Minirammed 383 is finally done and dynoed!!!
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Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Minirammed 383 is finally done and dynoed!!!
Just got back from my engine builder for the dynoing of the 383! Here's some specs:
Callies Racemaster crank
Lunati Pro Mod rods
JE/SRP Pistons (10.1:1)
AFR 195 heads upgraded (flowed a few cfm's over spec)
AFR Rev kit
Comp Cams custom grind cam
Comp Cams R lifters, Magnum 1.6 RR's
Moroso deep pan/pickup and pump
ARP bolts everywhere
Stewert water pump
Miniram intake
etc....
I arrived and they had the engine hooked to the dyno. With my videocamera in hand he did the first pull.....509hp. Let that sit.....2nd pull.....523hp at 6400rpm!!! I'm a happy man!!! I'm picking her up tomorrow afternoon and can't wait to throw her in the car. Revving that monster on the dyno with only headers sounded amazing!!!
Can't wait to hit the track....it's been 3 1/2 years since I've driven her....but I know it'll be well worth the wait.
- Joel
Callies Racemaster crank
Lunati Pro Mod rods
JE/SRP Pistons (10.1:1)
AFR 195 heads upgraded (flowed a few cfm's over spec)
AFR Rev kit
Comp Cams custom grind cam
Comp Cams R lifters, Magnum 1.6 RR's
Moroso deep pan/pickup and pump
ARP bolts everywhere
Stewert water pump
Miniram intake
etc....
I arrived and they had the engine hooked to the dyno. With my videocamera in hand he did the first pull.....509hp. Let that sit.....2nd pull.....523hp at 6400rpm!!! I'm a happy man!!! I'm picking her up tomorrow afternoon and can't wait to throw her in the car. Revving that monster on the dyno with only headers sounded amazing!!!
Can't wait to hit the track....it's been 3 1/2 years since I've driven her....but I know it'll be well worth the wait.
- Joel
#4
I'm gonna assume those are flywheel numbers, regardless they are some impressive numbers either way.........
I arrived and they had the engine hooked to the dyno. With my videocamera in hand he did the first pull.....509hp. Let that sit.....2nd pull.....523hp at 6400rpm!!! I'm a happy man!!! I'm picking her up tomorrow afternoon and can't wait to throw her in the car
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Wow Z-man, those are some nice numbers.. This is the exact buildup I am concidering along with a supercharged 355. Now I got some numbers to help decide.
Cant wait to see some pics!
Cant wait to see some pics!
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
What kind of computer system are you using and who tuned it?
Good numbers man! :hail:
Good numbers man! :hail:
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Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Hey thanks guys! I'm really excited and am more than happy with the numbers so far. Can't wait to finally get the powerplant into the car and get some ET's after 3.5 long years.
I'm gonna have to scan the dyno sheet in, but the torque made me happy with the peak at 5000rpms with 483ft/lbs.
Here are some pics from a couple weeks ago at the engine builder of the shortblock. I'll have to take some completed pics of the engine soon to post for ya....I know how you guys like Small Block ****
Just to clarify, the actual dyno was done carb'd as the wiring harness, and computer were in the car and unavailable to hook up for the dyno. Tuning still needs to be done once the engine and trans is thrown back in with the new PI Vig 3200 verter and 3:73 gears, so I may be able to squeeze a few more ponies outta the engine. Either way, anything around my 500 goal makes me happy.
I'm gonna have to scan the dyno sheet in, but the torque made me happy with the peak at 5000rpms with 483ft/lbs.
Here are some pics from a couple weeks ago at the engine builder of the shortblock. I'll have to take some completed pics of the engine soon to post for ya....I know how you guys like Small Block ****
Just to clarify, the actual dyno was done carb'd as the wiring harness, and computer were in the car and unavailable to hook up for the dyno. Tuning still needs to be done once the engine and trans is thrown back in with the new PI Vig 3200 verter and 3:73 gears, so I may be able to squeeze a few more ponies outta the engine. Either way, anything around my 500 goal makes me happy.
#10
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Nice pics, a fresh small block does it for me . I'm going to be building a 383 with afr 195 heads so hopefully I can get some respectible numbers. I saw you mentioned those are JE pistons. What size dish are those -16cc? On the same note what did have the afr's milled to? 62cc? 58cc? I have noticed some people using dished pistons and milling the heads alot to get very good results. I'm looking to use similar pistons and have the 74cc version of the afr's milled to 58cc netting a 10.3 cr I think. Also, what kinda and size of carb was used on the dyno? Custom grind cam? Are you willing to reveal those numbers, hahaha. Again, very nice stuff, and I wish you smooth sailing with that motor!
