RocketyMan

Ok..so I have an '84 or '83 305 HO (I think the RPO says it's an '83 but the carb is from '84 )

Anyways...I woke this car up from the dead. It was sitting under a tree for the past 5 years. I did a lot of little "maintenance" things. I.E. Changed all the spark plugs, sanded the points on the distributor, changed the oil, put a new fuel pump on it...etc.

I originally got it started with the Rochester on it, but it smoked like crazy and was burning REALLY rich (the garage turned into a huge fog box...probably lost 5 years of my life when I was in there..). None the less, it wouldn't run correctly at all.

So my buddy let me try his 2 barrel carburetor off a '67 mustang, and it started great, idled great, and wouldn't smoke up the whole garage. So I know the engine runs very well. It's just obvious how I have a 2 barrel carb on there how it feels.

At any rate, I want to rebuild my Rochester. I know it's a good carb and has potential for a lot of power. I'm trying to find some good resources on the web, although it is very hard to find much of anything.

Here's something I found from TG. I'm still trying to find other stuff.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

Here's also some picture of the carb. The model number is 17084205. Then there are other numbers and letter right next to that one : 3263 HYA

Zwrench

The carburetor looks pretty clean in the pictures

Yes, they are a good carb. They are easy to rebuild and maintain.

Did you watch the choke operation when you started it? The rich condition you describe could have been caused by the choke not operating properly.

Check out this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...operation.html A member named damon does a very nice job of explaining how the choke system works.

RocketyMan

Cool thanks for the link.

No, the pictures aren't that good I guess. It's filthy! I really need to clean it.

I really think it needs to be rebuilt. Prior to the 5 years it sat, it still didn't even run right (which is why it sat).

Besides, I'd rather rebuild it and have it running perfectly.

Zwrench

Yes, you should rebuild it. Just use that link to check your choke operation.

Also check my first post in that thread. It describes how to seal the main jet well plugs. You might as well do that while you have the carb apart.

RocketyMan

Yeah..very true.

I'm also trying to figure out if the butterfly shafts have a lot of play...They seem like they don't...

RocketyMan

Ok...so I went to schuck's today and picked up a rebuild kit and some carb cleaner.

I'll be cracking this thing open and taking pictures and what not.

Here's a pick of the kit I picked up. It was like $21. Never really heard of Walker before..but hey, it's made in USA.

RocketyMan

Airight..for those of you who are following along..maybe, I've taken everything apart.

I did notice that the fuel inlet was stripped a little bit. agh!
But when I had it on the car, it didn't seem to leak..soo I might be ok there.

Another thing was the throttle blade shafts. Now I REALLY can't tell if they have that much play in them or not. they seem relatively tight...but I guess they could be tighter.

Then lastly, I probably need to epoxy the wells and other parts. http://image.carcraft.com/f/8609741+...mage_large.jpg

Here are some pictures of stuff. I'm wondering how I can test out the resistance on the TPS and then my MC solenoid.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The TPS is best tested with the carb installed and idle set. The carb sticky up top has some additional diagnosis info. A search for rebuilding the carb will also turn up some stuff.

The throttle shafts, if worn, will have noticeable play. If you don't have to, it's best not to remove them. The screws holding the blades on are swaged in.

RocketyMan

Ok...so I'm having problems finding information on the carb section about how many ohms the tps should be when the throttle is at idle. And again, the Haynes manual says it should be at either .25 volts or .5 volts. I don't see how this is an option when my car won't even run prior to the carb rebuild.

I'm getting a reading of about 4.15 Kilo Ohms on the middle pin and lower pin. Then I'm getting about 15.94 kilo Ohms on the upper pin and middle pin.

I'm still looking and searching to see if this is correct resistance at idle. If anyone can confirm something, please post it.

RocketyMan

Ok...for anyone who's paying attention to this.

I put on the carb after I put it all together. Hooked up all the electrical stuff. MC solenoid, tps, choke...

Turned right on once it got fuel to the bowl and STILL FLOODS! My garage is puking with unburnt fuel! And plus on top of that, the fool who rebuilt this carburetor before me completely cross threaded the outer fuel inlet. So it leaks gas there right on top of the intake manifold.


I'm hate carburetors.

Zwrench

Snap-on used to make a thread chaser to fix up cross threaded fuel inlets. Mac and Matco probably did too. It would probably cost less to pick up a used QJ, though.

If by flooding, you mean that you have raw fuel flowing out of your main jets or out of the top of your carburetor, check to make sure the top gasket isn't interfering with float travel.

