Power Door Lock / Latch Restoration
#1
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Power Door Lock / Latch Restoration
For all those that have 'sticky locks'...
Ive seen many say just spray grease all over, but you can barely see or get to the latch when its installed. Once I took a look it wasnt that hard to just remove the latch. You will also want to remove the piece that the lock solenoid moves, just drill out the one rivet.
Heres a before pic, the black grease is really very old and sticky.
Ive seen many say just spray grease all over, but you can barely see or get to the latch when its installed. Once I took a look it wasnt that hard to just remove the latch. You will also want to remove the piece that the lock solenoid moves, just drill out the one rivet.
Heres a before pic, the black grease is really very old and sticky.
#2
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I cleaned it up using Zep 505 degreaser from Home Depot. Sprayed it a bunch then let it take a bath for a while. Worked quite well, heres a pic:
#3
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Then spray white lithium grease from Home Depot all over the moving joints for both pieces.
Reinstall pieces (screw/nut for small piece), and power lock now works great!! Using original solenoids. Only one press required! Door also closes much nicer, always had passenger not completely closing the door but latching... what a pain.. should fix that too. Still have to do drivers side..
Also greased window tracks while I was in there, and door hinges. And used new design 2 rod holder (see other FAQ post on Door Rattles) and lubed those.
Let me know if any questions..
Reinstall pieces (screw/nut for small piece), and power lock now works great!! Using original solenoids. Only one press required! Door also closes much nicer, always had passenger not completely closing the door but latching... what a pain.. should fix that too. Still have to do drivers side..
Also greased window tracks while I was in there, and door hinges. And used new design 2 rod holder (see other FAQ post on Door Rattles) and lubed those.
Let me know if any questions..
#4
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Car: 89' Firebird
Engine: 3.4L V-6
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Whatever came stock!
so, did your locks do what mine did? I press the power door lock button and i hear the solenoids but the lock moves very little and the door is still unlocked. I have to push the lock button maybe 3 - 4 times to get it to lock. Does doing this fix it?
#5
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Originally posted by 1989karr
so, did your locks do what mine did? I press the power door lock button and i hear the solenoids but the lock moves very little and the door is still unlocked. I have to push the lock button maybe 3 - 4 times to get it to lock. Does doing this fix it?
so, did your locks do what mine did? I press the power door lock button and i hear the solenoids but the lock moves very little and the door is still unlocked. I have to push the lock button maybe 3 - 4 times to get it to lock. Does doing this fix it?
WTG, Dig!
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
yep, that's it. does it sound like you are sending morse code?, lol...
alternatively, you can buy new ones from Classic Industries for $205 EACH...
alternatively, you can buy new ones from Classic Industries for $205 EACH...
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Car: 89' Firebird
Engine: 3.4L V-6
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Whatever came stock!
yup....I'm almost positive I was doing S.O.S lol.....but $200+ for new???....hmmm.....I think I'll try this first Thanks for all the tips!
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Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
So i take out the part that hits the big bolt that holds the door shut?
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
yes. there is 3 screws holding in on.
you will also have a bunch of rods connected to it you will need to disconnect (from memory):
outside door lock - a little plastic piece holds it on, it opens on one side, push it the opposite direction, the pull out the rod. hard to describe, but use a flashlight and you will see what i mean.
outside door handle - same as above, or you can just leave this one and move the latch down, its not connected
inside door lock - just unsnap the other end from the door, and bring it out with the latch piece, and remove later
inside door handle - this is the tricky one.... i couldnt figure how to remove from handle side, so i got a little screw driver and was able to bend the little metal piece to let the rod push out. a little tricky.. just have some patience.
you will also have a bunch of rods connected to it you will need to disconnect (from memory):
outside door lock - a little plastic piece holds it on, it opens on one side, push it the opposite direction, the pull out the rod. hard to describe, but use a flashlight and you will see what i mean.
outside door handle - same as above, or you can just leave this one and move the latch down, its not connected
inside door lock - just unsnap the other end from the door, and bring it out with the latch piece, and remove later
inside door handle - this is the tricky one.... i couldnt figure how to remove from handle side, so i got a little screw driver and was able to bend the little metal piece to let the rod push out. a little tricky.. just have some patience.
#10
if you mess up those little clips getting them off the rods,you can thread the rod ends and use little nuts threaded on the end of the rod with a drop of locktight on them to keep them from working their way off.Works great & only takes a few minutes to do.use a tap & die set to thread the rod ends.
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by Drew
Or you can just roll the window down and spray the latch with PB Blaster through the window opening. It really is that easy.
Or you can just roll the window down and spray the latch with PB Blaster through the window opening. It really is that easy.
#14
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Car: 86 TA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Originally posted by firebirdjosh
Except the original grease + years of dirt cover the whole unit so a light coat of PB blasster on top doesn't do anything for half of the cars out there.
Except the original grease + years of dirt cover the whole unit so a light coat of PB blasster on top doesn't do anything for half of the cars out there.
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