Car AudioCar audio related questions and helpful hints for building the best sound system for your car or getting the most out of what you have.
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if you look at the first page you'll see a pic of my old box and see the awesome tiger or whatevr carpet it was. this is the new box and amp cover that took its place. all built by me
Looks like something I designed and built 5 years ago when I bought my Iroc...only difference is I mounted my amp in the cover.
Ryan
Quote:
Originally posted by deadbird 1 - 10" Polk GNX... loud enough for my preference (I've grown out of annoying others 5 blocks away) and nothing special but, has the home stereo bass warmth I like and doesn't occupy alot of space...
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My Rides:
---> 89 IROCZ28, 350 TPI, 700R4, 2.77 gears, Alston SFC's, TDS Wonderbar, Hotchkis STB, Spohn LCA's & Panhard Bar, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster Coil, Bosch Platinum Plugs, MSD 8.5mm Wires, Fresh Cap and Rotor, gutted air boxes, Custom Cat back, 80 series Flowmaster, 18" Angle cut exhaust tips, McEwen White Faced Gauges, Clarion Head, Planet Audio Components, Orion 400 Watt amp, 10" Alumapro sub in sealed box.
New Item - Series 3 carrier and 3.27 9-bolt gears waiting for install.
STILL on the garage floor waiting to be installed...Edelbrock crome plated TES headers.
---> 01 Chevy Silverado, Black, LS, 5.3L V8, 4 speed auto, 3.23 gears, 2 Chamber Flowmaster, Jensen 9411 Flip-Up HU/DVD player, Focal 6.5" Component set, Kicker L7 in custom center console with integrated iPod mount, Kicker 550.3 - 3 Channel Amp, Tonneau cover, single cab, step side bed.
Last edited by IROC350TPI; 03-12-2005 at 03:24 AM.
This is the set-up I did not too long ago. It took quite some time to build the box, all of you would know how that goes. A lot of measuring and cutting - measure twice, cut once. But in the end, im very pleased with what I was able to create. To see the box as it was in the process, just go to www.cardomain.com/id/resilient and go to page 6.
fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
that's funny ryan, because almost everyone I've ever known who's ported a box, (either afterthought, or from initial design,) has ended up plugging those suckers up... almost always sounds cleaner as a sealed box...
>1986 Trans Am - 305 LG4 - 700R4 - Electric cutout - no cat - 180* 'stat - Manual fan switch - Open element - Trans cooler - Crane 1.6 rockers - Comp 981 valvesprings My Cardomain page / My other cardomain page for my 87 v6
Originally posted by ScrapMaker fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
First of all, thanks for the compliments!
It is an actual box-design program. It's called Rhinocerous. There's like 10 different box-design programs out there.
It's kind of hard to tell because the the is completely "see thru", but the two lines you see, towards the port, are actually pieces of MDF. They're completely their own chambers, aside from the opening, to let the "bass flow". The box is tuned to 35 hz.
Right now I have a pre-fab f-body box running 2 12" eclipses, which are seeing ~150w/sub. Nothing special. But the box takes up entirely too much room. This box right here will only take up about half of the available trunk space. Allowing me to still use some of that space, AND have access to the spare tire w/o having to pull my entire box out.
There will be 1 10" Rockford Power T1 in the box. It will be getting around 600-800w. I might set the gain for the amp a little bit low... depending on how loud it is. I have a 1200w Kenwood eXcelon amp lying around, and I don't want to use all it's power (it runs at about 850w RMS)
I have some kenwood excelon 6x9's in the sails, running off an amp ~110w/speaker and I will be putting in my Rockford 4" components in the front ~70w/comp. So it should be a nice mix of sound.
does that program actually take into account speaker specifications, and actual box design/porting to tell you what it would be tuned at, and what kind of spl and such you should expect?
Just a single 12", nothing too major. It thumps enough for me.
Dont mind those white streaks. It was snowing lightly when I took the picture. But the carpet matches pretty good, eh?
And if you compare those pics with the one I put in my other Bird, you'll see there's a pretty big difference.
that's got to be the cleanest damn install, that I've ever seen!
did you build the box, then attach some larger MDF to the top of it, then cut the woofer holes through the two different pieces of mdf? so that larger piece of wood can hold the amps and such... then you put carpet over the hole thing, and screwed in the woofers?
I'd love to do that with my 15's, but you have to raise the surface of the box higher, because they won't fit if the box only came up to deck heighth like yours.
I wanted to make sure the well remained available if I every needed to put a flat tire back there (that is what the well is for, after all). I also wanted to keep the subs stealth. As for the amp, I pulled out the glove box and used that space in the wheel well behind the rear driver's tire to mount it in a hidden location.
I'm a bit disappointed in the sound though... part of the sound wave goes forward and part of it goes back, reflects off the well, and then comes forward and interferes w/ the front part of the wave. I plan on making a downfiring box so all the bass goes towards the well and reflects forward -- that should help eliminate interference.
that makes me wonder..what i could do with my fiberglassing project... that would make my subs hit harder.... i wonder if i could mount the subs in the middle of the box facin rearward
__________________ -Alex
"It's a Chevy... If it ain't smokin, you're walkin." ----------- My Cardomain site
try this... make a box that takes up the entire well... and two rear-firing subs... and leave enough room for the sound to escape near the latch mechinism... a 'port' if you will... but it does not have to meet any port specifications... just so the sound can escape...
damn.. that means i cant incorporate that into me current project... which ill be glad to be done with.. the ordeal will unfold as i finish... but ill prolly end up making another better quality box because this one is heading south fast...
__________________ -Alex
"It's a Chevy... If it ain't smokin, you're walkin." ----------- My Cardomain site
I have a 'SECURITY' laser that actually goes to my car alarm.
it is basically a "laser projector" and it projects the word 'SECURITY' on any surface... kinda cool... I'm too lazy to install it, and I don't know where it would look good... maybe if I made a custom box I could install it to shine on my hatch window or something...
and of course I'll have my (smart) stereo controller, plus my V.C.C. (Vehicle Control Computer) -- which will control all my LED panels, windows and locks, and if I get really crazy... door poppers... since my windows are already automated, that will be a snap...
the biggest hurdle I'm working with now is building the actual LED panels... for the taillights, I will actually have to BREAK the tails apart to put the panels inside... unless someone knows how to open them up?
I've already made the 3rd-stop light into LED... I like it... and I've already made the front clear LED turn signals... but I've run into resistance problems with the turn signal timer... can I just SHORT the turn signal mechanism, and put my own turn-signal-timer on my own boards?
first I'm gonna finish up my laser-lighted, robotic, barking, strobing, blinking, beeping, shining awesome subwoofer box... as I'm sure Saigon Bob would love to see...
I'm going for a stealth dual 15" install. Some say IT CAN'T BE DONE
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