anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My upper hose is a little too close to my supercharger pulley. I'm thinking about cutting the upper part of the radiator support and pushing the radiator forward. I can make some small brackets with my metal brake to hold the radiator in place.

-- Joe

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Do you still have the A/C condenser in your car? I'm wondering how far the radiator could actually move forwards?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

No, I removed that. I do have a 3 core intercooler where the ac condenser was, but it's much more forward than the condenser.

-- Joe

pmgm

iTrader: (2)

Can you please post pics of your setup?

Thanks

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yes, but it's changing again. I'm going to cut the top of the radiator support a little so I can move the radiator forward as my supercharger pulley is hitting the upper hose.

Arts89Iroc

Does anybody know where to get an aftermarket top dual fan shroud? I took off both top and bottom rubber support and it still doesnt fit! Dyno Don suggested I take it back out and check the radiator support is bent up, but it checked out ok. Any ideas?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Should fit. There may be some structural damage to the front end. Just a thought.

Arts89Iroc

It's Never Been In A Wreck, And The Only Way To Align The Boltholes To The Shroud Is To Push The Radiator Excessively Against The Condenser.....Not So Drop In And Bolt Up...

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Don't expect to get much help with those caps. I had the same problem too with the replacement radiator. And I have pictures of how I corrected my issue. But I have better things to do than dealing with a sensitive person. Good luck.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Here is the trimming to the radiator support and fan bracket. The radiator is recessed into the support more than normal, mainly to make room for my blower pulleys. But anyway, people had asked me so here is what I did.

The radiator cap clears the hood by 1/4" inch by the way. (checked with clay)..

-- Joe

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

Are any of these 3 core radiators made in the USA ?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm guessing the cores are china or korea, and the tanks are welded up in the USA.

Or maybe they are made in china buy 10 year old girls. Kind of sad when a 10 year old chinese girl can make better parts than come out of detroit...

-- Joe

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

They are built in Lake Elsinore, CA off of Grand Ave. if you look up their adress and plug it into google maps, then select satellite view, you will see that their building isn't a small office. It's actually a large building that is around the same size as a Walmart Supercenter. If you notice that the 3 core aluminum for our 3rd gens model number is CC-951, well the 951 is also Lake Elsinores area code, 951.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

So yes. It's built in the USA.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I took their word for it too, I suspect they probably outsource the cores.

Either way it doesn't matter to me. I don't care if it was built by a mexican, a chinese girl, or a white guy. They are cheap, pass a pressure test, and work great on my 600+hp 412. .

-- Joe

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Why you gotta throw in Mexican???? I'm a Chicano (Mexican American) who was born in Los Angeles. I took offense to that statement. AAAAAHHHH just kidding man. As long as the quality of the workmanship is top notch, then I have no problems. As for customer service, A+++++. They sent me a new one and I payed nothing for the replacement. They handled all shipping fees.

11ellswray

iTrader: (1)

This thread is like a roller coaster ride for someone who already purchased the 3 core about 4 months ago and has yet to install it.
When i inspected it I like the quality at least from what I seen. Time will tell when I actually get it in.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You will be fine.

Arts89Iroc

Where can I find the black plug that has2 o rings on it? Mine didn't come with it

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Call the place where you bought it. Or you can call the manufacturer which I have listed somewhere in this thread.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Mine didn't come with the level sensor, so I got one from autozone.

-- Joe

Jim Tauscher

I bought an all aluminum champion radiator and it leaked on the hot side of it. They stand behind the warranty , but they are sending me my fourth one all three of the other ones leaked where the core goes in the tank on the driver side, same place all three what a hassel doing this again. I should of bought a be cool cost more but put together better,,bummer!!!!!!

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

Going on year # 3 with this cheapo unit... zero issues.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I've used their radiators for my 1961 belair, my 1969 C10 truck and my 1955 belair.

All worked great, and looked great.

