Hey guys I'm helping a friend of mine with his 91 camaro and we are having a hard time with the VATS not letting the car start. We had to replace his steering column due to it being fubar'd (it came from a 92 camaro). I have already tried the whole bypassing the relay in the kick panel by jumping the A and E PINs but to no avail. After i jumped the pins the car will crank but not push any fuel. We even swapped computers from his 8746 to my 8063 and that didnt work. it would crank and push fuel but not kick over. We then switch computers and VATS modules from the 92 over to the 91 and still no start. Hell... I even put in my EBL from my car and it would again crank but no start....We are at our wits end with this. How do I delete the VATS so we can get his car running? Any help would be awesome.

 

i had the same problem when a change my wiring harness... my solution was this lil box. no more headaches 3 wires and thats it


http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchField=64023

 

This is a common problem (had it myself). VATS needs to see a given resistance, within certain tolerance, in order to enable the starter circuit and give the ECM the OK to open the injectors.

There is a sticky that covers it pretty well:

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

Of course, if you have access to the donor car, you could just swap out the VATS module and it should work.

 

I tried using the VATS module from the 92 and it still didn't work.

Juan, did the car fire up after you installed the "defeat" module? how did you install it?

And just for clarity, the VATS module is located on the passenger side next to the heater core by the computer right?

 

I think that box on pass side is the cruise control box - IIRC the CATS module is buried deep within the dash more in the center or on the drivers side.

Assuming it is, then you currently still have the VATS module installed from the 1991 car - so... measure the resistance in the pellet from the 1991 car key, go to radio shack, buy the resistors, and wire them in under the driver dash like the tech article shows, and see if that works.

 

yes as soon as i installed problem solved basically what the box does it eliminates vats completely making the ecm think that the vats module is functioning correctly... it has 3 wires 1 for power 1 for ground and one that goes to the ecm wich is the blue one for the vats signal n thats it

 

For a column swap, the only thing in the column that makes a difference to VATS is the resistance value of the chip in the key. Even the key cylinder doesn't make any difference, other than it needing to be for a VATS key and fitting the key's cut, obviously. So all you needed to do was swap the key and key cylinder from your old '91 column into the new '92 column, and VATS wouldn't have known the difference, nor would it have cared, and everything would've worked normally.

You only described the '91 column as being "fubar'd," but that's pretty vague lol. Was the problem related to the key and key cylinder? Because that's all you needed here: 1) the key and key cylinder out of the fubar'd '91 column, or 2) a new key and key cylinder with the resistance value of the chip in the '91 key.

 

The column was physically damaged, I mean the steering wheel was bent and distorted. I honestly don't know how it was made that way. Hey Juan, wanna show me a pic of what your talking about?

 

sure i'll take a picture of it tomorrow but is just like the one on the pic i'll take one hooked to the ecm

 

well i got the module from painless but the instructions are pretty vague. how do i wire this sucker in?

 

splice your power and ground wires to this ones (they are in the middle plug)







your vats wire (grey on the painless box goes to the blue one on f10 possition of the yellow plug)






""""""""""""""HOPE THEY HELP......""""""""" GL

 

So let me see if i got this correct. Hook the ground to the black ground wire of the "small" connector. Also hook the power wire up to the gray wire there as well? The blue "pinned" wire from the kit plugs up above the yellow wire in the large connector and the gray wire from the module gets connected to that right?

 

no the blue pin wire from the kit is only if you dont have ALREADY A VATS WIRE
which you DO so when u look at the yellow big connector u will see that u already have a blue wire on that spot so thats the wire u need to splice to the gray wire on the module

in other words U don't use the blue wire from the kit

all the other wires go where u said.

 

UPDATE??????????????? did u get it running??

 

Yes we got it running. I had him send the $60 painless box back in favor of a .99 cent resistor to match the key. Fixed 3 crosswired plugwires and she purrs like a kitten.

 

Brad!?!?!? I didn't know you had an account here. Any luck on finding me an LT1? lol

 

Yeah i've been eye balling this one for a few weeks, its up in vegas. Might be worth checking out.

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/1711332739.html

let me know what you think

 

I've seen that one myself, if i had the cash i'd be all over it.