91 355 z28

so im looking into a world aluminum block and an eagle 383 bottom end and some kind of aluminum heads.. wuts the expierience with cooling issues with aluminum in 3rd gens and.. but more importantly the blocks.. hows the casting? machine work.. u get the idea

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

with a proper cooling system there would be no problems.

is it really worth the $3500 for just a block? my , totally overkill and a waste of money.

World makes good stuff, so im sure the casting and machine work is top notch

89pontiac400

iTrader: (1)

I have one of thier blocks. I got the race preped iron blocks and all the Sepcs where perfect and the quality looks very good I would buy from them agian for shure. I also think the aluminum block isn't worth the money. your saving alot of wieght just buy using aluminum heads.

86TA355SR

iTrader: (1)

There was an issue of Car Craft or Hot Rod a year ago that had the BMRE all Al 427 SBC motor buildup and dyno run. It made a few more ponies than the iron version, BMRE said that was due to the extra strengthing they added to the Al block. It is an awesome motor. You could also just buy a shortblock.

Just my opinion, but if you spend that much coin, don't stop at a 383, go to the 427. If I remember correctly, they were about the same price for a short block. And, besides, it's your money, do what you want with your car. Good luck, keep us updated.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Aluminum block is 100 LBS lighter than a iron block !!!!! big difference in handling !!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I read an article on using an aluminum block, i'd guess it was the Car craft or hot rod one from last year as well. I remember them showing virtually no difference in power.
However a key point is that aluminum grows much differently than iron, and to use SMALLER bearing clearances for the mains IIRC.
Weight savings is the big one, but for the price, is it worth it? I dunno.

91 355 z28

yeah the weight savings is wut im looking for.. i just figure if im gunna redo the whole thing top to bottom i might as well go all the way haha.. plus i figure it should make it handle a lot better with the right suspension.. and i am considering the 427.. but i dont want something to crazy as i do intend on driving this car a lot when its done.. close to daily driven amounts.. as thats wut it is now and for the next 2 months or so till i but a new truck but i love the thing.. however the aluminum block might just wait until i get a dynacorn 69 camaro hehehe.. i just want to do it right with a gorgeous car making around 500-600 ponies haha

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

you want aluminum? Whats wrong with an LS based motor?

matt_p

Yeah, if you want to spend the money on an aluminum block, go Gen III/IV. You'll have a way better engine.

91 355 z28

ehh to be honest id like to keep it a gen1 style engine.. all that technology nd computers nd crap.. i hate it.. i spend all day long working on all that garbage and i dont know.. i just wanna keep it gen1 type, id like to go aftermarket castings anyways so the quality will be on the level of the ls1 castings.. i have found a friend who has a friend using one.. he said several years of drag racing and its held up great and is a nice engine..

r90camarors

You do know they make carb intakes for the gen III/IV blocks, right? The only thing computer controlled at that point is spark. I would also highly suggest an LSX engine. I love my gen I simplicity, but man the LSx engines are awesome. The LS1 in my '99 TA is a bolt on car + cam. Very street friendly (except mpg) and dynoed at over 400rwhp on a mustang dyno. For those not familiar, that would be about 435rwhp on a dyno jet. Just food for thought.

I have only heard good stuff on world blocks. However, like previously mentioned, I believe the main benefit is weight savings. So if you are completely stuck on gen I, and have the money to spend on the aluminum block AND tubular k member/a arms and a dry cell battery go for it. If you are going to spend that kind of money for weight savings on the block, I hope you had planned on spending money on weight savings elsewhere as well.

matt_p

the guys at chevelles.com hate the world block. search the forum there for what they think of it.

jonmark1985

I can't see spending money on the block and then getting an eagle rotating assembly.

Guest

Those the same guys that love the 151 cam? I take everything on that site with a big grain of salt. 327's and camelhump or whatever heads are apparently better than anything.

matt_p

I dont know what the 151 cam is. never seen anyone mention it. I do know they like the Voodoo cams and Harold Brookshire posts there too. Good knowledge from him.

Some guys have gotten world blocks and messed threads in the head bolt holes.

Shagwell

according to most major engine builders, aluminum blocks cost you hp. ReherMorrison and Oddy Perfection engines for two I can think of. The heat dissappation, plus they "grow". As stated, you have to run much tighter tolerances, as they will loosen up as they warm up. - The KB olds block in the 10.5 outlaw car we work on changes the valve lash almost .025 from cold to warm, and it has head studs that screw clear down into the pan rail. - With those tighter tolerances, you will need to allow the engine time to warm up before loading it, thus imagine bringing your date out of the movies, only to sit in the parking lot for 15+min waiting for your engine to get enough heat to not gall a surface due to improper tolerances.

Most high-end engine builders only reccomend aluminum blocks in an application where weight is everything, like pro stock. I'd spend my money elsewhere for a street car. Tube out the front end and throw the battery/etc in the back. The weight savings can be found in mcuh lower $ increments.

Factory cast aluminum blocks are very different than the aftermarket gen I/II sbc blocks. They are designed for the daily grind(street use). Although world, donovan, brodix, etc all build/machine great aluminum engine blocks, the bottom line is that none are designed to be used in a daily oriented street car. If you must have an aluminum block, drop an LS engine in. Dollar for dollar, they don't make any more power than an "old-school" small block(it's been proven several times), but they're hard to beat for stock drop in power.

89rsragtop

91 355 Z28
I work at world products sales and tech. I also drive a LS1 conversion 3rd gen. Done for me by Hawks. My company is not a sponsor at this site so I can't comment on this thread. You can give me a call at my work. Not for a sale but for some straight info about both options, ask for Tom

1983Fbody

I've put about 10,000mi on an aluminum world block, still going strong. I had a pinhole leak in the radiator and the electric fan quit spinning which caused the temps to hit 250 a couple of times before finding the problems. It didn't start using oil, the head gasket didn't blow, if anything it just helped to season the block. W/ the cylinder studs and design of the engine I think it would take a bit more than those temps to cause any serious problems. You cant run head bolts w/ this engine, there is a specific kit that ARP makes, the studs go down into the bottom of the block past where the pistons travel. They claim up to 20hp gain w/ the added reinforcements, I didn't see it on the dyno. It wasn't any diff. than an iron block of same displacement/heads/cam..

There is no reason not to go to 427-434, both can be had w/ stroke alone leaving you w/ a lot of cylinder wall for future rebuilds. The price difference will be next to nothing unless you are restriced by rules for racing. I already had a 5140 3.875 crank so I used that and ended up @ 414c.i. Using Victor Jr. heads and a custom comp cam hyd. roller/ rpm air gap the engine dyno'd at 450hp/ 500lb.ft. of torque. I've since replaced the air gap w/ a vic. jr. intake and didn't notice any loss of lowend power or driveability. Soon I'll have the 1 7/8 headers and have to dyno it again.

If I could do it again I would have gotten the iron block w/ a solid roller, the money saved on the block could be better spent on fuel injection/turbo/etc..

Shagwell

good to know -