them up (not that that would affect the sputtering). Prep goes a long way.

 

I learned a lot of that the first two sets andris. There were a few seams that werent TOTALLY flush but managable. For the most part they were clean. I used a bench grinder to bevel each seam, and also used a wire wheel on the other side of the grinder to clean up the exterior and sprayed each piece down with a de-greaser compound I had and wiped it dry.

Who knows. There was a LOT of grease inside and out of the tubing when I got them. Maybe I didnt get it all off??? *shrug* I dont know. The puddle seemed to cover most of the stuff with minimal sputtering. It turned out alright.

 

I cant get over the fact of how much those headers resemble the mid 80's to 90's shorty chevy pickup truck headers. I dont mean the quality I just mean where the outlet ends up.

Guido, I mean if you got some of these headers and put them on a car and just started building us a Y-pipe and down pipe, and told us what header we had to use with it I would be sold.

 

Another discussion that we’ve had before… but since there were fairly good pics from both sides I decided to play a little game… I took the pic of the passenger side header that curt made (from the flange side) and then the driver’s side header from the truck headers (which will get flipped around and used on the passenger side the way you’re talking about) taken from the header side (from the header side so I had to use a mirror image), resized the truck header, cut it out and made sections of it transparent so you can see curt’s under it and laid it on top, lined up the bolt holes and this is what I got:

 

Now if you look at your f-body you’ll see that that puts the header going squarely THROUGH the engine mount and K-member. If you do the same for the driver’s side you’ll see that you not only do that but also get the PS pump and the steering rack.

 

natch!

If it were that simple Tom, Id have done it already.

I actually bought a set of shorty headers once thinking I could do it. Couldnt, and sold em in favor of building them from scratch.

 

same here... I've tried a number of different headers and manifolds to see where they end up.

I think I was the first one to bring up that the S10 truck V8 swap headers would fit flipped upside down with pipes putting the turbos in the battery boxes, but it's an ugly setup. I think jester ended up doing it, but I don't know what ever happened with the car. Block huggers and ‘vette headers will fit installed upside down also, but would require some really creative work with the collectors and flanges and would place the turbos right on the valve covers requiring you to remove the turbos/exhaust to pull the valve covers, intake… and probably screw up the paint on the hood. Mounting turbos that high and back in an f-body will also require small turbos to clear the hood and will cause issues with the brakes and AC/heater box (converting to manual brakes and dumping the heater box or a custom made one will get around that).

Man, we would save a lot of time if people just read the archives. I know that I posted pictures of all this bolted together way back when...

 

You know, someone could make a slick twin kit the way they do on the LT1 cars by putting the turbo down and next to the engine around where the stock exhaust manifold collectors would go. It would be small turbos like you said Mark, but its possible.

 

I didnt think it was an original thought. I just didnt realize that it would hit the X member. Not meant as an attack on your mad skilz either. I was just adding my $.02 but it came out as a wooden nickel.

 

I've only seen only one 4th gen done like that and to be honest, I was very disappointed how quickly it turned in to a $$$ project (basically replacing the K-member and everything around it to try to make room) and even then the packaging wasn’t great (the inlets for the turbos were almost right against the back of the K-member…).

I own both 3rd and 4th gen f-bodies, and things are MUCH tighter in that area on 3rd gens and I can’t imagine what would fit down there… If you did it I don’t know how you could without turning the turbos into the lowest point on the car.

 

The Dynasty 200 SD is the **** in inverter TIG's. Real nice welds and real easy to use. It is a little overkill for someone starting to learn TIG, but later on you will be greatful for the additional feature like pulse and freq control

 

List Price
Starting at:
$ 2,680.00 (US $)

HOLY ShEit Batman!!! I spent that much on a lot of things but not for 1 damn set of header's without the material or gas. I dont even like welding all that much.

Who here knows how and wants to be paid to finish my headers TIG style after I get them tacked.<that IS a serious question buy the way!

 

Look'n Good Guido!! The only other single crossover setup I've seen has the crossover pipe go over the top of the engine. Some pretty crazy plumbing there! GJ!

For you guys lookn to buy a welder, Home Depot has a deal on a Lincoln MIG with TIG attachment for $455 right now.