Let's see your custom speaker boxes!
#156
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS AKA Big Nasty
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Sorry bro..
nice idea but i think the register vents have to go.
nice idea but i think the register vents have to go.
#157
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Car: 91 Formula350 clone
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
Sorry bro..
nice idea but i think the register vents have to go.
Sorry bro..
nice idea but i think the register vents have to go.
They are needed for cooling, there are 2 fans in each side.. I know they are not attractive but I wanted to hide the fans.
#158
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if you look at the first page you'll see a pic of my old box and see the awesome tiger or whatevr carpet it was. this is the new box and amp cover that took its place. all built by me
#161
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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sometimes I wish that my box didn't take up the ENTIRE well and go all the way up to the rear seats... oh well...
#163
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Car: 89 IROCZ28
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Axle/Gears: 2.77 Gears
Looks like something I designed and built 5 years ago when I bought my Iroc...only difference is I mounted my amp in the cover.
Ryan
Ryan
Originally posted by deadbird
1 - 10" Polk GNX... loud enough for my preference (I've grown out of annoying others 5 blocks away) and nothing special but, has the home stereo bass warmth I like and doesn't occupy alot of space...
1 - 10" Polk GNX... loud enough for my preference (I've grown out of annoying others 5 blocks away) and nothing special but, has the home stereo bass warmth I like and doesn't occupy alot of space...
Last edited by IROC350TPI; 03-12-2005 at 02:24 AM.
#164
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Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
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Here's my current set up... Just ordered a 10" Rockford Power T1, so it's going to be changing in about a week or so...
#165
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Car: 94 Camaro Z28
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This is the set-up I did not too long ago. It took quite some time to build the box, all of you would know how that goes. A lot of measuring and cutting - measure twice, cut once. But in the end, im very pleased with what I was able to create. To see the box as it was in the process, just go to www.cardomain.com/id/resilient and go to page 6.
#167
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
#168
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most of you have seen mine, but heres a pic anyway so show what it looks like for those who havnt.
i recently sealed up the ports for better sound purposes.
i recently sealed up the ports for better sound purposes.
#169
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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that's funny ryan, because almost everyone I've ever known who's ported a box, (either afterthought, or from initial design,) has ended up plugging those suckers up... almost always sounds cleaner as a sealed box...
#172
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Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: TBI 5.7L v8
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Originally posted by ScrapMaker
fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?
the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.
All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.
what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?
It is an actual box-design program. It's called Rhinocerous. There's like 10 different box-design programs out there.
It's kind of hard to tell because the the is completely "see thru", but the two lines you see, towards the port, are actually pieces of MDF. They're completely their own chambers, aside from the opening, to let the "bass flow". The box is tuned to 35 hz.
Right now I have a pre-fab f-body box running 2 12" eclipses, which are seeing ~150w/sub. Nothing special. But the box takes up entirely too much room. This box right here will only take up about half of the available trunk space. Allowing me to still use some of that space, AND have access to the spare tire w/o having to pull my entire box out.
There will be 1 10" Rockford Power T1 in the box. It will be getting around 600-800w. I might set the gain for the amp a little bit low... depending on how loud it is. I have a 1200w Kenwood eXcelon amp lying around, and I don't want to use all it's power (it runs at about 850w RMS)
I have some kenwood excelon 6x9's in the sails, running off an amp ~110w/speaker and I will be putting in my Rockford 4" components in the front ~70w/comp. So it should be a nice mix of sound.
#173
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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does that program actually take into account speaker specifications, and actual box design/porting to tell you what it would be tuned at, and what kind of spl and such you should expect?
kinda like desktop dyno for subwoofers! hehe
kinda like desktop dyno for subwoofers! hehe
#174
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Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by 305q_ta86
I like to keep my crap simple.
Even the amp is hidden underneath.
I like to keep my crap simple.
Even the amp is hidden underneath.
#175
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Sure!
Just a single 12", nothing too major. It thumps enough for me.
Dont mind those white streaks. It was snowing lightly when I took the picture. But the carpet matches pretty good, eh?
And if you compare those pics with the one I put in my other Bird, you'll see there's a pretty big difference.
Just a single 12", nothing too major. It thumps enough for me.
Dont mind those white streaks. It was snowing lightly when I took the picture. But the carpet matches pretty good, eh?
And if you compare those pics with the one I put in my other Bird, you'll see there's a pretty big difference.
#176
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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yup what is that a lightning audio amp? I saw one of those at a fleamarket a year or so ago.
nice red carpet setup though. snow sucks.
nice red carpet setup though. snow sucks.
#177
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
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Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Lol no it's a 'MA audio' amp. 400w x 2. Got it for $150 CAD at a place called XS cargo. lol.
#178
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you actually bought car audio from XS CARGO?????
ugh!
well it is cheap... just curious, is MA audio a real brand? not like RockBox or something cheesy? Does it sound alright?
ugh!
well it is cheap... just curious, is MA audio a real brand? not like RockBox or something cheesy? Does it sound alright?
#182
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by nick418
heres my setup
heres my setup
did you build the box, then attach some larger MDF to the top of it, then cut the woofer holes through the two different pieces of mdf? so that larger piece of wood can hold the amps and such... then you put carpet over the hole thing, and screwed in the woofers?
I'd love to do that with my 15's, but you have to raise the surface of the box higher, because they won't fit if the box only came up to deck heighth like yours.
excellent design, whoever came up with it...
#185
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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how does that work? does it automatically cover everything when you close the hatch, or does it hook onto something when you unroll it?
