Derek The Great

So after years of having to go outside and lift the headlight doors up I finally got around to installing the headlight bushing kit from TDS. Well I paid to have it done in addition to my cylinder head install and all that stuff. Well long story short the only way my headlights go up or down when switched on or off is when I help them out by manually turning the motors just a tad to release the tension and then hit the switch. When I do that they'll go up or down just like they're supposed to. If I don't, chances are the passenge rside will go up, driver's side will stay down and then if I switch them off the passenger side stays up. My trusted mechanic said he tested the headlight control module but didn't think it was the issue but I went and bought another anyway and sure enough, no solution found. It's gotta be related to the tension on the motors but it's not really that bad. My ***** are stripped but with the pliers it only takes minimal force and they're loose. What gives?

Derek The Great

So nobody else has any ideas? Should I just try buying new motors? Kinda pisses me off that I wasted money on that kit and my headlights still don't work.

Derek The Great

No one else has ran into this issue? Is there an alternate headlight control module I can buy? If There was one out there that accepted a higher load then I'm sure my head lights would work fine.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Here is the problem; the worm drive of the motor is climbing the threads on the large gear and jamming. This is because either the small ball bearing on the end of the worm drive shaft of the motor is missing or it is not properly captured by the small stub-shaft that is on the opposite end of the actuator housing from the motor. That bearing is very important because it keeps the worm drive shaft properly centered.

If you are certain the ball bearing was in place when it was reassembled, then the solution is to tighten the stub shaft. Here's how: Use a flat-blade screwdriver to hold the stub shaft while you loosen the locknut. Then use the screwdriver to screw in the stub shaft until you feel a slight pressure, then tighten the locknut. If your mechanic can't recall if the ball bearing was there, then the motor will need to be removed from the actuator housing to make sure it is there. Then follow the directions I gave earlier. If the ball bearing is missing I have used bearings available on my web site.

Lon Salgren