skwayb

Quote: Originally Posted by RBob I can't speak for $59 because I don't know what changes they made. Although from the above posts it sounds like it still uses async mode, not single fire. RBob. RBob, $59 uses the same formula adn algorithm for the BPW as $58. We just tweaked it some. So QUASI is still there and everything else in the P4 Document applies. Here are the changes that were made. 58 BPW = BPC * MAPP * T' * A/F' * VE * F33C * BLM * DFCO * DE * CLT * F77 59 BPW = BPC * 3Bar MAP * T' * WBo2 AFR * F29x * F33C * BLM * DFCO * DE * CLT * F77x For the fueling, we added 3 Bar MAP, Wideband o2 fuel control in closed loop, VE is now from a larger 16x32 F29x table (it goes from 0 RPM - 6400 RPM and 0 kPa to 300 kPa) and an expanded boost multipler F77x for more points. You can turn all of these features off except for the 3 Bar and basically turn it back into $58 with 3bar MAP. There is also improved Wastegate Support and Boost Control by changing the F70 and F71 tables from TPS% based to MPH Based. This also can be changed back to TPS based with a flag. TurboDig currently is the only coder as Don (1981TTA) has been too busy with other projects. Turbodigs plan is eventually to release the source at some point. RBob, if you feel like helping out, make a post at www.code59.org and let Dig know you want to join the dev team.

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Paul Schwab
93 Black/Black Typhoon #424
www.code59.org - Code Tester and XDF Creator

ty1295

I see my name come up a few times in this thread so I though I would post my take on it.

As mentioned quasi fuel in $58/$59 is suspect. I think stock it was barely functional, when you double or triple injector size it gets really goofy.

For reference I am running a goofy setup. 350 SBC twin GT35 turbos, 84# injectors, upgraded drivers but still in sat. mode (been too lazy to change resistors for PH, well had other issues also).

Even with that I have what I think is a very good idle for the combo. I can reach in and turn the key and it starts right up, idles fine and settles in where I want it. Let a few people drive it and aside from noise/power they all said it drives like a stocker.

At first quasi kicked me, I turned it off and not had any issues since.

So if I can do this with 84's 60's are not a problem. In fact I have helped tune many 60/65 injector syclone/typhoons and had good success. I generally teach new tuners how to tune with the idle itself. Hardest to do right and can't really hurt anything if you go the wrong way.

Last saturday I had someone show up and I showed him what to do and let him tune his own idle, 65# injectors. Having never tuned he had idle smooth as could be, park, drive, AC on, off, etc fairly quickly.

What I like about $59 or any stock gm ecm is I can have a spare ecm riding with me for $100 or less of investment.

RBob

Yes, in F94 both columns are in uSec's (the label and the value).

{edit: I figured I'd mention that you can change the column label names to mSec by adding the decimal point to each (0.488, 0.732, 1.221, ...). That would probably make the table easier to understand. Then leave the "BPW (mSec)" as is. While changing the value column label to uSec.}

RBob.

Orr89RocZ

Bring this back up.

My car is now doing something very similar but it used to run just fine. I have 80lb High Z injectors on a 401 twin turbo. All i did was correct my base timing on the motor and all hell breaks lose with idle. Surging all over, air fuel guage swinging between like 15 and 18, just horrible experience.

So i am wondering if there is something with timing and this code 59. I dont like how it locks timing at closed throttle. For some reason my car is suppose to be at 23-24 degrees and tunerpro is only seeing 21.8. All my 600 rpm cells in table F1 spark are set to 23-24 degrees in the 41-71 MAP range.

My timing before was set abit too much retarded (or whatever way it was). I thought it was at 10 degrees but it was closer to 2-0 degrees i think it was. I had my bin set at 10 and saw tunerpro not reporting the right value. I went to adjust base timing and set it to 13 now and 13 in the chip. Not worlds of problems

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1989 Twin Turbo IROC-Z
"Twin Turbo 401 Buildup Pics "
"FQuick Garage"
9.86 at 141 mph 14psi, street tune

???

weird.. i've only run it on highz 42s so i don't know but why not try setting the dizzy to 0 bypassed and set the bin ref to 0 like the sy/ty's run.. which is what this bin first came on.


why do you want or base timing to be 13?

Orr89RocZ

with EST disconnected it ran very very smoothly at 10-13 degrees so i just left it there. Getting down to the 0-4 degree range it ran kinda choppy.

My 383 last year, even tho on MAF, wouldnt run on with anything less than about 10 degrees. It got very choppy and started to die so i moved it to 10-11 degrees and called it a day. but it had a bigger more aggressive cam nd compression

it doesnt matter what the base timing is as long as reference is set the same correct?

__________________

1989 Twin Turbo IROC-Z
"Twin Turbo 401 Buildup Pics "
"FQuick Garage"
9.86 at 141 mph 14psi, street tune

Six_Shooter

It kinda does, especially if you go into LHM, which your car may not run on anyway, but with timing to agressive in the base, could cause issues here, and if there is enough retard commanded, there may not be sufficiant adjustment to alow for enough retard.

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If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

Orr89RocZ

Well i bumped timing down abit more and its back to being somewhat stable but its on the rich side. Going to let it run and warm up again and see what happens after cold start. All my problems seemed to occur after hot engine but not sure

__________________

1989 Twin Turbo IROC-Z
"Twin Turbo 401 Buildup Pics "
"FQuick Garage"
9.86 at 141 mph 14psi, street tune

???

that is true, the max adv and max retard values in 58/59 are meant for 0* ref. as seen with the dis setups. the ref angle deff has an effect on the min and max numbers. next time I'm back turning mine, I'm going to go from 6* to 0* so that's right. my car won't run more than a few mins in limp home anyways with 42s before fouling the plugs. so not really worth worrying about at this point.