anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Just thought I would post feedback on this. I purchased the "kit" for $210 from SSAC. It actually took me a little while to find it on the xs-power website because the description is a "small block chevy conversion".

It comes with a passenger side turbo header, driver side header, and crossover. All made from 304 stainless steel, and all very high quality welds. The material thickness is 16 gauge throughout. I've welded on these, they are strong and very well made.

In stock form, it fits a thirdgen V8 with a small starter. The passenger side header works with L98 straight plug heads right out of the box. The driver side header fits the thirdgen just fine, clears the steering column, etc. (pix below)

For guys with angle plugs (I.e, AFR) and raised exhaust ports you may have to modify the turbo header. I relocated #8 primary, and moved the wastegate, but I blame that on my AFR heads.


For the money, this stainless "kit" is well built, and I think with something like a GT45 turbo will make 500-600hp on a stock L98. You could theoretically have a complete L98 turbo for $800.00. Using this turbo kit is a no brainer.

Some things to consider: In stock form, at least with my T76 turbo it won't work with AC on serpentine cars as the turbo interferes with the AC compressor/bracket is. These are made for VBELT cars which will work with AC just fine. I opted to modify my serpentine bracket as I don't have AC. You could also move the T4 flange. Again, I modifed mine and welded on it and it's very good quality material.

Where to buy:
http://xs-power.com/gm-turbo-manifolds-3.htm

What's it look like installed ?


Turbo mounted (T76 in this case):



Serpentine bracket modification / AC delete. Vbelt cars work as is:



Driver header and crossover:



Notice it clears the steering shaft and brake lines with plenty of room!

Bottom of driver header:




-- Joe

phoenixxx602

picturs? maybe a link?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...38911742993310

-- Joe

phoenixxx602

these are exactly what I've been looking for can't wait to see them installed on your car

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If you go in the power adder forum there is a few threads. I modified mine because I'm running raised port angled AFR heads, and I wanted to move the wastegate but for a stock L98 they just work.

A whole turbo 'build' will be around $900.

-- Joe

phoenixxx602

any problems with the crossover having the raised ports I have the aFR is also

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yep. The crossover hangs fairly low, but it does screw up the angle a bit. I cut up the crossover and welded vbands on both sides (including the driver header) and tucked it closer to the oil pan like a stock thirdgen y-pipe does.

The biggest problem with AFR heads is the #8 primary almost touches the spark plug. I had to move the #8 primary:

Before:



After:




-- Joe

1992Vortec

just bought a set and started playing around and found that they wont fit stock style vortec heads or older 882 heads (just the heads i have to check clearance with) on passenger side. It hits number 8 primary but they are surprising really nice. I went a different way about moving the primary just because i don't think my welding skills are as well as yours but it should work for me. Looks like it will be a bit tight for the down pipe but should work. Your pics made me buy these manifolds and you have the same valve covers lol like it was meant to be lol. thanks for the info it made my life a lot easier!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Do you have a picture of where #8 was hitting?

I see what you did. You cut and rotated the primary then extended it.

I was tempted to do that but was afraid the downpipe wouldn't clear.

I ended up cutting up the header and re-working it (yet again) and then I moved the turbo forward more.



I get a little tick once and a while out of #8. These would work great out of the box if it wasn't for my AFR heads.

Looking good!

-- Joe

1992Vortec

I dont have a pic but it was pretty much the same spot yours were hitting but straight forward out of the spark plug hole. I couldn't mount the manifold with the plug in installed because it would hit. ya the down pipe is my only concern but i will update with pics. Why did you move the turbo flange forward? Much better spot for the waste gate!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Because I had some concerns about the wastegate's effectiveness in stock configuration. It was a "while we are here" type of thing. I bought 2lbs of stainless tig rods, might as well use them

This was my first time ever tigging stainless steel. Was a nice learning experiment.

But anyway, I wanted the #2 to feed directly into the log, and the WG to be on it's own. I wish I could report how great it has been working, but I've only pulled the car in and out of the shop a half dozen times since winter. I've got a short list of things to do on it before I can road test it. Looks like this year is a bust.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

Ya your WG set up makes much more sense. I was wonder if you knew why the passenger side manifold uses square and the driver uses circle flanges? My thought was either to straighten out the flow of the exhaust on the passenger side because it was so close to the turbo or its just what they had laying around in chine lol

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Because the driver header was taken from the G-body header kit. It's also different diameter primaries.

