firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

THE 6316 IS THE CORRECT PART NUMBER, ALTHOUGH THAT DOESNT MEAN IT IS REALLY WHAT YOU GOT I'VE GOTTEN WRONG PARTS IN THE RIGHT BOX BEFORE.

I WILL GET YOU A PIC OF MY STARTER THIS WEEKEND, I HAVE TO PULL IT TO PUT IN THE TIN BELLHOUSING SHIELD THAT I MANAGED TO LEAVE OUT LAST FALL.

FOR WHAT ITS WORTH THO GEORGE I RAN AN AUTOMATIC STARTER IN A T5 BELL WHEN I ORIGINALLY SWAPPED MY CAR SEVERAL YEARS AGO, IT WAS TIGHT BUT IT FIT. AND IT WORKED.

I REALLY DONT SEE HOW THE FLYWHEEL COULD NOT BE ON ALL THE WAY, ARE THERE ANY SHIMS BETWEEN IT AND THE CRANK? IF SO DITCH THEM.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

whoops didnt mean to yell

Spikeophant

Hey man, nice work on that floor. I've just about finished a similar project on an old Dodge Dart I have. I had 3 foot holes in my floor, and my inner fenders were cracked from the stress, so it was a little more involved, as I had to fix all that stuff, and then I'm starting the trunk once I get the front put back together. Did you seal up your welds with any kind of seam sealer? I notice on some cars that have had this done, there's pinholes in the welded seams that pretty much cause the cancer to come back, but typically some hard 3M seam sealer will fix it right up. I'm getting ready to start a business doing rust repair like this, done a few cars, quarter panel extensions, interior, roof rust holes, etc. It's a right pain in the *** sometimes, specially on exterior body panels.

firebird896

Yea there's no shims there, though it looks like it. It's a hole in the head but it has to be the problem.

Yea The floors weren't too bad considering I used a harbor freight special welder and a donor floor pan that still needed some patch work, I will only do it if I have the right stuff next time

Spikeophant

Yeah, good welders are a must, I did my big welds with a gas welder, and all the spot welds with a nice tig wire feed. Those floors look good though.

firebird896

Thanks I took my time with it , if I didn't it would burn a hole right through the metal, I plan on picking up a small miller welder once I get $1200 to burn. I was satisfied with it but it could've been better.

Since my welder sucks, I will be taking it to a body shop for the quarter panels once it gets running again and I check everything though and make sure that no other problems occur, I know that the oil pump wasn't seeming to be workin while it was running eventhough it didn't run for that long might just need to be run a bit since it was sitting for about 10 yrs

firebird896

Well I talked to a starter guru out by me and he said that the bendix aka the starter gear is the same as most are and that the gear used is never usually different. He said I should check my alignment again and shim the outer bolt so that it gets closer to the flywheel. He said its rare that youd have to shim it that way but my car is a PITA so thats probably it I get back tomorrow and I will be working on fixing the shim problem and hopefully get the engine beating again.

......... Maybe I'll have time to put the trans back in and refill all the fluids for the tranny fluid, brake fluid and engine il that leaked out from not tightning the drain plugs

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

so if i want to do this to a t top car, if i get sfc's and weld them in will that take care of it?

firebird896

I did'nt suport the doors and everthing seems fine. But yea I would say if you got the Sfc's and welded them in it be as the floor was still there

firebird896

Also as an update I got the engine started again, the starter still ground a bit but i think that the battery I have is just losing amps from sitting. I intalled 2 switches, 1 duckbill for the fuel pump and a rocker one for the extra goodies ill eventually do. I still have to set another switch up for the fan and still debating where to put it since I got a bigger one for the amps



Heres the vid, I dont know how to put it up so the player shows here but this is the link to it

firebird896

Ok well the oil pump swap went well, a bit of a pain, but it needed to be done. I should be getting it drivable by the weekend, finally, it going to be nice out and hopefully the brakes won't fail and the trans doesn't fail

firebird896

How does the steering wheel column go in, I cant get it lined up for the life of me, I have tried every angle and direction but still nothing. I had a buddy helping me but it fail, so right now it my only hold back to driving it. That and getting the new brake master cylinder and bleeding the brakes

Anyone??

firebird896

Ok I took the car for a test drive......if thats what you want to call it, I started it up, made sure nothing was dripping under the car, put the clutch in and shifted itinto first. Everything went smoothly till I gave it some gas then It started jerking and it started to get really powerful, it eventually died itself out 20 feet from the driveway. I tried to start it again and nothing happened, I then checked under the car to make sure I didnt see any dripping yet, and sure enough there were 2 spots oil was coming from, ERRRR, so I pushed it back up the driveway and into the garage.

