1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
#1
1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
Hey guys first thing I want to say is whats up I just registered here
So I just got my Camaro (1 week ago), it is a 1984 Berlinetta with the V8 305 (Automatic). Seeing as it is a '84 it has the whole digital dash/spaceship design :P. But my dad and I have been playing around with it a lot trying to get the speakers to work. At first all we got for sound was from the right side... we took apart the whole middle area including the shifter area, took the radio out, and the back panel thing that has the cruise control so we could get the the amp. Nothing looked physically wrong so we got some of that electronic spray to clean electronics put it on and let it dry. Put the amp back in and then all the speakers worked.
We went out to get some new speakers to replace the stock ones (All we got were front to test them out) and suddenly the back left stopped. We have taken the amp out about 3 times and played around with it trying to get it to work. There is power coming out of it. Today we tried again and it wouldn't work then suddenly when I smashed my knee on the steering wheel a ton of static came out and like 20 seconds later the speaker worked. Now it stopped (3ish hours later) and now the front left is also making a high pitch sound and sounds bad.
So what could I do, is there a way to fix the amp or should we just go and get a whole new stereo and amp kit (its my birthday in 2 weeks so as long as it wont cost over 1,000 it should be fine).
Thanks in advance - kiLzeD
So I just got my Camaro (1 week ago), it is a 1984 Berlinetta with the V8 305 (Automatic). Seeing as it is a '84 it has the whole digital dash/spaceship design :P. But my dad and I have been playing around with it a lot trying to get the speakers to work. At first all we got for sound was from the right side... we took apart the whole middle area including the shifter area, took the radio out, and the back panel thing that has the cruise control so we could get the the amp. Nothing looked physically wrong so we got some of that electronic spray to clean electronics put it on and let it dry. Put the amp back in and then all the speakers worked.
We went out to get some new speakers to replace the stock ones (All we got were front to test them out) and suddenly the back left stopped. We have taken the amp out about 3 times and played around with it trying to get it to work. There is power coming out of it. Today we tried again and it wouldn't work then suddenly when I smashed my knee on the steering wheel a ton of static came out and like 20 seconds later the speaker worked. Now it stopped (3ish hours later) and now the front left is also making a high pitch sound and sounds bad.
So what could I do, is there a way to fix the amp or should we just go and get a whole new stereo and amp kit (its my birthday in 2 weeks so as long as it wont cost over 1,000 it should be fine).
Thanks in advance - kiLzeD
#2
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Car: 1984 Berlinetta
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
You can get the radio repaired for 200 buck. http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-radio-refurbishment-service-1979-2002.html Or get http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1209990...t.html?tp=2114 get your own radio. I'm have the same prob. Thinking of getting a hidden radio and keep the stock for looks. So where is a pic of it done in someones car.
Last edited by Military Clone; 05-25-2010 at 06:18 PM.
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Car: 1984 Berlinetta
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
After making that post before I decided to explore why my stereo was messed up, too. I opened it up and started looking and found a org wire that is bad. I can move it and the left side started to work. Then moved it again and sound stopped coming from that side. So bro check the wires on the inside.
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Car: 85 berlinetta
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Re: 1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
does any one know how to get the auto reverse function to stop, mine is just clicking back and forth.
#5
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Re: 1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
James,...
I do not know how to properly get the cassette player to stop clicking forward and backward. The only way I can get that to happen is to remove the cassette from the radio.
I'll tell you how get the tape door open, but in your case the tape itself might very well remain stuck inside because the tape mechanism sounds like it's still "engaged" and if so - even with the tape door open - it will be holding the tape "captive".
* It IS possible to release the cassette door by jamming a thin, ridged, "something" into the top/right corner of the tape door and "feel" your way around till you get lucky and find the locking pin. I've done it myself; but I do not recommend doing it.
The RIGHT way to open the cassette door when it will not open by itself is:
Remove the back of the radio, IIRC the screws are 7/32's. I've found it's simpler to remove the neck screws using needle nose pliers because most deep sockets are too "fat" to fit properly. ( the neck screws on 86 radios are TORX screws, MUCH simpler ! )
Use a tool to push down on the piston at the top of tape door motor and the door will pop right open.