Basically, the chinese copied the BBS turbo manifold. Then to sell it as a "kit" they found another chinese driver manifold on the shelf, and made a crossover.

It would be nice if they re-designed the #8 primary, but they probably made a hundred thousand of these manifolds.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

Went to hang the driver side header and it wouldn't fit not even close not sure if its my bowtie heads or just a bad header. The number 3 primary sticks out unnecessarily far and hits the steering shaft.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Got a picture? That's odd. Clears quite a bit on mine.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

Sorry its been so long weather finally starting to get bad. Here is a pic it looks like my primary sticks out further than yours...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'll go outside and snap another picture

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Here is some better shots of mine

I think the header is the same, I suspect my Astro steering shaft is a little thinner than yours because the slip portion of yours is closer to the column side. Also, you have an air-bag shaft which I think is a little different too.

I also have AFR heads which raise the exhaust ports 1/4". I don't mean just the port itself, but the bolt holes and everything. I also have poly motor mounts that are less than a year old. So I think my headers are a little higher in the engine bay, and my shaft slightly smaller and it makes all the difference.

Can you measure how far out the #3 sticks from the flange? I'll measure mine. Maybe the 12 year old chinese girl building headers that day didn't cut yours down enough haha

-- Joe

1992Vortec

Hahahaha ya its hard to tell but from your pics it looks like mine sticks out a bit further. just going to be more welding im not too stressed about it. my exhaust ports/ bolt holes are raised as well but its not close at all i mean like the shaft would run though the middle if the primary. ill measure and get back to you. Do you have any pics of your crossover pipe? oh and with the passenger side hitting the starter it all depends on what flywheel you have and or starter. the bigger fly wheel moves the starter outward quite a bit and the stock starters are massive for the big flywheel... thats what i got ill end up using a mini starter but i figure if i build around this massive starters anything will work down the road... ill post more pics of the process

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My crossover is modified.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

finished the hot side today here is some pics

j88l98irocz

iTrader: (4)

Nice work, How are these holding up? Any cracking? Do you think a 88mm turbo would fit on this and clear the stock hood?

1992Vortec

I havent ran my turbo set up very much but i dont think cracking will be a issue. The xs power manifolds are build pretty well with pretty good metal wasn't bad to weld. But with that said a lot of fab work will be required to make these manifolds work. As for fitment under stock hood a GT45 would be a very close fit and require valve cover lowering and tight v belt alt placement. personally cant speak on hood clearance due to me have a wide 4'' cowl hood. I ended up raising my turbo flange and putting a twist in it to clean the serp belt ac bracket utilizing my hood clearance

1992Vortec

hear is a better pic

89blues

iTrader: (1)

so to run this turbo header you have to trim back the ac bracket, did you have to put on a ribbed pulley then get a shorter belt?

1992Vortec

In order to run these manifolds with the stock serp belt the AC bracket will have to be trimmed at the very least. depending on turbo size you will likely end up moving the turbo flange all to together in order to make a few things fit. If you plan on using the stock location of the WG it will also give you problems with the AC bracket. These manifolds should be considered as a good starting point for fabricating to your needs.

cheesehomer

iTrader: (2)

Anesthes
So am I correct in saying that these headers will bolt on a 1987 305 v belt AC on drivers side under stock hood with NO mod's needed ???




92 Vortec... are you keeping the TPI, what size Turbo will you be running and what RPM will it be spooling up at ?


Gotta say ...Great job ... post more pictures.. their great !!
subscribe

1992Vortec

My first idea on using these manifold was to go v belt but after setting the alt and bracket in place it was really tight. I cant say it wont work with a tight belt but it was close. That is me using a GT45 turbo, smaller compressor housing may be a good fit. As far as hood goes i cant say because im using a wide cowl hood. Im running a HSR and hope to be able to turn 6k we shall see soon...

Linson

when you say "raised exhaust ports" are you referring to heads (like my Aluminum Vortecs) that have raised D-shaped exhaust ports and require either D-Port headers (like for an LT1, i guess) or 1 3/4" primaries to cover the entire exhaust port (like my Dyno Don headers currently on the car)?

I'm confused because you mention moving a primary (and by that i can only imagine you are referring to the "angled plug problem". i cant imagine there being enough material to grind away to make the primaries large enough for raised exhaust ports, so i don't understand how you made this work - unless you welded on new primaries...