Does anyone know what the jerking was from....no the E-brake was not engaged.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

if that motor has an aggressive cam with a rough idle it will feel jerky if you try and idle along in gear.... really could be many different reasons, can't really diagnose this with jerking as the only detail, need to find out why it died and go from there

firebird896

Im going to back track everything, theres a spot on the intake where the coolants coming from. I will have to put the car back in the air to see where the oilds coming from, probably the oil filter or something. It should be back on the road by thursday because Im going to So Il to a friends house. This thing is pissing me off like crazy, nothings going together without a problem. Next step is either finding the problem or selling the damn thing which wouldnt really be an option because of all the work I put into it

What shall I do with this, its where the coolant is coming out, aand it has been punched in there.

hydrolic144

iTrader: (2)

Hey man hang in there with it. You've come this far so it's only a few more steps. Get that thing on the road!!

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

that really looks like it used to be a sensor or something and someone sawed it off, i see saw marks at least, or file marks..

if it was me i might try an easy out and see if it will unscrew, then find the appropriate size pipe plug for the hole

firebird896

Yea I tried that but it's been punched in there and won't move

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Not sure but just an idea, maybe you can tap threads into it, and thread a pipe plug in the hole?

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

assuming its not brittle that is a viable option, if it is brittle you MAY be able to go at it with a pick and chisel and carefully destroy it and leave the threads intact. i had to do that one of those great pot metal heater hose connectors gm used for a while. problem is your intake is on the engine and you WILL end up with pieces in the hole that you prolly wont get back out and that is bad.

i presume this is in the front water passage?

what do you mean its "punched" in ?

firebird896

Yea it's the front water passage. Punched meaning that some one put a punch between the intake and the fitting and hit it with a hammer so it can come out by turing it, and it's brass so a chisel wouldn't work. The hole is for a heater hose but idk what fiitting would go in there

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

well the original hole should be 1/2in Pipe thread, same as you might find in your house on a faucet connection.

the only things i see working are drilling and tapping for a plug maybe 3/8s pipe thread ? not sure how large the hole in whatever is in the original hole is. again drilling is going to put shavings in the water passage.

or using a large easy out. bear in mind pipe thread is a tapered thread so the farther it is screwed in the tighter it gets and most times will self seal if you get it tight enough.

what that means in this situation is its gonna be a pain to turn it out if its been there for any length of time.

i would attempt the easyout (i realize you have tried but do look around as there are several styles of easy outs and some work better than others given the type of metal they are biting into.

step 2 would be drilling and re tapping to whatever size i could get away with easiest.

NOW the only way I would drill it while the intake is on the motor is if i could pull the thermostat and work a rag or something into the passage so that its under and past the hole to prevent shavings getting into the water jacket. otherwise id pull the intake. its just not worth the hassle of tearing up a water pump or pluggin the radiator with the shavings.

Good Luck

Spikeophant

You could pull the intake and weld it up..

firebird896

Its for a heater hose connection so Ive been searching and I will be ordering one shortly.

Well after working on the body the passed day I got it all done and level except for the QP's of course. I used some nice duplicolor primer and I gotta say I might just leave it like this...lol, Its is now fully drivable

Im still having an issue with the damn starter, Its perfectly shimmed but now when I turn the key all you hear is the clicking from it like the batterys dead (its not I just got a new one again) I'll be checking the wire connections to it to see if theres a short or if something got melted on the exhaust. Everything is tightened up, tranny fluid was leaking from the drain plug (it wasnt tightened all the way...oops) and the oil was coming from the valve covers, I got so excited I forgot to get the extra valve cover screws for the back screws. I still have to bleed the clutch since it feels like a flopy fish so to say.

