CODE 32 RESOLUTION
07-04-2016, 09:29 AM
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Car: 91 z28 camaro
Engine: 5.7 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
CODE 32 RESOLUTION
Hello,
I thought I would share some insight with the EGR code 32. Hopefully I can break it down for people with the same problem that I had and help someone out. Here goes.
1:You will want to check all vacuum lines for cracked, leaking, clogged or even collapsed lines. For around 20-30 bucks, I just replaced mine from top to bottom. Even the Evap canister lines. That way I knew they were good/new.
2:Clean all passageways from the Throttle body, EGR running tube inside the runners. Even the hard lines from any source leading to the Intake.
3:Call GM and give them your VIN. This will not only give you the correct part number but will also tell you which back pressure valve you need (EGR Valve).If you find after cleaning it and testing with a Vacuum tester came back asbad. This is an easy test. You can even take a small mirror, unplug the vac.Line from the Solenoid and test it that way. Make sure you see the valve moveup and hold pretty close to I think 15hg-20hg on the tester. You will see this release slowly since it cannot hold a vacuum while still connected to the intake. MAKE SURE you look up only THAT Part Number on the WEB. You should seethe Exact part number stamped on the top, close to the vacuum port in thepicture. You will also see other numbers listed underneath. This is Critical to getting the right EGR backpressure valve. At the END of the numbers you will see either an N- negative pressure or a P/POS - for positive pressure. The parts stores called for BWD115D this is a POS positive pressure valve. NOT what GM had for my L98.FYI
4:I have seen other threads on the EGR Solenoid testing and operations. I hope I can clear some of this up before people go crazy buying other EGR's, since thisone is discoed.
To test the solenoid all you need is a 9v and vacuum tester. Remove it from thecar. Take some leads and your 9v you should here clicking inside. This meansthe internal valve is working. Now testing the vacuum ports. First the nipple with the brass/gold insert goes to the throttle body, and the other open port goes to the EGR. FYI. Ok this is were the confusion comes in. When you’retesting the solenoid and place power with the 9v the valve becomes closed. NO vacuum to the EGR valve. When you disco the 9v the valve become open, vacuum to the egr valve. Give power to the solenoid, place your tester on the intake side and see if the valve holds vacuum. Take the 9v off and you should drop to 0 onthe tester immediately. Now same thing on the EGR side. When testing this portyou should see a slight vacuum but slowly dissipate since this side is vented,when power is applied. Take power off you should have vacuum from the test be diverted to the intake side port. You can use your finger to block this port to create vacuum and see if it holds. Letting you know the internals seals are still good. If everything tests good, just clean it out with a keyboard can ofair.
If this does not test good, then replace it. Finding a replacement, you will need to head to the junk yard and test out multiple EGR solenoids using the 9v and vacuum tester. MAKE SURE the VALVE opens, with NO power giving the EGR Vacuum and closes when power is supplied, NO vacuum to the EGR Valve. Most replacement or other people have used don't do this. I was also one those people at first.VS18 or EGR232 won’t work by the way. The internal valve operates the reverse of what this system uses. You will need to change out the connector, (I would buy the weather and metric pack connectors and create a female to male adaptor,instead of cutting the connection off and crimping a new one) bought mine off of eBay.
5:make sure to replace your fuel valve solenoid, it costs under 5$ from rockauto. This is between the in line fuel to the Evap canister.
I feel like I missed somethings, hopefully it wasn't too boring but good info for the next. I only wrote this since I saw so many posts but never saw the resolution to the problem.
PS.
My mistake dealing with my code 32 for over 3 months came right back down to the correct backpressure valve (EGR Valve). We have a 91 TPI 5.7 Z28 by the way. After tear down, after tear down. I called GM and bam got the correct EGR back pressurevalve and it’s been running like a champ ever since. Thank you reading, I hope this helps everyone out and fills in the blanks that maybe missing from the other posts.
I thought I would share some insight with the EGR code 32. Hopefully I can break it down for people with the same problem that I had and help someone out. Here goes.
1:You will want to check all vacuum lines for cracked, leaking, clogged or even collapsed lines. For around 20-30 bucks, I just replaced mine from top to bottom. Even the Evap canister lines. That way I knew they were good/new.
2:Clean all passageways from the Throttle body, EGR running tube inside the runners. Even the hard lines from any source leading to the Intake.
3:Call GM and give them your VIN. This will not only give you the correct part number but will also tell you which back pressure valve you need (EGR Valve).If you find after cleaning it and testing with a Vacuum tester came back asbad. This is an easy test. You can even take a small mirror, unplug the vac.Line from the Solenoid and test it that way. Make sure you see the valve moveup and hold pretty close to I think 15hg-20hg on the tester. You will see this release slowly since it cannot hold a vacuum while still connected to the intake. MAKE SURE you look up only THAT Part Number on the WEB. You should seethe Exact part number stamped on the top, close to the vacuum port in thepicture. You will also see other numbers listed underneath. This is Critical to getting the right EGR backpressure valve. At the END of the numbers you will see either an N- negative pressure or a P/POS - for positive pressure. The parts stores called for BWD115D this is a POS positive pressure valve. NOT what GM had for my L98.FYI
4:I have seen other threads on the EGR Solenoid testing and operations. I hope I can clear some of this up before people go crazy buying other EGR's, since thisone is discoed.
To test the solenoid all you need is a 9v and vacuum tester. Remove it from thecar. Take some leads and your 9v you should here clicking inside. This meansthe internal valve is working. Now testing the vacuum ports. First the nipple with the brass/gold insert goes to the throttle body, and the other open port goes to the EGR. FYI. Ok this is were the confusion comes in. When you’retesting the solenoid and place power with the 9v the valve becomes closed. NO vacuum to the EGR valve. When you disco the 9v the valve become open, vacuum to the egr valve. Give power to the solenoid, place your tester on the intake side and see if the valve holds vacuum. Take the 9v off and you should drop to 0 onthe tester immediately. Now same thing on the EGR side. When testing this portyou should see a slight vacuum but slowly dissipate since this side is vented,when power is applied. Take power off you should have vacuum from the test be diverted to the intake side port. You can use your finger to block this port to create vacuum and see if it holds. Letting you know the internals seals are still good. If everything tests good, just clean it out with a keyboard can ofair.
If this does not test good, then replace it. Finding a replacement, you will need to head to the junk yard and test out multiple EGR solenoids using the 9v and vacuum tester. MAKE SURE the VALVE opens, with NO power giving the EGR Vacuum and closes when power is supplied, NO vacuum to the EGR Valve. Most replacement or other people have used don't do this. I was also one those people at first.VS18 or EGR232 won’t work by the way. The internal valve operates the reverse of what this system uses. You will need to change out the connector, (I would buy the weather and metric pack connectors and create a female to male adaptor,instead of cutting the connection off and crimping a new one) bought mine off of eBay.
5:make sure to replace your fuel valve solenoid, it costs under 5$ from rockauto. This is between the in line fuel to the Evap canister.
I feel like I missed somethings, hopefully it wasn't too boring but good info for the next. I only wrote this since I saw so many posts but never saw the resolution to the problem.
PS.
My mistake dealing with my code 32 for over 3 months came right back down to the correct backpressure valve (EGR Valve). We have a 91 TPI 5.7 Z28 by the way. After tear down, after tear down. I called GM and bam got the correct EGR back pressurevalve and it’s been running like a champ ever since. Thank you reading, I hope this helps everyone out and fills in the blanks that maybe missing from the other posts.
Last edited by z28 prime; 07-04-2016 at 10:48 AM. Reason: spelling
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