spills

iTrader: (9)

summit part#: 10105832

I bought this flywheel, and Im already having some doubds about its fitment. First, some people are tellin me that since its 168 tooth, it wont fit in my T5 bellhousing. Im still a couple of weeks till I get the motor in the car, so I cant tell just yet.

Another thing is finding the right clutch to fit it. I got it from summit, and under suggested parts all it lists is flywheel bolts. It says that it can take a 12" clutch disc, which would be a little on the hefty side for me. I was gonna reuse my stock clutch kit for now, but the pressure plate mounting holes dont line up with the new flywheel! The new flywheel doesnt look that mugh bigger than the stocker. Can anyone suggest a clutch kit that would fit this?

todd200

It won't fit in a T-5 bellhousing. I think you need this part number NAL-14088646.

spills

iTrader: (9)

How much does it hit the bellhousing? I mean Is there any way I can get it to fit? McLeod bellhousing work? I just dont wanna replace it unless I have to, mainly because I had it balanced with my rotating assembly and Ive never heard of it not fitting in the stock bellhousing until AFTER I had it balanced.

EDIT: I do still have the stock flywheel somewhere. Is there anyway the machine shop can balanced out my new flywheel with whatever the specs for the new one are? Or should I just bolt it on and say the hell with it? They did take out about 3-4 holes, appx. 1/2" deep, and just barrrely brazed the balancer. I just dont wanna tear down the whole damn motor because of a wrong flywheel choice.

todd200

I'm not positive, but I think you will have to have it re-balanced. If you do have to have it balanced again, have them balance only the crank,rods,pistons this time, then use the flywheel I showed you and a neutral balanced (internal) balancer.

It sounds like the way your motor is balanced right now, if you ever had to replace the flywheel or balancer in the future you would have to tear the motor down and have it all balanced again instead of just being able to replace the broke/damaged balancer or flywheel.

This is from another thread. five7kid said this.

There are some generalizations there that need to be clarified.

One-piece rear main seal cranks do not use a neutrally balanced flexplate. However, it is still different than the 400's "external balance" flexplate, and the 305/350's with one-piece rear main seals are still considered "internally" balanced - the damper on the front of the engine is still neutrally balanced.

As for 400's being externally balanced, that isn't always true, either. There are aftermarketers that are making internally-balanced 3.75" stroke cranks for 383's, especially one-piece rear main type cranks. So, you really need to understand what they are selling you.

When the rotating assembly is balanced, the flexplate and damper may be installed, but they should not be modified as part of the balancing process. Their "balance" should be standardized, and if not modified, they can be replaced later if necessary without having to rebalance the entire rotating assembly. If they are modified in order to achieve rotating assembly balance, then the entire assembly will have to be rebalanced if they need to be replaced.


It sounds like they did modify your flywheel and balancer. I would find out exactly what they did before doing anything else. Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in and help clarify what needs to be done.

No, the 168 tooth is bigger than the bellhousing. I don't know if the McLeod would work.

spills

iTrader: (9)

well damn. I guess Ill call the machine shop tomorrow and see what he says. If anyone has some additional info they would like to add mefore I tear down my whole damn long block, PLEASE come forward and stop me from doing so!!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The starter will not fit into the bellhousing but the flywheel might. And even then, no guarantee on the pressure plate clearing. The only chance I can see of this situation working out for you is if the clutch & flywheel fit inside the bell, then find a cone-less starter (no cone around the starter gear as it pops out) like a C4 corvette has but for a 168 wheel.

Given that you don't even own a clutch for it yet, I wouldn't go that route. I'd go with the 153. Less rotating mass.