part 1 https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=back+halfed

part 2 https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=back+halfed


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N E Ways I have had concerns about my car being more than one piece. I have done more than enough work that is all one piece now but I never was sure. Actually it went back n fourth for a while.

But after taking some air craft stripper the my right rear I found more evidence. It also explains why I get these little cracks by the window. I thought the left had been fixed.

Look like a brass weld as its easier to build up n sand down.

 

But I must say it was done well. The only skimped in the wheel wells and why I was never 100% sure. That brass weld / seam is flawless.

Also I have found out many times so far that once stripped down; I find more rust under "good paint" than rust I find sticking out of the paint. Its runs like a root system of a plant under the primer. And then find weak spots to build n grow out.

But man its so fricking neat kind of how its so alive. It looked like a strawberry patch runner root system. It looked really neat. kind of.

My motorcycle tank was the same. It had two small spots visible but once stripped to bare metal I found tons more under good paint.

Gotta go to bare metal to get all the rust. with air craft stripper from autozone it so fricking easy and it goes a long way. The paint just jumps off in 30-45 sec. Id goto bare metal for even a spray can job. Least you know the rust is gone for sure.

 

Yanno, it's really funny that you post a picture of that right now... I'm doing prep work on my gf's firebird, and just two days ago I ran into that SAME weld line..... but I don't recall ever seeing it on my camaro. Regardless.. I'm pretty sure it's a factory seam... I'm just not sure why.

 

That is why I can never decide. there is not enough bad spots or weld lines to say its been a chop job but there is enough evidence to suggest so.

I don't like them stress cracks though. I wonder what could stop that short of a full cage.

 

Wow, almost forgot my password.

Anyway, yep, that's a factory weld/braze. That's where the T-tops went.

If you hit what looks like a gray bondo up there, stop and put a dust mask on- it's lead.

Supposedly sub frame connectors will stop the roofrail cracks; they're from the body twist.