Oh and keep the SBC **** coming....
-Brent
Oh and keep the SBC **** coming....
-Brent
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
dude thats awesome, its gonna be one hell of a beast...
3.5 years sure is a long time to wait, but i bet it'll be more than worth it when u mass that go pedal.
:hail:
brandon
3.5 years sure is a long time to wait, but i bet it'll be more than worth it when u mass that go pedal.
:hail:
brandon
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
I'm gonna assume those are flywheel numbers, regardless they are some impressive numbers either way.........
I'm gonna assume those are flywheel numbers, regardless they are some impressive numbers either way.........
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by unknown_host
What is the fascination with LS1 people and rear wheel dyno numbers?
What is the fascination with LS1 people and rear wheel dyno numbers?
they dont know how to work on their cars.
they dont know dick about their cars.
but they can drive it onto a chassis dyno for bragging rights....
so they naturally assume everything is RWHP because thats all they know.
#15
I do like that explination though. I dont undwerstand why none of these guys do thier own LS1 swaps. Doesnt seem like it would be that hard. How do you explain guys like us then, who do our own work, that prefer RWHP numbers?
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If I'm building and measuring an engine, I'll use engine stand numbers.
If I'm building and measuring a car, I'll use RW numbers.
There's no direct correspondence between them, like subtract this much or multiply by this constant or whatever; each is only useful for its own purpose. ANd there's no guarantee that one engine that does bigger numbers on the stand than another engine, especially if they're different stands and different operators, will do bigger numbers once it's in a car.
Each is only useful as a tuning aid for right then, to see what happens as adjustments or parts changes are made.
If I'm building and measuring a car, I'll use RW numbers.
There's no direct correspondence between them, like subtract this much or multiply by this constant or whatever; each is only useful for its own purpose. ANd there's no guarantee that one engine that does bigger numbers on the stand than another engine, especially if they're different stands and different operators, will do bigger numbers once it's in a car.
Each is only useful as a tuning aid for right then, to see what happens as adjustments or parts changes are made.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by MrDude_1
simple.
they dont know how to work on their cars.
they dont know dick about their cars.
but they can drive it onto a chassis dyno for bragging rights....
so they naturally assume everything is RWHP because thats all they know.
simple.
they dont know how to work on their cars.
they dont know dick about their cars.
but they can drive it onto a chassis dyno for bragging rights....
so they naturally assume everything is RWHP because thats all they know.
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
Originally posted by RB83L69
If I'm building and measuring an engine, I'll use engine stand numbers.
If I'm building and measuring a car, I'll use RW numbers.
There's no direct correspondence between them, like subtract this much or multiply by this constant or whatever; each is only useful for its own purpose. ANd there's no guarantee that one engine that does bigger numbers on the stand than another engine, especially if they're different stands and different operators, will do bigger numbers once it's in a car.
Each is only useful as a tuning aid for right then, to see what happens as adjustments or parts changes are made.
If I'm building and measuring an engine, I'll use engine stand numbers.
If I'm building and measuring a car, I'll use RW numbers.
There's no direct correspondence between them, like subtract this much or multiply by this constant or whatever; each is only useful for its own purpose. ANd there's no guarantee that one engine that does bigger numbers on the stand than another engine, especially if they're different stands and different operators, will do bigger numbers once it's in a car.
Each is only useful as a tuning aid for right then, to see what happens as adjustments or parts changes are made.
Agreed. Horsepower only tells so much, and even then you have SAE corrections and all that BS.
If you want to know who's faster, both at the track at the same time. Period.
#19
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If you dont mind, can you post the cam specs. if not then please PM them to me. I just finshed a 383 buildup and havent fired it up yet. Im hoping for at least 425hp at the flywheel my specs are below
383 hydraulic roller all forged with H beam rods
10:1CR
AFR 190 heads 72CC
JE flat top pistons
comp cams 224/230 .503/.510 w/ 1.5RR
holley stealth ram
holley 58MM TB
FMS 30lb injectors
rest of mods are in sig
what you think I got here with a good tune
383 hydraulic roller all forged with H beam rods
10:1CR
AFR 190 heads 72CC
JE flat top pistons
comp cams 224/230 .503/.510 w/ 1.5RR
holley stealth ram
holley 58MM TB
FMS 30lb injectors
rest of mods are in sig
what you think I got here with a good tune
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by ljnowell
I do like that explination though. I dont undwerstand why none of these guys do thier own LS1 swaps. Doesnt seem like it would be that hard. How do you explain guys like us then, who do our own work, that prefer RWHP numbers?