AGAIN; If your Tape deck mechanism has the cassette tape itself ENGAGED then the door will unlock and it will only pop open a little bit. It will not open all the way because the tape will still be stuck. If that is the case you might decide to try and rip the tape out,.... and I'm sure you understand that you could damage the tape or the tape deck if you try. (And again,..... I have done I, but don't recommend it !! )
That's the best I can do - Good luck !
I do not know how to properly get the cassette player to stop clicking forward and backward. The only way I can get that to happen is to remove the cassette from the radio.
I'll tell you how get the tape door open, but in your case the tape itself might very well remain stuck inside because the tape mechanism sounds like it's still "engaged" and if so - even with the tape door open - it will be holding the tape "captive".
* It IS possible to release the cassette door by jamming a thin, ridged, "something" into the top/right corner of the tape door and "feel" your way around till you get lucky and find the locking pin. I've done it myself; but I do not recommend doing it.
The RIGHT way to open the cassette door when it will not open by itself is:
Remove the back of the radio, IIRC the screws are 7/32's. I've found it's simpler to remove the neck screws using needle nose pliers because most deep sockets are too "fat" to fit properly. ( the neck screws on 86 radios are TORX screws, MUCH simpler ! )
Use a tool to push down on the piston at the top of tape door motor and the door will pop right open.
AGAIN; If your Tape deck mechanism has the cassette tape itself ENGAGED then the door will unlock and it will only pop open a little bit. It will not open all the way because the tape will still be stuck. If that is the case you might decide to try and rip the tape out,.... and I'm sure you understand that you could damage the tape or the tape deck if you try. (And again,..... I have done I, but don't recommend it !! )
That's the best I can do - Good luck !
Last edited by John in RI; 10-06-2015 at 10:01 PM.
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Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
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Re: 1984 Berlinetta Radio/Amp
I haven't worked on a Berlinetta tape deck but have tinkered a bit with tape deck in general. It's not something I particularly enjoy especially with the newer and better technology available. lol
To add on removing a cassette: If the tape head is still inserted into the cassette you should be able to find the motor and/or gear set for it and rotate it manually to release the cassette. That mostly depends on whether you can access it or not. From what I recall when you push play it initializes a motor that inserts the head into the cassette (pinch rollers are also closed onto the tape itself). The head (and rollers) are released when fast forward, reverse, or stop is pressed. Some units have a fixed head but it sounds like this does not.
The auto reverse is a bit more complicated but I'm thinking that the function is more universal than Berlinetta specific. That said, there may be a few different “universal” ways for the auto reverse to function so take the information below as a general idea on how it works.
1.) It may be as simple as cleaning the rollers and it may even be the specific cassette having more drag than others might have. Ie. A cheap/faulty cassette that locks up and causes the deck to think that the cassette has reached the end.
The best way to clean a car tape deck is with a kit that includes a cleaning cassette and solution. You can clean it manually with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol, however it is not recommended to use rubbing alcohol on rubber components especially when they are older as it typically dries them out even more.
2.) You may have to take it apart and get a feel for how it works and determine what needs to be repaired and/or replaced. The video below shows how the parts are moved manually and via motor action and should help to understand the basics on what to look for.
(Note: These older tape decks typically have belts and rollers that dry out and need to be replaced. They also tend to eat tapes a lot when they malfunction and cassettes aren't as easy and cheap to find any longer. Belts and rollers may be difficult to find but I'm thinking that they should be the same or similar to most other GM tape decks.)
For evaluation and troubleshooting I'm going to refer to information to links simply because they can explain it better than I can.
This should chime in just as he's explaining the reverse and stop mechanisms. (When he starts talking about the battery, skip forward to 10:32.) Also, some things may be different but it should give you a general idea. It's the most relevant I could find off hand.
