Amrish

So i am getting ready to start a project on my 1992 z28 305 TPI Automatic....

Everything is stock right now except flowmasters exhaust and the plan is to get a Supercharged Miniram 383 in there...

Now i plan on getting everything new, and because i haave no experience i am going to have a shop build the engine, and i just do the swap myself, and i plan on doing all suspension work myself(which doesnt seem hard at all for beginners)

Now to the real question... i have a list of parts i would LIKE to have, but the cost is just ridiculous, so i was hoping you guys could help me choose what i reallly NEED to keep up to say about 600+hp... This is what i got so far put together:


Heads: AFR 195's with hydra rev kit + other goodies

ARP fasteners
Main studs
Head studs
Forged rods(eagle) - 4340 5.7” or 6" H-Beam rods
Forged Pistons(TRW) - TRW blower/nitrous pistons
Forged Crankshaft(eagle) - 4340


Cam: 224/226 .571/.571 114 LSA

Intake: MiniRam

Headers: Hooker 2210's - Super Competition Long Tube
headers, Jet Coated

Stall Converter: Blower/ Nitrou Converter: PRO YANK
3600 EXTREME

Transmission: Rebuild my TH-700-R4

Rear End: Moser 12-bolt 3.73 gears or 3.43??

Ignition:
MSD 6A Ignition
MSD blaster coil
MSD cap and rotor


Stewart stage2 water pump - not sure which model to get...
Griffin 1 ¼” Aluminum Radiator
Dual electric fans - who to buy from?


---Suspension/Chassis---

Spohn Adjustable Chrome Moly Tubular LCA's (Poly)
LCA lower mounting kit
Spohn LCA Relocation Brackets (Moser Rear)
Spohn Adjustable Chrome Moly Tubular Panhard Rod (Poly)
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm (TH-700R4 tranny)
Torque arm rear mounting hardware kit
Spohn Subframe Connectors
Spohn Sway bars
Aftermarket rear installation kit
Spohn Wonder Bar (Steering Brace)
Koni sport "Reds" Shocks and struts package
Eibach Pro Kit - performance lowering springs


Now thats a big a** list, hence the name of the project -"will never end"

But what are some things i really dont need and there were a few things i wasnt sure on choosing like 5.7 or 6" rods, dual electric fans, and anything else up there with a ? mark...

Lemme know what you guys think.

Amrish

And the supercharger will not be coming in until about a year after this is all complete... Just incase anyone wanted to know and it will be a D1SC

1991tealRSt-topGuy

going all out except on the tranny


stick a 4L80E in that sucker

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

hehe I've got a set of those rods (6" flavor) but went with a set of Wiseco pistons. www.cnc-motorsports.com has a good price on Eagle stuff for when you go to buy, that's where I got my rods from.

92 zzz28

Whats up dude,

I have started my engine redo. I have been running the Eagle 6 inch rods with a Cola stroker crank, 4340 of course. I don't know which pistons yet either JE or Wiseco. I'm gonna set it up for 9-9.5:1 CR and do the Procharger thing as well. I am running the holley SR instead of the Miniram. It seemed to much more money to me...

I would go with the 6 inch rod over the 5.7. THe 6 give you less rod to stroke angularity which places less side loading on the pistons to the walls.

I have the Hydra Rev as well. I am running dual Spal fans I got through www.carshopinc.com They had the best price when I was looking around to buy them.

Ask around and find a GOOD shop to do your machining and assembly. With all the money you are going to spend on parts and then on the labor to do the work, the last thing you need is some fool messing it all up for you.

Good luck...

Amrish

Thanks for the replies guys...

Looking for a shop is my biggest problem as of now... other than the money... but does anyone on Long Island know of a very good shop that does good work on engine building?

I can go to any shop and sure they will say they are very good at what they do.. but who really knows what they are doing? Any way i can tell my going to a shop? Anything i can ask?

Also, i know i may need to change some things regarding my fuel system... Can someone give me pointers on what i need and what kind of parts to buy, like fuel pumps, fule filter and such.. and who should i buy from?

92 zzz28

I am using a Holley fuel pump and a brand X filter. Can't remember the name. The Holley pump is a Walbro unit. You could probably get it cheaper under the Walbro name. I got mine from Thunder Racing. Other than a pump and filter your lines should fine. If the Miniram doesn't come with fuel lines you can make some out of stock hard tubing or braided stainless hose. The tubing is harder to work with but cheaper to use. The hose is more expensive but easier to work with...

92 zzz28

I am using a Holley fuel pump and a brand X filter. Can't remember the name. The Holley pump is a Walbro unit. You could probably get it cheaper under the Walbro name. I got mine from Thunder Racing. Other than a pump and filter your lines should fine. If the Miniram doesn't come with fuel lines you can make some out of stock hard tubing or braided stainless hose. The tubing is harder to work with but cheaper to use. The hose is more expensive but easier to work with...