DoubleV

I don't know about anyone else, but I just take the TPS ( removed from the carb ), plug it into the connector under the hood, hook up my scanner, turn the car to ON, and work the TPS with my thumb and check the voltage at various points.

Of course, you need a scanner to do this.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Open it up and verify that the float and needle assembly is good and float level is correct. Make sure the hinge pin for the float is installed so that the u-shaped end fits into the slot on one side. This slot keeps it in proper place but it can be inadvertently installed incorrectly and the float hinge will lift.

There is a fuel inlet kit that can be purchased for around $10-15 that replaces the fuel inlet fitting with a self-tapping piece. I got one a NAPA years ago for a carb. You have to be careful when installing it to ensure all the metal shavings are removed and the passages thoroughly cleaned.

If it persists you may need to check your fuel pressure.

RocketyMan

Yeah..you're right. I should just try and pick up a new rochester from the junk yard. It's basically really cross threaded. I was hoping it wouldn't leak. I guess my only other option would be to somehow weld it.

No, the carb is just making the fuel mixture REALLY rich.


I don't know where I could get one of those scanners. I'm guessing the TPS is not adjusted right because it thinks the throttle blade it open more than it is. So it's dumping in more fuel without more airflow..?? Does that sound right possibly?

If I drill out that plug to adjust the TPS, how am I suppose to calibrate the TPS if I don't have a scanner?



I made sure the float is working right and set right. To my knowledge and to the paper with my rebuild kit, it said to set the float at 11/32.

I really don't know how I can tap out the fuel inlet much at all when the piece of metal around it is like 1/8".

DoubleV

Probably not. I doubt your TPS is that far out of adjustment and if it were, It wouldn't cause your carb to flood. I think if it's WAY out of adjustment, it may even throw a code but I'm not sure.

How did you set your MC solenoid lean/rich stops when you opened up your carb?

Are you sure you set your float to the correct hieght and are sure it's not sticking?

Are all the passages clean in your carb?

When the cars running, how far open is your choke?

Normally you would use a voltmeter and probe the TPS through the wires while it's connected. I don't remember the exact procedure because I never had to do it. I find it MUCH easier to plug my scanner in and read the voltage ( among many other usefull things like dwell which you'll need to know) that way.

If you have the money, get a scanner if you're planning on running your car on the computer. It makes things alot easier.

naf

iTrader: (7)

You can get by without a scanner if you have a voltmeter and a dwell meter. You can backprobe the B and C (middle and bottom) of the TPS connector with a voltmeter with engine in run/engine off to adjust the TPS close to 0.40 volts at idle. Then test it to about 4.0 volts at WOT.

The IAB can be adjusted with a dwell meter connected to the diagnostic lead by the HVAC box. More info on adjustments is in the sticky.

Was the MC solenoid clicking when the engine was turned on? Did you verify 1/8" of solenoid travel through the IAB slot AFTER the carb was put back together?

Your flooding can only be caused by the needle/seat assembly allowing too much fuel to pass. Float level, bad/misaligned needle/seat, trash in the fuel or too much fuel pressure lifting the needle.

RocketyMan

Sorry that I didn't get back to you guys in a while.

I set the lean stop at 1.304 inches. Basically an inch and a third about. I cleaned it out very good and blew out all the little passages. The only thing I can even think it could be if the tps is not the problem would be the rich stop on the MC solenoid. I left that the same because I didn't have something small enough to fit down the holes to measure the air bleed valve. I also don't have that tool to adjust the rich stop.

In the rebuild kit, I used the new needle and seat. I also set the float 11/32 measuring from the top when the float has the needle closed. Before hand, I tested the float in hot HOT water and saw no bubbles.


When I turned on my car it started on about 1800 rpms is where I have the fast idle set at about. Basically when I started it, it sounded like crap and I immediately looked at the exhaust and saw basically rich smoke coming out.

I guess now that you mention it, it could be the rich stop being set too high. I just don't have a tool skinny enough to fit to measure the solenoid plate that presses on the needles.


Yes, the solenoid was clicking when I started it and sounded like it was working.

No, I did not verify the upward travel of the solenoid. That right there could be my problem. I was hoping that if I left the rich stop unchanged, it would be ok. But I guess I'm completely wrong.

