CoolingDiscuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.
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I replaced my 305 motor with a 330 HP crate 350. I didn't change the radiator as they are the same stock parts.
When I turn on the AC the temperture creaps up generally gets to about 240 degrees before I decide thats high enough and turn the air off. Once the air is turned off the temperture returns to the Normal Modified 180 degrees. The temperture being this high is OK as it is something that doesn't hurt the motor, but the big problem is the higher the operation temperture the worse my AC works, and therefore the more the compressor is on, and the higher the temperture gets.
I added a 3000 CFM second pusher fan to the front of the radiator that only comes on with the AC, but that didn't solve the problem. The timing is correct, and the coolant is new and full. The radiator is fully functional, and the pump is new.
I'm considering buying a $500 radiator so I can run my AC all the time in the summer heat, but something tells me even that will cause another problem... if you have ever heard of this before or have some suggestions to help remove the excess heat, let me know.
I have preformed a Heat Transfer Analysis on my Radiator and it is running fine for the operation of the engine, but I'm not really sure how much heat the AC is adding as it is obvious that the AC is taking the Radiator beyond its threshold point.
Make sure you get the right size radiator (height-wise especially). I'd recommend becool also. The Summit brand "direct fit" I purchased a few years ago is slightly taller than stock and has a larger outlet, making it interfere with the TPI airlid and it was a PITA to find the right hose.
Your stock radiator should be fine. I'm running near the same motor for three years and no problems cooling with AC even using the stock single fan. Assuming everything cools properly with A/C off I'd look at airflow. Verify that you've got proper air flow THROUGH the condenser and radiator coils. With your auxilary AC fan on can you feel the air pushing through from the opposite side? Are you running both fans with A/C on?
__________________ "A man who voluntarily drives a car like that and still manages to maintain such impervious confidence that it will faithfully start the next time he turns that key is an encouragement for us all to take greater risks in life."
the pusher fan that is in front of the radiatior is pushing the heat from the condensor in to the radiator and adding extra heat to the cooling system. placement is key to fans. duel fan set up like most irocs had. both on the same side. that should fix the problem.
the pusher fan that is in front of the radiatior is pushing the heat from the condensor in to the radiator and adding extra heat to the cooling system. placement is key to fans. duel fan set up like most irocs had. both on the same side. that should fix the problem.
I tried to put both on the same side but it wouldn't fit. Both fans are too large, this is why i put one as a pusher and the other a puller. The regular fan is on all the time as my fan switch has malfunctioned on. Since it is stuck on and I live in Orlando Florida I can't see a reason to have it actually turn off, its almost always hot outside.
As for the Radiator, What should I buy that isn't $500 or more.
Thanks,
Just for fun, how are the temps with the auxiliary fan not running?
Pusher or puller it doesn't matter whether you are pulling or pushing the air through the coils. Heat exchange is going to be unaffected. The air is still passing through both sets of coils.
Actually the tempertures run the same, they just get there faster. An example is traffic driving, gets to 240 degrees in about 20 minutes with AC and Fan one, without fan gets to 240 with AC on in about 13 minutes.
It helped, just not enough... its just too hot in the summer time.
BeCool sells a direct fit radiator for 82-92 TransAm and Firebirds. It does cost right around 450-500 though however...it's very nearly a direct fit. The mods needed are detailed in the instructions and if you have a dremmel and a ratchet you've got all the tools you need. With my stock single electric fan It dropped the operating temp of my car which has a new 350 in it down to the 160 of the thermo stat but it will still creep up with the AC on to around 180-195. ON the highway it sticks right at about 180 with the AC on. I'm thinking of getting one of those radiator cap thermostats to see if my stock thermostat is at all accurate. As I did the engine swap in the winter, I haven't seen how the system will react to 90+ degree days yet but I'm hoping that it'll be enough.
The air dam is there, its just half the size. I don't have cooling problems when i'm on the Highway, only when at idle or stuck in traffic and the air dam doesn't do anything at these speeds.
That's when mine starts to heat up as well though it is yet to be hot enough outside to be a problem. I'll have to see how I answer this issue in July and August.
