My car had SFC's and all kinds of mods when I had it inspected (not OOP, but still)... A petro Canada station on northland drive cleared me. Funny you mentioned shaganappi chev olds - I know a guy who works there. Darcy White. He sold me my car... I had the lunati voodoo 60103. Worked good...until I wiped 4 lobes off it Got a comp xe268h and that worked great until I needed more. It's still collecting dust now in my garage. I replaced all the bearings in the rear end, so I don't think that's the problem. But I will check that. I think i'll lower the rear end and pop off the cover and check it over pretty thoroughly... Ryan - I'll put the word out and see if I know anyone...

I've got a pair of 28 spline 3rd 10bolt axles here if you need a pair, Atleast i think i brought them with me, If you need them let me kno and i'll pull them out for you. I may also have a set of 26 spline axles kicking around if it's a pre 87 10 bolt.


And heres a few more pics of my car about 3 yrs old but the paint isn't as nice anymore.

Why were you getting it inspected?

When I first bought it a few years ago, I had to have it inspected to get it insured.

Cool. You had me worried about an unknown Alberta interval inspection. With the changes I will be doing this summer, mine won't be passing as stock any longer.

Car has already been Alberta inspected when I came to the province, so should be good to go.

newer in province vehicles ussually don't need an inspection.

Older in province depending on the insurance companies need inspection. I have signed off on my own vehicles using my heavy duty ticket, but I do all the work on my cars and make sure they are in tip top shape. I amlsot got my ticket yanked helping some one out with a used car they bought and it was a pile of crap that should have never seen the road.

All out of province vehicles need inspection.

Well i got an inspection for it today, found an awsome guy who knows his ****. Took about 1hr 45min and she didn't need a damn thing. So now she is Alberta plated i'm looking for a nice set of wheels for a 3rd gen , but i would preffer some nice GOLD GTA wheels.

Grats on the inspection. Maybe I will see her at the Track in the Hat sometime.

Work in progress.

Bottom end and heads together, little mock up of the intake.

Sexay!! What's inside? I just finished tapping some 062s for screw-ins in preperation for my build. but even when its done it wont look that ^ shiny

-Z

oman I am drooling over that engine. How much those heads set ya back?

@ Zander did you get the machine shop to do those screw in studs?

I am thinking of doing the same to those 906ers I bought off of ya. I'd like to do it myself I figure I can think something out but hey if someone has already done it I am all ears.....

D&W machine quoted me $300 to pull the old studs and install screw-ins. Which i think we can all agree is something like highway robbery. So i built my own fixture to guide the tap and apply a consistant pressure. Way more effective than the silly tool that Proform/summit sells. It took me 4 hours to do a set of heads, but the results are perfect! I built the device out of an old/busted drill press i had lying around and a bunch or tubular steel stock.

-Z

nice head choice...i had to get a set of those too, I love the 3 pc timing cover. Sorry im a bit of a picture whore

Couple pics of the inside.

Stock crank and rods with ARP bolts, H601P hyper pistons to give 10.23 compression. Was machined and balanced previously by DMS. (bought short block used) New rings and bearings just installed with a fresh crosshatch.



Studded mains with a little oil windage help..


I got the heads out of the US a while back from White Performance. Price was just over $800 at the time, with our dollar being at 103 US when I purchased them. 2.05 intake with 1.60 exhaust and were CNC bowl blended. I have cleaned them up a little further as well. Seem to be a good deal when you can't afford AFRs. (maybe next time)

Redchicken, where did you pick up yours?

i picked mine up at allied in brooks for $1000, there 64cc , 2.02/1.60, and were 195, they are cleaned up a little more now. I changed the studs and guides over to comp equipment. The 355 has a scat 3.48 crank, worked over factory rods, .30 trw 7009P pistons, calculated static 11.97 compression all with arp hardware. I have a vic jr intake that i had profiled for my dart heads, but should still be ok for the new patriots. Im going to top it off with an 850 holley, and picked out a lunati voodoo 60105 cam (best buy the only place to get lunati stuff in calgary now) I still have some work i want to do to it, but i have twins on the way now so the fire chicken came to a screeching halt...lol

Right on, I was thinking of making something myself it would not be too hard. The trick is to pull the studs then machine a guide to fit in the hole which I would use to aling A a drill press of a mag base drill, after drilling take the drill out and install a center with a 45 deg point put ur tap in the hole and start tapping while applying pressure thru the divot at the top of the tap and your center which will hold everything square. Of course the drill is not working your just using it to center your tap out and keep it square. I fix tons of hole in the big engines. I'll have to get the heads on a bench and look at em some more I could possible make a guide as well. meh wtf I have all the tools at my disposal including a lathe at work which I love dicking around with

goddamn I love shiney rebuilt engines....gotta love it after rebuild a big one and getting em shiney like that one

Pulling the studs is the easiest part, do you still have the rocker pivot balls i gave ya? just stack 3 pivot balls on a stud, take a nut off one of your rods (i assume you're going to replace them anywayz before you put the rods into service) and crank the nut down until you reach the bottom of the stud's threads. Remove the nut, add another pivot ball to the stack (now 4 total) and crank the nuts down, repeat one last time and the stud will fall out. It so happens that no machining of the stud hole is necessary, i measured the diameter of the holes (after the stud has been removed) to be 0.3698", The reccomended hole diameter for a 3/8-16 tap is .3680" (a U drill bit) thats a damn stroke of luck!