I basically don't know where to get the tool to adjust it. It's a weird box looking connection. Next would be to find a skinny measuring tool. Any ideas? I'm guessing they're very specialized tools.

naf

iTrader: (7)

You can measure the travel of the MC solenoid with a secondary rod placed into the IAB opening (after first removing the IAB). Just hold the little ruler that came in the carb kit next to it. If you don't have the tool to adjust the rich stop you can turn it from underneath with a needle nose or similar pliers. This requires measuring the travel with the airhorn on (and gasket) then removing the airhorn to make any adjustments. Best to set this before placing the TPS and booster plunger in, then verifying that it's still correct after final assembly.

Nothing in the MC/rich/lean stop is going to cause the carb to overflow with fuel though. That is solely the result of over pressure or a problem in the needle/seat/float assembly. Did you measure your float level at the little line near the end of the float? Were you holding down the end of the float hinge above the needle putting SLIGHT pressure on it when you measured? The float doesn't drop the needle into the seat it presses the needle down. The spring clip is only for alignment.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Some pics of what I'm talking about in here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-ccc-qjet.html

RocketyMan

Wow! That's a very good write up with pictures!

Judging off your pictures, my rich stop screw looks to be screwed all the way up. But right now I'm visiting family. So once I return home, I'll need to take my carb all apart again and check it out. I have a feeling I know why it's been running rich.

Blind Driver

Something is so wrong here.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I didn't read everything but wanted to say that the deal with the fuel inlet was a common issue and whatever you may find would likely have the same problem. I would try to get it re-tapped with a new fitting so that it is secure.

And yeah, post a pic of your distributor. If you have an older engine in there it may have a cam for a 2 barrel leaving a lot of unburned fuel.

RocketyMan

uuhhmmm...what?? I sanded down the contacts where the rotor spins around inside the cap. They had crap on them.

RocketyMan

Looking at the fuel inlet, it seems that the outer screw is smaller. Someone obviously tried doing something to this before me. But I don't know where I can get a tap that big and a fuel inlet to replace it. I don't want to dump alot of money into it when I can just wait and go to the junk yard and pick another one up.


The car wasn't ever really messed with. It sounds and runs perfectly fine with that other carburetor. Its just a 2 barrel off a '67 ford isn't really made for a chevy.

Maybe I should post a video of it running with it on? It starts right up and doesn't really sound lopey or anything.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

They used to have the cheap one that self threaded and I think I was told you could bring it in to have it tapped and use the next size up. It was a while back but I ended up going another route with it though.

RocketyMan

Hmmm...well I took apart my carb again. and looking at the fuel inlet..it really doesn't look right. It looks like the self threading one too now that you mention it!

basiccamaro

It's a little late now, and he doesn't talk nearly as much about computer controlled Q-Jets, but- you should get Cliff Ruggles' book on Quadrajet performance and rebuilding. It covers many repairs to messed up parts like the fuel inlet threads. The book goes really deep into these carbs, but you can just hit the high spots and make a really nice running carb. I rebuilt one using this book and his parts and only did a few of his basic mods and I'm really happy with it.
He has a forum on his website, I think it's Cliffsperformance.com or something close to that.

I really like Q-Jets but I would go with the non- computer controlled versions. But that means several other changes as well, going back to old school distributor and carb, and dealing with the TV cable adjustment. And if you eliminate the computer and/or electronicaly controlled components the car will no longer pass emission testing, so it's definately not for everybody.

RocketyMan

Yeah..I don't know why I'd want to switch to a non computer controlled when I'd be rendering alot of the car useless.

basiccamaro

It would be to have a more simple, better running, more easily tuneable system than you have now and possibly not be experiencing the problem(s) that you have posted on here about, wanting help to diagnose and remedy.
I haven't done a scientific study, but from the posts I read, the early computer controlled systems on our third gen cars have the highest number of "Oh God, PLEASE help me!" posts on this site. And most of them go on for quite a long time with many people chiming in trying to help. And few seem to write back having found the solution and having their car run correctly in the end.
I own a third gen camaro with a CCQJ and have had my own experiences and problems, so I have some experience with both these and the old school systems.

It's just my preferrence, but I like to keep it as least complicated as possible. Especially when the extra "gingerbread" was put on your car in order to be a band- aid for government pollution and gas mileage regulations and worries that made them some of the least powerfull musclecars in the history of the hobby until the OEMs finally figured out how to make electronic FI a reliable and capable performer.

You might be better equipped to handle the problems you encounter with your car than I am with mine. But I will be going with what works best for me.
As I said, if you have to remain emissions check compliant, my way will not work at all.