EDIT: Looks like it eliminated my key in for the video. You can skip to ~6:30, and then to 10:32 when he goes off subject.
Also these are good explanations as well.
“Oh, what is that wear problem called... something like "capstan tension malfunction"... I can't remember. Anyhow, the problem is that the tensioner that drives the tape has weakened, and the amount of drag it sees is now triggering the auto flip feature of the deck. Now, it could also be that the deck is working fine, but your tape has too much drag in it and that is what is triggering the auto flip. Does it do it on all the tapes you have?”
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-p...ing-sides.html
“The common mechanism used by cassette decks to trip the autoreverse is a rotation sensor on the supply or takeup spool. The takeup spool is driven by the deck via a slipping clutch that allows it to NOT turn without damaging the motor, stretching the tape, etc., if the supply is all used up.
If the deck thinks it's moving the tape but one spool or the other isn't turning, it assumes "end of tape" and tries reversing. ”
http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=644615
Now that you have seen and read the above there is also the possibility of removing or altering parts to eliminate the function but I'll leave that up to you. -Hope that helps, and sorry about the length.
To add on removing a cassette: If the tape head is still inserted into the cassette you should be able to find the motor and/or gear set for it and rotate it manually to release the cassette. That mostly depends on whether you can access it or not. From what I recall when you push play it initializes a motor that inserts the head into the cassette (pinch rollers are also closed onto the tape itself). The head (and rollers) are released when fast forward, reverse, or stop is pressed. Some units have a fixed head but it sounds like this does not.
The auto reverse is a bit more complicated but I'm thinking that the function is more universal than Berlinetta specific. That said, there may be a few different “universal” ways for the auto reverse to function so take the information below as a general idea on how it works.
1.) It may be as simple as cleaning the rollers and it may even be the specific cassette having more drag than others might have. Ie. A cheap/faulty cassette that locks up and causes the deck to think that the cassette has reached the end.
The best way to clean a car tape deck is with a kit that includes a cleaning cassette and solution. You can clean it manually with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol, however it is not recommended to use rubbing alcohol on rubber components especially when they are older as it typically dries them out even more.
2.) You may have to take it apart and get a feel for how it works and determine what needs to be repaired and/or replaced. The video below shows how the parts are moved manually and via motor action and should help to understand the basics on what to look for.
(Note: These older tape decks typically have belts and rollers that dry out and need to be replaced. They also tend to eat tapes a lot when they malfunction and cassettes aren't as easy and cheap to find any longer. Belts and rollers may be difficult to find but I'm thinking that they should be the same or similar to most other GM tape decks.)
For evaluation and troubleshooting I'm going to refer to information to links simply because they can explain it better than I can.
This should chime in just as he's explaining the reverse and stop mechanisms. (When he starts talking about the battery, skip forward to 10:32.) Also, some things may be different but it should give you a general idea. It's the most relevant I could find off hand.
EDIT: Looks like it eliminated my key in for the video. You can skip to ~6:30, and then to 10:32 when he goes off subject.
Also these are good explanations as well.
“Oh, what is that wear problem called... something like "capstan tension malfunction"... I can't remember. Anyhow, the problem is that the tensioner that drives the tape has weakened, and the amount of drag it sees is now triggering the auto flip feature of the deck. Now, it could also be that the deck is working fine, but your tape has too much drag in it and that is what is triggering the auto flip. Does it do it on all the tapes you have?”
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-p...ing-sides.html
“The common mechanism used by cassette decks to trip the autoreverse is a rotation sensor on the supply or takeup spool. The takeup spool is driven by the deck via a slipping clutch that allows it to NOT turn without damaging the motor, stretching the tape, etc., if the supply is all used up.
If the deck thinks it's moving the tape but one spool or the other isn't turning, it assumes "end of tape" and tries reversing. ”
http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=644615
Now that you have seen and read the above there is also the possibility of removing or altering parts to eliminate the function but I'll leave that up to you. -Hope that helps, and sorry about the length.
Last edited by Scorpner; 10-07-2015 at 03:23 AM.
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