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It works! I bolted on the bracket i made and it seems to work great. Once i get around to the head/cam swap and have to take the SR back off then ill make sure to lay the TV cable under the plenum but for now this idea was a life saver! tell me what ya think!
Last edited by 355tpipickup; 06-23-2010 at 07:45 PM.
Wow! That looks like it worked out really well! By looking at the pics, I'm willing to bet it's gonna work just fine. In fact, if you notice how much of an angle the TV cable is at, yours is at almost the exact same angle as mine with the cable under the plenum like it's supposed to be and with the correct Super Ram throttle bracket. I've considered putting a longer stud in my throttle linkage with the TV cable button welded to the end of it to reduce the angle on mine. My transmission guy warned me that I might break the plastic end of the TV cable one of these days due to the angle, but so far it hasn't caused any problems. Your solution to the problem is so simple, yet I never considered just extending the bracket out further. There's plenty of leeway for the throttle and cruise cables, so the TV cable is the only tricky one, and extending the bracket out like that makes it simple! And yeah, I totally sympathize with you on getting the inner plenum/runner bolts started! I'm really grateful that I have long, skinny fingers. Lol. It was a royal PITA to get the first few threads started on them. Slotting the ends of the bolts was a great help though. Once you get them started in the threads straight, it's easy to draw them up into the holes with a precision screwdriver if you have the ends of the bolts slotted. After drawing them up, it's just a couple of quick turns with a small, 1/4" box-end wrench to tighten them up really good. Nice way to "think outside the box(plenum)", literally in this case! You could also weld a longer stud on your throttle arm with the button on the end of it if you wanted a straighter pull on your TV cable. I'm gonna do that to mine one of these days to try and reduce the risk of breaking the plastic piece that snaps on the button. I'll take a pic of mine tomorrow and see if I can get it posted on this thread so you can see the angle mine sits at. It's angled about just the same as yours.
see i thought the same thing...."i wonder how long befor the plastic end on the TV cable breaks?" I was thinkin of ways to move the botton out some also so its not on such an angle but not sure how. was not sure if the throttle linkage was steel or what...didnt know if i could weld on it or not and make it work. Either way im happy with the way it turned out. I need to take it back off and paint it now. I took it for a short drive and it seems to shift just like it did befor the swap so it much be fine for now! I tried to get on it and it poped and didnt really like it much so i guess i wont get to feel the power of the SR tell i get it dyno tuned! Now if i can only figure out the tunnerpro RT and ostrich on the laptop ill be set and ready to get it tuned its always somthing
Lol, I'm soooo with you on that! Getting my "tune" straightened out was probably a bigger PITA than actually putting the damn SR together! Sounds like you're attempting to tune it yourself. If so, at least you're starting out on the right track! I went through one of the so-called mail-order "gurus" and he was about as much help as pissing on a forest fire! Are you running a MAF system or SD? If you're using MAF, the 89 APYN bin is a good base tune to start with. AUJN is a good choice too. For SD a lot of guys seem to go with the AUJP bin. I ran an ADS Superchip in mine while I was waiting for my custom chip to get "fixed" again, and the ADS chip was based off the APYN bin. It ran pretty decent on that. Biggest issue I had with it was the chip was set for 22# injectors, and I'm running 24# SVO's, so it loaded up at idle, but the acceleration wasn't bad at all. Of course that's with a MAF system. If you're running SD, there's a lot more tweaking involved to get it running smoothly. P.S. Just noticed your info says 91 Z/28 TPI. If you are running SD, you've got some tuning work ahead of you for sure! On the plus side, most of the self-tuners on here play with SD systems, so at least you'll have plenty of guys that can help you out.
Yea its SD i found a shop in town that from what ive been told can do it. http://www.performancesolutionsinc.n...sis%20dyno.htm
i wonder how many hours its goin to take....might cost a grip to get it runnin right.
I have done a lot of tunning and getting the AFR more where it needs to be but other then that nothing yet. I plan on gettin it to pass emmission then ripping into the more and doin the 195AFR head cam swap! might take some time tho as i have never been that far into a motor befor!
You'll be in for more tuning again once you do the heads/cam change of course. But I gotta tell ya, the heads are totally worth it! I'm running a set of the older AFR 190's on mine and my motor pulls incredibly well! When I floor the gas it hits 6K in the blink of an eye, and it feels like it'll pull even higher if I stay on it. I've got about 3K on the motor now, and since it's finally getting loosened up and broke in, the power is pretty awesome! With the AFR's and the SR intake there's definitely no hitting the rpm "brick wall" around 4500 like what happens with a stock TPI. The other day the roads were kinda wet, I floored it and the tires broke loose shifting into 3rd gear(700r4) around 50 mph.
yea im excited to get the parts in for sure! the reason im getting the tune done and emmissions tested now is so i have 2 years befor i have to pass it again and i know this will take some time to get the tune right again. Im still wondering if i should take more of the center walls out in the runners or not tho
Nah, those seem thin enough imo. If anything cut the wall down and do a little siamesing on it.
On the attachment to your throttle cable does that piece the cable snaps onto, isnt that threaded? Could you thread an extension on there so it comes out further so the cable pulls straight back? Just a thought.
I could look around and see if I have any used carbides I could give up to help out. Just gave a bunch away a few weeks ago, not sure if I have any more could always look.
Yea thats what i ment about takign the center wall out in the runners some more "siamesing" Forgot the word. I think i will take more out for the new head/cam setup. My problem is i did ALL my mort work with a normal speed drill with a POS bit and it look light years to do haha i have been lookin at the electric die grinders but they want about $225-275! Not sure how much more porting i would ever do after this SR and dont know if i would ever use it again. Lots of coin to drop for one job. I have a amall 2.5gal air compressor but i dont think it would keep up with a air die grinder. I could barrow a bigger compressor but still would need to buy the die grinder so i can work on the parts on my own time and not feel pressed to get it done if i barrowed the tools!
