1990z28

Ok well my vats module went out but I cant find any new ones so what kind of signal does it send to the ECM is it just a 12v power source to run the injectors or what. Thank you

camaronewbie

Main page, tech articles, there are a few write-ups on bypassing VATS - simply resistor placement under the dash.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

The resistor trick doesnt work if the VATS module goes bad. Its only ment to bypass the column/key. The VATS module sends a voltage signal to the ECM on 1 specific wire. I dont remember what voltage it is though. You can buy a bypass module that wires in and bypasses the VATS module itself. Its a simple 3 wire hookup, a Switched 12v source, ground, and the output that goes to the ECM. Theyre like $60.

1990z28

I havent found any for the 305 TBI for 90 i have only found it for the TPI does it matter or is wiring different for it.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=64023

Thats the one you need. Its doesnt matter if its TBI or TPI, the VATS works the same. The only difference would be where the VATS wire is on the ECM connector.

1990z28

Ok does anyone know how big a PITA it will be doing the wiring I dont fit under dash to comfortable so if you can walk me threw the easiest way to do it I would appreciate it.

1990z28

BTW I am throwing Code 53

travis401

iTrader: (1)

It doesnt matter where you wire it in at, as long as you got a switched 12v source, a ground, and can tap into the VATS wire for the ECM. Id wire it in right by the ECM since thats whats is going to be wired into. Youll just need to either find a switch 12v source on the ECM harness to tap into, or run one from the fuse block.

1990z28

Since I have to run a 12v source can I run it to a toggle switch as a safety switch for myself. Make it where the basics of the VATS is still kinda there and just run a inline fuse. If I can do it how do you recommend the 12v source other then the fuse block.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

You can run it to a toggle switch so that its only powered when you flip the switch. Hide the switch and it will work pretty good as an anti theft device. If you do wire it to a toggle switch, you wouldnt really need a switched 12v source, a constant would work too, just dont forget to flip the switch when you get out. As to what wires to tap into for the power, that would be up to you. Ive tapped into the cigarette lighter before to power small things. If I remember correctly, its also a switched 12v source.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...sue-after.html

so u can have an idea of how to wire it

1990z28

I did alittle read up on the VATS and its on a 5v power and if I wire it to VSS wire coming from the ECM I can pull power from it since I plan on pulling the VSS out anyway since its just extra BS and I really dont plan on passing 120 on this engine anyways. So looks like I got to wire up the starter and the buy the bypass, then wire that up to a switch. Any one got a suggest on where to hide the switch just to get creative I just want some ideas to go off of for it all. Also anyone got ideas on a good place for a starter switch push button or toggle. Any ideas are appreciated I just want a few ideas. Maybe wire up a panel with dummy switchs or for other things like my Fog Lights or anything like that.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

Ash tray is a good hiding place, or inside the center console. If you wanna get really creative, you can get an dimmer switch from an old car (switch on the floor near the pedals to swtich on brights) and use that for a toggle switch.

The VSS isnt just BS, its what runs your speedo .So if you pull that out, your speedo wont work. Unless you get a cable driven speedo and convert over. I wouldnt advise using the VSS wire to try and power the bypass box.

1990z28

What would you suggest to power it then since the instructions for the box says it needs a 5v not a 12v.

And I did think bout the dimmer switch idea but my other vehicle is a 81 C10 and I would end up pushing it wondering why my brights wont work haha.

Where I live isent the best area no one has tried to break into my car but if someone ever does I dont want the switch to be in console or ash tray more common then anything I want something you would not expect at all like maybe one you had to use your feet to flip the switch or move the seat to flip it idk I want something out of the ordinary.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

did u read the link i posted^^^^^^^^^^????? it shows what wires to use

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

1990z28

Yea I read it but how to I connect it the way you did and all I have never seen connectors like that for one and also since I want to wire it up to the switch and I would rather ground it where I end up placing it to save wire since I plan on putting it near the switch for easier access since in a few years everything is going to get pulled and wired up with the painless wire kits and run a carbed engine so I dont want to get to complicated in the wiring and I might have a friend of mine do the wiring for this since he is smaller and easier for him. I really would like to have a insanely out of the ordinary switch to use because it looks like to me you tapped into the ECM ground wire for the ground and then tapped into another wire for the power am I correct on that I am not always to good with pictures of wiring since I am color blind and everything so words are normally better for me.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

yes u need to take the wires from the ecm, since the power u need is only 5v and you need the vats wire going in to the ecm to complete the square signal that the vats module creates, as far as the ground you can use any ground that u want i used the one from the ecm since it was closer to all the location where i was gonna have the bypass box...

