xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

i switched my car which was a 1988 TBI to a 600 holley series. I bought an accell performance distributor the coil and all that is in one and no computer is needed to start it.

So what do I need.. and what can I take out.

I asked around and was trying to figure out if I needed the EGR valve now that Im running a carb. (I ask this because the elderbrock performer intake has a weird setup for an EGR so id have to buy an aftermarket one)

Someone said I can take out the coolant temp sensor and the oxygen sensors. pretty much all the sensors except for the ones that go to my gauges.

I work at advanced auto and the one guy there is supposedly a master tech. He said all I pretty much need is the wires that go to the battery and the altenator.. and the wires that connect to the power from the distributor.


IF anyone can help me out just tell me what I need and dont that would be awesome.

jchaussee

You need all your drivers side harness. You can remove your passenger harness, ecu and such.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

I dont need a computer anymore?!

jchaussee

Not for a carburetor you don't. If auto, then you will need to figure out how you want to lock up torque converter. I took out ecm, the whole harness connected to it and all my ac wiring. Was a lot of wires.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah its auto unfortunately for now. So maybe I should keep the computer just until I get a manual. So do I need an EGR valve? How would I bypass that without messing up my engine?

Thanks for the help so far appreciate it.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

I actually read somewhere that taking out the egr valve doesnt mess up your engine but can cause pinging if your engine is dirty or something. any help on the subject would be great.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I haven't had EGR in my cars for years. Btw, just make sure you have a PCV valve.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Ok man Thanks a lot. Yup I do just bought new ones.. I redid the whole top end. Bought an elderbrock performer.. 600 holley new hoses.. new valves everything. New valve covers the whole deal lol.

RedRokkit

this is important.....if running without lock up it can damage the trans.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Well which wire is going to my trans that does this? Ill hook it back up. I was thinking about buying this MSD Ignition control module.. it has a rev limiter in it and ****.. Could this thing help with locking it up?

7thdarkangel

The computer locks up while your crusing on the highway in 3rd-4th gear and unlock when you brake. you can get kits for this or your can wire your trans to a toggle switch an lock it your self. just remember to unlock it or you will stall your car.

no. the msd will not lock up your trans.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

You can run the 700R4 lock up without the ECM, using aftermarket controllers or by building your own controller setup.

That is my plan if I go ahead with the TPI/700R4 in my 68, but I may end up going a completely different route, but staying Automatic due to my Physical Disability which eliminate me having a Manual transmission.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I'm pretty sure the trans won't lock in 1st.

7thdarkangel

Yes but i have seen it happen.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

So how did my trans lock up before? Whats different now than before? All I did was take out the TBI and am taking out most of the wires. My computer will still work right?

I actually think thats why were talking about this because I was thinking about taking my computer out. Well if its this much trouble I mite as well just keep it in for the time being and Ill deal with this torque converter thing at a later time. For now Im just trying to get it on the road lol.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That is a failed torque converter, not the tranny locking up the torque converter. The lockup is a hydraulic function, and there is no hydraulic pressure to that circuit in 1st or reverse.

The computer will not lock up the torque converter with a non-computer carb and distributor on the engine. It needs the engine RPM (from the distributor - not the tach wire) and throttle position data in order to command lock-up (also needs vacuum sensor data).

How did the computer do it? A 12 volt power wire goes from the brake light switch to the transmission harness to the TCC lockup solenoid. From the other side of the lockup solenoid is a wire that goes back to the computer. When the computer sees the proper conditions for TCC lockup, it provides the ground for the solenoid circuit. When you step on the brake pedal, the 12 volts is interrupted, de-energizing the solenoid.

For the record, the computer also provides the fuel pump signal. So, if you remove the computer, you will have to provide the energizing signal to the fuel pump relay to get the pump to operate. There is also a circuit via the oil pressure switch, but obviously it won't power the pump until the engine has developed oil pressure.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

No im keeping the computer in.. so if I keep the computer in and re wire everything properly I should be good right?

TreeFiddy

No, by removing the tbi and installing a hei dist, you are removing the ecm's eyes and ears so to speak. It will have no idea when lockup conditions have been acheived.

7thdarkangel

Insted of having the computer make the ground, put the ground to a toggle switch. that what most kits do. that solves that problem.

also if you are using the fuel pump from the tbi you might want to put in a fuel regulator or you will be running way to rich. or just switch to a mechanical pump and not have to really worry about the wiring a fuel relay after pc removal.

plz correct me if im wrong. im at work, im tired and im typing faster than i can think right now. lol

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

No I set it up all ready :P I have the regulator and fuel pressure gauge all set up so thats good. Im just wandering about this flywheel thing now. I don't wanna F my car up now after I did all this work. All im doing is putting the computer back in and all the wires just taking out the crap I don't need. So Is this even going to effect me?