Linson

this is an older thread.
anyone got a line on any turbo exhaust products (header(s) and crossover) that DO fit more or less "out of the box" and do not require so much fabrication?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

No. AFR heads, and some other aftermarket heads (sportsman II) actually have raised ports. The ports, and the bolt holes are higher in relation to the spark plugs/block/deck. So say your header puts the tube under the spark plug and you normally have 1/4" of clearance, on a raised port you might have no clearance.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm not convinced you read the whole thing.

These fit out of the box, but might have plug interference on aftermarket heads.

No matter what, you are going to have to fabricate a downpipe. You may also have to do something to the #8 primary.

These headers are very popular. They've made and sold probably thousands by now.

-- Joe

86CamaroDan

Doesnt look like it will work with a AC compressor there. =(

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Nope.

Who needs A/C in a race car? haha

-- Joe

86CamaroDan

Personally i could give a **** less. Convincing a girl to jump in a car that might as well be a oven to go on a date is a little bit of a challenge though.

I guess i could allways cut off the flange and angle it a bit sideways.

86CamaroDan

The bigger issue would be seeing if the on3 78MM fits under the hood.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hrmm. I dunno, my wife complains that she's cold when it's 90 out.

-- Joe

kenbob

I know this is an old thread but what did you use for tuning and I have the same headers but I wanna run a T70 with .84 ar I only want 6 psi. I too am running a stealth ram intake but I have vortec heads did you use the factory ecu or an aftermarket?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Aftermarket. I'm using Megasquirt. I have not used a factory thirdgen ECM since 2008 or so. No reason to.

The newer Holley stuff is quite fantastic too. Lots of options.

-- Joe

kenbob

I was trying not to use an aftermarket ecu maybe I could adapt a gnx ecu to work and I don't want to do a ton of rewiring because megasquirt doesn't have the adapter for our ecu anymore and I'm sure I can rewire it myself but I don't want to mess it up and cause my build to take longer

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I used the delphi56 adapter years ago when I did mine because I wanted "plug and play" which honestly has been a pain in the ***. every time I want to add a new function I have to pull the ecm case apart, solder a jumper to an unused wire in the harness, splice it into what I need, etc. I should have just used a modern ECU harness connector and harness.

The factory ECU's are not worth the effort. Way too much time messing with things, slow reporting, poor tuning aids.

-- Joe

kenbob

Thanks for the help I'm gonna look at fast xfi and holley efi

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Great choices. Good luck with the project!

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

if this is for your vortec 350 i would make absolutely sure you run a .96 ar t4 turbine side. Never heard of a .84 being on them unless thats a t3? Def would not do that. It will spool at 1500 rpm and you dont want power there for sake of headgaskets and rods

kenbob

Okay so .96 a/r or higher like a 1.05 I have a fully forged bottom end crank H-beam rods and pistons full floating assembly and fully studded 4 bolt main ZZ4 GM block, MLS head gaskets and arp head studs as well I didn't want this thing coming apart. I also don't want a ton of back pressure in my exhaust but I'd like to be at 6lbs of boost at 2,800 rpm all the way to 6k

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah my 305 had 2 psi by 2500 part throttle with a p trim t70 .96 and that was rear mounted turbo. A front mount built motor will absolutely have boost very early. May want a larger 50-ish mm wastegate cuz you will need to bypass flow

kenbob

Would this work it's .96 a/r turbine and a 4 inch inlet with 3 inch outlet compressor.

kenbob

I purchased a T76 with .96 A/R turbine hopefully it's what I need my cam is set up for 1800-5800 rpm my car will spend most of it's time cruising around and maybe the occasional road racing. One or two drags mainly cruising to hot August nights and Sonic burger

kenbob

Next is some intimate time with a welder and some wiring so now I need to get my EBL flash 2 and get my N/A tune completely correct then install my new engine and turbocharger over the winter. Do y'all think I should get a 44 or bigger wastegate?

kenbob

I ordered my new turbo now I've got to figure out the issue with #8 spark plugs both accel and msd sell short header plugs that do work but clearance is 3mm which is still too close for my liking. Y'all have been a great help I've been trying to start this project since I got the car in 2001 but when the country was attacked I joined the Army and put the country and my family first now I finally have the time and resources to get her done. Thanks for your help and if anyone can give me a good suggestion on which injectors they prefer with a turbo I'm all ears.