91formulaSS

The old bird has not been cooling as good as usual lately. Took a look at the radiator from underneath and noticed the fins on the condensor are all flattened out on a about a 7" or 8" square area. WTF. I am pretty sure this is why I am not cooling off as fast. What is the best way to fix this without doing any damage? I don't know much about the AC system. I don't even use it.

Rockin-Iroc

These cars don't cool the best anyhow, especially with the tiny single core radiators GM chose to use and the lack of any decent air flow through the radiator and the engine bay. Kind of a bad design.

But I don't know if fin damage alone would be enough to contribute to a noticeable change like that. It could be more of a timing issue than a radiator issue. Retarded timing is what the Feds like for emissions, but it makes the engine run hotter. Also, so does a lean fuel mixture, which could indicate clogged up fuel injectors or an old, weak fuel pump.

You can buy a radiator comb at a good automotive tool store, or perhaps Car Quest. Or you can painstakingly straighten out the fins with a jeweler's screwdriver one by one. I've done that before.

Another thing you could do is simple tune up stuff. Run some BG 44K through one full tank of gas, and also, check your timing. Make sure it's not off.

In my case, I've got a big 2-core Be Cool radiator and although I've noticed improvement, it's not the absolute cooling improvement I've been hoping for. I may still have to install an oil cooler, but first I want to see if I can upgrade the fan to an aftermarket fan that pulls a lot more cfm. It seems that I'm just not getting enough air flow to make enough of a difference.
And I have two big block muscle cars, and both of them cool twice as well as my small block Camaro!!! No excuse for that, GM!

TA5LiterHO

I have found the best way to cool down a thirdgen is

1. An aluminum radiator and
2. A 160 fan switch.
3. A 181 Thermostat if your engine likes it.

Also, do make sure the timing is right as Rockin said and make sure your getting enough fuel.

You can get a stock size replacement Aluminum radiator made by Modine from Napa for about $149. Best cooling system upgrade I've ever done. I have used this radiator on three of my cars and all of them cool excellent with it.

91formulaSS

A little history. I run a 160 thermostat (maybe 180 I don't remember) The car usually runs at the 1/4 mark on the temp gauge (I can't figure out those GM graduations). I have a fan switch in my car (single fan). Whenever the temp goes past the 1/4 mark I turn the fan on. I'm pretty **** about it too. I left the old switch in the engine block just in case though. I just replace the fan motor a month ago because the old one was making noise (like bad bearings or something. I used a replacement motor from autozone, a Siemens motor made in Mexico. I don't think that cools as good as my old noisey GM motor. I sraightened out the fins on the condensor this weekend but to no avail. The car is tuned up, although it runs a little rich. I use 91 octane or else I get knock. Any more ideas?

Rockin-Iroc

Yeah, a few more. Next, I would get a larger radiator. Autozone or Napa, as stated before. But I trust copper radiators more than aluminum. Copper is supposed to cool better. That's not what the aluminum radiator manufacturers will say though, but that's because skewing the truth is good for sales. But time and again, in tests I've read in the car rags and in personal experience, the copper/brass radiators are more effective. Of course, you'll get fans from both sides here and you pretty much have to make up your own mind. That being said, there are a few other ideas.

I have noticed that there is VERY little room for the air to go after it passes through the fan. On my thicker Be Cool radiator, it has about an inch or so, and then slams into the front of the not-very-aerodynamic 350. There is no escape path up, the vents on the hood are fake. So it has to go down. My 68 Corvette had the same problem, until I went overkill on the cooling system. You end up with too much of a high pressure zone in the engine bay, which resists air flow through the radiator. Opening up the vents on the hood and making them functional would really help the air flow through the radiator, which will really help the cooling. My friend with his '87 350 TPI IROC has a 3-core copper radiator and a cowl hood, and it hardly even warms up!!!!!!!!!!!! Unlike me with my fancy pants aluminum double 1" core radiator.

Another thing you can do if these things don't help is to add an engine oil cooler kit. Summit sells them cheap. Make the oil part of your cooling system.

Finally, check out some of the dual fan kits in Summit. You're probably only getting at most, 2000 cfm out of the stock fan. Some of these fans blow 4600 to 5500 cfm!!!!!!!!! That's the next step for me. If that doesn't work, I'll use an oil cooler.

A word of caution on oil coolers. Every 90 degree sharp elbow adds an effective 10 feet of oil line to your system. Use gradual sweeps instead of sharp elbows. While you're at it, make life easier and relocate the oil filter too. Headers smell better without oil spilled on them.

91formulaSS

I have the block off plate removed from the power buldge hood and you can see the heat pouring out. I can't imagine how much hotter the thing would run if I had left it on. Also I have the insulation removed from the hood, but that has been gone for years without any ill effects. Where can I get a 3-core copper radiator? Ar they cheaper than the aluminum ones? Also I heard the copper/brass ones are easier to repair.

Rockin-Iroc

From Autozone. It's under $200.

Yeah, I'm going to eventually open up my IROC vents and make them real. I just have to figure out how to make metal vents that look like the fake plastic vents. Probably mild steel and a lot of welding. Then paint them to look the same.