RocketyMan

I wouldn't necessarily always agree with that. Matter of fact, probably not at all since that's completely opinion. For instance, a regular rochester would act different at the beach then up in the mountains. A computer controlled rochester would have the capability to try and compensate for the pressure change and ultimately be more suited to try and adjust the mixture.

But they had fuel injected on the early 60's corvettes. It's been around for a while and they were supposedly making around 300 hp.

Ok..now I know why my carburetor was running way too rich. I needed to adjust the rich stop screw. My only problem is how to KNOW how to adjust it correctly. I basically don't know how far it should stick out... The directions SUCk for this. But I'll scan the papers I'm looking at and show you guys.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Adjust your rich stop screw to get 1/8" inch of travel for the Mixture Control Solenoid. You can measure the travel through the opening once the IAB Screw is removed. You'll have to temporarily install the airhorn in order to measure the travel (with gasket). Just don't try to install the TPS and booster until you've got it set as it may take a few iterations.

Your fuel inlet is one of the self-tapping replacements. It will seal with a gasket between the OUTER ring and carb body (not inside like the stock one). If it's impossible to get it to seal correctly (sometimes they're tapped on just a little cocked) you can try some sealant on the threads. Worse case skip the tiny filter that goes inside, use an external filter and a little JB Weld on the threads.

RocketyMan

17084205

Ok so here are the instruction sheets. I find it VERY confusing when looking at the adjustment data table because it says to screw the idle valve out 7/8 of a turn. But if you look at the instruction sheet lower right corner, it says to turn the idle valve 4 turns out if you're unsure...?

I do know that the lean mixture adjust should be 3 and 1/2 turns out. I'm just confused about the rich mixture stop and the idle air bleed valve.

Is that travel down 1/8 or up 1/8? In the mixture control sheet, it says to adjust around 4/32 (1/8) travel, and I'm guessing that's down movement. So the mc solenoid should be resting all the way up and touching on the rich stop screw?

As far as the fuel inlet, I think I'm going to have to use JB weld. No biggy I guess. I already have a filter right before the fuel pump. So I'm good I guess.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The spring underneath the primary rods and the MC 'hat' will have it resting on the rich stop set screw when properly installed. You'll be able to push down on it through the IAB opening and feel it 'click'. Adjust the rich stop for 1/8" of travel-providing you've adjusted the lean stop to factory setting.

Don't worry too much about the initial setting for the IAB valve. Set it about 4 turns out. You'll need to fine-tune this with a scanner or dwell meter once you get it running. Let me know if you need help with the fine tuning once you get it started.

RocketyMan

Mk. I think I got it now. I'll need to get some JB weld and hem up that fuel inlet. Then I'll be good to go with adjusting the rich and lean stop. I think I pretty much got that down.

RocketyMan

Alright...so I finally got the JB weld on after I got some time from the whole Christmas vacation and new years. I basically just lathered it on the fuel inlet. Then I had some left over. So with the extra I just put some over the fuel dwell hole thing.

I can tell you this is gonna be boring. It's like watching paint dry...except worse...I need to wait 15 hours minimum!


Anyways...once I get it on the Z again, I'll try to get it up and running and hopefully tune it.

RocketyMan

Ok...so I stuck my carb on and...it works!!

So basically, here are the troubles I'm having.

1. After letting the car sit for a few days, it takes FOREVER to start as if the bowl is completely empty. And I know I sealed the dwell plugs up. I don't know what would happen to the fuel (maybe evaporate out???). (Btw...the choke is working great)

2. I tried setting the idle and with the idle screw NEARLY all the way out, it can idle at 500 rpms and so I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak or something. I would guess that the car should die if i turn the idle screw all the way out but its not.

3. The idle air bleed valve is very sensitive with anything more than 4 screws out. It seems to like it better the more it's screwed in.

4. The car still seems to run rich. Like it smells like it is running rich and I can see the plume cloud start to form in my garage after letting it run for 5 mins in my garage. None the less, this is ALOT better running with the quadrajet on than what it use to be. (My idle mixture screws are set to 3 1/2 turns out)

5. Now this is really weird...after the car warms up for quite some time, if I throttle it a little bit, the fast idle solenoid will randomly kick on and force the car to idle high. Now it ONLY does this if the car has been really warmed up.

Zwrench

Congats on getting her running again!

As far as your remaining issues:

1: The gas is still leaking out from somewhere. Maybe the epoxy you used didn't stick or is incompatible with gasoline. A much less likely possibility is the float body is cracked (I've never seen that).

