im pretty sure i could , but i hate working in tight spots like that , ive got a std 4 piece gasket on it

the odd thing is i had issues with it when i first put it on , i bought the gasket set from summit and the front seal wasnt thick enough , but the rear seal was , i had a new seal from an old engine gasket set and the front rubber seal out of that one fit good , i figured if i had any issues with it it would be out of the front seal

im prolly going to put a one piece gasket in it this time

edit iirc i have just shy of an inch from the bottom of the pan to the top of the k-member

im going to see how much room i have to use the cherry picker to lift the engine up with

You don't have an engine bay hoist? They are used to hold the engine up when doing transmissions on FWD cars.

I usually use a 1 pc gasket, and a tube of "the right stuff".

-- Joe

victor reinz 1 piece rubber gasket ftw.

this is going to be a rough job , i was at the shop today and measured pan to k-member clearance and its not even 3/4 of an inch.

if i pull the distributor and dipstick tube for the trans out it looks like i can lift the front of the engine up about 2-3 inches , the problem i see is i dont think i can snake the pan past the flexplate.


i could drop the trans out of the car , and pull the flexplate , that coupled with lifting the front of the engine should allow me to get the pan completely out .

for now im taking a few days off to work on fixing my ecm and give the removal of the pan some more though to see if i canmake the job any easier.

honestly i really do want to cut the center of the k-member out and make it removeable but i dont think doing that with the engine in the car is going to be easy at all. if i do have to end uppulling the engine i will then do it while the engine is out

hey junkcltr i dug out some atx psus that had died on me and mosfets look huge anyway to cross them to see if they will work with the ones specified in the manual?

goign to add these here as well
few more pics i f'ing love this paint




and some of the color change can be seen here
u can see hwo it turns from black to red,blue and purple

What are we going backward w/the updates? There be no engine in that engine bay...

Paint does look good though, gotta admit...

just cause i got so tied up with everything else i never got to post those pictures

Red? Black? Are your freaking eyes okay lol? Did you clear coat it too? If so, how man coats...?

Same Blue/Purple colors and my LS1 Trans Am, remember? 12 seconds with just a stall and CAI...

i need to take pics with something other then my cell if i point a flashlight across the paint u can see all the diff colors

By the way Dave, this place is killer. It's like walking into Summit Racing on steroids, you would love it. They had the biggest damn turbo I have ever seen for sale there, prolly take something from NASA to spool it though lol. Turbo Trix was closed on Saturday, but I am glad I went to S&K, awesome place...

after a 6 day break i think im finally ready to tackle pulling the oil pan and replacing the std gasket with a felpro 1 piece , hopefully all goes well this gives me 15 days to get the car ready for the next race

hey guys working with my buddies ms2-v3.0 running ms2 code not extra

plug it in and crank the engine , ms is reciving and reporting tach signal , fuel injectors are spraying , and its got spark , but engine will not fire.
it doesnt even try to fire


any ideas?
im thinking about swapping a new set of plugs in incase they are fuel fouled fromt he injectors being hung open but i pulled one out and tested it and it showed a good strong spark

Could be plugs. Probably plugs.

But. How far out is the tune for the build?

-- Joe

its the same tune i had in my ecm , i was able to import my ve and ignition tables right into my buddies ms

Agreed. His injectors were stuck open with the old ECM, so he more than likely fouled them...

If they were just wet and never fired then they shouldnt be bad. Just clean em off with brake clean and dry.

It could very well just be start up fueling and timing tables that need tweaked for this setup

i have all the same settings in the new ecm , it fired right up before with my ecm before the injectors hung open im going to stop at napa in the morning and pick up new plugs

Is his wired the same? Another member struggled for a month with similar issue, come to find out he had one wire on a different pin vs software setting.

Look at your ignition settings and verify spark out is on the correct pin.

ill dbl check but it shoudl be right as it does have spark

found a thread on yellow bullet about the autolite 3923's seems the new plugs are going dead on ppl in the burnout box.

so im assuming u get a lil extra fuel on them and they foul out that damn easy

picked up 8 fresh plugs from napa today well see what happens

Seems alittle too hot of a plug for that motor on medium high boost...

might be but i gota go make a few pulls and see what they tell me , witht he issues ive been reading about ont he autolites i wanna switch to an ngk or something soon

Bkr6e is similar i believe. I'd run a 7 to be safe on higher power levels. I run 8's in my car and they are great except the price for iridium. I dont think they make vpowers in that heat with resistor

ok it was the plugs , 8 fresh plugs did the trick , now that i know it runs again im motivated to get that oil pan gasket swapped out , picked up the one piece felpro with the holdup and bolt kit while i was at napa hoping i can swap it out in just a few hours. also need to buy some more good oil as the stuff in the motor is really fuel washed ,

friggen 60$ worth of breakin oil ruined with about 1 min of run time sigh, knowing the oil had a ton of fuel in it i just cranked the engine let it fire and shut it right back off

well im pulling the motor that friggen pan sucks to get off , my turbo heeaders interfere with getting the engine up high ehough , and its not much more work to pull the engine completly out so im just going to yank it , i feel better about that anyways so i can make sure its sealed up good

