Just the sake of thoroughness I pulled the ground wires off the ms and the injector circuit went open

 

Resoldering the.Diodes and will retest I'm thinking the new harness I installed has a wire labeled ground were it shouldn't b

 

left soldering iron at home , but im home now for lunch resoldering them now and ill let u guys know what happens , i did manage to get the wastegates on and im going to put the valve body gaskets in when i go back

i looked the car over and theres not to much to do before friday night so if all goes well im still going racing

 

ecm is missing Q10 and Q13 as per this diagram
trying to figure out what they do exactly as they are apart of the flyback dampening circut

 

I assume the flyback dampening circuit dissipates the reverse current caused by the injector's collapsing fields. That may be what zapped the components.

 

The good news is that the 3904 BJTs are a few pennies a piece.

The bad news is without them the MCU can't turn on the flyback ckt.
You NEED that ckt. It probably fried the MOSFETS so quickly becuase you have low-z and PWM them. That means the MOSFETS see a lot of flyback.........and high voltage.

Must have been a mistake that they were never installed. This is what wiped out the MOSFETS Q1/Q5.

Yes, the flyback dissipates the energy stored in the injectors when they are turned off. The injector will create a high voltage across Q1/Q5 without the flyback clamp. It is a fast re-acting ckt due to the MCU turning it one istead of doing a traditional Cap & Resistor or zerer diode or diode to vsupply.

 

 

there we go had to get rid of the massive picture darn thing didnt even fit on my 32 inch monitor lol

shes getting darn close just hope all goes well friday night when i get the ecm to put in

 

Now that's what I'm talking about! She looks awesome Dave...

 

thanks still a bunch to do , not looking foward to the header wrap , deff need to get it all cleaned up if i have time , also need to get a battery mine went dead over the winter barley holds a charge so ive been using a way oversized deep cycle battery that was laying around the shop so i could test the ecm and do the wiring in the car

 

I believe he just discovered the biggest problem with MS, and probably why it has a bad reputation in some circles.

If an idiot assembled it, these are the problems you will get.

Also, MS1/MS2 has too many freaking components.

Microsquirt module 4life


-- Joe

 

exactly had this been somone else who had this unit and purchased it from somone they would be calling it the biggest pos ever , i dont mind to much cause i can fix it and install the missing components. however it is just my luck it would go out right now when im in a mad dash to get the car together

 

That's why I bought an assembled unit. Alot of 'people' make it sound very easy to assemble, but I couldn't justify the time needed to assemble the module for the additional $150ish, keeping in mind that the assembled units are extremely close to plug and play for GM TBI or TPI setup. The assembly appeared a bit intimidating to me also considering I had never done anything like that before. We had to install the HEI mod kit that took 5 minutes, plugged it in and loaded the firmware - it was truly that simple - hence the reason for purchasing the assembled unit. If you're into the assembly ordeal, then more power to you, but I was much more into building the car and being able to tune it.

I've never been around a Microsquirt, is there an advantage with it?

 

MS1/MS2 is what I believe is called a "through hole" board, where all the components are directly soldered. It has a LOT of components.

The Module is 100% surface mount. It uses less components, is less susceptible to interference and vibrations, etc.

MS1/MS2 through hole: http://www.diyautotune.com/images/ms230/ms230-c_2.jpg

Module SMT: http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/p...V2.2_front.jpg

The Module is the size of a credit card. You mount it using 4 standoffs. You can then plug or solder your harness:

http://www.mjscrane.com/GTS1000/file...irt_module.jpg


Most of the PNP Ms ecm's are based on the Module, because it's easier packaging. I put mine in a stock '165 ECM case, and used a stock Delphi 56 header to make it plug and play with '86-89 Fbody/Corvette

-- Joe

 

That little module looks slick..... hard to believe I soldered all that crap together building my ms2. Even more amazing how the car fired right up into an idle after going through the setup wizard.

 

the only thing i dont like about the microsquirt/mod is that it wont do low-z injectors
when u start getting into large injectors the low-z/peak and hold stuff opens much faster so its easier to get the engine to idle on them

heading over now to install the correct valve body gaskets and button up everything under the car , and finish the cold side plumbing , i might actually have time to buff the paint and wheels before i go racing lol

 

Proud of you bro. Get it done so we can see some videos...

 

All depends on the motor possibly, but there is no need to use low z injectors in this day and age

My 127's do just fine at small pulsewidths and fid makes 2000cc injectors that also work well on all kinds of vehicles including small 4-6cyl motors. High z and still idle fine

 

intercooler to motor pipe done , i left the upper 90* turn to the tb not welded on as it would be to much of a pain to take the pipe the pipe in and out of the car, leaving that last bend as a coupler joint makes things much easier

 

So it will handle a GM 8 pin dizzy?

 

we are ready to rock , i justr need to wait for an ecm , got a few minor things to do but nothing i cant do in very short time

gota love the front exit downpipe lol this thing is going to be LOUD

 

great set up!, like the forward radiator mod. is it the stock size radiator or a smaller one?

 

its not a direct fot for a camaro , its something i bought that was for a nova if i recall correctlly, i belive it was 1 inch narrower , even with a std camaro radiator there is still room to put the radiator were i did.

im glad i did it it opened up all kinds of room , this winter when i put the second 76mm turbo on it ill still have a ton of room

edit

i still need to weld in the reinfocement bar were i cut out the top of the radiator support , its some 3/4 inch tubing that runs across and ties the 2 sides back together

 

Yes. That's how I ran for a couple years before switching to DIS.

