Instrument Panel Pin Out
03-05-2011, 06:40 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SE Georgia
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: Carbed - 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 - Posi
Instrument Panel Pin Out
Hello ThirdGeners,
First off, my car is a 1983 Z28. We (my wife and I) are 95% complete on a very thorough rebuild. Almost everything was cleaned, painted, replace, or upgraded. And for good measure, we dropped in a 350 to give it a little additional kick! I have been troubleshooting / reinforcing my electrical system over the past few weeks, and have found information on this webpage very useful. I appreciate all of the experience that you guys put into this page every day.
Before I get into my information piece, there are a few caveats. First, I am by no means an experienced mechanic or an expert on the 12V DC power system. Second, I bought my car a year ago for $700 dollars. It is almost 30 years old and I cannot account for wires being moved, switched or jerry-rigged. If anything I say here does not match what other have seen, please feel free (and I know you will) to comment and add your opinion.
My gauges were acting kind of funny so I decided I was going to rip out the panel and test some of the wires back there to make sure all was wired correctly and was grounded properly. Since I did not know what I was doing, I did a LOT of research on the wiring of the instrument panel and all that feed into it. As I browsed the internet and car manuals, I could not find any definitive information that would help me out. One thing I did find was electrical schematics. I like to think that I have a certain level of intelligence, but those things are crap; and you all know it.
So, after spending all day in the garage with my power and continuity testers, I have nailed down all of the pins on the harnesses that plug into the back of the panel. There are two of them, the one on the left is black and the one on the right is white. Both have 14 slots for wires (not all used), seven on top and seven on bottom. On top from left to right it goes from 14 to 8. On bottom is goes from 1 to 7. Below explains what does what.
Black Connector (Left Side)
1. Fasten Seat Belt Light
2. Ground
3. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
4. Not Used
5. Power to Coolant Temperature Gauge
6. Not Used
7. Wire from Coolant Temperature Sender on engine block
8. Blinker (Left)
9. Ground
10. High Beam Indicator
11. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
12. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
13. Ground
14. Not Used
White Connector (Right Side)
1. Not Used
2. Power to Choke Light, Battery Gauge, Fuel Gauge
3. Ground
4. Wire from Fuel level Sensor for Fuel Gauge
5. Wire from ECM that activates the Check Engine Light
6. Power to Check Engine Light and Parking Brake Light
7. Not Used
8. Power to Odometer / Trip Meter (Small LED lights in the back of Speedometer)
9. Ground
10. Power to Oil Pressure Gauge and Tachometer
11. “Tach” wire from Distributor
12. Blinker (Right)
13. Wire from Oil Pressure Sensor
14. Not Used
If anyone needs information how to remove the panel, test the wires, pictures, or anything else just let me know.
Later,
Jesse
First off, my car is a 1983 Z28. We (my wife and I) are 95% complete on a very thorough rebuild. Almost everything was cleaned, painted, replace, or upgraded. And for good measure, we dropped in a 350 to give it a little additional kick! I have been troubleshooting / reinforcing my electrical system over the past few weeks, and have found information on this webpage very useful. I appreciate all of the experience that you guys put into this page every day.
Before I get into my information piece, there are a few caveats. First, I am by no means an experienced mechanic or an expert on the 12V DC power system. Second, I bought my car a year ago for $700 dollars. It is almost 30 years old and I cannot account for wires being moved, switched or jerry-rigged. If anything I say here does not match what other have seen, please feel free (and I know you will) to comment and add your opinion.
My gauges were acting kind of funny so I decided I was going to rip out the panel and test some of the wires back there to make sure all was wired correctly and was grounded properly. Since I did not know what I was doing, I did a LOT of research on the wiring of the instrument panel and all that feed into it. As I browsed the internet and car manuals, I could not find any definitive information that would help me out. One thing I did find was electrical schematics. I like to think that I have a certain level of intelligence, but those things are crap; and you all know it.
So, after spending all day in the garage with my power and continuity testers, I have nailed down all of the pins on the harnesses that plug into the back of the panel. There are two of them, the one on the left is black and the one on the right is white. Both have 14 slots for wires (not all used), seven on top and seven on bottom. On top from left to right it goes from 14 to 8. On bottom is goes from 1 to 7. Below explains what does what.
Black Connector (Left Side)
1. Fasten Seat Belt Light
2. Ground
3. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
4. Not Used
5. Power to Coolant Temperature Gauge
6. Not Used
7. Wire from Coolant Temperature Sender on engine block
8. Blinker (Left)
9. Ground
10. High Beam Indicator
11. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
12. Power for Instrument Panel Lights
13. Ground
14. Not Used
White Connector (Right Side)
1. Not Used
2. Power to Choke Light, Battery Gauge, Fuel Gauge
3. Ground
4. Wire from Fuel level Sensor for Fuel Gauge
5. Wire from ECM that activates the Check Engine Light
6. Power to Check Engine Light and Parking Brake Light
7. Not Used
8. Power to Odometer / Trip Meter (Small LED lights in the back of Speedometer)
9. Ground
10. Power to Oil Pressure Gauge and Tachometer
11. “Tach” wire from Distributor
12. Blinker (Right)
13. Wire from Oil Pressure Sensor
14. Not Used
If anyone needs information how to remove the panel, test the wires, pictures, or anything else just let me know.
Later,
Jesse
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