2: Your engine wouldn't necessarily die with the idle screw all the way out. Actually, what you have sounds pretty good. But, by all means, check for vacuum leaks.

3: The idle air bleed screw richens the mixture at idle the further you screw it in.

Now, hopefully someone else can jump in here as this is where my memory gets a little hazy; You can hook a dwell meter to the green connector and adjust the idle air bleed along with the mixture screws to obtain 30*(?) of dwell.

I have to get ready for work so I'll just say what you probably already know. All adjustments should be made with the engine fully warmed up. I'll check back later. Good luck!

RocketyMan

Sweet! Thanks for the reply.

1. As far as the fuel leaking...I'm wondering too if the stuff I used hadn't already melted because of it being incompatible with fuel, BUT!...from what i recall, it's like the bowl doesn't seem to be completely covered or sealed for that matter (gasket doesn't completely seal the top part??). So I'm wondering if the fuel evaporates out??? I really don't think it's leaking out.

2. I want to find those little covers for the vacuum lines. You know...they're like little rubber boots. That way I can seal off nearly all the vacuum lines at the carburetor with an exception of my brake booster.

3. Well that is VERY good to know what it does specifically. So now I know that the fuel mixture could be rich because I did screw it in a tad bit more (probably 3 screws out instead of 4 screws out).



As far as the engine being fully warmed up, it's like the choke doesn't do a real good job of running the engine (feels VERY rough and shakes). I'm guessing that's normal until the bi-metal fully opens the primary flaps? (If I start it and let it run for 5 seconds, I can usually just go to the front of the car and push down the choke lever and it runs fine)

naf

iTrader: (7)

You'll need to adjust the IAB with a dwell meter in order to set it within the proper range for the ECM to control the mixture from O2 and TPS readings. Any other dickering with it is pointless (although in an emergency you could 'possibly' adjust it until open loop was registered at the ALDL-and that would only get it 'close').

With the dwell meter connected to the diagostic lead you'll want to make small adjustments until the dwell responds to show open loop then adjust until the dwell hovers closest to 30 degrees (or 50%) on the V6 scale. It is not a '1/2 turn then drive for a while to see how it does' adjustment.

Once adjusted to open loop the dwell meter can be a handy tool for identifying vacuum leaks. A leak will cause dwell to decrease (more fuel) and when the vac port is plugged the dwell will increase (less fuel). Remember that the higher the dwell-the more time the primary needles are down in the fuel jets.

Zwrench

Thank you naf for filling in my blanks!

RocketyMan, yes, gasoline certainly evaporates. But it would take more than a few days to empty the float bowl under normal conditions. If the top gasket doesn't fit the gas could evaporate faster I suppose but, you'd definitely smell gas around your car when it's sitting and it would most likely not run right. In fact, if the top gasket was wrong enough to cause gas to evaporate to the atmosphere, the car probably wouldn't run.

2: You don't really need those rubber caps. While the engine's running you can just squeeze the vacuum lines individually with a pair of needle nose pliers and see if any of them change the idle. I prefer to check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray, however.

Your choke should open about a 1/4" as soon as the engine fires up. A vacuum pot (choke break, vacuum pull-off, etc) on the passenger's side front of the carburetor does that. If you have to manually open the choke right after start-up to make it run right, chances are the choke break is not working or is mis-adjusted. The bi-metal spring only opens the choke while the engine warms up. More correctly, the spring 'allows' the fast idle cam to open the choke. The fast idle cam is also a counter-weight.

So I don't write a novel on the choke, please refer back to the thread link I provided earlier regarding choke operation. damon did a great job of explaining it.

RocketyMan

Hmm...alright. I understand the process of what I need to do. But a dwell meter is perhaps...umm...a little before my time. So is there anyway I can hook up my multi meter and just look for a frequency? Probably around 30 hz or so?

With a vacuum gauge hooked up does 15 inches at hot idle sound about right??.


As for the gas evaporating out...you're probably right. It's probably more along the lines of leaking out. I'm thinking the sealant I used was crappy.

Well I looked at the vacuum break...and it's completely shot. It basically does not hold any sort of vacuum. I'm having a hard time of finding one at auto parts stores.

As far as the vac lines, alot of them are kinda broke. Like the little plastic lines and the rubber elbows for them. So I can't really clamp anything.

But the bi-metal is working great. After about 3-4 minutes, it fully opens and holds the primary flaps open.