-- Joe

 

Looks great. It would be nice to have it run a little bit to check the transmission. Got any old ATX power supplies? They have MOSFETs in them. They would squeak by for now.

 

i have a ton of atx psu's that i used to use to power my bitcoin miners , ive since switched to server grade 94% efficiancy psus to save on power costs so all my old atx's are stacked up int he closet


i dont want to take apart any of the atx psus as they are still worth 80-150$ each used on ebay so ill just wait for my buddy to get here tom and use his ecm till i can get the parts ordered for mine

 

I'll give you my Megasquirt for free if you buy the rest of the car

-- Joe

 

lol sure but u have to buy my car as well

 

wohoo the car is ready
going racing on saturday !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Just hope that big cubed, big turbo, high stalled engine is faster than my little ole 305 lol...

Dave, put your memory cap on, do they sell oil drain flanges locally around here...?

 

What have you been running for MPH ?

I was actually thinking about putting a 305 in my boat.

-- Joe

 

With the amount of fuel consumption I am seeing in boost, it's telling me that without boost I am at about 275-300 horsepower naturally aspirated. The only thing different with this bigger turbo is it leans out way faster up top running the same bin. I haven't even touched the VE table yet. I'm waiting on Dave to get his done, then I will start updating my thread, as we have a little competition brewing here lol. I say go for it in terms of the 305. My cam is pretty damn big for the small cube, small runner and stock throttle bodied 305, yet she idles so well I am still taken by it. I remember thinking 220+ duration in a 305 would be horrible in a street setup, and here I m running 230+ and am happy with the way she runs on the street. Gas mileage isn't too great as you would expect...

 

The boat originally had a 4.3 in it. I put a 350 together, but I'm weary that the rating on the boat will be so vastly exceeded. I'm thinking of just tossing a l03 in it with the marine cam, I figure 200 or so hp max.

The problem with a 305 has never been displacement, but valve shrouding. I suspect boost would help with that issue.

I kinda want to take my car apart again.

I'm excited to see what you guys run for MPH. I was hoping to get my car ready for the track for the october racing, but I just bought a lake house and I'm remodeling that before it gets too cold.

-- Joe

 

Me too

 

It's an all nighter for me guys that's why I ain't been posting today. Trans issues I'll b sleeping in the shop tonight to b sure.it's fixed for the morning

 

got the trans issue fixed but the trans leak was masking the other issue , rear main is leaking so im not going , they have another race in 2 weeks im going to go to that instead

 

Ahhh that sucks, sorry to hear you're missing this weekend bro...

Told you I would wait for you to get done, so I'll get some little stuff finished in the interim.

Didn't you pressurize spinning the oil pump with a drill prior to installing into the engine bay to check for leaks...?

 

i did im not sure if its the rear main or the oil pan itself im going to tear into it a lil more today.

the leak didnt show till i put my friends megasquirt int he car and fired the engine.

it is possible maybe its leaking up higher up on the block i wont know till iget the trans out of it again and crank the motor over

its prolly something stupid , or i over looked something after all i did build a complete car including paint in just over 3 weeks

 

Check where you tapped into the engine for oil to the turbo's on the back of the block, more than likely the culprit. Either too loose, or no teflon sealant. Another guess would be the oil dipstick, I hope you remembered to re-install it lol because the pic has it missing...

 

dip stick is in , only think hooked up on the back of the block is my oil presur egauge , im pulling turbo feed oil from the plug infront of the block above the timing cover , ill snap some pics

 

... bingo, kink or tear in the mechanical gauge line, or its' hookup is loose.

 

i dount it it didnt leak at all when i primed the oil pump , and the leak isnt huge thats whyy im thinking oil pan to block is whats leaking , which sucks cause i cant fix it int he car.the leak is big enough to be concerned about though for sure

me and my friend are going to take a look at it in about 30 mins , were going to see if its possible to sawzall out the center of the kmember and fab in a removeable piece with the engine in the car so i dont have to tear the motor down and pull it out

 

also if anyone has 80 pound or larger high z injectors for sale let me know

 

Look at the mechanical oil line, it was crushed and kinked...

 

its not crushed i checked it

 

Dave, you never got back to me, do you remember if they sell return line flanges locally around here in central NJ? Like Turbo Trix, etc.? Gotta get a new one...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...ml#post5963009

 

turbo trix should , if not ebay

 

Haha, I know ebay has them, I just wanted to get it done this weekend without having to wait for it to be shipped. Will give Turbo Trix a shot, not even sure if they are still there or not, it's been awhile. Was hoping you might have remembered other areas that might have carried them as well, I don't remember any Import stores being around that would...

Edit: Found a place in New York for those who are curious, heading out there in a little bit...

http://skspeed.com/search.php?search...flange&Search=

 

ok its the oil pan leaking , now i need to figure out how to get the oil pan off without pulling everything out of the car , i think were going to cut the center of the k member out , and make a new center piece that bolts in and out and reroute the front brakline off the kmember

local radioshack didnt have mosfets but they did have my missing transitors , so no i just need to source the mosfets online somewere

 

can you just lower it enough to redo it? not sure what kind of gasket you are running on the pan...