tealcamaromanrs

well i am sure there is some info about this somewhere but i did some checkin around and couldent find nothin soooo heres the deal....it doesnt seem like my passenger door is shuttin completly. i would like to know if i could adjust the striker pin so the door would close just a little tighter???

tealcamaromanrs

help??

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Yes simply loosen the striker and move it inward. Make sure to keep it aligned with the latch.

tealcamaromanrs

really thats it...lol , thanks i will give it a try tomorrow thanks

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Yep. its painless. You need a 50 or 55 torx bit to loosen it. Good luck

tealcamaromanrs

well i tried that but the hole in the door were the door pin bolts to is not big enough for the pin to move in any direction????do i have to drill that hole out bigger??i really dont wanna be drillin my car

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Your adjusting the wrong piece. I think your adjusting the door latch and you should be adjusting the striker, which is located in the jam of the car. Big steel pin with a torx in it. Its attached to the quarter panel. Let me know if that helps

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't be surprised if you have the common hinge sagging problem. Our doors are very heavy & the years take their toll on the hinges.

Can you slam the door & it'll shut & latch good? Will it'll only not line up good (shut good), when you shut it gently?

pgtr

I searched and found this thread - my passenger door closes slightly too far INBOARD on the rear edge - e.g. it would seem the striker pin is too far inboard by about a 1/4"+ or so. Moving it outwards away from the center of the car would seem in theory to get the door to align perfectly...

So after reading this thread - I too tried the Torx (T-45 I think) loosening and repositioning.

I agree with the original poster - my striker pin does NOT adjust either - it goes right back into the same original adjustment. Oh I might get it to re-set the tiniest fraction but nowhere near a 1/4". Further searching show other threads where members posted they really weren't adjustable or only had very minimal adjustment.

QUESTION: Seems odd that the passenger door rear edge is sitting too deep in the door frame. Is it possible the original striker pins had some sort of nylon coating that made them thicker?

[And no the door is not sagging - door lines up nicely across the bottom and the leading edge with the front fender. Nor do I see/feel any movement in the hinges/pins with someone living door at rear. Besides I don't see how warn hinge pins would cause the door to close too far inside the door frame at the REAR]

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Can you adjust the latch instead of the striker? My car isn't here right now, so I can't go look at mine to see.

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

The latch doesnt adjust on my gta. If its closing to far inboard check to see if the 2 rubber stops are attached to your door if not you need to install them

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Not to sure why you guys are having problems with the striker adjustment. Have adjusted hundreds of these over the years. Just walked to the shop and loosened the strikers on both the birds. I have at least a 1/2" up and down adjustment and 1/2" in and out adjustment. Im guessing yours are rusted and not moving. Its a rectangle steel plate thats on slides inside the quarter. Loosen striker and hit with hammer to break it loose. Hope this helps.

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Also if your not getting enough adjustment take striker completely out and you can elongate the hole for more adjustment.

pgtr

Thanks for the replies. No rust - very clean/pristine. They 'loosen' up nicely but the hole in the door frame is just barely large enough for the threaded portion of the pin. What will have to be done is after removing the pin completely along with the threded backing plate - is to enlarge the hole but I recommend only enlarging it in the direction needed for movement. I plan to use a small moto-tool with a small grinding attachment for this purpose. I think the air vent above the striker should hopefully allow access to the backing plate.

My only explanation is that perhaps not all 3rd gens are created equal in this regard. Perhaps year of manufacture, factory, even shift, etc explains why some are adjustable and others are not. Mine happens to be an '84 assembled in Van Nuys.

kmdracer

Pgtr,
I don't mean to sound like a butthead, but are you sure that your rear quarters aren't built up with bondo? That to me would be a quick reason the rear of your pass door is further "in" than the quarter. I'm not an expert on third gens, but I do own one (along with a 4th gen) and it seems to me that anything you do to move the back of your door out 1/4" is going to cause wind noise around your window, if not water leakage. I don't have a torx that big or I'd run out and see if the striker pins on either of my cars are adjustable.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

There's no need to remove anything other than the striker bolt to adjust the bolt hole. The bracket "nut" is far enough inside the door that it won't be affected. My driver's side door needed adjustment like this and I just removed the bolt and ground out the outside of the hole a little.

The same can be done for the hatch hinges as well, as opposed to removing the deck lid from the glass . Strangely enough, 2 of the 4 holes are already adjustable (the inner ones) with square holes while the others are merely big enough for the hinge bolts (the outers).