RyanEricW

Hello, I just bought my 92 camaro rs, it had a 350ci (supposedly) swapped into it with a carb on top. I am not too sure what carb is on it, all I know is the engine runs great.
The problem I have is, when I hit the gas, it seems like the throttle, or maybe the choke (if it has an automatic one) is sticking and my rpms stay high until I tap the gas (about half way down) really fast, and it is fine.
It is VERY hot outside today, and I just received the car at my house (was delivered), so I have not had much time to look at and was wondering if anyone had a similar problem or knows of a common issue.

Edit
I attached some pictures, maybe someone can verify if this is actually a 305 or 350, and what kind of carb it is. I honestly believe it might be a 305 because the valve cover bolts are in the center, but then again, maybe it is just the heads. I honestly think I might have been duped though, it looks like a 305 but sounds like a 350.
Thank you!

windowrattler

iTrader: (3)

Well all 86 or 87 and up V-8's will be the newer roller block with center bolt heads. On the outside you can't tell a 305 vs a 350 except for on the top back of the block it'll have a 5.7 or 5.0 stamped in it behind the head. Kind of hard to see it with the block in the car.

ymenic

iTrader: (1)

Its hard to see the casting number on the block. You can always take the valve cover off and see what heads you have. If they are just 305 heads you probably have a 305. There is an idle screw for you auto chock, I just move mine all the way out in the summer so it doesn't get that high idle.

Gumby

Thats the fast idle cam for the choke system, the tap makes it release.

I hate that and the automatic choke system, Both get wired open or off on my carb, and I then install a real full manaul choke, with a **** on the dash that directly controls the flap on top of the carb.

RyanEricW

It sucks having to tap the throttle to get it lower, or if I go hit the brakes, my car wants to still speed up...big safety issue. Not to mention, it makes me look like I am driving around like an a-hole reving at everyone lol. I drove the car to the gas station .5 mi away, and i had 2 ppl already try to race me...
On a broken trans.

How is the fast idle cam supposed to function?

I am having a hard time figuring out what some of this on the carb is as nothing electrical is hooked up.
What is that blue connector?
Is the yellow connector the tps? Not needed right?
What about that thing on the left side with the yellow wire sticking off? That wire was terribly spliced into the AC clutch connector, which I dismantled that terrible connection.
The connector on the bottom right? That was also wired into the AC clutch connector, also unplugged that connection.

Gumby

It works with the choke, and can be easily wired not to work anymore.
Just play with the throttle n choke linkage n watch what moves.......

But your main problem is you got a computer controled carb and arent using a computer, id find a non computer carb for starts........

naf

iTrader: (7)

Your motor will never run right with that computer controlled carb on there unless you add the appropriate ECM for LG4s/L69s. It will always run 'full rich'. Although it may seem to run OK you can expect extremely crappy mileage and all sorts of throttle transition issues (and overheating).

Looks like someone swapped an LG4 intake onto that motor. The cross tip bolts on the carb suggest its a pre-85 carb (although that's not definitive) which would have come with perimeter bolt valve covers so it's probably a hybrid.

Your cheapest option, since you already have a mech dist, would be to acquire a mechanical q-jet, rebuild it and install in place of what you have. It'll bolt right up to what's there.

How is the fuel line routed? Is the electric fan in place and functioning? Automatic transmission will require an alternate (other than ECM) method to lock up the converter.

And hook up that throttle return spring.

RyanEricW

Thank's for all the responses, I mostly know newer cars, so I can definitely show some empathy for the guys who hate newer cars as this is unknown territory for me!
For some reason, the plugs on the far left, and the far right were tied into the AC clutch switch, so I dismantled that wire mess, and will soldiering everything back to oem. But since I removed those wires from those two things, I have not had the pedal sticking anymore. Weird.
I will try to post again when I can, I will be going to the junk yard tomorrow and trying to find a trans / other parts for the car.
I figured since the car didnt have mechnical secondaries I was pretty much screwed running that carb...not sure how to rebuild a carb so this shall be an interesting experience lol!

naf

iTrader: (7)

The solenoid on the front left is intended to bump up the idle speed when the AC is on (and under other ECM commanded conditions). Rebuilding a qjet isn't very difficult and there's tons of info and books.

Gumby

You want the Doug Roe Rochester Carb book, its the only one to get.

