ive had alot of setbacks over the past few years form health issues to job/money issues , got sick of the car didnt want it etc etc

well come hell or high water im finishing it very shortly , my th350 w/transbrake fti converter and a bunch of other parts will be assembled soon

anyways let me run down the plan and then post a few pics for the backstory/current status of the car

the plan is to reassemble tear down the engine and give everything a once over while im in there i need to swap the cam .

somehow when i picked all my parts i goofed up some math somewere and ended up at 10.25-1 cr with my current selection of parts , so im going to bump up the cam to bleed off some of the cyl presure since i have a 4,200 ish stall converter

the list of things that need to be done

#1 engine inspection and recam
#2 th350 build/onstall
## the entire car was stripped to a roller which is fine as now its finally ready for paint
#4 reasemble car
#5 drive the wheels off it

heres some pics form when i first built the new motor
for those of u who dont rember

350sbc with a .020 over bore i.e 352ci
stock crank
aftermarket bushed rods
floating speedpro -10cc dished pistons
proheader/dart pro 1 platnim knockoff heads 200cc runner 64cc chambers 2.02/1.94 valves , slightly modified
custom grind cam form delta
ching chong hsr ported out to match the heads




bottom end






and a stocker vs the aftermarket stuff



and the intake

 

front hweels and chute






on the car



chute mounted



front end all cutup to make room



and this is the car right now



completly stripped and ready for paint and reassembly , i should be updating this alot as i want to get the car done by the end of next month

 

i quess i forgot to mention , the new turbo is a t76 for the street and an s475 billett wheel for when i want to get rowdy

 

. Are you still mixing up your + and - ??? I get about 9.79:1 assuming .040" quench distance... (10cc dish (looks a little bigger), .025" deck, .015" shim head gasket, 64cc chambers, 4.020" bore x 3.48" stroke = 353.36 cu. in.)

http://www.summitracing.com/popup/ca...ion-calculator

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench

. Still, I thought you needed about 7:1 - 8:1 for enough boost to make 1,000 HP without your DCR going to the moon... and/or seriously high octane fuel... here's 1,000 HP from a stock 351W shortblock:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...p/viewall.html

. One of these days I want to get around to experimenting with my TPI plenum on a Weiand tunnel ram base...
.

 

.005 in the hole was supposed to be 0 deck , gasket in it now is .021 compressed , but they are getting changed for some mls stuff which will bring that down to the .015-.018 range

regaurdless this will be the most cr ive ran with a turbo and pump gas , at my alttitude ( 6500 above sealevel) i should be ok but im still recamming it just incase

 

I don't think you'll make it. I'm hoping you prove me wrong. Watching this one for sure.

 

Ive been watching this build for years and haven't seen much more than a slow cruise video on a crappy camera at night.

 

Pistons .005" in the hole and only .018" compressed gaskets leaves you a piston to head clearance of .023"! That is way too tight in my opinion. You might get by if you had tight bearing clearances, low RPM and a pressed piston. Low .030's is what you should be shooting for. Get a thicker head gasket (.045" would be okay).


Forge ahead and finish this!

 

MAN!! They pushed it till she blew... Crazy mo fos.

 

yeah im going to figure something out when i swap the cam , might have the pistons fly cut or something , it ended up being way tighter then i wanted due to me not paying attention when i selected parts and then putting it together anyways being in a rush

it has loose clearances in the bottom end and floating pins so its something i need to adress for sure

 

hah ill take care of that soon i have 3 gopros now
been thinking about it and i want to lower the car an inch but im afriad any of the off the shelf springs in the rear are really going to hurt traction , the fronts getting a set of sbc drag springs which i can cut down a lil need to figure something out for the rear , wish i had a spare set of stockers i could try cutting down and see how they do

 

wrong thread ... deleted

 

I didn't ready every single post, but your compression ratio will be around 9.6:1 with a felpro 1010 gasket, with the pistons .005" into the hole. That gives you .044" quench, and would be perfect for aluminum heads.