Pics:

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

if the battery is for sure good, and the starter is for sure good then ya wiring, all it takes is a loose cable connection or a dirty ground, take a good look at the battery cables they often break the insulation at the ends or in tight bends due to dried out insulation from age/heat.. they then corrode from the inside out sort of.

also dont forget you want the heavy ground to run to the engine, there should be a small ground to the body from battery you should also have a ground from engine to body somewhere

as for bleeding the clutch, i would say if it works (allows easy engagement with no grinding) leave it be. they are a ***** to bleed and its easy for air to back feed in and then you gotta start over.

it wasnt a hard or stiff clutch pedal when i had it either, remember its just a stock replacement clutch they are designed with daily driving and comfort in mind. heavy pedals wear out your leg.

firebird896

Well I got it running again, It was just a bad ground, I forgot to put the bigger negative wire from the battery on the engine and I also forgot that I still have to seal that one hole where the brass fitting is.....

firebird896

Ok intake was fixed and I got the timing semi-perfect again. I took it for a drive down the street it handle nice, getting it into 2nd was a b****, had to slam it in place. The brakes need to be rebled also. Everything was perfect untill it died putting it into reverse

firebird896

Carb is giving me issues, Might switch it to TPI till I can get the money for a nicer carb and intake setup

firebird896

Anyone got any ideas on what I should do on thee quarter panels?

patch or replace both?

As far as it being done I just have to tighten down the power steering pump (forgot to do that last time) and I should be able to take a cruise without having any issues, like it dieing out and not wanting to start again, hopefully I fixed that issue since tore everything apart and went through it again

firebird896

Well after a month of not doing anything with it. I finally got up the motivation to go and finish up some simple things. P/s pump is bolted down finally and it starts right up and runs fine. Of course theres still the fan that needs to be wired but for now I just want to get it out and go around the block so I can learn to shift it.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Depends on damage, I would patch if its minor spots.

After doing some fuel problem solving yesterday I realized I might have to patch up some spots on my floors as well, Theres a few spots where I can feel the carpet from underneath. I plan to take out the carpet today and see for myself. Lets see what im dealing with, I can only imagine the horrors I am gonna face.

Keep up the good work!

firebird896

Thanks bud, yea hope its not bad. It will be a pain if it is

firebird896

I'm still here

Well a year and a half after starting this project its still not done, I was optimistic at the beggining of last year, but never could finish since I was so busy with work and school, but since I havent gone back to school for the past semester, and Ive been workin my butt off since then, but in June my life took a turn for the worst and I started smoking, needless to same money went to that, then I bought a crotch rocket, my 98 Trans Am's engine blew. So what I'm going to do since a built Ls2 engine would be $6k I'm going to finish up my project car.

First things first, I need to get the t-top weather stripping from A-1 Auto, then a new top brace. After that is done I'll work my way to back under the car to do the brakes line t-connector on the rear axle, putting a sensor gauge on the trans since its mechanical and my gauges are electrical, then after a long overdue time off to the shop to make sure everythings ok.

chevman24

iTrader: (1)

Damn thats a long story. Sounds like you did way too many things more than once. Thats how it goes during the learning process. THe main thing is to slow down and not hurry through things. Good Luck with finishing your project!!

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

wow just read this whole thing i feel your pain ive had to do things many times when learning it gets very frustrating. just a thought if you have starter issues again it could be a cracked starter mounting hole on the block it causes the started to move i had/have the same problem on my k10 and im limping it by only driving it when needed until i get my trans am out of the garage so i can pull the motor from the truck again to fix it right here are some pics of what im talking about.

firebird896

Last night I purchased the t-top weather-stripping kit from 1A Auto, and the speed sensor from speed hut, it set me back $303.80 but its was well worth it because I need to get this almost 2 year project done. When the goods come it, I have to un bury the car from all the stuff thats on it and drop it off at the shop to check everything over, told you I'd be done by spring, I just didn't say which year

89Camaro89MI

iTrader: (2)

Just read through the whole thread. Nice work, dude, you've got yourself quite a pair to stick with it.

Thanks for the floor pan fix pics. I'll be using them for reference when I do pans on an IROC I'm buying this week.

Stick with it and finish this beast.

