I have recently bought my TA and have yet to see the cooling fan turn on. I wonder if it has had to come on yet, but I would like to know what temperature to expect the fan to turn On and where is the coolant fan switch on my car. Its a 1989 TA TBI.

stock setup doesn't turn the fan on until it's one line away from the red zone on your gauge. I think that is about 240 degrees.

Troubleshooting the fan isn't that hard if you note that it doesn't come on even when the car is that hot. You can connect the fan directly to your battery with some jumper wires, it should come on immediately. If it does, then it gets a little tricky. You have a fan relay back by the firewall in the engine bay. You then use a wire to jump the switch (which is attached under the motor on the passenger side, likely, on the motor). This will let you know if the switch is dead or the relay. The switch was dead on my car.

If it doesn't come on when you ground the correct wire on the relay, then the relay is dead or the relay isn't getting power.

sorry i can't help more.

Stock set-up single cooling fan should come on at around 230 to 240 degrees. The cooling fan switch is located in the pass. side head in between the #6 and #8 spark plugs. I'm pretty sure that the cooling fan switch is the only thing that controls the fan on a single fan set-up. Check to see if the switch is still plugged in. They sometimes get disconnected or the connector gets melted.

I went to a slightly cooler switch for about $10 from Autozone
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/ds_fans.php?switch=sw505

Great, I did find the switch after your reply when I had opportunity to look under it from the lift. And I think I will use the cooler switch also from Autozone. Thank you guys.

just to clear up one more thing. Single fan setups are controlled by the temp switch and by the AC. If either one of those things are activated, they kick the relay for the fan.

Should have remembered that. If you turn the AC on and the fan doesn't come on, you either have a dead relay or a dead fan.

so i rebuilt my 88 L98 T.P.I; I think I got my cooling fan temperature switch and and my knock sensor mixed up.. either way the connector for my knock sensor I believe is the one that crumbled up and disinergrated and my switch connecter isn't in good condition either. im trying to buy new connectors for the harness and not having much luck for either. one is a pop on style connector of some kind the other slides on... I would post my own thread but I have no idea how.

I need that switch. Mine melted. Would you have a part number on that? I took the one that came off the car to two Autozones, and an O'reilleys and they all tried to tell me it was a knock sensor. Idiots. If you could that would really help. Thanks

Can this be used as the fan switch, or is this for something else? I bought the TS-85, it was $28 bucks!! Is there somewhere cheaper. I found it at 4M. Can that one in the attached picture be used in its place? Thanks.

No, check out post #30 on this and it will show you the differences between the various temp related switch/sensor/senders
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/co...ernatives.html (Radiator Fan Switch Alternatives)

I have an 85 IROC with the single fan set up. My fan is coming on late as well, but I was under the car today and found that I do not have the fan switch located in the right side cylinder head. It just has a plug in that location between the 6 and 8 cylinders. Can someone advise what then is kicking my fan on? Is it the ECM, or one of the temp/coolant sensors? I need to figure something out to get it to come on earlier and stay on longer. Right now it's coming on around 230-240 and shutting of at 220. Any help/suggestions??

Here is a thread by a guy that apparently has the same fan set up as you. Sounds like the ECM is controlling it. Have you verified the temp it's going on and off at with something other than your temp gauge? They are often inaccurate. Anyway, read that thread it might help some

I'm going to hook up a second temp gauge this weekend to see how accurate my stock gauge is. I did not see a link for the other thread you are refering to....

OOPS, sorry, left that out
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/co...-z-owners.html (86 IROC-Z owners, can some one help me please?)

Here is another type/brand of after market controller I found. I'm thinking about ordering it since it comes with the head sensor rather than probe sensor. I'm not too cool with the idea of sticking a probe in my radiator fins like the others seem to come with.

Tell me what ya'll think?? Thanks!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16749/10002/-1

I've got one that probes the radiator, never had any problems after 3+ years. The radiator probe doesn't stick into the actual radiator - it sticks inbetween the fins - there's no threat of any leak if that's what worried you, it doesn't actually piece the aluminum, just sticks inbetween the cooling fins. Mine is the Flex-a-lite, costs $100 but it's the best $100 I ever spent. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31165/

Looks good. I may look into this option instead. I was worried about the probe causing leaking issues... When you put this in, did you just terminate the other wires that previously engaged the fan (from the ECM)??

In my case (TBI car), the ECM doesn't control the fan, the fan switch does. I just cut out the OEM fan switch wire and took out the relay, - the Flexilite kit provides instructions for everything else as that controller has you plug the fan wires directly into the controller - and route a wire to the battery and a ground - you can see the instructions from the flexalite website.

In your case, should be the same - just that your fan relay gets it's signal from the ECM rather than from the fan switch. Won't hurt anything with regard to the ECM - it doesn't care if it 'knows' the fan is on or not - it just gets temp readings from the coolant temp sensor and uses that to mix air/fuel and change timing.