Also not sure if i will run mt little bracket i made for the throttle and TV cable or if i will run them inside the runners like they should be ran.....i dont like the idea of having to pull the plenum apart if i ever had to replace the cable or anythin. But you have a good idea about making my hookup for the TV "Kickdown cable" longer so its not on such a bind! I have a feeling that plastic clip might snap over time. i have not looked to see if i can unthread it or not...ill have to check it out one it warms up some!
Last edited by 355tpipickup; 12-24-2010 at 10:57 AM.
If you can get ahold of access to an air compressor use a cheap air die grinder and an air bleed valve from Harbor freight for 10 then toss it out when youre done.Siamesing with a drill will take an eternity.
ok ill have to check it out! what does an air bleed valve do anyhow? Also what size/style tank would work? I can get ahold of like a framing contractor setup with the motor and belt running most all the time with like two 5-10 gal tanks. I know it will run 4-5 nail guns all day on the job site!
Leave it and put it together, you wont get a golf ball through the base, it changes shape from round to almost squarish. Those runners will give you the power youre after, stop
Leave it and put it together, you wont get a golf ball through the base, it changes shape from round to almost squarish. Those runners will give you the power youre after, stop
haha I very aware of this but thanks for the heads up.
that appeared to be some intensive porting for a big intake going on a 355, i had a similar motor in my GTA, different cam, 58mm,alot of comp, and only had AFR 190's
does anybody have before and after dyno graph to post to actually see where they are loosing and gaing hp or tq? i never touched my plenum just the runners and base and my SR never really died off (shftd at 61-6300) in terms of how it pulled.
alot of what i read seems to point toward a 350 being the smallest motor to start with and that the VE% improves with larger engine size on this manifold.
the best thing i ever did for my motor was fab up a huge in let pipe leading to the motor and modify my MAF housing
Maybe but proper porting seeit myself worth .3 and 3_mph in th2e 1/8
Thats progress
Dont worry about knif eding or any myths....just shorten the runner ifthats what you need. That shor turn is a detrminent but ingeneral those runners are fine esp on a 355
Work on the radius. whoever came up with the "if a golf ball doesnt fit" needs to be slapped. lol. like the ol backpressure myth.
I sold this intake a few months ago. It ran great after ported and i know it made more power vs non ported. If it wasn't such a pain to work on I would have kept it for sure.
I sold this intake a few months ago. It ran great after ported and i know it made more power vs non ported. If it wasn't such a pain to work on I would have kept it for sure.
study air flow and RPM with eng size and what it will need. and then make one..I use a old tunnel ram for the base. and made my top for My aluminum 615CID BBC.
made over 900hp on the dyno under 6800RPM and over 800TQ.on pump gas.. and before a bit of Nitrous Oxide..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 11-07-2020 at 11:45 PM.
Reason: add more info.
study air flow and RPM with eng size and what it will need. and then make one..I use a old tunnel ram for the base. and made my top for My aluminum 615CID BBC.
made over 900hp on the dyno under 6800RPM and over 800TQ.on pump gas.. and before a bit of Nitrous Oxide..
ITS BEEN A CRAZZY YEAR! and stepped away from the car end of things to do the Gun thing as biz is booming!. its a money making Biz.. who knows whats going to take place in the next year.. I cant make them fast enof! even gas is cheaper now under $2 a gal..in the nexed year I see it going over $4 a gal..but on a good note: I see the corona-19 going away by fed / march.. till 2024...the wife and I have had no time off from work.. we both do heath Care. so just 2 days off a week..with call ins from time to time... will try to get back to the car soon...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 11-08-2020 at 05:21 PM.
06-23-2010, 07:42 PM
There's plenty of leeway for the throttle and cruise cables, so the TV cable is the only tricky one, and extending the bracket out like that makes it simple! And yeah, I totally sympathize with you on getting the inner plenum/runner bolts started! I'm really grateful that I have long, skinny fingers. Lol. It was a royal PITA to get the first few threads started on them. Slotting the ends of the bolts was a great help though. Once you get them started in the threads straight, it's easy to draw them up into the holes with a precision screwdriver if you have the ends of the bolts slotted. After drawing them up, it's just a couple of quick turns with a small, 1/4" box-end wrench to tighten them up really good. Nice way to "think outside the box(plenum)", literally in this case! 
You could also weld a longer stud on your throttle arm with the button on the end of it if you wanted a straighter pull on your TV cable. I'm gonna do that to mine one of these days to try and reduce the risk of breaking the plastic piece that snaps on the button. I'll take a pic of mine tomorrow and see if I can get it posted on this thread so you can see the angle mine sits at. It's angled about just the same as yours. 
its always somthing 
Are you running a MAF system or SD? If you're using MAF, the 89 APYN bin is a good base tune to start with. AUJN is a good choice too. For SD a lot of guys seem to go with the AUJP bin. I ran an ADS Superchip in mine while I was waiting for my custom chip to get "fixed" again, and the ADS chip was based off the APYN bin. It ran pretty decent on that. Biggest issue I had with it was the chip was set for 22# injectors, and I'm running 24# SVO's, so it loaded up at idle, but the acceleration wasn't bad at all. Of course that's with a MAF system. If you're running SD, there's a lot more tweaking involved to get it running smoothly. P.S. Just noticed your info says 91 Z/28 TPI. If you are running SD, you've got some tuning work ahead of you for sure! On the plus side, most of the self-tuners on here play with SD systems, so at least you'll have plenty of guys that can help you out. 
