SIMON HOLTBY

Correct me if I'm wrong here but on my car (88 Vin 8 Camaro) the passenger side fan is controlled by the ecm and the drivers side is controlled by either a temp switch in the passenger side head or the A/C press/temp switches and as such is totally independent of the ecm.

Considering this why is it in tunning software such as Winbin there are settings for fan1 and fan2 on and off temperatures? Are values for fan 2 meaningless and those of concern are only fan 1 values?

Thanks

Simon

Grumpy

GM code is a series of patches. Well laced together, but often sections are repeated from mask to mask. And the bean counters oftne have the final say on what actually makes it into production. So, there are some sections of code that aren't used, and some items that aren't implimented.

SIMON HOLTBY

Thanks Grumpy, I'll just keep both fan1 and fan2 on/off temps set the same.
I recently converted from 165 to 808 and before both fans came on almost together but now the passenger side only seems to come on but much earlier. The on/off temps in the bin were set much lower about 95 degC I have change the on/off temps to 107 /102

i have had bad experiences of fans runnng too often. Between the radiator and A/C condenser a lot of leaves and rubbish got collected restricting airflow. Consequently as soon as I stopped in traffic the fans would run all the time and I had to rebuild my alternator 3 times due to overheating. Our alternators are about the size of a 60 A unit so when you draw 100A they tend to fry.

Cheers

Simon

MikeT 88IROC350

You are exactly right about your fans, Simon. I have the same ride. The heavy duty fan (fan2?) should only come on when the engine really heats up. At least that is the way GM wanted it.

In TC bin editors, the on/off temps constants are for just the primary fan, one set for AC on, the other for AC off. I had mine set the same for a long time, but recently changed them just a tad when AC is on.

I did some overhaul to my cooling system last summer. VERY IMPORTANT to keep the rad/condensor clean from debris. I also raised my fan turn-on temps just a little bit, since I got a good temp gage put in. I also switched to 180 stat from 170. Plus, like you mentioned, don't want to load the alternator if you can help it!

Check out the cooling it down board, lots of posts on the dual fan setup.

Just my 2 cents, HTH.

SIMON HOLTBY

Mike,

In winbin there are seperate fan1/fan2 on/off temps and these can be altered if a/c is on and also throttle percentage and rpm.
I just remember with 165 code the fans always seemed to come on together but now with 808 only the ecu controlled fan comes on but this I think is due to the ecu on temp being lower than the fan 2 switch plus with it being cold out 1 fan can easily cope.

I'm trying to decide if it is best to have both fans come on at once or in stages

The trouble with lowering the the fan on temperature is that there is less of a temperature difference between the coolant and the air temp so the fan will be on longer. Which frys our cra**y alternators. I think it is crazy our cars dont have a charge warning light as I dont tend to notice gauges as quickly which left me stranded the first time the alternater failed. BTW its the diode pack that tends to fail. Mind last time the small rear bearing had run dry and collapsed. Thank *** they are easy to get too!
If lower engine temperatures means the engine lasts longer maybe its worth repairing the alternator once in a while. But if this is the case why didnt gm fit 160 deg stats? maybe emissions?

Simon