What are you talking about, is this the stock pan? Remove the distributor cap, unbolt the engine mounts and tranny mount, jack the engine as high as she will go, rotate the crank to number 6 TDC, unbolt the pan, pull it down and out on an angle while rotating the engine as you do so. Should come right out...

not a stock f-body pan , its got a truck pan or something on it , it has less then 1/2 inch clearance when the motor is setting in its mounts . the issue is my driver side turbo header crashes into the prop valve/master etc etc and with the passenger side header on it there isnt room to move the engine to the passenger side so it wont hit.

so im just going to remove the passenger header and pull it up and out put the engine on the stand and do the gasket , wont take much longer then fighting it with the engine in the car, and if i do it in the car ill have to remove both headers

yes it sucks to have to pull the engine to take the oil pan out!

Why don't you unbolt the k-member and lower it ?

If you've got the trans, driveshaft, etc all in, I'd remove the k-member..

-- Joe

not my shop and i cant take up the only last remaining spot on the floor to do it , cars sitting on a drive on lift so its not possible were its at

huh?

I have a cradle that sits in the engine bay to hold the engine. How else would you do clutch jobs in fwd cars?

-- Joe

the shop is the farms shop we dont work on anything fwd , mostly heavy equipment and trucks

anyways i went to the shop after posting and asked the guys if they have anything that needs to come in in the next day or so and they said no .

so the plan is roll the front of the car a few feet off the lift put it on jackstands in the front , and drop the kmember , im going to use the cherry picker to support the engine since i dont have a craddle that fits between the fenders to hold it up

cleaned up around were id have to be working and came home for lunch , when i go back ill start dropping the kmember

hey joe remind me real quick what i need to undue to drop the kmember

brake line
upper strut mounts
springs
steering

???

edit
actually thinking about it the cherry picker may get in my way so ill prolly weld up a craddle to go in the engine bay to hold the motor up

The chinese cradle is $80 at autozone and is adjustable

Brake line that goes across, 6 bolts. I'd leave the struts in place, compress the springs.

-- Joe

the nearest autozone is about a 130 mile round trip easier,faster and cheaper to just make one

not sure if we have a spring compressor in the shop i know my friend has one but he wont be here till friday night and he keeps his tools locked up when hes not here , so it will prolly be the floor jack and chain method for me.

or i could just torch them out and install the drag springs , but i dont wanna do that since they dont handle well on the street

edit

the good news is while i have the springs out i can cut 1/2 or 1 coil off them , so i can get 2 jobs done in one shot

My goodness, all that for just an oil pan gasket replacement lol. Is it on yet lol? Meh, I shouldn't be teasing, it took me this long to fabricate a MAP sensor bracket for the plenum since I brought back my project, just got it done today, hammered an LG4 donor into submission. I shouldn't be throwing any stones lol...

to be honest i didnt even start on it yet , my buddy might need the lift this weekend so i didnt wanna disable the car on or infront of the lift till i knew for sure

Just throw a bead of rightstuff around it and run it lol

lol dont tempt me.
im about to ditch the low-z injectors and pick up some high-z 80's, these peak and hold injectors are starting to be a pain in my ***

A little incentive for you. Check this out, was thrown up yesterday. An early '79 Cutlass with a Buick 3.8 Turbo swap, short block is bone stock, stock iron heads mildly ported, 210/215 cam, stock headers running TE63 turbo @ 27-psi, PTC converter; 1.39 60' off the foot brake (no trans brake)...

Get it done brother...

Yup no reason to have low z today. Those 80's are nice! I ran them to about 850 hp crank

got the trans dropped this morning , hopefully by tonight the engine will be sitting on the stand

How's it going?

-- Joe

engines out , will have the pan back on tommorow , need to order 6 more qts of breakin oil , was alot of fuel in the pan , from the injectors hanging open

I always use the 1pc felpro gasket, and I put "right stuff" on the 4 corners, and the timing cover lip. Never have a problem .

-- Joe

My God, by the time you get that oil pan gasket on I will have my twin turbo manifolds done and bolted on lol. I used the same oil pan gasket as Joe, works great, although I didn't use any right stuff though. Dave are you planning on using, or wanting to use the Shadow Logger, cuz I might be selling it...?

Did you replace your injector drivers? When I burned my drivers up they'd hold the injectors open.

naw i think im moving away from the ms i havent decided yet, motec , aem, sds not sure yet


i am borrwing a friends ms till i get mine fixed , i did pick up the transitors to fix the pwm circut need to order the mosfets still to replace the injector drivers