???

i've been searching around and stumbed upon this Quote: KNOCK COUNT - with tunerpro the knock count will be a random number of w/e it detects on startup. This number will not change unless you get a large amount of knock retard. If you notice your knock count going up its time to baby it until you can get a new chip with either less timing or more fuel, whichever it is the motor needs. i didnt realize this was the case and pulled about 2 degrees of advance from the entire upper half of the table to try to get rid of my knock coutn of 42 and the car just ran like poop. is this right? because it seems to be in my case. my logs show 4500 knock count but no retard is happening... well one here or there since i'm still working on the tune. anyone know for sure? cause if it should be 0 unless you have knock i gotta change something.

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RBob

The text you quoted is correct. The knock counter value is not straight forward. One thing is that it is only the upper half of the counter value (on 99% of the GM ECMs of this era out there). So counts/retard may occur and the ALDL counter value doesn't change.

The other is that it just counts whatever the ESC module reports as knock. And does this counting whether the engine is running or not. The starter engaging makes a lot of noise. Most of the time it causes counts.

In this case the ECM won't retard the timing. And it really can't as the engine isn't running yet.

With the engine running at idle knock counts won't cause SA retard. If it did the engine would stall. And, in reality, shouldn't have knock at idle unless something is wrong. However, rap on the block and the counts will go up.

RBob.

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'92 Camaro in Dark Green Gray Metallic

aurum_duck

i'm getting run away knock as well. starts as soon as the car fires on its own, and doesnt quit. havent driven the car to see if timing is being removed, but i'm sure it is, as the car suns like POOP. I had the base timing set awhile ago, and never asked how far it was "off" or moved. also, just wondering if the sensor has failed or the module... wiring appears ok... it runs like hell, and knocks at idle. I've been having some fuel pump issues (hot vapor venting, hissing at gas cap, multi-tone whining and then stalling) so I dont know where to start with this. trans was just rebuilt too. Also, it does the run away knocks with the sensor unplugged, but throws a code and not when it's plugged in??? dont understand that. anyway, advice please!!!!!!! it's a 91 350 tpi.... sat neglected for six years, I changed fuelpump/tank/sender, filter, etc, rotor/button, wires/plugs, etc... so I think it may be time for a rebuilt, or new injectors also? just dont know where to start my baseline on this one!! help ya'll!!

buwamd

this is a shot in the dark but I'd unplug the connector for the distributor, loosen the distributor until you can turn it but not so its loose, then start the car and move it slowly by hand both ways and see it anything clears up. if it throws a code just clear it, make sure the car is pretty warm if you try it. good luck

???

I haven't had it happen, but I've read people say run away knock counts are the chip not seated right. I'd try pulling the ecm down and take the chip out and make sure its seated right. also, make sure the car isn't running in limp home mode. that would make it smell like poop too.

Ronny

Is your initial advance in .bin same as the mechanical setting with EST disconnected?