Now why, he is the guy who designed and built the Qjets for GM so he knows what needs done.

RyanEricW

Why would I experience overheating issues? I thought I would experience overheating if it were to run too lean. O_o


You are saying it is probably just a bunch of stuff slapped together? Hybrid. lol.
The valve covers I have, with that bolt pattern, is perimeter bolt valve cover the technical term?

I checked the local junk yard today, had 5 3rd gens, and they were all pretty much stripped. One had what looked like as a 5.0 tpi motor, might have been a 5.7 too. It had great interior. It was like 3 tone grey, said camaro three times down the seats, door panels, but the car was flooded inside, and the latch to keep the seats from going forward was messed up, and the backseats (bottoms) did not want to come out! I loved that interior though!
Doesn't look like I am going to be able to find a carb at the junkyard though. Any suggestions?

Fuel might have been coming in directly from the back of the carb. Honestly not sure. Will check tomorrow if I can. Know any ways to lockup the converter? Or should I just see if I can upgrade the 3/4 clutch pack when I have it rebuilt?
The electric fan is in place, but it does not work, so when I drive the car around for a good 10/20 minutes it overheats...I focused on fixing the passenger side window motor today, it was very loose, but took a couple hours to clean everything up and mount (not much hand room).

I seen that laying there...and first thing I said was.....wow lazy much? Then again who knows if it just popped off.

naf

iTrader: (7)

A lean motor will normally cause driveability issues before overheating. When running rich, all that extra fuel still produces heat when it burns-without contributing to turning the crank.

Those are perimeter bolt valve covers. Taking one of them off to check the numbers stamped into the head beneath them may give you some useful info on the motor (at least the heads).

There's a sticky at the top of the Carb forum on locking the TC when the ECM is gone.

The fuel inlet is front/passenger side of carb. How is the line routed that feeds it? Take some pics of the motor and engine bay and we may be able to figure out some of what you've got.

And tell me what the eighth digit of the VIN number is, it will tell you the motor the car came with. In the JY a TPI motor with an F in the eighth place would have had a 305. 8=350. No guarantee what's in there now though.

J.Prock

I know this sounds like a basic but does it have a throttle return spring? I know mine bent off and would close but would keep going until it closed it self kinda scarey but probably the easiest fix

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Looks like center bolt covers to me (I'm sure that's what you meant).

The carb has a spring built onto the throttle shaft, but it is also supposed to have a spring hooked to the bottom of the throttle arm in that hole with the nylon bushing into it on one end, and the other end of the spring on the throttle cable bracket behind the carb. Your "tap to get the idle speed down" issue may simply be the lack of that return spring.

Oh, I agree with the other comments that you will never get that carb to run properly without the correct computer and distributor. Putting a non-computer q-jet on would be the simpler route.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, you got me. Was thinking earlier ccc-qjet (cross tip screws instead of Torx) with later style heads would imply that the carb/intake/heads didn't all come from the same donor. Was typing something else.

Although I'm not 100% sure that the cross tip screws were not used on later ccc-qjets. I've only seen them on '84 and earlier vehicles.

Still curious as to what he's got there...

RyanEricW

Alright, thanks for the help, as requested, after doing a bit of work, I took a few most recent pictures.
I have a couple vacuum questions though. I have a gauge that was mounted in the car when I got it, but it was totally disconnected. I bought a couple boxes of fittings/caps, and bought a few feet of hose to try and hook everything back up.
I hooked the vacuum gauge to front of the carb where there is a black cap now, and I am pretty sure that is manifold vacuum as it gets vacuum until i hit the gas pedal.
I hooked the vacuum gauge to the passenger side of the carb to what I think is the EGR was hooked up to, and I think there is a major vacuum leak there... The gauge reads 0-10, sometimes, but def not stable vacuum, and I can hear what it sounds like as a big vacuum leak somewhere.
The white smoke comes out off/on during the whole 20 mins i ran the car today, and it def burns my eyes.
I spent alot of time taking these most recent pictures, labeling them, as I need to know what all these ports are for, used, and components, to know if there is any alternative way to get this carb to work without buying another carb...
Thanks in advance everyone, you are all a big help!

The image below is 3.5 MB in size, so I recommend right-clicking and saving if you want to zoom-in/out on your computer. Thanks!