ElectronicsNeed help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?
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Yes my dash lights are out. I'm pretty sure it's the fuse because everything else, pw pl etc, work. I was just wondering which fuse runs these lights, and if i am wrong and i need a different solution, what would that be? It should just the fuse right? Oh and if it matters, my cd player was installed Tuesday. Any effect?
~Matt
__________________ White 86 Trans Am (bought for $800):
LG4, 180,000 mi, 2.73? posi (broken), TH-700R4, Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe, a/c delete, dynomax superflow cat, open-air cleaner, Edelbrock Performer camshaft 2102, valve lift: intake .420 exhaust .442, mild (homemade) headwork, 180* thermostat, new flat black front bumper, Kenwood cd player, Dynomax catback, KYB shocks and struts & front control arm bushings in the garage
In the future: 3.73 gears, SLP posi, valves, springs, roller rockers, new pushrods, Afr heads, big lifter cam, lowering springs, 383 carbed and .03 overbore, ProBuilt 700R4, ram air through foglights, new high stall TC, new aluminum intake manifold, new white paint, new black with red accent decals, and hopefully 12s
Best track time (4/24/02): 16.45s @ 81.99mph w/ 2.44 60'
Daily Driver (bought for $4700):
'95 Chevy Blazer LT, 4.3L Vortec V6, 4WD, auto, 110,500 miles, leather seats, all options, tow package, rebuilt tranny, 3.73 posi, bone stock
If the brown wire (dimmer for the radio) from the OEM radio harness wasn't capped off & grounded accidentally (like against the radio chassis), it will blow the fuse when the lights are turned on.
Only other problems it could be if not the fuse, (which is a fairly limp 5A btw) is the light switch broke or (least likely) a broken wire somewhere off the light switch.
__________________ "You're never too old to learn something stupid."
- '87 Formula Firebird - never ending project
- '91 RS Camaro - *sold
- '93 Z28 - donor
- '71 Camaro LT - as if I need another project.....
- '00 S-10 Xtreme ext cab... new beater
I watched the guy install the radio and i remember him telling me what each of the wires does. He capped and grounded them all. Maybe the cap came off, because it worked for a few days just fine. Thanks though Deadbird. I'll get a new fuse and if it gets blown again i'll go in and check the wire.
~Matt
__________________ White 86 Trans Am (bought for $800):
LG4, 180,000 mi, 2.73? posi (broken), TH-700R4, Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe, a/c delete, dynomax superflow cat, open-air cleaner, Edelbrock Performer camshaft 2102, valve lift: intake .420 exhaust .442, mild (homemade) headwork, 180* thermostat, new flat black front bumper, Kenwood cd player, Dynomax catback, KYB shocks and struts & front control arm bushings in the garage
In the future: 3.73 gears, SLP posi, valves, springs, roller rockers, new pushrods, Afr heads, big lifter cam, lowering springs, 383 carbed and .03 overbore, ProBuilt 700R4, ram air through foglights, new high stall TC, new aluminum intake manifold, new white paint, new black with red accent decals, and hopefully 12s
Best track time (4/24/02): 16.45s @ 81.99mph w/ 2.44 60'
Daily Driver (bought for $4700):
'95 Chevy Blazer LT, 4.3L Vortec V6, 4WD, auto, 110,500 miles, leather seats, all options, tow package, rebuilt tranny, 3.73 posi, bone stock
Actually i think it works fine now. I was driving last night and the lights worked fine. They dimmed and turned off at my command. Before i got the cd player in they would always be on and not get any dimmer. I still need to figure out a way to keep my dome light bulb in. Every time i hit a bump the bulb falls into the plastic.
~Matt
__________________ White 86 Trans Am (bought for $800):
LG4, 180,000 mi, 2.73? posi (broken), TH-700R4, Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe, a/c delete, dynomax superflow cat, open-air cleaner, Edelbrock Performer camshaft 2102, valve lift: intake .420 exhaust .442, mild (homemade) headwork, 180* thermostat, new flat black front bumper, Kenwood cd player, Dynomax catback, KYB shocks and struts & front control arm bushings in the garage
In the future: 3.73 gears, SLP posi, valves, springs, roller rockers, new pushrods, Afr heads, big lifter cam, lowering springs, 383 carbed and .03 overbore, ProBuilt 700R4, ram air through foglights, new high stall TC, new aluminum intake manifold, new white paint, new black with red accent decals, and hopefully 12s
Best track time (4/24/02): 16.45s @ 81.99mph w/ 2.44 60'
Daily Driver (bought for $4700):
'95 Chevy Blazer LT, 4.3L Vortec V6, 4WD, auto, 110,500 miles, leather seats, all options, tow package, rebuilt tranny, 3.73 posi, bone stock
Alright, it's not working again. It only works sometimes. If i push the dimmer all the way up, the dome light and floor lights come on but the dash ones are just always off. It can't be the fuse because it still works sometimes. It gets pretty annoying not knowing how fast you are going until you drive under a really bright street light. Sorry if i'm getting annoying
~Matt
__________________ White 86 Trans Am (bought for $800):
LG4, 180,000 mi, 2.73? posi (broken), TH-700R4, Edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe, a/c delete, dynomax superflow cat, open-air cleaner, Edelbrock Performer camshaft 2102, valve lift: intake .420 exhaust .442, mild (homemade) headwork, 180* thermostat, new flat black front bumper, Kenwood cd player, Dynomax catback, KYB shocks and struts & front control arm bushings in the garage
In the future: 3.73 gears, SLP posi, valves, springs, roller rockers, new pushrods, Afr heads, big lifter cam, lowering springs, 383 carbed and .03 overbore, ProBuilt 700R4, ram air through foglights, new high stall TC, new aluminum intake manifold, new white paint, new black with red accent decals, and hopefully 12s
Best track time (4/24/02): 16.45s @ 81.99mph w/ 2.44 60'
Daily Driver (bought for $4700):
'95 Chevy Blazer LT, 4.3L Vortec V6, 4WD, auto, 110,500 miles, leather seats, all options, tow package, rebuilt tranny, 3.73 posi, bone stock
sounds like typical behaviour for a faulty remote dimmer. works sometimes, but not others. no logical pattern to when you have dashlights and when you don't.
follow the link i posted previously for a diagnostic procedure and some other info on the part.
__________________ Interested in installing a remote starter, car alarm or keyless entry system?
Tired of cranking the manual windows on your f-body? Want to add power windows?
im having the same problem too, but mine never work. they just quit one day. i checked out the inst lmp fuse, there is a label for it with an arrow pointing to a slot, but there's no way to get a fuse in there. wtf?! i liked my lights.
Originally posted by Nasty_Bird_'90 im having the same problem too, but mine never work. they just quit one day. i checked out the inst lmp fuse, there is a label for it with an arrow pointing to a slot, but there's no way to get a fuse in there. wtf?! i liked my lights.
slot on the fuseblock with an arrow pointing to it is for plugging in optional accessories that require power when the dashlights are turned on. with a little more persistence, you should be able to locate the actual 5amp "INST LPS" fuse.
remote dimmer is a well hidden part, will not run across it by just taking a quick look under the dash. be warned, some people have badly mangled dash harnesses as a result of uninformed mechanics trying to fix their nonfunctional dashlights.
underdash work is physically demanding of the human body. get to check how flexible you are too. working under the dash is one thing when you're 25 years old, it's entirely another when your 45.
__________________ Interested in installing a remote starter, car alarm or keyless entry system?
Tired of cranking the manual windows on your f-body? Want to add power windows?
