I was changing my plugs and using a ratchet from underneath near the starter and I had forgotten to disconnect the battery and ZAP, sparks. I finished the job and the car runs great buy im getting an error code. Its code 53, overvoltage.

I got the code again tonight. Its the same one. I let it just run for a while in the drive way and I noticed that the voltage on the dash dial would jump up to about 17 and the lights would get brighter, then after a while it would go down to the middle (14 or so i think) and the lights would get dimmer (normal). This doesn't seem good. Im thinking I must of fried something, possible the voltage regulator, although I don't know enough about the electrical to tell. PLEASE HELP. Im actually thinking about having to take it to a mechanic (read $$$$$). How can I test the voltage regualtor? What else might it be, generator or alternator? I could certainly change these with my handy shop manual, but how can I tell what it is?

Thanks

 

I had a problem like this awhile back. V gauge was constantly pegged at 18. Took the alternator to Vato Zone and had it tested, turns out the Voltage Regulator was hosed. Got the cheapo w/good warranty and it has been fine every since.

Taking the Alternator out is pretty straight forward, I would pull it and have it tested first.

 

Hold on a second there bro. After changing the batter and alternator after having this same problem, i found that a fusable link had gone bad about a foot away from the starter motor connection. It does't look burnt from the outside but that was my problem. If your voltage 'bounces' and isn't 'pegged' all the way...then I'd suspect a fusable link 100%.

S

 

Thats what its doing, it goes up, then down and back and forth for no apparent reason. So I just trace the wires from the starter back up and look for this fuse? The short with the ratchet happend right on the starter. Man I hope thats what it is. Thanks for the tip, Im going to check it tonight.

Larry

 

Larry,

So, you got the code again...

Steve has a great idea about your problem. The two blue wires are the fusible links. The comprise about the first six inches of wire from the starter solenoid back to the harness. You can give the wires a gentle tug along their length to see if they have broken/burned inside the insulation. You can meter the wires while moving them to see if it interrupts the circuit.

If you find a failed link, you can replace that secion of wire with AWG 16 wire (essentially the size of your link now). Typically, a fusible link is a section that is two or three wire gauges smaller than the circuit wire, and those circuits should be either AWG 10 or AWG 8. A short section of 16 should be fine. The factory diagrams show a 1.0mm wire for the fusible links, and the closest AWG size to that is 18 gauge. Since you should use stranded wire instead of solid for this application, AWG 16 would be safe as well.

 

So you are saying that the first 6" or so of the wire from the solenoid back to the harness are two wires and that is the fusible link? I would replace both of these wires with AWG 16 wires.. I thought the fusible link was actually like a fuse or something. Steve said the his fusible link didn't look burnt from the outside, I guess you cant tell by just looking at the wire eh? One thing I don't understand, if this wire was burnt, how is the car starting? I guess you are thinking that is is partially burnt, which causes the amps to be high when I start it and the voltage regulator then interprets this as the battery needing to be charged?? Well its certainly worth a try before pulling the alternator and voltage regulator for a trip to Auto Zone.

Thanks, will keep you informed.
Larry

 

The fusible link is actually a section of smaller wire encased in fire resistant insulation. Too high a draw and it toasts the link instead of the harness. Vader's solution will work, but keep in mind normal wire doesnt have the fire resistant insulation. An actual fusible link shouldnt cost more than a few dollars at any parts house.

 

Well check the fusible link first, like the the all mighty said himself (that is Vader if you dont already know). I didnt even think of that. But I have spiked a bunch of wires (one being the battery to starter wire) and I have not burnt one yet. But its a good place to start. You will learn more about your car in the process.

Fusible links are a PITA, but that is how GM wanted it to be.

If all checks out, then I would recommend an alternator test, which the V regulator is built in to.

 

I got under the car tonight and looked for the fusible link, but Im not sure what it is. Coming off the solenoid Ive got wires on two terminals, the big one in the middle and a smaller one up above. The smaller one has what looks like a blue wire about 6" long going into the wiring harness then. The big one has the big wire from the battery of course, then two groups of small ones, all orange or red. There is a metal connector on one wire, and two wires into the other metal connector, they both go over the big terminal on the solonoid. Each of the three orange/red wires has a cylindrical black plastic piece about 4" from the end. ONe of the these wires has two wires exiting the cylindrical black plastic piece, the other two have only one, so 4 wires now enter the wiring harness. OK, in this whole deal what is the fusible link, the black cylindrical plastic pieces? How would I replace one or all, I dont know how far they go up once they enter the bundle. How would I check for continuity, I dont know where each wire goes? Im sorry to be so stupid but this is the first time ive ever done this.

Besides all this, after having these wires off, feeling them, moving them around etc. I put them back on and started the car and it acted completely normal. The voltage gage went up to a little past 13 and basically stayed there. I turned everything on and out would move a hair, then go back to the same spot. I drove around, jumped on it etc, no codes, no high voltage on the voltage guage. HMMM. I still don't understand how if the fusible link was burnt that the car would even start. huh?

thanks all
Larry

 

Ok Larry,

It sounds a little wierd that your car would work fine after all this messing around. Were all of your bolts tightened down properly?