I know everyone seems to think you should run ultra low compression with boost, but if the car will be driven on the street you are better off low/mid 9's or it will drive like a stone.


I'd be more concerned about driving over that stock crank


-- Joe

 

How many cams has this thing gone through? What cam is going in it now? I think I got lost along the way with what turbo you are going to put on it. A borg warner? It is gonna be a great day when you have it finished and can take it to the track.

The Kirker paint products are decent for the price.

Is that the stock crank? Did you have it re-balanced for the new pistons and rods or calling it good?

 

9.6 isnt bad i was going to shoot for 9.75-1
i dont think i ever told anyone what i had my converter stalled at but its an fti with stall speed set to 4-4200 this thing is going to leave hhard if it hooks up


its gone threw a couple , first the summit cam which i pulled for the 234/234 grind which ate a lobe , then i put the 224/224 back in which i later swapped for a smaller custom grind

crank wa spreviously balanced for the rods and .020 ove rpistions that were in it , i didnt send it off to balance it rather i just matched all the wieghts on the new pistions and rods tot he ones that came out , so should be all good to go there

i have 2 turbos

ching chong 76mm for street/everyday use
bw s475 billet wheel for track/landspeed stuff


this is the paint i have
http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/Midn...457-BCCKIT.htm

 

Quite close to the color I painted my vette back in '07.

-- Joe

 

its an awsome color , black in no to low light/shade , and when the sun hits it it lights up that deep blue , im prolly going to try some silver ghost stripes on it as well.
if i can get the graffics/sign shop in town to cut me some iroc-z stenceils ill prolly do that on the doors in the silver ghost as well isntead of puting stickers back on the doors


i have one issue atm i have half the ppl telling me i dont need to prime my hood since its a steel edm coated hood and to just scuff it with a red scotch bright pad and spray it , and the other half are telling me to prime it


i want to prime it so the base is all the same color but summit will no longer ship there primer to the state of utah , and the half gallon of black epoxy i had went bad.

i know fasteddi over in the v6 section lives right near summit , i may have to see if i sent him over money if he would be willing to pick me up a quart of the black epoxy and activator and ship it over to me

 

If the hood is straight and doesn't need primer to blend/fill scratches then don't prime it. This is very rare.

The car will need to be sealed before painting. I think this is what you are referring to as priming it. Some primers can be reduced in order to be used as a sealer. You want to seal the car in a color that is close to the paint color if possible. Always seal the entire car before painting to keep the color consistent.

Any auto paint shop will carry epoxy primer locally, and other companies carry it online.

 

Have people made that much power with the stock crank before?

 

yes and in a 2 bolt block no less , though turbos are much easier on parts then other power adders, i wouldnt try the same thing with a blower or nitrous

 

Automatic vs manual makes a huge difference too.

-- Joe

 

yes it does,, lot more abuse on the rotating assembly on a stick shift car the an fast shifting auto with a high stall converter

im actually more worried about blowing up the th350 trans then i am the engine,shouldn't be as bad as all the times i blew up a 700r4 though, was a lil concerened about transbrake launches but hell martys car left off the transbrake all the time and besdies a broken piston ring that thing lived just fine.
the engines is actually seeing duty in another car now as well from the last i read on ttf.com

 

So do you have an ETA on when your going to get this thing running? And when can I plan on seeing you hit up RMR? I know things got sour over on UMCA boards but that Better not stop you from coming out and running

 

since the car is torn completly down atm im using the opportunity to paint the car after 2 years of being in primer, thats actually my only holdup at this point
once its painted i bet i can knock the car back together in 1-2 weeks , and i really cant wait to see how much the new trans and converter help out

i will not be traveling to rmr , im the same distance between lvms and rmr so it makes more sense to travel to the better track, be a lil different if rmr was an hour or so closer.
i do however have plans to run the camaro and a turbocharged bike out a speed week this year