-Z

I got a slide hammer puller with different threaded inserts for pulling dowels that would problably work good. Kind of handy having the service truck home every night since I work on engines everyday most of the tools I need are in it

U going to be a busy boy! From race fuel to ... well you'll see. Either way your up to your elbows in it

Baby seats fit well in the back of these cars, mine had them too (not two) in the earlier years. Good luck, hope all goes well.

Hell when I got my car 2 years ago i let my boys 5 and 6 drive it around in the alleyways in back of my house, then on the week ends I'd load up all three kids and shoot off to edmonton god they love that car espacially my little daughter.........

We already have a 2 year old son, so we thought he was about the right age for a sibling, little did we know what the ultra sound would say. Funny part is i just bought a new limited explorer (i know its a ford....) in January, have to get rid of it now, only put 2000kms on it and we lost 10k already, this economy slump isn't workin for me

I tried to talk the wife into baby seats in the fire chicken after our son was born, you can all guess what she said, but i got carried away and mini tub'd it anyways, have to look for a boat to haul the kids around now......oh no the dreaded mini van!

Well yesterday I placed an order for a bunch of Hayley Cabinets made here in Calgary. All metal powder coated. The base cabinets will make up a bench 14.2 ft long. It will include tool drowers etc Its also 2 feet wide. then I will have 3 upper cabs 34 inches long 14 deep and 24 high. plenty of storage and work area, The work surface is 12 gauge galvenised metal. So this will be my work area. I started painting the walls in the garage last night.

When its done I will have a nice clean shop to do projects with my kids, repair my vehicles and work on my hobby which is my Camaro.

This will be my ultimate play room. I installed a heater in there that at 3 deg I crank it to 25 and its stinking hot in there in 15 mintues.

Now I gotta shop around for air compressor and some welders

Sounds like that Man Cave is coming along nice!!

What heater did you go with?

Check Costco for an Air Compressor, I picked up a vertical one for a great deal.

LOL man cave I see that a lot on this garage forum I belong to.

I'll check out costco I've checked out a few other places and got my eye on a couple of 60 gallon vertical units 240 v

I went with the reznor 65000 btu unit and the fan puts out 760 cfm, it will hit the wall across the room and deflect the hot air every where there is not one cold spot in that garage. When I work under a car I adjust the louvers and it shoots at the floor which deflects the hot air to where I am working.

hey guys I know a fellow that is selling a 350. He's got it set up for TBI. I am thinking this sucker can run a carb easy with that eddlebrock performer intake.

He had it built by DW custom engine and they went all out on it.

It has 10.5 to 1 comoression one piece rear main seal. Stellite seats and valves. Heads are out of a 5 ton truck. Its also got hedman headers and a bunch of stuff. It came out of a truck non roller block. Its pushing 300 hp but I think the stock TBI is restricting the hp.

Also he has the ecm with the chip burned for that set up. He mentioned just the dyno tuning alone was 1800 bucks. I dunno he really wants to sell to me and see me put it in my car. I still have to decide and I know and trust this guy.

If anybody else is interested give me a pm.

BTW been enjoying driving tonight car is running awsome did a little tweaking on it and tommorow will check some stuff

this is what I was doing last week near medicine hat, crank weighs around 3200 pound, cylinders 350 pounds, lower rod and piston 140 pounds and upper piston and rod 120 pounds. We removed one of the two cranks in the engine to change the liners and pistons. Main bearings journals are 9.000 inches.

some more engine and then upper crankcase. Its a 10 cylinder oppsed piston engine spark gas running a supercharger and a turbo. that one is 3000 hp. main bearings are rated 200 000 plus hours

Reminds me of and Encana site on the block i was at once (D station i think), but i was working on a GSI next door, Those are the weirdest liners i have every seen, but cool to see them apart

no wait, maybe it was C station, hard too remember, that was a couple of years ago now, glad to get out of the desert, its depressing down there. You can watch your dog run away for 3 days....lol

its a two stroke engine intake ports at the top and exhaust ports at the bottom combustion occurs in the middle when pistons are inner dead center. the liner has a water jacket. no water passes thru the block all thru headers the liners and the exhaust manifolds so you have a "dry block" which can last forever. In fact that block in the picture may have been a 50's locomotive block before it got converted to spark gas

I wish i could say the same for the waukesha's we have. As fun as it working for collicut's, i sure don't miss the hours....operations is a little on the slower side but at least get to go home after work...lol....only the mechanics that have been, or are still in the industry can chuckle over that one.

I know this should probably be in a different section, but i thought i would have better luck here.