To check for continuity you will need a meter w/a continuity checker, or you can fab one. Please tell me you have a cont. tester. Anyways, put the meter on the cont. checker, find where the wire you are checking two ends are, and simply touch the two ends to the probes of the meter. It should start buzzing, if the wire is good. You could put it on the OHMS scale, at 1k, and if it goes to 0.000 then that means there is a dead short, which means the wire has continuity, and is good. Hope this dosent confuse you.

And the car will start if one these fusible links is bad.

I still think its the Alternator Voltage regulator, but thats me.

Good luck.

 

I have an electrical tester with voltmeter and ohm meter. What I mean is, how do I check a wire by putting a probe at each end when one end is at the soloenoid and the other end is at the alternator? I guess you have to rig up a long probe wire for one probe or something.

The only nut I took off (not including the one on the neg battery terminal) was the one on the end of the big terminal of the solenoid. It wasnt' super tight but it was snug. Its a tight now.

Im still not clear on these points.
1. Is the fusible link the section of wire with the black plastic cylinder on it?
2. How far does the fusible link go up into the wiring bundle? Or do you actually just change the wire back to the Plastic cylinder?

All I did last night was to take off the nut on the big terminal of the solenoid, take off the big wire terminal and the two small wire terminals, move the small wire terminals around by looking at them, feeling them etc, then putting everything back on. I don't understand it either. An alternator/voltage regulator is $134 for lifetime warranty, $57 at auto zone. If I see any further wierdness im going to pull the alternator, have it tested, and get a new on if needed.

Weird

 

I was just talking to a guy here at work who is an ex mechanic. He explained how to check the fusible links by putting on probe on the terminal and poking the other one through the wire covering near where it goes into the bundle. The black plastice cylinders are the fusible link, they even have some numbers on them that indicate the size. But even more interesting, I think we solved the whole problem. He asked me how loose was that nut on the solenoid terminal and I said very loose. He asked if I moved the wires to that terminal around during the plug change and I said yes, I moved them a lot because the big wire was right in the way of the ratchet, I had to be either above or below the big wire with the ratchet. At one point I was even using the big wire with my thumb to pull the ratche with my fingers to loosen the plug. We think I loosend those wires enought to cause a bad contact, so the v regulator was trying to charge the battery up. Last night I put the nut back tight and the bad connection was eliminated. I hope he's right.

Ive certainly learned not to do anything on the motor without disconnecting the battery.

 

i see you have replied in the midst of my reply, glad it all worked out.
jess

Im still not clear on these points.
1. Is the fusible link the section of wire with the black plastic cylinder on it?
the fuesable link is just the black plastic piece. it goes normal wire - fusable link - normal wire - connector.

2. How far does the fusible link go up into the wiring bundle? Or do you actually just change the wire back to the Plastic cylinder?
most all fusable links are within 6 inches of the power source. this provides a burnout spot without melting your entire harness; shorts cause a great amount of heat. if you replace the ones near the starter, they should be the only ones you need to look at.

to test with a multimeter, you would check for ohms across the fusable link. place one end on the starter connecter (battery disconnected) and probe the other end into the wire on the other side of the terminal. if the reading isn't 0, then replace the link. remember, it is possible that you have partially fried a link. this would allow it to have voltage, but the resistance would be higher. the erratic behavior you reported could be from the harness shifting around when you drive, which would cause a short in your connection, or it could be caused by vurrent passing through a damaged link which raises heat and resistance.
the ohm meter check is best, but you could start it and move the harness around with your hand ( don't burn yourself) and have someone watch the gauge for erratic behavior. if you think it might be the altenator, pull it off and take it to be tested; almost everybody tests them for free.

jess

 

Cool, I never said it was the Alternator did I?

Loose wires can be a pain in the neck sometimes.

I'm glad you got it figured out, and Happy Motoring to ya.

 

Thanks, by the way your avatar really cracks me up, a little hyper dude. How do you make those?

 

You go into user setup and theres like a billion of them to choose from. Or you can make your own, some people will even make you one if you ask. I just chose the cracked out little freak.

 

I think i'm having same problem. the fusable link that has the 2 orange wires going into it and one comming out was completely toasted. i have no dash lights no starter..... but i have a few things that still work like headlights and interior lights.... hatch motor...

my question is where do these wires run too? and do i just need to buy a fusable link and cut the old link off and hook the new one up? thanks!

 

Im not sure what fusible link you are talking about. I have a 20a fuse near the battery that is supposed to be for the ECM and mine was good. Maybe on older cars they had a fusible link there. I have seen fusible links in the auto parts store so I bet if you buy one for GM cars and look at it it will be obvious how to change it out. I haven't done this yet so I cant help any further.

good luck

 

Oops. I forgot to put which one The fusible links located by the starter. I checked it out today... one of them was completely toasted. Replaced it... Lowered the car and tried to see if it helped. The door locks worked, then went to start the car and nothing. After that the door locks no longer worked again.... And the fuse was still good....sigh..... i'm about to give in

 

Ahhh fusible links gotta love to hate them. I shorted one out on the firewall once. Killed everything except my taillights. The little plastic thingy is the fusible link on most of the mid 80's cars. There are two of them both are coming off the big wire running to the starter. I think on some older cars there is just a small section, like 1 to 2 inches of smaller wire this is the fusible link on them. Best way to tell if they are blown is to get a test meter and see where you stop getting voltage at. If its on the other side of the fusible links then you have found your problem.