7thdarkangel

You will def be getting a check engine light but... since the engine will no longer be computer controlled it doesnt matter. if your going the cutting out route then just make sure you cap off all open wires. but still the lock up prob wont work because of all the sensors and readings the computer needs. again im not a transmission expert or novice for that mater. but i did just finish what you are doing and the only thing left that im doing engine/tranny wise is the lock up switch.

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Ok... this lock up switch that Ill have to create. Ill use a toggle switch. Where does the wire run from that Ill have to connect the toggle switch to? How will I know when to lock it up and unlock it?! I know your not an expert but maybe you can answer those questions.

7thdarkangel

if i remeber right(i have a diagram i home ill confirm later) the switch will just supply ground. the square four pin connector pin "A" goes direct to the battary with a fuse in between of course. and pin "D" will go to the switch and then ground. this is the real basic way of doing it.


just switch it on when you go on the highway and off when your exiting the highway.

ill get more info on this when i pick up my transmission for my truck on monday.

and attatched is a wiring diagram i have laying around if it helps any

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Thats the thing.. I don't know if they have a 700r4 in here. The engine has a cam and was bored out 30 over this trans is newer one because all the stuff on its electric. So can I figure out what trans it is by the bolt pattern and number of bolts on the transmission pan?

Thanks for all the help so far.

7thdarkangel

this might help a little.

http://www.technicalvideos.com/ident...smission.phtml

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Its a 700R4 but its the 4l60E Its either that one or the 4l80E.

7thdarkangel

FOUND THIS. MIGHT HELP
http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...led-4l60e.html

ALSO

http://www.transgoonline.com/

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I seriously doubt it's a 4L60E or 4L80E. Those require a computer to control them, and the stock ECM is NOT up to the task. And, a stand-alone transmission computer costs about as much as the transmission.

TH700R-4 or 4L60 I'll believe. Most likely TH700R-4.

RedRokkit

You can google "700r4 tcc lockup switch diy" and spend a few days reading and or buy a "700r4 tcc lockup switch kit".... those are the options that will keep you 20 year old trans happiest...... or you could go ghetto and toggle switch it......just remember to lock/unlock it.....IMO if you ditch the ecu you should either buy/make an AUTOMATIC (not toggle) switch for lockup because its not just mph that determones lock/unlock, but other factors such as engine load, RPM, TPS, ect. Ive gone down this "carb upgrade" road 3 times now (1 stick + 2 autos ) and if it was my car I'd keep the wiring harness tucked away behind the strut tower in case someone wants to go back to ecu control...It might be you.

Here is some stuff to get you started

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...c-control.html

Oh and BTW the one biggest flaw in the Toggle switch fix is the fact that you SHOULD turn it off whenever you arent on the gas to avoid "engine breaking" - not drivetrain or mpg friendly........

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

But im keeping the computer in so should I be good? or was it something that the TBI controlled? Everything that was connected to the trans is still connected to the trans? The only thing that I really took off was the ac wiring and there was some thing on the back that had a small pigtail plug in and two vaccum lines coming off of it I don't think ill need that anymore... I have the Detent cable and all that.

I pretty much just reconnected everything that had a home and cut everything else out because Im not going to need them wires.

For the trans I bought a new speedometer (electric) and the pigtail for that plugs right into where the cable would of went on the old one. Idk what the they did to the trans but its an electronically controlled one.

RedRokkit

If you removed the TBI unit you removed the TPS= Throttle Position Sensor= No more lock up for you=Trans over heating and eventual damage as I've come to understand....I'm so glad mine is a Manual

Then go to the trans section and read up a bit, Explain what you did and ask for advise for your specific year because the wiring and switches inside and ouside the trans changed thru the years then buy or build a lockup kit
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...c-control.html<--- DIY directions and store-bought kits inside

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

hmm thats what the TPS does? That's weird. Um my trans would over heat even when the cooling lines going to it? Wish I would of know this before. Ill read into this a lot more Ill throw something together really quickly and hope for the best so then I can actually drive my car. Thanks for the help guys.

So a couple more question. Do I need the power steering wire? A master tech said I didn't because that was for the TBI.. and all it did is tell my car that when Im in idle and turned that it was under a load... which would not be needed anymore with the carb..

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

and im pretty sure.. my trans is a 5 speed :/

TreeFiddy

You're not sure if your tranny is auto or manual

7thdarkangel

you might be counting the lock up as 5th. if its an auto, it a 700

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

LMFAO.. No everyone is like 4th gear.. Im thinking mine has 5 gears lol.. Idk why but Im almost positive it does. No its an automatic hahahaha!

xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

Lol just realized how dumb I was. I just re read this had about 4 people tell me if I remove the TBI ill have to make a lock up switch. Sorry for being so difficult!

imelmo

Are there no controllers like a pcs or something that will completely control these transmissions?

.

imelmo

Nevermind. Just googlied and found some.

.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

And there are threads here on TGO about them.