4

 

NEEDforSPEED...have u sold that box yet and if not how much are u wanting for it?

 

NEEDforSPEED...have u sold that box yet and if not how much are you wanting for it?

 

What do you guys think?

 

another

 

Sorry bro..


nice idea but i think the register vents have to go.

 

They are needed for cooling, there are 2 fans in each side.. I know they are not attractive but I wanted to hide the fans.

 

if you look at the first page you'll see a pic of my old box and see the awesome tiger or whatevr carpet it was. this is the new box and amp cover that took its place. all built by me

 

for got the pic

 

didn;t work again

 

sometimes I wish that my box didn't take up the ENTIRE well and go all the way up to the rear seats... oh well...

 

Here's my set-up, finally in the car...
Basic, but perfect for me!

 

Looks like something I designed and built 5 years ago when I bought my Iroc...only difference is I mounted my amp in the cover.

Ryan

 

Here's my current set up... Just ordered a 10" Rockford Power T1, so it's going to be changing in about a week or so...

 

This is the set-up I did not too long ago. It took quite some time to build the box, all of you would know how that goes. A lot of measuring and cutting - measure twice, cut once. But in the end, im very pleased with what I was able to create. To see the box as it was in the process, just go to www.cardomain.com/id/resilient and go to page 6.

 

This is going to be my new box...

 

fanatic, is that a subwoofer box design program, or just an autocad-like program?

the reason I ask, is the box looks nice, but the 'port' just looks like some channeling built by the walls of the box... I was just wondering if you had any math behind the actual porting of the box, or if it just 'looked' good to you.

All in all, the box looks great, and I've always been a fan of the 'slotted' ports on boxes... you just have to make sure you design it right... make sure you do a lot of research on the size of your port, they are VERY specific... and you probably already know all that.

what are the dimensions of the box, size of woofer, brand, and where are you going to put this bad boy?

 

most of you have seen mine, but heres a pic anyway so show what it looks like for those who havnt.

i recently sealed up the ports for better sound purposes.

 

that's funny ryan, because almost everyone I've ever known who's ported a box, (either afterthought, or from initial design,) has ended up plugging those suckers up... almost always sounds cleaner as a sealed box...

 

I like to keep my crap simple.


Even the amp is hidden underneath.

 

I hide my amp in the spare tire compartment, WITH the spare tire and jack.

 

First of all, thanks for the compliments!

It is an actual box-design program. It's called Rhinocerous. There's like 10 different box-design programs out there.

It's kind of hard to tell because the the is completely "see thru", but the two lines you see, towards the port, are actually pieces of MDF. They're completely their own chambers, aside from the opening, to let the "bass flow". The box is tuned to 35 hz.

Right now I have a pre-fab f-body box running 2 12" eclipses, which are seeing ~150w/sub. Nothing special. But the box takes up entirely too much room. This box right here will only take up about half of the available trunk space. Allowing me to still use some of that space, AND have access to the spare tire w/o having to pull my entire box out.

There will be 1 10" Rockford Power T1 in the box. It will be getting around 600-800w. I might set the gain for the amp a little bit low... depending on how loud it is. I have a 1200w Kenwood eXcelon amp lying around, and I don't want to use all it's power (it runs at about 850w RMS)
I have some kenwood excelon 6x9's in the sails, running off an amp ~110w/speaker and I will be putting in my Rockford 4" components in the front ~70w/comp. So it should be a nice mix of sound.

 

does that program actually take into account speaker specifications, and actual box design/porting to tell you what it would be tuned at, and what kind of spl and such you should expect?

kinda like desktop dyno for subwoofers! hehe

 

awesome, any more pics??

 

Sure!

Just a single 12", nothing too major. It thumps enough for me.

Dont mind those white streaks. It was snowing lightly when I took the picture. But the carpet matches pretty good, eh?

And if you compare those pics with the one I put in my other Bird, you'll see there's a pretty big difference.

 

yup what is that a lightning audio amp? I saw one of those at a fleamarket a year or so ago.

nice red carpet setup though. snow sucks.

 

Lol no it's a 'MA audio' amp. 400w x 2. Got it for $150 CAD at a place called XS cargo. lol.

 

you actually bought car audio from XS CARGO?????
ugh!

well it is cheap... just curious, is MA audio a real brand? not like RockBox or something cheesy? Does it sound alright?