Will be getting one for the camaro soon.

onemanrace

Quick update on my American Eagle CC951 version -
It's now leaking from 4 places, and I'm having to keep topping her up with water, until I can afford to replace it later this month.
Don't know if the Champion version is any different (I suspect it's not) but the quality control is a joke.

Dizturbed One

So they're all AE now?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The one I bought was branded victory and I have not had any problems with it..

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Lay the next one ports up on the ground the night before you put it in and fill it up with water.
To take this to the "real life" level you could cap off all the ports, fill it up and put the pressure tester on it for a while. See if it leaks.

Obviously you shouldn't HAVE to do this but like you said, quality control...

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

So I've read about 50% of the posts in this thread.
Do those of you that have the CHAMPION 3 core radiator recommend it?
Not the American Eagle, correct? Or is it 1 and the same?

I've got a carb converted 355, edelbrock crap headers, and Performer Rpm heads/cam/air gap intake. Probably around 350hp....
For now.
Looking for a decent aluminum radiator, but not wanting to spend 500 bucks either. Don't really drag race, have A/C, and like to get on it every now and then. Don't we all? Live in East Tennessee, August temps might see 95*.

Think it will do ok? I just purchased a LS1 fan setup with 3rd Gen custom shroud and bought the Flex-a-Lite Variable speed fan controller for the electric duties.

Would like to know from some who have purchased the Champion unit from Reliable Radiator what they think. I've also noticed their seem to be other suppliers of the Champion unit too.
Is this the radiator you guys are referring too?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Camaro-Firebird-1982-92-Aluminum-3-Row-Radiator-/120949795769?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c292b6bb9
Thanks for helpin out the New Guy.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If you can fabricate a wider rubber basemount to hold and support the radiator and the condenser, I'd say go for it. The problem is that the bottom of the radiator is so wide, that you have to trim off the raised section of rubber that seperates the radiator from the condenser. I had no problems cutting mine off because I have no condenser nor a/c. Hopefully someone else can give you advice if they where able secure the radiator and condenser.

BigJon88

iTrader: (2)

http://www.championradiators.com/Che...ator-1982-1992

maticulus

Just a heads up in case any of you encounter the problem I did with my Champion radiator. For about a year I had unexplained, unpredictable bouts of missing coolant, near overheats and overheats, and one particularly bad incident where temps reached nearly 300 deg by the time I got the car off the road. This is in a turbocharged Fiero but the radiator is very similar to the F body unit.

I never saw coolant on the ground, ever, and couldn't figure out what was causing the problem short of a head gasket problem until I put dye in the system. I still couldn't find the problem until one day it rained and the water washed the dye out from the front end of the car. I removed my cooling fan and the first picture is what I found.

The second picture is of the warranty replacement which has been in the car since OCT 2012. It appears the problem is starting again. The rust colored appearance is apparently the result of a reaction exposed to air as the coolant and tubes do not look like that internally.

You may have to tilt your fan back to check for this if the tank seams are not visible.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

You can get a stock replacement from AutoZone For $100 with a lifetime warranty. May be a good option, not 100% aluminum though. Never cared for the plastic tanks, but the OE's seem to like them. For mild builds I am sure it would be up to the task of cooling.

maticulus

I actually have one as a backup as a result of the last one that failed. My motor is far from stock and the stock radiator would be taxed in the heart of FL Summer not to mention 11:1 compression and boost needs to be as close to minimum normal operating temps as possible.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I need the black plug/sensor. Mine disappeared from my radiator, no traces of it anywhere. I need this part ASAP. Anybody know the part number or at least let me know what it is, maybe I can hook my fan to a new temp sensor there? Let me know. Thanks guys.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Found one on my stock radiator. Good thing I kept that thing in the corner for the past 7 years. Thanks.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