EDIT: one question is ur car tbi or tpi, mine is tpi thats why i have 3 plugs on the ecm so if you have tbi u will only have 2 connectors, if thats the case find the wire for the map or tps sensor coming out of your ecm, they both use 5v

1990z28

So what your saying is I cut the VATS wire to the ECM and splice in the module and ground it and then parallel splice into the 5v power supply am on to it or am I way off on what you did. And since I want to wire a switch so would I just run the wire from the module and a 5v power source to the switch to run it.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

yup thats it it would be

red wire ----from box to switch to ecm power supply
black wire----ground
blue wire----from box to ecm vats cable

1990z28

Ok thank you thats much easier for me to understand it has. Thank you for all your help I really appreciate it.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

don't mention it, if u need anything else dnt hesitate we're here to help each other

1990z28

Ok Thanks yea wiring isent my strength mostly engine work is my strength wiring is my weakest link so its good this website is here for help. Ive fixed alot of things and got ideas just from people on here. Theres alot of good help on here but then you get into the kids that dont know anything. Haha I am 16 also but know alot about what I do just not good with electrical and coming up with ideas. Haha but Thanks again.

camaronewbie

For the hidden switch - are there any factory car accessories that you don't use?

For example - my car had cruise control, but I yanked it out when I went carb. So I wired my torque converter lockup into the cruise control switch - so now the on/off function of the cruise switch turns on/off my tc lockup.

Another idea, but more involved - mirror lights. I have the rear view with map lights - there are on/off switches in for each map light -could trace those down under the dash and tie into one of them - you'd lose a map light, but no one would ever ever think they'd have to flip a map light switch to start the car.

1990z28

There is none I cant think of now but cruise control idea is neat, but I still have mine but idk if it works so if it doesnt its getting yanked out. And I dont have the lighted mirror. To be honest I dont even have a Dome Light. But thanks for the ideas they are pretty neat. I wanted to wire one up to the seat frame so when I move the seat it would turn on but doesnt sound that smart to do. And since the fact its only temp tell I redo my Maro I dont want to get to complicated for me to do haha but yea I want it neat and hidden.

hoops89gta

i just found this on this site, mesure the diode in the key, go to the electronic store get matching diode, install diode bypassing diode in by finding 2 yellow wires, sodder diode in. this will by pass key car will run. it works

camaronewbie

He seems to think his VATS module is bad, not his ignition switch - so the resistor trick wouldn't work if the actual module is bad.

1990z28

Ive already checked resistance and everything checks out perfect and yesterday I ran the codes and I came out with Code 53 which is VATS module on mine. I checked it since my SES and Security lights were on. I ran the dianosgstics that my manual told me to for the VATS and it says that thats VATS module is bad not the Key or the wiring to it.

1990z28

I got it done but I dont know if it works or not. Your pictures are different then my set up since I got TBI

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

a pic would help... try posting it and ill look at the pinouts n let u know

1990z28

Ill try and get some pics I dont know how they will turn out but my ECM has 2 instead of three connectors I cut the Vats wire hooked it and did the ground and power and it still aint working.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

is it cranking? if not find the starter enable relay under the dash on the driver side. did u use a toggle switch after all? if so check if your wiring is routed the right way

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

I tried for a couple of days to get the VATS bypass module working. I tried every VATS related wire I could find with no results. Switched power and ground wires were easy. The signal wiring on the other hand wasn't. You also need to know if you need a 30Hz VATS signal or not. I went with the dual frequency box because I didn't know. The 730 ECM is supposedly one that needs a 30Hz signal and the 730 ECM is what came with my 1992 Formula.

It will fit under the dash fairly easily with the ECM. At least it did on mine.

It should be under the kick panel behind the square of goo. If it isn't there it could have been moved as it was on my car.

Shoot some pics. We might be able to better assist you if we can see what's going on.

