project89

iTrader: (1)

just asked matt about having the inj and ecm on the same power relay ill see what his reply is

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm just messing with you.

His ECU is probably junk. I would have trashed it a long time ago, but then again I'm picky. (hence why he's getting a set of 8 injectors with 2 hours of run time for $20).

If anyone's looking for manual brakes, I have a garage sale on those too.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

i shoudl have junked the unit when i was making all that good money and just bought a new one , but im finaly starting to get back into good money territory so maybe it wont take long if none of the above suggestions or changes make a difference

depending on the cost i might be in for them

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Disclaimer, car stops like crap.

I absolutely hate the feel of the pedal, and while it doesn't require a lot of effort due to the ratio, I feel like it doesn't grab enough.

I bought a brand new power booster and master, going back to power brakes this weekend. I'm determined to drive this car before it snows.


-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

what do u have for brakes 4 wheel disc ? what size master is it

ive got the front disc's but keeping the rear drums when i swap to the dana 70

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Two masters:

1 1/32 bore strange
24mm
Pedal drilled for 6:1 and 4:1
BMR adapter for firewall
BMR pushrod
Another race pushrod

I'm obviously keeping my calipers. (2.75" front, PBR rear)

-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

What you really want is a DPDT relay. It controls two things by one input. If you pull the relay everything stops working which is what you want. If a contact breaks internally you still have a fuel vs ECM problem.

Second best is two relays. One relay powers the ECM and the COIL of the fuel relay. The ign switch controls this relay.
The output of the relay goes to the ECM to power it, AND to the fuel relay coil to turn it on. The fuel relay connects to battery and the fuel injectors.

This isolates the ECM from seeing noise caused by the injectors.

EDIT:
How much does that "70" rear end weigh with the drum brakes on it? I am guessing it robs about .3 seconds with weight and inefficiency compared to ford 9" or copy.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the 70u rear with ford drums wont weigh much more then a normal dana 60
just be a few pounds more for the bigger gerts and beefier cast housing
though i did find a cheap bracket kit for putting disc brakes on it

project89

iTrader: (1)

might be to big for me need to look up the charts again for master sizing

86trbota

Do you have a adjustable pushrod? I have a 24mm (15/16) master cylinder with afco 2.75 front and large gm single piston calipers in the back, cant remember the size but I had a similar problem and it ended up being a pushrod adjustment problem. It was not stroking the master cylinder far enough with the same symptoms as yours. Messed around with the adjustment and my pedal feel was night and day difference and I can lock the brakes up anytime now.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yeah both pushrods are adjustable.

The 4:1 ratio gives me a very light pedal, but I don't know if it gives enough travel.

The 6:1 ratio gives good travel, and a firm pedal, but binds a little bit coming out, so the brake light switch sometimes stays on.

I'm tired of playing with it.

-- Joe

86trbota

Mine is on a 6:1 ratio. I would try extending the pushrod on the 6:1 ratio until the brakes start to drag then back it off a little. I had to do this to get the brakes rite, less work then swapping everything over and re-bleeding etc.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's not the problem, at 6:1 the rod binds in the bore of the master because of the angle of the firewall. This causes it to rub and not completely return.

The adapter plate should be angled slightly to raise the front of the master UP. This would solve the problem, but I'm not interested in shimming the adapter and playing with it anymore.

Malibudave recommended grinding the pushrod down to 5/16", but I'm not doing that either.

-- Joe

86trbota

I see. I have Malibu Dave's manual brake conversion kit. It moves the master up 2" to solve that problem. Works great

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Exactly, so the pushrod ends up being straight.

I'm thinking a 4th gen firewall is at a different angle, which is what the BMR kit is based on.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

damn with all the issues with manual brakes i think ill just add an electric vacum pump or a resivor to my car instead of dealing with the manual swap

86trbota

Manual brakes are not that big of a deal. I did alot of research before I bought all the parts. Malibu Dave has a very nice kit for cheap that locates the master cylinder 2" up of the stock mount so you can get the 6:1 pedal ratio without running into problems. My car stops better with the manual brakes than with the power but I did a rear disk conversion and bigger single piston calipers up front with powerstop pads and drilled and slotted rotors. I'm very glad I did the break swap. I have a 15/16 master cylinder and the stock prop valve that has been gutted.

project89

iTrader: (1)

ill look into it some more then im just tierd of buying things then having to modify them for them to work right , and especially crawling around under the dash trying to get the pedal and all that drilled right

i would love all the extra room under the hood though

my cam makes very little vacuum specially at my altitude so i do need to do something in the future


first things first i need to get those injectors from joe in the car and see if it solves my ecm issues first

86trbota

No drilling under the dash. Take the brake pedal assembly out and drill it. I had his kit installed in 2 hours

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The 2" hole drilled in the firewall bothers me. Makes it very difficult to go back to stock without having to weld a plate in.

My cam makes around 14hg of vac at idle. Under boost of course I have no vac, but the second I'm off throttle it should dive. In theory.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

my motor only makes 7 ish inches of vacum , so as is i get one good press on the pedal , i have other issues to worry about first though

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Hydroboost and be done with it. More room than you can imagine with no booster, better stopping and great pedal. Bolt in and go. less than $400.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

What are you running for a cam?

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

xe 274 installed straight up + the fact im 6500ft above sealevel makes it worse

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's a strange cam to use with forced induction.

Your injectors will be there Friday, btw.


