jey man that is a really creative idea i have one question though does it sound good cause im think of doing the same thing with some mods to it but idk to lean it foward a lil or keep it faceing up cause i want the best possible sound
let me kno man

 

jey man that is a really creative idea i have one question though does it sound good cause im think of doing the same thing with some mods to it but idk to lean it foward a lil or keep it faceing up cause i want the best possible sound
let me kno man

 

heres my set up

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...amp-build.html

 

wow mine is much simpler.

 

but those aren't subs

 

I am wanting to put a storage cover where you all are putting the boxes. But my ? is is it safe to put hinges on it. Because my concern is putting screws in the body that close to the gas tank. I seen there are a few with hinges and they have used screws. What do you guys think. I am ordering carpet next week and if this is ok to do i am going to get some matching carpet for the cover. Thanks

 

and the title said speaker boxes. not sub boxes!!!!

 

ANYONE

 

Here is a suggestion.

Take a 4x8" sheet of MDF. Cut is so it will cover from the back seat to the back of the car. Cut the sheet again where the hatch begins and hinge. Cut a hole for the subs to fit and let the subs run free air.

Something like this...


Also remember that our cars came with a locking hatch cover option, so placing a hinge shouldn't be an issue.

 

my 4x12s and 2x1400w amps.. box goes down to the bottom of trunk.. split left to right. IT POUNDS!!

 

heres mine!!


side view




two ten kickers powered by a $ 60 daul amp from walmart thumps!!!

the box doesnt fit fully cause dude sold me wrong box on graigs list but i cut it and trimed it for best fit lil krooked but looks good!

 

Here is mine . Wanted a nice clean , stock appearing setup. Puts out some decent sound too.

 

how do the dash board speakers get removed on a 1987 iroc?

 

You need to remove the dash pad first There are screws under the dashpad (6 or so) and in the top air openings (4 of them).

Remove screws holding speakers and disconnect speakar wire plug.

It's tight so use a short screwdriver.

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...89763&comments Heres a video

 

was wondering if any of you guys put LED's by the speakers to light em up, i have seen little LED's but wondered about powering them. pics of those would be great too..

 

I have a kitt light
hooked the positive wire to the positive terminal on the amp and the negative to the ground wire

 

This setup is in my 90' RS. The bucket idea started out as a joke my dad made so I did it to be a smart *** and to both of our surprise it sounded pretty good . Made a few modifications to try and fine tune the sound such as porting and polly fill and it sounds better and hits harder than most setups of equal power. Cost me a total of prolly 30 bucks to build the box.

 

-

 

Mine are powered by a switch on the dash that is pullin power from the fuse block super easy to set up

 

Apply some sound deadener to the outside or inside of the bucket. It will hit even harder.

 

yah i see the lights in the 2nd picture, can you show me an exact picture of the lights on the pull down area? and how its hooked up to the fuse box?

 

These are what I used they have a peel off 3M adhesive strip on them very sticky. They come with the switch.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1328695

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Cody/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]Would take more pics but camera broke last month.
But very simple Stuck them under little edge of the molding cant even see them unless your lookin for them.
As far as the wiring hook the black to a pre-existing ground
(ex. hatch motor ground or amp ground)
the red is run under the side plastic molding to your dash put switch where ever you want and pull your power from the fuse block
LED's pull virtually no power so you can pick whatever space is hot all the time and run it to the other prong on the switch.
Just takes a lil creativity and basic knowledge of electrical wiring.
Simple Clean and Quick.

 

Thanks for the tip I just happen to have some left over from another project

 

CHECK OUT THE VICE GRIPS ON THE SHOCK SUPPORTS!!!!!!

 

I got that Mono Block amp. Sony Explode 1600 watts.

 

I saw your sub box set-up - looks very clean. did you build it? how deep is the box so you can put your amps underneath it? Thanks for the input.

 

Putting the amps under the box would be the worst thing to do. Amps need a lot of room to be able to ventilate properly. That's why you always see amps with the radiating fins verticle or laying on a plain surface. You'll never see a professional installer mount an amp upside down under a rear deck because the generated heat will just rise back up onto the amp. If you do want to mount the amp or amps under the box, you will need to install or mod a fan to ventilate the confined space. But then again, installing a fan will possibly introduce electrical noise into the system.

 

Here is mine

 

ohhh the good ol days

 

12inch rockford subs with 1000wat and a 500wat amps

 

Thank you for your reply, I think that makes sense and I will take your advice.

 

It makes perfect sense. Installers always run the positive cable on one side of the car and the patch cords on the otherside of the car. The reason for this is to keep the radiating noise from the power cable away from the preamp signal (patch cords). The noise in the power cable is caused mainly by the alternator. There are good patch cord developers who design cords with aluminum foil wrapped around the core to shield any noise. Now if you introduce a motor close to the patchcord, the noise is caused by the magnetic force field created by the motor. As for for mounting a upside down amp, well it's common sense that heat rises. The only amps that are good for mounting upside down are the ones with a built in cooling fan. But these cooling fans are the same, but they are small and the amp is designed with noise filters. I know this because I had the "Crutfield Installers Manual" back when it was free a long time ago (1999).

 

awesome info, thanks again for the help.

 

Is it true that it is a bad idea to mount the amp on top of the box?

 

heck i don't think so except i was trying to hide the amp from view for security reasons

 

Mounting it on the top of the box is both good and bad. The good is that of yu ever wanna take out the system, it'll come out in one piece. The bad is that it'll add some more pounds to the already heavy enclosure. Another bad thing is that if the amp is a serious sub driver, the vibration WILL vibrate the chips or other critical internal pieces off their soldering joints this causing premature failure of the amp.

 

So if you have a box with 2 10's in the well in the trunk, where would be the best place to mount the amp with it out of site and hidden?

 

There isn't a good hiding spot. The bucket seats are too low, and the whole cabin is open as well as the hatch area. I don't have any tint on my hatch glass, but I do have the hatch shade roll-up curtain. Your best bet is to tint limo or get a curtain. My IROC had no provisions for the curtain. I did a full on custom curtain installation. So now I have a way of hiding my system. The only thing that I really hate is that I can't put my t-top in the bag because it hits the subs.

 

LOL. Low key. RIGHT!

 

?????????

 

Have you seen the pictures you posted?

 

 

I have been following some plans that i found on here.After a few days,i finally got it all in. I modified the top part myself so that it sloped forward.(the plans called for a flat top) I was worried that the inside volume would not be big enouph for 2 12's. but it sounds surprisingly very good! my subs are hitting alot harder with this box. i had no problems fitting it in my 86.nothing special,,but here it is so far.i will be dressing it all up soon as i figure out what i want to do.

 

for mine 91 Camaro Z28

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/albu...ictureid=36005

2k watt system second amp is for 6x9s and tweeters. kicker comps wired to 2 ohms and box is stuffed with poly-fil.

 

Here's some shots.I have 2-10" (JL) speakers installed and had it cut and fitted made with the embroider logo so to not see any seams. The amp is located beneath the box to the floor. And NO I don't have any problem with overheating. The head and all the others speakers are Alpine's. SOUND ALLSOME!!!

 

Here is my stock rear speaker lid (Bose Gold Series Option or something like that). I believe this is a very rare option.

 

That STOCK Bose rear speaker lid is sexy. Its by far the most useful way I've seen a back trunk lid.