1990z28

I can not get it to crank with the key but I am going to wire up the Toggle switch for the starter to go and the starter is good and the key makes the click noise. And with my ECM is has on its 2 plugs AB and CD I had a diagram that showed what the plugs were and where each wire was I splice into the ground and the power but with the VATS I dont know if it was the right one it was a VATS wire to the ECM but it wasent the normal F10 I cant remember off the top of my head which one it was. And its wired to a switch but i was thinking maybe the switch wasent doing what I needed so I connected the 2 wires and still got nothing and I would get the Clicks alot longer then I would before so I think its doing something but it did go back to doing nothing after a bit but alot longer tell it happend before. I am just going to relax today and not hassle with it. Since I am out of school for the summer and no job I got time. What I am going to do next is wiring the toggle to the fuel pump, my starter, and my fog lights and then do my hidden power switch.

1990z28

This is the diagram of my ECM connectors and what I went off of. They are out of my shop manual.

1990z28

More photos.

1990z28

The last one

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

ok you need your power cable on the C14 and the vats its on the B6 check those two wires... try wiring the bypass module by itself without the switch first to check that it works.... also did u find the starter enable relay??? u need to bypass that one also to be able to crank the engine. its on the driver side under the dash closed to the fuse box, its usually wrapped around electrical tape once u find it take the relay of and put a wire from one of the thick wires to the other thick wire (you should have two thin and two thick wires)

1990z28

Ok thanks man so I did have it wired right. Since I am going to put a switch to the starter I should be all good then when its nice out here since its been storming and humid like crazy I'll get out and do that to make sure its all good and everything. Thanks so much.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

Good Luck... Keep us updated

1990z28

Thank you and I will give updates the best I can hopefully have her running in a few days.

1990z28

Ok guys I got it to run. I took the relay put big wires together and bam but still going to wire up starter switch I just did relay thing first so I dont go wire up the starter switch and it not work so I saved time. I have wired up the vats to a switch, my fuel pump to a switch, my fogs to a switch, all I got left is starter switch and starter shut off switch. But thank you all for the the help its greatly appreciated. Hopefully she will run strong again. But it does lag a bit when I try to start it. But it starts fine its kinda like a slow response to injectors or something.

rsman1992

i am having a similar problem the security light comes on and it disabled my injectors and starter i can touch the starter with screwdriver and it spins if i turn the key nothing email me if u can help nextlevelcustoms903@yahoo.com

rsman1992

i am having similar problems security light no fuel in injectors and no starter activity with ignition i have a 305 tbi v8 92 camaro rs i hear there is a VATS moduel you can just unplug and are good to go where is this located please send pictures and help to my email nextlevelcustoms903@yahoo.com id greatly appreciate it




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camaronewbie

There is a VATS module - it's located way up inside the dash. BUT - there's nothing you can just 'unplug'. The VATS module has to get the correct resistor value it's looking for - no way around it.

If the key cylinder is not contacting the key, replace the key cylinder and get a new key made with the old resistor value.

If the key is making contact then there might be a VATS wire that has been cut.

If the car can be manually started at the starter and it runs, but won't start with the key, then might be starter relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch.

Easiest fix for any VATS problem is to just get the right resistor value and solder a resistor in place under the steering column on the VATS wires www.thirdgen.org/VATS

Guest

hey i just bought that module thing and if you can give me any hints to hook it up would be greatly appreciated

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

What year is ur car, tpi or tbi in order to know what diagram ull need, also u need to remove the panel on the ps under dash board and expose the ecm

Guest

its a 92 rs v8 tbi manual

1990z28

Well does your ECM have have 2 connectors if so I posted my 90 TBI schematics for the ECM. That may help you if you have 2 connectors. But DONT take my word on it since I dont know if the 92 and 90 have the same wire colors and numbers.

Matt1821

My 89 firebird just stopped working the other night, it will crank strong but never starts. Could this be a VATS problem? I noticed when its cranking fuel doesnt spray out of the brand new injectors. ive been reading up on it, and i think maybe when i replaced the steering collomn (i used the old key cylinder and key) some of the wires that i butt-connected together may have come loose and shorted out. would that cause a red flag for the VATS? or do i have a completely differant problem all together?