#188
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Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I wanted to make sure the well remained available if I every needed to put a flat tire back there (that is what the well is for, after all). I also wanted to keep the subs stealth. As for the amp, I pulled out the glove box and used that space in the wheel well behind the rear driver's tire to mount it in a hidden location.
I'm a bit disappointed in the sound though... part of the sound wave goes forward and part of it goes back, reflects off the well, and then comes forward and interferes w/ the front part of the wave. I plan on making a downfiring box so all the bass goes towards the well and reflects forward -- that should help eliminate interference.
I'm a bit disappointed in the sound though... part of the sound wave goes forward and part of it goes back, reflects off the well, and then comes forward and interferes w/ the front part of the wave. I plan on making a downfiring box so all the bass goes towards the well and reflects forward -- that should help eliminate interference.
#190
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
here are some speaker locations... in order from STRONGEST to WEAKEST bass... (using same speaker/amp/box volume)
1. Rear-Firing Well Box
2. Down-Firing Well Box
3. Glass-Reflecting Well Box
4. Rear-Firing Hatch Box
5. Down-Firing Hatch Box
6. Glass-Reflecting Hatch Box
7. Forward-Facing Hatch Box
8. Back-Seat Box of any kind...
you can easily test this with a small truck box that fits in the well... I moved it all around and tested the sound...
cleanest and deepest bass was rear-firing well
1. Rear-Firing Well Box
2. Down-Firing Well Box
3. Glass-Reflecting Well Box
4. Rear-Firing Hatch Box
5. Down-Firing Hatch Box
6. Glass-Reflecting Hatch Box
7. Forward-Facing Hatch Box
8. Back-Seat Box of any kind...
you can easily test this with a small truck box that fits in the well... I moved it all around and tested the sound...
cleanest and deepest bass was rear-firing well
#191
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
that makes me wonder..what i could do with my fiberglassing project... that would make my subs hit harder.... i wonder if i could mount the subs in the middle of the box facin rearward
#192
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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try this... make a box that takes up the entire well... and two rear-firing subs... and leave enough room for the sound to escape near the latch mechinism... a 'port' if you will... but it does not have to meet any port specifications... just so the sound can escape...
#193
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
damn.. that means i cant incorporate that into me current project... which ill be glad to be done with.. the ordeal will unfold as i finish... but ill prolly end up making another better quality box because this one is heading south fast...
#194
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Car: '88 IROC-Z / '91 Z28 / '91 GTA
Engine: LT4 Hot Cam 305 / L98 355 / MR 383
Transmission: 5-spd / 700R4 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:45 / 3:23 / 3:23
great pics guys, how about some updates and new installs??
also.. this thread should be a sticky IMO!
also.. this thread should be a sticky IMO!
#195
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
oolllldddd post... lol i got mines finished which is ooollllddd news but hey
#198
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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nice ThraxXx... I'm gonna try something like that but a little more complicated... involving hinged pieces that lock...
#199
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
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nah scrappy we all know ur habitual liar... ur not doin nething like that urs gnuna have lazers and stuff.. prolly som of them texan cactus plants
#200
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Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
wanna know something funny? too bad
I have a 'SECURITY' laser that actually goes to my car alarm.
it is basically a "laser projector" and it projects the word 'SECURITY' on any surface... kinda cool... I'm too lazy to install it, and I don't know where it would look good... maybe if I made a custom box I could install it to shine on my hatch window or something...
and of course I'll have my (smart) stereo controller, plus my V.C.C. (Vehicle Control Computer) -- which will control all my LED panels, windows and locks, and if I get really crazy... door poppers... since my windows are already automated, that will be a snap...
the biggest hurdle I'm working with now is building the actual LED panels... for the taillights, I will actually have to BREAK the tails apart to put the panels inside... unless someone knows how to open them up?
I've already made the 3rd-stop light into LED... I like it... and I've already made the front clear LED turn signals... but I've run into resistance problems with the turn signal timer... can I just SHORT the turn signal mechanism, and put my own turn-signal-timer on my own boards?
first I'm gonna finish up my laser-lighted, robotic, barking, strobing, blinking, beeping, shining awesome subwoofer box... as I'm sure Saigon Bob would love to see...
I'm going for a stealth dual 15" install. Some say IT CAN'T BE DONE
We'll see...
We'll see...
threadjack where?
I have a 'SECURITY' laser that actually goes to my car alarm.
it is basically a "laser projector" and it projects the word 'SECURITY' on any surface... kinda cool... I'm too lazy to install it, and I don't know where it would look good... maybe if I made a custom box I could install it to shine on my hatch window or something...
and of course I'll have my (smart) stereo controller, plus my V.C.C. (Vehicle Control Computer) -- which will control all my LED panels, windows and locks, and if I get really crazy... door poppers... since my windows are already automated, that will be a snap...
the biggest hurdle I'm working with now is building the actual LED panels... for the taillights, I will actually have to BREAK the tails apart to put the panels inside... unless someone knows how to open them up?
I've already made the 3rd-stop light into LED... I like it... and I've already made the front clear LED turn signals... but I've run into resistance problems with the turn signal timer... can I just SHORT the turn signal mechanism, and put my own turn-signal-timer on my own boards?
first I'm gonna finish up my laser-lighted, robotic, barking, strobing, blinking, beeping, shining awesome subwoofer box... as I'm sure Saigon Bob would love to see...
I'm going for a stealth dual 15" install. Some say IT CAN'T BE DONE
We'll see...
We'll see...
threadjack where?