Here's another option if you wanted to do it. Anesthes sent me the part numbers for a coolant level sender that fits in that bung. SU1307 or Standard #FLS1. If you wanted to hook up a low coolant warning light or something, you could get one of those sensors.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. Options. I just put some black rtv on the stock radiator plug/bung and will start the car tomorrow and see how she holds up. Going to hook up the fan to the stock switch as well, since I seem to have misplaced my dakota digital sensor.

georgeflo

I got a 3 core alum on ebay just over $200, came with 2, 80 watt, thin electric fans. Put it in my manual 85 TA with 300hp crate, plastic mechanical fan. Reversed the blades and polarity on the elec fans, and put them in the front as pushers (better for a 3 core). Put a sensor and relay to turn the fans on 25 deg above my 160 deg thermo. No need to run them continuously with the AC.They never come on at speed. Way better than any stock system if you have a mech fan. Does not tax the batt/alt and you always have the mech backup to take you a long way on batt power if your alt goes out in the boonies!

georgeflo

I got a 3 core alum on ebay just over $200, came with 2, 80 watt, thin electric fans. Put it in my manual 85 TA with 300hp crate, plastic mechanical fan. Reversed the blades and polarity on the elec fans, and put them in the front as pushers (better for a 3 core). Put a sensor and relay to turn the fans on 25 deg above my 160 deg thermo. No need to run them continuously with the AC.They never come on at speed. Way better than any stock system if you have a mech fan. Does not tax the batt/alt and you always have the mech backup to take you a long way on batt power if your alt goes out in the boonies!

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

What upper rad hose are you guys using with the 3row?
No matter how // where I look to trim, I will have a nasty kink-- in front of the rad or at the thermostat housing.
I have the Goodyear Hi Miler hoses. Lower went in no problem.
Any help // tips Greatly Appreciated!!
Thanks!!!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I'm using the stock TPI version from autozone. My intake is TPI. When I installed mine, I had no issues at all.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Chevy86 IROC Z.
Reply very much appreciated!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

So I was looking at the upper rubber isolaters & thinking I have to trim a lil bit more. Then I saw the gap between the upper steel rad support & the plastic upper fan mount ( single fan ) where ppl have used inner tube pieces for protection.
So I thought I would turn the isolaters around, so the nippple is in the front instead of the back side.
The lil part of the " L " is now between the rad & steel support. It fits the gap & there is enough to protect the rad from rubbing the steel.
Now I'm thinking since I have no A/C I can trim off the condenser // rad seperation rubber part & still have cushion // support for the rad.
If it works, I'll go to the local yard & get a complete set & re-do them, & drill out holes for the upper nipples.
More work just for fit, but if it does work like I'm thinking, or not, I'll post my finding. It will save future swappers a lil bit of aggrivation.
The idea of using side cutters worked great the first time around!!
Next day off is Thursday....

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Use what you have unless you need new ones.
Install was easy. filled it up & idled for 40 - 45 mins fan works kept topping it off til it stayed up. Never went above 195, manual gauge.
Now new plates & install air dam & drive : )

myroc86

Hey could one of you guys with the champion 3 core radiator measure and give me the rough measurments of the core. Thanks!


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

26.25 x 17 core

31 x 18.88 ( 20.13 including cap )

{ edit }
2.5 inch thick Tanks

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

well being that I started this thread about 4 and a half years ago I figured it was time for an update...

The last 6 months or so I've been adding some coolant to the radiator. it appears its been leaking around the filler neck. Since I'm doing an LS swap I decided to send it in to champion for assessment/repairs/replacement. It should arrive there in 2 more days and I hope to have an answer next week. They said since I was one of their first customers, I was "not in their system" and I didnt get an RMA from them no matter how many times I asked. This has me nervous, but I was told to send it attn: Wendy who handles warranties, and I cc'ed her on the tracking number.

I also called Reliable Radiator and ordered their fan shroud made specific for this radiator. I'm going to stuff a pair of 12" spal fans in there to cool my LS1 with a tvs2300 blower.

Updates to follow in 2-3 weeks when I return from my honeymoon.