Amrish

I am thinking of going with the 255 LPH fuel pump... And i notice it says in-take, and i know nothing about fuel systems for now but i am assuming this means i have to replace the fuel pump that i have inside the tank now with this new one? How would i go about doing that?

And there are two kinds of the 255 LPH pumps... One is just listed as Holley Performance In-Tank Fuel Pump, 255 LPH and the other is listed as Holley Performance In-Tank Fuel Pump, 255 LPH (5.0L / 5.7L) whats the difference? which one should i go for?

thanks again

92 zzz28

The second PN is a kit for 3rd gens and probably 4th gens as well. I got that kit when I did my fuel pump and it had all the parts and everything needed.

Start searching for info about doing a fuel pump. It is not an afternoon affair for a first timer. You may even want to have a shop do this job for you. I would suggest a dealer or a shop with a good reputation for quality. That doesn't suggest that I hold dealers in a higher respect than other shops (cause I don't!!) I only think there are people there with more experience in fuel pump replacement in these cars.

It is not an impossible job but it does take awhile and requires a lot of patience and disassembly. To give you an example, when I did mine a few months ago it took me half the day (5-6 hrs). I went further than some would go and had the rear end hanging straight down by the LCAs. This allowed me pull the tank very simply and easily. Of course I just put up on a rack at work and worked at when I could. Luckily my boss is cool and he doesn't sweat it when his guys fix their own cars at work!!

If you decide to do the job yourself, great learning experience, and have questions, do some searches and post some questions.

Have fun...

Amrish

I was thinking of attempting the fuel pump swap when i am going to change the rear end along with the other suspension work, which would be easiest cause i will have everything disassembled already...

But i dont know if i read correctly before, does it require to make a cut in the tank to switch the pump, then weld the cut section back on?

92 zzz28

No. There should be no reason to cut a hole or anything in the tank to get the pump out. On top of the tank there is a hole for the pump and sender to go through.

blwnfirechicken

I have a p-1sc with zero miles that Procharger claims will support 800 hp or 1200cfm. This is the self contained unit w/o oil lines. I live in Ct across the sound if intested.
I have a similiar combo to what you are looking to build. Not a stroker though. 355ci and I use a cnc-victor and 830hp Holley. rollor cam is 246-248 @.050 and around .600 lift, Afr 195s and rev kit. Lemons headers will be building the headers for me. A pic is under "post you power adders." Bwheaton@mannmutual.com if you have any questions. Later

Spdfrk1990

Is there really a big diff between the 5.7 and 6" rods. I just went to the machine shop today and we were talkin about which stroker kit to get. I was thinkin of this
4340 H Beam rods
Knifed crank with lightened holes and rod throws
K.B. Sig series flat top pistons
he said he usually uses 5.7 rods

92 zzz28

About .30"!!! :sillylol:

Couldn't help it, sorry.

As a general statement, the longer rod produces more rod/stroke ratio to help lower rod angularity which helps to lessen the side loading on the cylinder walls.

Rod Ratios

Stock=1.637
Stock w/ 6.0 rod=1.724
383 w/ 5.7 rod=1.52
383 w/ 6.0 rod=1.6

As you can see you are losing some ratio no matter where you go. THe 6 in rod would be ideal because it gives you back some more ratio.

I run 6" rods in my 383, many kits I have seen come with 6" rods for that reason...

Spdfrk1990

ahh hmm maybe ill ask him about goin with the 6 i just didnt know which 1 was better i figured since it still makes 383 it didnt matter much. Doesnt 1 require more machining and a different cam.

92 zzz28

You will still need to have the block clearanced for the stroker assembly. It doesn't matter what length rod because the rod journals are still in the same place on the crank, closer to the pan rails. THere are many companies that sell 6" rods designed for stroker engines. Manely, Eagle, Oliver, Lunati, you pick, they all make something I bet. THe biggest issue is using a cap screw instead of a rod stud. THis gives more clearace near the cam. And the cap screws are usally stronger, ARP hardware is very durable. The pistons need to be made for the longer rod because the pin location is raised into the piston. Other wise the piston would stick out above the deck. That is considered bad!! Unless you are going for an abnormal amount of lift, a standard base circle cam is fine. I have only had to clearance the block at the pan rail area. My machinist did this for an additional charge of course, yours will probably too. Good luck

Spdfrk1990

Awsome thanx do u know anything about maybe the rings bein different cause the pin has to go up higer on the piston.

92 zzz28

JE and SRP sometimes include a special oil ring if I remember right. Mostly though any rings will work as long as they are the correct size for the bore and ring grooves.

Spdfrk1990

ok i understand the whole reason the 6 rod is better i went though the whole thing in my head lol.

Spdfrk1990

1 more thing does the piston usually cost more cause the rod is the same price he told me.

92 zzz28

The pistons are about the same price. Depends on the manufacturer. If you are looking for a less expensive slug that is still of the utmost in quality then look at SRP. I have used them many times before and have always been happy...