 

Yeah, it actually sounds real good. But I only got the amp and wiring there.

 

heres my setup

 

you know i never new you had a system man, very smooth!
looks like you almost copy me

 

that's got to be the cleanest damn install, that I've ever seen!

did you build the box, then attach some larger MDF to the top of it, then cut the woofer holes through the two different pieces of mdf? so that larger piece of wood can hold the amps and such... then you put carpet over the hole thing, and screwed in the woofers?


I'd love to do that with my 15's, but you have to raise the surface of the box higher, because they won't fit if the box only came up to deck heighth like yours.

excellent design, whoever came up with it...

 

also, Nick, what is that bar going across right over the amps?

 

you mean the cargo cover

 

how does that work? does it automatically cover everything when you close the hatch, or does it hook onto something when you unroll it?

 

thanks guys i had a pro install it for me

 

fairly simple and cheap setup I did:

 

I wanted to make sure the well remained available if I every needed to put a flat tire back there (that is what the well is for, after all). I also wanted to keep the subs stealth. As for the amp, I pulled out the glove box and used that space in the wheel well behind the rear driver's tire to mount it in a hidden location.

I'm a bit disappointed in the sound though... part of the sound wave goes forward and part of it goes back, reflects off the well, and then comes forward and interferes w/ the front part of the wave. I plan on making a downfiring box so all the bass goes towards the well and reflects forward -- that should help eliminate interference.

 

would it be bad if my subs were up on the hump i mean do u lose the power of the subs dat way.

 

here are some speaker locations... in order from STRONGEST to WEAKEST bass... (using same speaker/amp/box volume)

1. Rear-Firing Well Box
2. Down-Firing Well Box
3. Glass-Reflecting Well Box
4. Rear-Firing Hatch Box
5. Down-Firing Hatch Box
6. Glass-Reflecting Hatch Box
7. Forward-Facing Hatch Box
8. Back-Seat Box of any kind...

you can easily test this with a small truck box that fits in the well... I moved it all around and tested the sound...

cleanest and deepest bass was rear-firing well

 

that makes me wonder..what i could do with my fiberglassing project... that would make my subs hit harder.... i wonder if i could mount the subs in the middle of the box facin rearward

 

try this... make a box that takes up the entire well... and two rear-firing subs... and leave enough room for the sound to escape near the latch mechinism... a 'port' if you will... but it does not have to meet any port specifications... just so the sound can escape...

 

damn.. that means i cant incorporate that into me current project... which ill be glad to be done with.. the ordeal will unfold as i finish... but ill prolly end up making another better quality box because this one is heading south fast...

 

great pics guys, how about some updates and new installs??

also.. this thread should be a sticky IMO!

 

oolllldddd post... lol i got mines finished which is ooollllddd news but hey

 

at least my posts delete themselves for no reason...

 

This combo smoked a nice 140.4 DB's

 

nice ThraxXx... I'm gonna try something like that but a little more complicated... involving hinged pieces that lock...

 

nah scrappy we all know ur habitual liar... ur not doin nething like that urs gnuna have lazers and stuff.. prolly som of them texan cactus plants

 

wanna know something funny? too bad

I have a 'SECURITY' laser that actually goes to my car alarm.

it is basically a "laser projector" and it projects the word 'SECURITY' on any surface... kinda cool... I'm too lazy to install it, and I don't know where it would look good... maybe if I made a custom box I could install it to shine on my hatch window or something...

and of course I'll have my (smart) stereo controller, plus my V.C.C. (Vehicle Control Computer) -- which will control all my LED panels, windows and locks, and if I get really crazy... door poppers... since my windows are already automated, that will be a snap...

the biggest hurdle I'm working with now is building the actual LED panels... for the taillights, I will actually have to BREAK the tails apart to put the panels inside... unless someone knows how to open them up?

I've already made the 3rd-stop light into LED... I like it... and I've already made the front clear LED turn signals... but I've run into resistance problems with the turn signal timer... can I just SHORT the turn signal mechanism, and put my own turn-signal-timer on my own boards?

first I'm gonna finish up my laser-lighted, robotic, barking, strobing, blinking, beeping, shining awesome subwoofer box... as I'm sure Saigon Bob would love to see...

I'm going for a stealth dual 15" install. Some say IT CAN'T BE DONE

We'll see...
We'll see...

threadjack where?