Well, i hate to say this but the firebird has to go. Anyone interested in a roller, i just traded my s.b. for a 70 chevelle last night and i'm going to pick it up next Friday. So needless to say i just need it gone. I looks like an 82-84 now, the mini tub is complete, just needs finishing work on the new door handles, and hood, or i still have the stocker too. New t-tops seals, 4.56's are still pretty fresh, srpings and sway bars and wonderbar from an IROC (not installed yet), changed the pickup in the tank, comes with the racing seat, harness, two fierro seats, grey and red interior, 2 T-5's, one flywheel/clutch/pressure plate, (sold the bell housing with the 355), and anything else thats in the garage that belongs to it. The down side is i needs to be re-certified as it has a salvage title, but there's no body damage on the car, besides the dent thats in the drivers front fender (not related), i will take the roll cage out of my other car also for anyone thats interested, plus i have a couple of 3rd gen camaros that anyone could rob what they need off those too. Anyone want this thing come and get it, $650obo and its yours. I have pics on my cardomain site if anyone wants to see the work done thus far. I would love to have it off to a new home before next friday!!! Will take trades on anything that could be used for the chevelle, like corvette ralleys, bbc parts, need a hood for the chevelle, etc. My number is 403-899-5184
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3193710

Aaron

Hey Aaron sorry to hear bout you selling your firebird but hey a chevelle that should ease the pain. I am gonna give you a call this week and hopefully I can swing by to see you for some parts

heres my garage still in the the process of finishing up but my cabinets are done03-05-09_2033.jpg

03-05-09_2029.jpg

03-05-09_2027.jpg

Problably start working on the car once I get a kick a$$ air compressor this summer. I kind of like using air tools makes like easier.

how much???

how much what?

hey I saw your car over at errols the other day that eddlebrock engine looks pretty sharp

sorry meant to pm somone but must of posted it by accident

Aaron those parts worked good.

It was nice to meet you and thanks for your help.

jason

guys what do you think of this one

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html

Also want to know peoples experiences with rust bullet.
IE is it possible to use other types of top coats and such on it?

thanks

jason

Rust bullet, It kills rust DEAD! But seriously, i love the stuff. It can be applied to almost any metal surface with any level of preparation (obviously the better the prep the better the longevity) and once cured is rock solid! I can be top coated with any composition of automotive paint (i like to use a 2-part polyurethane) or it can be left uncoated as it is not UV sensitive.

-Zander

Cool I have been reading some threads using the search and everybody concurs its awsome stuff. I fully intend on doing surface prep. I am planning to get some spray painting equipmet from princess auto to apply this stuff on. And also thinking of that top coat as well.

Is there any way to get this stuff inside the rocker panels?

Thanks for the comment its good to see other peoples experiences with aftermarket products

jay

I looked around for an undercoating setup that would allow me to spray rust bullet inside frame rails, unfortunately i didnt find anything satisfactory.

If your interested i'm in the middle (alright, maybe 1/3 into) a complete frame-off restoration of a 93 GMC sonoma mini-truck. This weekend i'll be blasting/boxing the frame and eventually intend to spray the entire frame along with the undersides of the cab and box with 3 coats of Rust Bullet Automotive.

-Zander

damn I'd love to see that, I gotta head to Seattle tommorrow for work for the next couple of weeks.

One thought I had was using my Cat varosol gun which atomises varosol into a fine mist. I know it will spray 40 weight engine oil into a mist. The rod is 2 feet long and can stick it into a 3/4 hole. I may have a go with some tremclad at work to see how well it sprays as it is pretty heavy stuff.

What type of sand blaster are you using? I was thinking of getting the 5 gallon jobby from princess auto.

I may post some pics up on the cylinder heads I have to work on in Seattle they weigh about 1500 pounds each and there is one per cylinder......

Quite honestly, in order to coat the inside of the Sonoma's frame rails i plan to thin down a whole lot of tremclad (hey, it's cheap) and pour into the frame, agitate and rotate the entire rig. finally pour out the excess.

As far as sand blasting is concerned i have neither a large enough compressor (all i have is a 15gallon 3hp unit) nor the work space to have my own sand blating setup. Fortunately there is a business down in the south called Consolidate Compressor where i can blast anything i want for $100/Hour.

-Zander

Hey Zander,

My trip to the states got cancelled. I will be around a bit, I'd like to see some of that restoration of yours and have a look at that rust bullet after its been applied...........

Z

how much of that rust bullet should I order do do the underneath of my car and paint a differential I am building?

You will require approx 600ml of rust bullet per coat (two coats minimum is recommended).

-Z

How was it to spray on?

I been reading about it and am pretty stoked on using this stuff.

Did you ever end up using it inside the frame rails of the truck you were working on or did you go with the tremclad like you had mentioned?

I got the air compressor I wanted a few weeks ago and got my sand blasting gun working and just need a paint gun now............

I thinned it 2-5% with MEK and sprayed it through a 1.7 fluid tip, went on fairly easy.

-Z

I got an engine hoist today.

So I can do some engine swaps. anyways I can do work in my garage for paying people.

It got to a point with friends asking me to work on thier cars and saying they would pay that I decided to try it.

jay