ChevyCamaro420

I don't get it, what's the difference between a 160 and a 180 thermostat? which one comes on sooner? I'de think the 160 since that's cooler, but it seems like everyone has 180's

Leahs88irocz

160 does come on sooner

180 takes longer to get hot and makes the heat hotter

i think i mighta said that wrong

Flamingo

The number is the temperature that the t-stat opens at, hence the 160 opens at 160*, the 180 opens at 180*, and the 195 opens at 195*. The 160 would open sooner, as the fluid would reach 160* before it reaches 180*.
These cars are designed to run hot stock, and if you have an unmodified computer control it wont run right if it doesnt reach the correct operating temperature. The 180 is hopefully a happy medium from running too cold and wanting to overheat, that's why at least I use a 180.
And if you live where it is cold for several months of the year, the higher temp t-stat means you get more heat out of the vents. For me, that isnt a concern, but for those that live up north it can be a very big factor.
As usual, this is just my $0.02 worth. (if it is still worth that much anymore lol)

ChevyCamaro420

Alright thanks for the info, i think im gonna go with a 180. I had a small overheating problem last summer, dont need a repeat.o

Danno

160 is too cold for electrically managed engines. 195 is the ideal temp for proper engine fuel economy and emission control, but a 180 is a good compromise and does not degrade the engines efficiency that much. I run a zz-4 block with the Edelbrock base plate and runners now with a 195 stat. 13-15 mpg around town, close to 24 on the highway in OD and it passes PA enhanced emission test. Runs like a top. Fooling with temp always reduces mileage and emission control. The complaints about overheating are generally because of cooling system problems or improper electric fan operation.

MdFormula350

yeah 180 is pretty nice overall. i also pass emission fine and my cars seems to run fine also.

GreyFox

shoot maybe thats why my car never gets hot enough to blow any sort of warm air in the winter, it stays around i guess it would be 140

ChevyCamaro420

Well, im not sure why i had the overheating problem last summer. First time it happened over summer it was just the radiator cap, but it did it 2-3 times again that summer, and that's with a new radiator too... i dont know what could be causing it.

ChevyCamaro420

oh btw, my temp. gauge doesn't work... i probably need to get that repaired before i'll be able to tell what's causing the overheating.

Danno

Look on the driver side of the block above cyls 1&3 for a brass sender with a single green wire going to it. It's common for it to come off, you'll see why when you look at the connector, it kind of slides on sideways. usually when the guage bites the bullet they will stick in the high position or peg and stay there. If the wire burns and touched the exhaust manifold the guage will peg, both are very common.