xc500

Hello
I just got a 1983 trans am for free, I am looking for some suspension upgrades. I got the car for free so i am trying to keep the budget relativity low.
Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Fix all the broke / wore out / inadequate stuff first.

Steering linkage, BJs, control arm bushings, wheel bearings, springs, shocks, struts, strut mounts, sway bar bushings & end links, TIRES & WHEELS.

It is beyond pointless to "mod" a car when the very systems you're "modding" are already failed.

Once the car is in working order, which will only be after most if not all of the above is renewed, then LCARBs, LCAs, brake upgrades.

"Budget" is irrelevant, except for deciding how much to repair in what order. Either the parts are in good shape, or they're not. They don't look in your checking account and decide their condition according to what they see. "Free" is irrelevant for the same reason. Either it works or it doesn't; either you want it to or you don't. You have to be the judge.

Edwardgp

You will have to buy one quality part at a time until you have everything you need. Better yet save until you can afford a quality front suspension kit and get everything at once. Quality being the main issue.

xc500

I should of been more clear on "budget" I am not looking to spend 5k on suspension components, But will spend money to get the right stuff.
Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's a good way to look at it.

What's "most broken"? Start there. Then when everything in that category is taken care of, proceed on to "what would make the most improvement to the car for the least $$$?"

I can tell you from experience, sway bar bushings & end links (NOT stock replacement, I usually use Energy Suspension, either off the aisle at AZ or from Summit) are the absolute highest bang-for-the-buck repair. But of course they're of limited value if the ball joints don't keep the wheels pointed all in the same direction or the brakes won't keep the car from running into brick walls or stuff like that.

paul_huryk

Besides the things that wear out (bushings, steering linkage...), the most important suspension item is your struts and shocks - they control how the car reacts to road irregularities, turns, and other things. A set of Koni SA struts and shocks can turn your car from a a zero into a hero (once you set them up correctly).


One other are that is important are the suspension links and also chassis stiffness.

Chassis stiffness can be brought way up with a welded set of subframe connectors and a strut tower brace.

Suspension links are another story - everything from GM was either bent sheetmetal or had such a **** poor design that you just need to replace everything (as opposed to modifying parts) - panhard rod, TQ arm, rear control arms, front control arms... Go look at a 20 year old BMW and see the machined or welded tube suspension links and compare them to the flimsy GM sheetmetal lunacy.

Last but not least, tires. Front heavy RWD cars like ours require a wide tire (not so low profile sidewalls though) to really handle. There is a huge difference in handling when you compare a 275-40-17 tire to a 245-50-16 sized one.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Replace the rubber suspension parts-BUSHINGS- with polyurethane.

plum92_camaro

Once everthing is fixed and in good shape, get a wonder bar, and check what swaybars you have. Depending on what you have, its easy to upgrade sway bars cheaply at you local junkyard.

Homer23

Nobody is saying to replace your whole suspension system for a 2k set of coilovers and the rest with road race worthy components. Replacing the worn out components will not just aid in ride and handling, but in safety as well. If you need to take your car to a mechanic to drive it and put it on the lift so you know exactly which parts are worn out, that's what you need to do.

For the rest, what are you going to do with your car? Is it a daily driver? Will you race it at the drag strip or autocross/road course? Or is it a combination street/track car? Those answers will determine what you should buy for your car.

91z28ProjectNY

I am in a similar problem. I need to do a full suspension on my 91z28. I am doing the c6z06 brake whole set up and 19 and 20R but don't know nothing lol. Can someone PM a list of what suspension parts I need and the best parts possible please. Any help will be appreciate since I am new to all this. Not sure about dropping car low since I'm in NY and roads are not great here. Many thanks!

83Z28/L69

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ChassisSusp...02/323797/1992

One stop and done.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Cheap just doesn't cut it for the most important performance area of the car.

Here's just the front pieces - no brakes

a-arms $555
koni's $500
strut mounts $289
2" Drop Spindles $750 (modified for Road Race)
weight jacks $125
bump stops $53
Bump Steer kit $170
Springs $80
6pot fr brakes $2400, alum hubs $350

Rear: coil-overs $580
bmr trak pak $429

Already had LCA's & LCA brackets, PHB, Wonder bar, SFC.
I'm still on the stock wheels as I learn to dial it all in! You have to pay to play and be safe!
I did all this BEFORE LS swap and paint because it is a first priority.

plum92_camaro

TEDSgrad, what do you think of that baer bump steer kit? i've been looking at them.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I like them, and have had no problems. The more I learn and look around, Spohn seems to do pretty good.
Been lurking over at lat-g. Highly recommend Ron Sutton's 3 stickies in the suspension section. Can't wait for the book! They're double wishbone guys, but us McStrut guys can still learn alot from them.
Will pick this software up, too: http://performancetrends.com/rc.htm

paul_huryk

Except for the weigh jacks, that pile of parts looks pretty much identical to the ones I am putting in the GTA. Have a 13" 4 piston Wilwood kit to put in too.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Rock Auto a good source, too.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

Don't count out Founders. They are somewhat limited with what parts they carry compared to BMR or UMI, but what they do have is a pretty good deal. I just put some of their stuff on my car last week when I was back home.

91z28ProjectNY

Parts look nice. Order 4 koni struts/shocks and now on to the next set of items

hillntx

I'm with Sofakingdom on this one. Brakes first: Check and replace pads, rotors and fluid as needed to get the car to stop safely. Next replace the 30 year old bushings, shocks, struts, and other wear items and get the car at least up to stock performance before trying to make other bigger mods. A PST suspension kit from the back of most car mags will make a big difference in the handling.

Warhark83camaro

See im ner to the seen i have a berlinetta camaro1983 i know the early third gens are flemzzy beer cans but with power everything its still lighter then a stripped down option wise any ways 1992 v8 5speed

Warhark83camaro

I need budget freindly help i know the sub frame connectors strut brace wonder bar k member braces polyurethane bushings. Cage outa range price wise. But i have 1989 gta 1le sway bars front and back. Vs front only wat springs should i use i can box in rear control arms an pan hard bar but still have stamped torgue arm. Wats a 1le brace

Warhark83camaro

And i would like a showroom stock type suspension 1le style. I know when you box the the rear arms they still flex so you weld a bolt an nut along with cut to lenght bar stock in each hole there's two in each arm. It will give them a bridge like enforcement. Any pics of a 1le brace will help and boxing in the pan hard bar mounts mine is a coupe will t top body enforcement help any on my coupe an anti squat rear control arm relocation brackets can you build them wats the spring rate and weight holding like 400 500 lbs or wat 1le specs are an can i get adjustability out of my factory caster camber plates and wats the specs on 1le shocks. I would like it to handle like my old 89 iroc 1le 305 5speed no ac factory installed.

Warhark83camaro

And wats the rear brace that is talked about in the how to section