stock suspension downfalls?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: Tigard, Oregon
Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
stock suspension downfalls?
I know that our cars had great suspension from the factory (or atleast the IROCs), and even got a little over 1.00 on the skidpad. Granted, the 20 year old suspension needs freshening up now, it doesnt seem like it's THAT great handling.
I encountered body roll a LOT, and noticed the body flex a LOT when my car still ran.
What (in order preferrably) needs to be replaced in these cars?
I am fairly sure I want to get a pro-kit, and bilstein (sp?) struts for it. Would this limit body roll around the corners?
I'm guessing that SFCs will cure the body flex.
I have seen a lot of good suspension products on Spohn's website. And I plan to go w/ as many as I can, but have read skechy things about the transmission crossmember from him... what would be a better direct fit tranny crossmember?
Thanks in advanced
I encountered body roll a LOT, and noticed the body flex a LOT when my car still ran.
What (in order preferrably) needs to be replaced in these cars?
I am fairly sure I want to get a pro-kit, and bilstein (sp?) struts for it. Would this limit body roll around the corners?
I'm guessing that SFCs will cure the body flex.
I have seen a lot of good suspension products on Spohn's website. And I plan to go w/ as many as I can, but have read skechy things about the transmission crossmember from him... what would be a better direct fit tranny crossmember?
Thanks in advanced
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 2
From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Do SFCs first. I have my Spohn ones sitting in my garage waiting to be welded in still. Then get a "Wonderbar" steering brace from Top Down Solutions.
Then do shocks/struts/springs as well as swaybars. I don't remember which you're supposed to tune with first or what-not for auto-x, but for a street car, the 36/24 or 34/23 combos seem pretty popular with Eibach Pro Kit and Bilstein HD shocks/struts.
Upgrade all bushings to poly or whatever the other one is called. Poly swaybar endlinks make a HUGE difference, and the swaybar mounts themselves make a HUGE difference. I couldn't imagine the feeling if I had done both the endlinks and mounts at the same time. I upgraded the endlinks first, and then the rear mounts. Still need to buy mounts for the front 36mm bar. Can't find those in any parts stores.
Once lowered, you'll also want an adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms (even without lowering, you want these), and lower control arm relocation brackets to correct the geometry of the LCAs after lowering the car.
At some point, you can pick up a strut tower brace. The 3-point ones are the best as they triangulate the engine bay, but my 2-point seems to work okay.
Tubular A-arms can't hurt either, but I don't know if there's a huge benefit (for street driving) if you don't buy the coilover kit as well. For auto-x use, the tubular ones are good to get either way.
My setup:
DropZone lowering springs
Bilstein HD rear shocks
Koni Red adjustable front struts
36/24mm swaybars (WS6 package) with poly endlinks and mounts
TDS Wonderbar
Jamex STB
245/45R17 Eagle F1 GS EMT tires on 17x8.5 in front
275/40R18 Eagle F1 GS EMT tires on 18x9.5 in rear
Waiting to be installed:
Tubular LCAs (look like spohn, but I don't think they are)
Spohn SFCs
Need to buy:
More poly bushings
Adjustable panhard rod
LCA relocation brackets
As it is right now, it handles great, but I can't wait to get the SFCs in for the rigidity and the LCAs and adjustable panhard rod installed for even more traction. As it is right now, I'm getting wheelhop...first time I've ever experienced it with my new tires/rims and the lowering springs/Bilstein HDs in back..
Then do shocks/struts/springs as well as swaybars. I don't remember which you're supposed to tune with first or what-not for auto-x, but for a street car, the 36/24 or 34/23 combos seem pretty popular with Eibach Pro Kit and Bilstein HD shocks/struts.
Upgrade all bushings to poly or whatever the other one is called. Poly swaybar endlinks make a HUGE difference, and the swaybar mounts themselves make a HUGE difference. I couldn't imagine the feeling if I had done both the endlinks and mounts at the same time. I upgraded the endlinks first, and then the rear mounts. Still need to buy mounts for the front 36mm bar. Can't find those in any parts stores.
Once lowered, you'll also want an adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms (even without lowering, you want these), and lower control arm relocation brackets to correct the geometry of the LCAs after lowering the car.
At some point, you can pick up a strut tower brace. The 3-point ones are the best as they triangulate the engine bay, but my 2-point seems to work okay.
Tubular A-arms can't hurt either, but I don't know if there's a huge benefit (for street driving) if you don't buy the coilover kit as well. For auto-x use, the tubular ones are good to get either way.
My setup:
DropZone lowering springs
Bilstein HD rear shocks
Koni Red adjustable front struts
36/24mm swaybars (WS6 package) with poly endlinks and mounts
TDS Wonderbar
Jamex STB
245/45R17 Eagle F1 GS EMT tires on 17x8.5 in front
275/40R18 Eagle F1 GS EMT tires on 18x9.5 in rear
Waiting to be installed:
Tubular LCAs (look like spohn, but I don't think they are)
Spohn SFCs
Need to buy:
More poly bushings
Adjustable panhard rod
LCA relocation brackets
As it is right now, it handles great, but I can't wait to get the SFCs in for the rigidity and the LCAs and adjustable panhard rod installed for even more traction. As it is right now, I'm getting wheelhop...first time I've ever experienced it with my new tires/rims and the lowering springs/Bilstein HDs in back..
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 2
From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Not at all, just reduces body roll. There was a post with someone asking what a swaybar does a few weeks ago. We posted some really good info on it. Its there to reduce body roll.
The only downside to a larger swaybar with stiffer mounts is that it reduces the "independent-ness" of the front suspension because it links both sides together. Improves handling though. Then there's the problem if you are too stiff in the front or rear (or too loose on one compared to the other), you induce understeer or oversteer too easily. Depends on driver. I'm pretty happy with my combo though. Could possibly be a bit better, but I don't have my front lowering springs in yet, so its really hard to tell what the problem is (that and having stock front swaybar mounts is probably my problem!)
I've driven without a front swaybar for a few days, and its not that bad around town. On the highway, changing lanes quickly, is scary as hell though
It did improve the ride quality though. Not that I would trade ride quality for handling though.
I told my dad the other day "I can't wait til I get my new front springs in, then it'll be even stiffer" and his response was "Why do you want such a stiff ride?" Figures, he drives an '00 Lexus ES300. The man used to own a '76 TA back in the day..
The only downside to a larger swaybar with stiffer mounts is that it reduces the "independent-ness" of the front suspension because it links both sides together. Improves handling though. Then there's the problem if you are too stiff in the front or rear (or too loose on one compared to the other), you induce understeer or oversteer too easily. Depends on driver. I'm pretty happy with my combo though. Could possibly be a bit better, but I don't have my front lowering springs in yet, so its really hard to tell what the problem is (that and having stock front swaybar mounts is probably my problem!)
I've driven without a front swaybar for a few days, and its not that bad around town. On the highway, changing lanes quickly, is scary as hell though
It did improve the ride quality though. Not that I would trade ride quality for handling though.I told my dad the other day "I can't wait til I get my new front springs in, then it'll be even stiffer" and his response was "Why do you want such a stiff ride?" Figures, he drives an '00 Lexus ES300. The man used to own a '76 TA back in the day..
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,779
Likes: 2
From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
man i caught the polyurethane bug the other day installing front swaybar endlinks...
...can't wait to poly up the rest of the car...
Brandon
...can't wait to poly up the rest of the car...
Brandon
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