Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
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Saved by the competition, isnt that allways the way, well at least maybe now i can call someoane about my mp3 player messing up. i dont know as to whether or not i would say its black, its dasrker than some but not quite like penzoil. i use conventional mobil and it goes in and comes out a nice amber color.
Originally posted by AJ_92RS Huh. My friend must be lying again.
lol, maybe if you poured it into a huge container where not much light can get to it it can looks that way. It kind of looked that way when I soaked all of my rockers in oil before I put my LS1 back together, but when you look at it on a dipstick its so light it's hard to see. It's definitely not black.
Years ago there was an oil that was as black as coal. I forget which company made it. It had graphite in it, AFAIK, which made it black. It didn't last long.
I don't appreciate your snide attitude! Just because you do not know me does not mean I am an idiot, yes I can read between the lines. The seals are from my ZZ4 crate engine that GM manufactured and my TCI transmission! I suppose that neither GM or TCI have a clue. Of course being a mechanic for 9 years would not allow me to develop a good understanding of gaskets, I guess I had better go back to school! The only reason your engine did not leak is probably because you have soooo much cr@p in or on your engine already, you did say 125K+ miles, that water could not get out if it were in the crankcase. I was not trying to bash anyone or synthetics, just trying to give a realistic picture of a worse case scenario. Not generalizing by saying my engine has "this" and "this" must apply to everyone else, like yourself.
I could care less if your a mechanic and you do know allllll about gaskets and so on, but if I had a new tranny and motor and new gaskets and it leaked I would be pissed. I have 5 auto's and all use Syn and NOT 1 leaks. one with 150K 142K 81K, 70K and 39K. I could see if you had an older motor and it leaked but come on? A new crate motor leak oil? Not in my books.
Originally posted by Wezzeles dont worry about the leaking. chevys only run good when they leak. everyone knows that. mine leaks coolant, oil and gear oil. runs perfectly
A friend of mine runs K&N oil filters on his Pathfinder, because of the hex head wrench flat on the end. Otherwise you have to drive a screwdriver through the filter to get it undone. It's impossible to get an oil filter wrench on it, but it comes off every time because of that bolt head. Now, if they just made a way to make the spark plugs easier to change...
Figured I'd post an update since it's been 500 miles since my first oil change with Mobil 1. Car still doesn't smoke at all, it leaks around the valve cover gasket but it leaked there before, I already have the new gaskets just need to get around to doing them......and no the leak didn't get worse when I switched.
For what it's worth my fuel economy went from a consistent 160 miles on a tank to 175 miles. It also idles a tad bit smoother. I'm quite impressed with this oil and will continue to use it in the bird.
I don't mind changing my oil often, for what Mobil 1 costs for 3000 miles I could use Mobil DriveClean every 1000 miles. which would be better? and I've been using K&N oil filters because they're easier to take off too, but are they worth it otherwise?
There's no reason to change Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles! I go 8,000 between changes, and it works out to be about the same as running conventional and changing it every 3,000 cost wise. They sysnthetic oil is still way better for the engine though.
Originally posted by TKOPerformance A friend of mine runs K&N oil filters on his Pathfinder, because of the hex head wrench flat on the end. Otherwise you have to drive a screwdriver through the filter to get it undone. It's impossible to get an oil filter wrench on it, but it comes off every time because of that bolt head. Now, if they just made a way to make the spark plugs easier to change...
I hate that frickin screw driver trick. I have to use it every time I do the 6 in my 3rd gen. What a mess it makes and having oil run down your arm is a blast, epically when you feel it hit your pit and get a little tickle from the toxins mixing with right guard.
As for changing oil filters Autozone and the others carry several different filter "caps" that will fit on the bottom of the oil filter. You can snap your ratched in and easily loosen the filter without using a screwdriver. Works way better than the old oil filter wrench.
WTR Mobile 1
Ran Quaker State Deluxe/Premium in the RS for 165,000 miles. The RS didn't rev as well as the RS did at one time. I switched to Mobile 1 5w-30 after four years of 5w-30, I use 10w-30 to reduce oil consumption. PCV is prone to hang up and the car likes to suck oil into the breather. Car leaks a little but it's 14 years old in May. Have 260,000 miles on the orginal engine & tranny.
Changed QS & filter every 4,000 miles
Change Mobile 1 every 6,000 miles
In good tune at the sniffer with no tricks the car can blow ~12 PPM last year. Did a 7 PPM the year before. My 99 LS1 T/A did 12 PPM when it was new. So I don't think the slightly longer oil change intervals or the QS hurt the engine in the least.
RS will keep getting Mobile 1 in some flavor or other until the 305 is pulled and replaced with an LS1.
There isn't always enough room to use the "end cap" style filter wrench. Believe me I tried everything before resorting to the screwdriver trick.
I'm not trying to pass this off as a fact that can be 100% substantiated, but I heard that Quaker State tends to build sludge in an engine. I've heard this from three different mechanics, and the operator of my local machine shop. The machine shop guy claimed that there was too much parrafin in the oil, which is what caused the problem.
Years ago I bought a junkyard motor to replace the 351M that threw a rod in my Bronco. When I pulled the valve covers and intake from the junkyard motor to reseal them I couldn't believe what I saw. The valvecovers and lifter valley were packed solid with this horrible black stuff. There was an imprint of the heat shield on the bottom of the intake in the crap in the valley. The motor ran fine (I heard it run at the junkyard before they pulled it), and I cleaned all the scuzz out of the engine and it ran fine until I parted out the truck. When I told this story to the machine shop operator he called the motor a "Quaker State Mill". I got a kick out of that.
sometimes my quaker is thick and sludgy, then i add more milk. i like when it gets lumpy. and brown sugar is the way to go! oh wait, motor oil....
like the person before me said "not 100%" but every engine that has run quaker that i have ever delt with had a similar buildup. very nasty. allthough they normally run ok im curious as to wether or not this buildup could cause oil pressure loss or any other problems. from what i have seen of mobil 1 about 8 thousand miles or so seems to be about the time to change oil. but even at 8k it comes out cleaner than most conventional oils do at 3k.
Mobil 1 always! I also use an AC delco PF-35 instead of the PF-25. It gives you a little over a half of quart more oil than the 25. It will fit 395's and 350's TBI and TPI even with headers,
What's the overall condition of the motor? If the engine is smoking and has bad compression now I wouldn't waste money on synthetic oil. Chances are it will only exacerbate the problems. Plus, if it's leaking or buring oil would you rather lose oil that's $7.00 a quart or $0.99?
Mobil 1 filter is made by champion labs, FYI, the same company that builds the Wal-Mart super tech filters. They're NOT the same filter, but htey are still better than a fram.
My research showed that Chevron's 10W30 was the best all-around conventional oil. At 1.08/qt at wally world with the 1.98 super tech 1218 filter, it'll be a nice cheap change.
Mobil 1 is nice for modified engines that run hotter, and harder. I think it's overkill for most stock lg4's and L05's... FYI, AC discontinued the L35's because the 1`218 is a superior later design with an anti-drainback valve.
Somewhere I read an article by somebody that did a scientific study on oil filters, and the Purulator Pure Ones were rated real high. I wish I could just remember what that site was.
In my 89 GTA I run Mobil 1 20w-50... yes, it is probably overkill, but I dont have any problems with it, so I will use it. And it is a darkish amber color, but nowhere near black, even when changed.