-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

i think its a pretty good cam given the combo

230/236* @ .050 on a 110lsa

i really should have a solid or hyd roller to take advantage of the heads though

how did u ship ups/fedex or postal ?
hell i know what im doing on saturday then

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

110* lobe separation..

It went out USPS priority. Hopefully they will help pinpoint your problem.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

when u get a good free flowing ex system with a turbo u can run a cam closer to what u would n/a


we will see on saturday , i already have the valve covers off and the harness pulled off the injectors , just gota take out the fuel rail holddown bolts and swap in the new injectors and see what happens

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

What do you think is wrong with the injectors in it? If you are installing satured in place of P&H and you have marginal noise problem then the "reset" problem will go away. But this doesn't make the problem the P&H injectors.

Have you tried disconnecting the ECM power wire and connecting it straight to battery in order to rule out a wiring noise problem?

project89

iTrader: (1)

i just think its to much for the ecm to handle current wise , noise from low-z injectors is a known issue with the ms1/2 cpus . even though its capable of running 8 low-z injectors they only want u to run 4

project89

iTrader: (1)

i have the day off work tommorow , due to my boss going deer hunting , so if thos einjectors get here tommorow i should have them in sometime after lunch time

project89

iTrader: (1)

no injectors at post office today
though i share a po box with a niebor so maybe they picked up everything cause the box was empty , have to wait till they get home later to find out

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I can check the tracking number later.

Why wouldn't they leave things with your name on them?

It's a priority mail flate rate box.

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

they normally do , but since the po box was totally empty i figured maybe they picked them up( its not normally empty) , not a big deal if they did pick them up except for the fact id have had them in already

also when a package comes that doesnt fit int he po box they leave a slip and u have to goto the window to pick it up so u dont know whos name is on it till they give it to ya

downside to living in a very small town with a post office that doesnt have enough po boxes for all the residents lol


anyways let me know when u can joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Maybe the aliens over at Area 52 in Utah took it lol. You do know that's where they shoot all of the Mars footage, then tint it red for public consumption and everyone eats its up lol.

project89

iTrader: (1)

naw we dont have nothing like that going on around here just rednecks blowing **** up is all

volume warning

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Injectors show up?

project89

iTrader: (1)

no i havent gone back to the post office , figured id wait and see when my niebor got home tonight or just go back in the morning since i have a new mobo for my pc showing up tom

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

DATE & TIME
STATUS OF ITEM
LOCATION
October 28, 2016 , 9:46 am
Delivered, Individual Picked Up at Post Office
BEAVER, UT 84713
Your item was picked up at the post office at 9:46 am on October 28, 2016 in BEAVER, UT 84713.
October 28, 2016 , 8:10 am
Available at PO Box
BEAVER, UT 84713

He stole your injectors

-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

lol yeah i got them when the neibor got home , unfortunatly it was way to late to install them and i had to work on the farm all day today .

so hopefully tommorow ill get them installed but its supposed to rain so we will see

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Well, hopefully they will help you figure out what is going on.

I'm still not sure what direction I'm going in with the Firebird. Part of me wants it to be a kickass track car, but in reality I don't have time to go to the track more than maybe twice per year. I didn't even make it as a spectator this year.

I picked this up yesterday morning:




I have zero plans to mod it, it runs and drives really nice as is. Is only 300hp, but has ice cold AC and is fun to drive.

So I dunno. Part of me wants to take the blower out of the Formula cuz 400-450hp n/a is plenty fine for a street car. Another part of me wants to see some fast passes at the track.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Nice pickup Joe, what year?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

'94. Bone stock LT1 car with a 3.07 rear, automatic, and a bunch of options.

I put 100 miles on it yesterday. Drives nice.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Very nice cruiser, makes me miss my White one. Only mods I would do is stall speed, leave everything else the way it is and enjoy it. Stay away from Moates' website though because you just might get carried away with tuning, then mods lol...

As for you Dave, isn't that intake supposed to allow quick injector changing? Should take you minutes compared to my TPI system. No excuses, get it done, if Utah is anything today like here in New Jersey, it should be the perfect day out there...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

$EE is a flash, so it tunes through my ALDL cable. I have the definition and software to flash it. The only thing I'd do is delete all the liberal err emissions junk, so I can rip that stuff out.

The only thing odd about the car is that the speedo is way off. Like at 60mph it reads 90mph. That's a new one for me. I wonder if someone swapped the PCM and didn't flash it for the 3.07 gear ratio. (most cars got 2.59)


-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

But what are you going to use to tune it? Datamaster? I thought the same thing with my '95, but the opti always got in the way, which is why I never pursued doing anything with that vette. Jack the back up, mark the universal joint, and start turning the wheels while counting the rotations of the driveshaft...

project89

iTrader: (1)

injectors installed but i dont have my laptop its down the shop , ill grab it tomrow while at work so i can change the injectors settings in the ecm and fire it up

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Tunercat.

There's a website dedicated to that ECM as well:

http://fbodytech.com/eehack-2/eehack-features/

I'm not going to do any performance related mods to the car. I'm leaving it stock.

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Pretty neat on the ECM tuning page, although I would seriously reconsider upping the stall to at least 3000-RPM, makes one hell of a difference on a bone stock LT1. My '95 with the 2.54 gears out back pulled like a mother on the highway with that stall speed, sadly I never got to the track with that stall converter though...

Get it done bro...

Mrich0908

I have that throttle body . Very trick piece.
Look into hp tuners gen 3 ecm and efi connections 24x reluctor. Hp tuners tunes all american obd2 v8 (some v6)cars . I love mine.