DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

im posting this hear because ive been told that this may be a carb problem.

ok so first off i swapped in a 350 to my 305 car did away with all the old stuff got a holley carb put it all together and drove it a little bit. i had many problems with oil pan gasket leaking and the carb wouldnt stop fouling plugs so out with the motor ,fix the gasket, replace the powervalve in the carb. and in goes the motor. the motor is timed, carb is adjusted as well as my grandpa could get it. it is now running and idling like a dream in park and nuetral, but as soon as i shift into any gear the car stalls very quickly even if i give it gas. ( by the way my car is automatic). ive also been told that this could be my torque converter. what do you guys think because im completely stumped . i know there is someone wise here that can help me.

thanks in advance!

Randy82WS7

i wouldnt vote on torque converter

what they are claiming is that the TCC is stuck engaged in which i highly doubt in this case

i vote for vacuum leak problem and/or accelerator pump not squirting enough fuel

if you can find a Q jet carb i would really suggest going to one, or at least to an edelbrock

i bet that thing eats gas man

an edelbrock wouldnt so much, and a q jet eats the least amount, and especialy the E4ME ones

spray some stsrting fluid or carb cleaner around the base of the carb with it running and see if it speeds up whenever and wherever you spray the gaskets and seals around the intake and carb base

this will tell you where a vacuum leak is, if there is one

if not then make sure your ignition timing is set correctly and make sure the carb is worh a damn


this is the best i can do over the internet without being there to see/hear it


good luck

DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks man im going to look for a leak today. i hope it is thats easy.

naf

iTrader: (7)

If you're still using the stock, computer controlled distributor it will cause problems as well without the stock ccc-qjet.

DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

no i have an HEI distributer and i checked for a leak today and came up with nothing. any more suggestions? thanks guys.

johnsonm

When you set the timing, did you use a gun or set it by ear?

Everytime I set the timing by ear, where it sounded really mean idling in the driveway, it was always like 10 degrees retarded (atdc), which could kill the engine when you pull it in to gear.

Disregard if timing with a gun.

Auggie

My brothers car had that exact same problem and it was the lock-up torque converter. It would not disengauge. He changed the solonoid in the trans. Jack the rear wheels off of the ground and try it.

Auggie

DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

the timing was done by my grandpa by ear.

johnsonm

If it is the timing, try advancing it until the engine smooths out and possibly increases in RPM and try driving again. Adjust a little by little to see if there is any change.

If you think the distributor is dead on (where it is right now) mark it someway, with tape or a marker so you can go back to that point if adjusting doesn't do any good. You can get pretty close setting the timing by ear, but you usually have to do some driving and adjusting (at least I have to race up and down the highway a couple times, adjust timing, repeat) not just idling in the driveway.

I'm not sure how you would tell if the convertor was locked up by jacking the rear wheels up. I would think there would not be enough resistance to get the convertor to slip with just the wheels in the air. Wouldn't the wheels turn regardless of if the convertor locked up or not? Maybe I just need a little further explanation.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If the TCC is locking up, it's like letting out the clutch on a manual transmission - if you're holding the car still with the parking brake on, it will stall the engine. If the rear wheels can turn freely, then a locked up TCC won't stall the engine.

I doubt it's the TCC solenoid. The TCC circuit doesn't get any fluid pressure until 2nd gear. If the solenoid has an electrical problem, having your foot on the brake kills the power to the solenoid.

No offense to grandpa, but setting the timing by ear is at best for getting the car running. Unless, of course, you bump it in small increments as suggested until it runs "right".

DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

ok so now i go outside to put the car back in the garage, i tried it with the vac advance unplugged from the distributer and blocked off . now i can drive the car without stalling. does this mean its not the torque converter? also could this meen that i might need a new distributer? any more ideas? thanks again

naf

iTrader: (7)

It means your timing is most likely off or your vac can is leaking. Do you have a timing gun?

DillonRager

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the help guys it turned out to be the pickup coil in the distributer.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Chalk up another one for solving a "carb problem" by fixing the ignition. . .