Sounds much easier than messing with different fan swithces to get the right "turn on" temp. The only other question I have with this set up is, when does it turn the fan off? Is there are pre-set temp in relation to the turn on temp that I set?

Thanks for ya'll's input!!

Yeah, don't know what it is on mine exactly - maybe like 15 - 20 degrees lower. The higher the ON temp is set, the higher the OFF temp is (if that makes sense).

Some folks say these aren't good because it doesn't get a head temp but rather a radiator temp which is already cooler. But I disagree. In the case of an adjustable, you set the temp where you want it, thus if your guage is relatively accurate, then you adjust where you get the running temp you want - temp guage is in driver side head, thus you ARE adjusting to the head temp anyway.

Like I said, I really love mine - best $100 I ever spent!

I'm having the typical cooling problems with my single fan 89 IROC-Z. I have replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat, the cooling fan relay on the firewall and the cooling fan switch on the passenger side head. My switch wiring connector crumbled when I reattached it and now the fan doesn't even come on when I turn on the A/C. I can drive it as long as I stay out of stop and go traffic. I've had no luck trying to find a new connector. Does anyone know where I can find one? I may buy the Hypertech unit as it has the connector and comes on at a lower temp. Any suggestions?

I picked up one a while back in the help section of the local parts store (autozone, advance etc). The one I bought was made by Dorman and is part number 85101 (I think)

you replaced the wrong relay if you replaced one on the firewall. On MAF cars the fan relays are near the radiator on the passenger side. On SD cars the fan relay is on the firewall. Sounds like you replaced the MAF relay or the MAF burnoff relay.

search for "efi connection" - ls1 oriented but they had what needed for my carbed car so probably have what you need too

Thanks for the reply. My book states that my fan relay is on the firewall and I have no relays around the radiator. Anyway, I was able to buy and install a new connector but it didn't solve the problem. To make a long story short, my fan motor died sometime during the search for the problem. I replaced the fan motor and everything works! My temp doesn't go over 220 deg on the gauge and actually runs lower with the air on. Next problem is getting the cruise control to work. Any suggestions?

Very cool!

1. Check and consider replacing all old vacuum lines. Even though there is easily >6 foot of the stuff, it goes bad so replace any lines looking suspect like my kid brother. LOL!! Back to target: It's relatively cheap. A hidden spot is the vacuum bowling ball under charcoal canister (look under car near radiator.

2. Look under dash/steering wheel at top of brake pedal for funky plastic on/off switch. Might only take a very minor adjustment unlike my kid brother. LOL!!

the flexalite controller is the one i have used for years with no problems.

Thanks, I'll give it the tubing a try but first a new problem came up this weekend. All of a sudden, my shift linkage (auto) got sloppy. Stretched or loose cable connection? I have to go past the detent and then back into it to engage the gear. I'm going to try to get under it this week. Anyone have any suggestions?

Maybe your shifter came loose from the floor inside the console. Most likely though is the shiter cable has broke. It will get worse fast.

This post is pretty old but i was wondering if anybody could help me out with my cooling fan problem on my 89 RS. its got the poor little 2.8l V6. (will have a blown 400SBC along with a 4l60e trans in a couple months.) but anyways, my Cooling fan hasnt been kicking on. I have no clue how long it hasnt been coming on because my Temp gauge recently quit working. How long should my car have to run before it comes on? Since i cannot see the temp, about how long would it take to kick on? if the fan hasnt been running could i have damaged a head gasket? or the heads? but i have no idea how hot the car has been getting. I took my fan off and completely took it apart. everything looked alright and spins easily. everything was plugged in. but when it was on my car and before i took it apart the fan was LOCKED. but after i took it apart and greased it and sanded the brushes it spins easily. but... STILL doesnt kick on. even after 15 minutes of running in 85 degree summer sun. I need to know if i need a new fan or if i need some kind of switch or what else. and what i would need to do to fix my temp gauge. Please help me out!

Does the fan come on when you switch on the AC?

no. it doesnt come on no matter what i do. i couldnt figure out if it was the switch or the fan.. or both?

First try hooking up 12 volts to the two fan connectors to see if it works. Ground to where black wire is and pos to where black with red stripe wire goes Yor fan should be activated by the computer that gets it's info from the CTS .

The fan is toasted. do you have any idea if i could drive it any at all until i can get a fan?

Not far, only about as far as you would normally go before the fan should come on. Overheating is never good

what if i stayed at a pretty good speed?

That will help as long as your air dam is intact, but if you slow to a stop or near after high speed the temp will go up quick without a fan. Just keep an eye on temps

Might turn off the engine if stuck at a long light.

I just replaced the fan motor in my 89
Iroc. So I can honestly say that 25 bucks and a couple of hours work is way better than replacing head gaskets or cracked heads. you might get by with driving it if you keep a close eye on the temp gauge but rest assured that you will get into a situation where it will overheat on you. Fix the fan now or replace expensive parts later....your choice!

yeah i replaced it before i drove it any. trust me i know the deal with the head gaskets and cracking a block or heads.