 

engine should be back on the stand tommorow .
need to pull the pan and replace the one piece felpro oil pan gasket as its leaking
going to pull a few rod and main caps just to give everything a quick once over while im in there

ive also made the decsicion to not run with the single s475 but to order a second t76
i will be running twin .84 ptrimmed 76's since compression is to high and i cant get it under 10.0-1 without a piston change im going to recam it with something in the mid 245@.050 range
ill try to get some pictures up tommorow

 

huh? 4.020" bore, -10cc reliefs, and 64cc chambers? I'm getting 9.4

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/comp.html


-- Joe

 

with an .040 gasket id be at 9.7 , still a lil on the high side for high boost
might have the pistons fly cut to make them .010 in the hole

i really dont feel like pushing the pistons out though
i wanna get the car ready for silver state classic asap

 

How far in the holes are the pistons right now?

What head gasket part #? 1010?


-- Joe

 

gasket in it now is an .021 compressed i cant recall the number . pistons are .005 in
ill prolly aim for .010-15 in the hole and keep the .021 gaskets if i do push the pistons out
the other option is to cut the valve reliefs a lil bigger, but the pistons have a nice low top ring land so id prolly jut fly cut the tops

 

OK. I've built a lot of engines and I've never went with specs like that.

You are .005" into the hole, which is what I typically target when I deck my blocks. I use a .039" gasket, and for your application i'd do a felpro 1010. On a zero deck block, I use a 1003. Quench tighter than .040 on a blown motor isn't a great idea due to carbon buildup, especially with a horizontal draw intake like an HSR, miniram, etc.

That's 9.64:1

With aluminum heads, that's about where I'd want to be for an intercooled blown motor. Anything between 9.3-9.7. Less than that and it will be a stone off boost. More than that and you need e85 or reduced timing.

-- Joe

 

its been so long sinc eive used or even looked at them do they even make an .040 mls gasket

 

1010 is .039, and 1003 is .041

-- Joe

 

Piston to head at .026 is tight. Do more gasket to get it close to .035-.045.

Dont run 245 deg at .050. Keep it 224-230 deg and not much more.
Comp will be fine. Just keep motor cool and ease up on timing.
Run good intercooler. I love my Air water system but it is more complex and heavier

 

those arent mls but ill give them a shot

 

yeah i dont have the time to switch to an a2w setup my 34x12x4 a2a core should be god for now ive got an alky setup i just dont wanna have to rely on it

with twin ptrims and big gates i figured backpresure would be low enough to run something in the 245 range , not to mention my converter stalls between 4,200-4,500

 

Thats just a large cam for a 352" motor. I think it would run like crap and never light the turbos up. What is that stall rated for? It wont stall the same behind a torquier motor than say a large cammed small cube one. It may flash 4500 now with smaller cam but big cam will shift powerband so much it will bring converter flash point down and be a slug

 

i think i found somethign i like in the 236* range
trying to also resist goin mechanical cam but it may be the only way to get over .550 lift i want, alve train is setup for .650 lift , and the heads very very well at .600 , a bunch better then the .499/.480 the current cam is at

 

Hyd roller conversion would be nice

 

yup put a hydro roller in it.

 

yup i know its just spendy

 

How the heck did I miss this thread lol...

Any updates...?

 

one big update comming , cars going back together and is entered into this years silver state classic aprox 64 days and counting before it gets loaded ont he trailer and towed out to ely nv

 

Good, now the pressure is ON. Sixty four days and counting, get it done man.

 

dam right it is , also rob check ur pm and keep it hush hush

 

Bro you need to announce this soon, that is awesome...

 

we will see what comes out of it first , if i get a green light on the deal ill post it

 

Nice color Joe, that's a very similar color I'm painting my latest turbo project, just going to slap on front and rear SS bumpers, chrome the door handles and front grill, then slap on TBSS rims when done painting. I already removed the rack on the roof, the pin-striping, and the door moldings. She's starting to look pretty stealthy...

 

Just keep pushing those buttons, it will definitely happen...

 

paint is going a lil slower then expected with ambient air temps well above the 100* mark the paint dries as soon as it comes out of the gun. need to a rainy day so the temps come way down, we even tried at night time and air temps were still way to hot

 

59 days and counting...