Camaro-454

iTrader: (1)

Great thread bro. I've enjoyed your progress and your tenacity. Good work, good job, good determination. The work you did on your floors was awsome.

I just brought a White 87 Iroc-Z with a 305 TPI. The drivers side floor was done in a mickey mouse way by the previous owner of the guy I brought my car from, ( the guy just screwed the sheet metal patch with some screws in the floor ), so I need to address that situation as soon as possible.

I've never welded, and I'm not taking a course on doing so presently, but my brother in law does so I'll be getting him to help me on that, so I guess I'll learn by doing too. Thanks for all the great pics of your progress. I learned a lot just from following your posts and the pictures are a great help as well as lots of motivation.

Keep up the good work and hang in there. Sorry about your fire, but I'm glad that it wasn't too bad and that you didn't let that stop you. Sorry that you blew your engine too, but as we all know that can and does happen sometimes, but don't let that stop you either. You still have two cars that some people would kill die for, And, you still own two cars that will beat a Porche. ( just get another engine, or rebuild the one you have ).

Again, great job on you restoration projects, and best wishes on your results. Keep up the great work, and post more pics. We got your back bro.

Camaro-454

pleiku10

I recently bought am 87 IROC for my son. I have 6 70's camaros and am disillusioned by the lack of repair panels for the 3rd Gen cars!! Non existent and overpriced. For sure this will be the last one I do-all you need for a 70's car is the VIN tag!!!

firebird896

Yes they are expensive, but nice donor cars are cheaper if you find a nice one

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

GIve it 10years lol

firebird896

Well sorry for the lack of updates. I've been finishing my 98 T/A engine swap and its been draining ever cent outta me, but its finally almost done after sitting for 7 months, I have to drop the trans and change out flywheels along with a new shifter cable that I broke when pulling the engine. After that is a base tune and back onto the road

Once thats done, I will move back to this project which is very close to the 2 year mark, I never thought it would take this long or that my engine would blow in my 98.

The only thing left to do it the BRAKES which I keep putting off, installing the weather stripping thats been sitting in the box ( NEW ) for 2 months now, reconnecting the coolant temp sensor since I finally found a pic of it on here and then the quarter panels, I have everything needed to finish this but the car is buried under a mountain of excess stuff that was in the way of getting my 98 in the garage

Just another month or two it should be back on the road, I hope I don't eat my words by that time

firebird896

So I'm back on track with the project I finally have gotten my 4th situated on what I want to do, so on to finish this 2 1/2 yr project, after the holiday Im going to get the brake lines in since all the christmas crap is surrounding the car in the garage at the moment. I have been searching around and finally found where I could get some cheap sheet metal for the quarter panels. And I have a newer t-top bar that I have to put the new weatherstripping from 1A Auto.

Stay tuned

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

Nice to see you back at it! Keep us posted

firebird896

I started it for the first time in 6 months yesterday, still sounds beast, gotta fix the garage door to get in my garage now

firebird896

Well I have another problem I had the battery on a tender since I didnt start it for atleast 6 months, 2 days later....today after taking it off it didn't start, I started seeing smoke near the battery, I turns out it was from the plastic by the terminals melting when I turned the key. I thought I ridded this problem when I hooked up the negative cable to the block?

Any Ideas comments would help, I have all winter to find/fix the problem, and do the rear brake lines......(huge procrastinator here), I really want these problems to go away so I can get to finishing the interior (5 point) stereo and or nos panel

silentkillzr

iTrader: (2)

Awesome build man, true dedication to replace floor pans!, i threw away cars with floorpans like yours. I keep mine clean. and prepped and painted it all, patched the holes. Good job bro

firebird896

thanks, I love positive responses from people, there very motivational, I just need to save some money so I can get the simple thing that are left

blakbird89

I know it's been a while, but have you made any more progress? This thread gives me motivation bro, my floors are just like yours were in the beginning and I'm at that hard spot where nothing seems to be coming together!

Kingsobieski

Your battery needs to be grounded at the fender, the frame, and the engine block. Sand all the ground points before bolting down the cables. Get new cables if you aren't sure about the quality of yours, they're only like $10 anyways - they can corrode on the inside underneath the insulation and cause starting/charging problems or melting cables.....