Zwrench

Well, it sounds like you could use new vacuum lines if some of them are cracked. While you're at the parts store getting vacuum lines, pick up a tach/dwell meter for <$10.

The M/C solenoid runs at 10 cycles per second. That could be expressed as 10 hz. But, dwell is a time measurement of how long the solenoid is engaged in the 'closed' position. So, while it's 10 hertz, the time it spends in the down position is what you want to know. That's what a dwell meter will tell you. If you can use a multi-meter that way, I'm not aware of it. Maybe someone else does and can chime in?

Also, 15* vacuum is on the low side. If it's steady, your timing is probably late (retarded) or you have a vacuum leak(s).

naf

iTrader: (7)

The bowl on the carb is vented to the charcoal canister. It's the larger port near top in front. If all of the fuel was going to evaporate it would do it through this port, although it would be unlikely provided everything's hooked up properly. I suspect once you get your choke pulloff replaced your fuel 'evaporation' problem will go away.

A DVM won't help with measuring dwell. I've used a $30 dwell meter in the past but have since moved up to an Autoxray that reads info directly from the ALDL. More expensive but one of these scanners may be more easily available to borrow from someone.

Before adjusting for dwell you'll need to verify timing (first) then set your curb idle (second) then adjust TPS (third). If you need help with any of these procedures, let me know.

I found a new vacuum break on the AZ site for $22. Search, or ask, for a 'choke pulloff'.

L695speed

I know this is an old post but where did you get that rebuild kit? I've been looking for one for mine. Same carb number as yours. And I assume it worked well for you.

Jeffs82TA

iTrader: (1)

I remember when my 84 trans am was brand new how much of a pain in the a$$ the original carb was. I can only imagine what they are like when 25 years old LOL. a piece of advice though " I know you can't get it anymore" the only thing that cured my issues was a new 1,300.00 replacement from GM but in your case before you tear your hair out think about a EFI conversion or a pre-CCC.

L695speed

I don't want to go pre ccc in case there is somethinig else wrong. And I've looked around. Remans for the 5 speed L69 cars are 800 bucks. I'm going to try my luck with the carb I've got for now. There is either a vac leak in the carb itself or it is all gummed up. I don't want to go EFI because I want to eventually restore mine to factory spec. So the less I change now the better off I am later.

Jeffs82TA

iTrader: (1)

The 82 Trans Am I just sold had this same carb to and it was doing just what your is. I did a complete 1990 TBI electronic and mechanical upgrade to the car. Still had stock air cleaner and looked stock in appearance. However the benefits of far superior driving qualities made up for the originality of the carb. I basically took a L-98 and added TBI so the car still had the carb look and added a 5 speed and everything other 1990 parts under the hood but kept the interior and exterior stock lookingand nobody seemed to care that it was upgraded.

RocketyMan

I picked up the kit from Schuck's. You might know them as Checker or Kragen.

As far as them working...well just read my next post with pics.

And for that being an old post, don't worry...this post isn't finished till I get the car to be absolutely TURN-KEY.

I'm with you on wanting to keep the CCC-carb too! But I was talking to a buddy at cost-less and he was saying they have a holley-reman for $500 bucks out the door. He had to call the warehouse and ask alot cuz it wasn't in their system anymore. :X

But if you need help with anything, I pretty much know the carb through and through. We can compare number of screw-turns and what not since I wrote mine down.

RocketyMan

Hey Zwrench...

So I eventually got around to taking the carb off again to see if my speculation on the bowl leaking fuel out was right. And I was correct. There was a hole in my sealant (it was incompatible with gas I guess) on my secondary metering rods plug. So I could smell gas in the cavity of the base plate.

Learning that, I scraped all the crappy glue sealant out and am now ready to apply JBweld.

The thing I'm worried about is the base plate gasket to the manifold. It ripped up some of the gasket and doesn't look real safe to re-use because of all the little fibers that look like they can be sucked in.

I'm a little confused about this other gasket that came with my kit. It looks like it would be used on the base-plate to manifold. I'm thinking I can use it to cover the thicker gasket since I don't want to buy another rebuild kit. Perhaps I can get my warranty honored...

*Oh another thing is that gasket-air horn to bowl assy. is saturated with fuel on the edges you see it. Is that normal?? Or does that mean the gasket isn't sealing well enough???*

So there's my update. Still more to come.

chads89ta

iTrader: (6)

drill the plugs out and put pipe plugs with epoxy on the threads whle threading them in