I do like that explination though. I dont undwerstand why none of these guys do thier own LS1 swaps. Doesnt seem like it would be that hard. How do you explain guys like us then, who do our own work, that prefer RWHP numbers?
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Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Thomas: I believe the heads were milled to 62cc's...the pistons my engine builder got for me...they're either JE's or SRP's can't remember off the top of my head. Most likely around a -15cc dish...I don't have the calc. here, but with a 0 deck, Felpro gasket, and 62cc chambers it'll tell ya what dish is needed. I was so eccstatic when I was there getting it dynoed I don't even recall what Holley carb was used. I was like a little kid there. The cam card is at the shop, but I will be getting a copy of it for my file when I'm there next.
I will be getting RWHP #'s after she's tuned as well as ET's just so I can be even more satisfied the 3.5 year project was worth the wait. I think RWHP #'s are good to know, but the 1/4mile does it for me. That takes the entire car [suspension, drivetrain etc] into account and shows how well the car as a whole was built.
BOTTLEDZ: The specs on your engine are pretty close to what I'm running. I just had my 195's milled to 62cc's. I am however running 1.6RR's, and although I don't recall the cam specs off hand (will be getting a copy of the cam card from my builder since he wanted to go with a little bigger cam then the SLP 51010 I had) I'm thinking they were somewhere in the 230's/230's, 540's/550's. I think on these engine the heads are where alot of the power is unleashed....start with the best (AFR's) and add in a good matching cam and the power will be there.
- Joel
I will be getting RWHP #'s after she's tuned as well as ET's just so I can be even more satisfied the 3.5 year project was worth the wait. I think RWHP #'s are good to know, but the 1/4mile does it for me. That takes the entire car [suspension, drivetrain etc] into account and shows how well the car as a whole was built.
BOTTLEDZ: The specs on your engine are pretty close to what I'm running. I just had my 195's milled to 62cc's. I am however running 1.6RR's, and although I don't recall the cam specs off hand (will be getting a copy of the cam card from my builder since he wanted to go with a little bigger cam then the SLP 51010 I had) I'm thinking they were somewhere in the 230's/230's, 540's/550's. I think on these engine the heads are where alot of the power is unleashed....start with the best (AFR's) and add in a good matching cam and the power will be there.
- Joel
#22
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Z-man -
That sounds about right with the 62cc, just wondering, thanks. I could only imagine how one would feel when they saw their motor pulling 500+hp, I wouldn't care about the carb either. Hahaha. This is making me want to go build mine!
Also, I couldn't agree with you more about the whole rwhp debate! Yes, its nice to see those numbers on a print out, but its the time slip that really tells the whole story. Suspension, drivetrain, tires, *driver skill, all comes into play. An example would be one of those turbo Surpas, that run 11s at like 150, the tubro lag takes awhile to overcome, but at the dyno, they put down like 700 rwhp. I'm more interested in a all around performance car, instead of some dyno machine.
Keep us updated with the build, I'm looking forward to some pics of that engine in the car. Keep up the good work
-Brent
That sounds about right with the 62cc, just wondering, thanks. I could only imagine how one would feel when they saw their motor pulling 500+hp, I wouldn't care about the carb either. Hahaha. This is making me want to go build mine!
Also, I couldn't agree with you more about the whole rwhp debate! Yes, its nice to see those numbers on a print out, but its the time slip that really tells the whole story. Suspension, drivetrain, tires, *driver skill, all comes into play. An example would be one of those turbo Surpas, that run 11s at like 150, the tubro lag takes awhile to overcome, but at the dyno, they put down like 700 rwhp. I'm more interested in a all around performance car, instead of some dyno machine.
Keep us updated with the build, I'm looking forward to some pics of that engine in the car. Keep up the good work
-Brent
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Nice! Sounds very similar to my combo.... I will be heading back to the dyno probably next month (when I can afford new injectors and a few more pulls) and re-pull mine and see what it really is capable of. The numbers in my sig where when my engine was having problems with lifter pump up (read: I am a moron and set the lifters too tight) and dying off at 6000-6100 RPM and not reaching its potential. Should be very similar numbers at the flywheel to what you have.
I am definately interested in what your cam specs are like as well....
I agree that a lot of the power is in the heads as well. My heads are capable of supporting much more than what I am making right now and you can feel it in the way the power comes on. I just didn't feel like buying heads twice and I've learned my lesson that I am pretty much never done messing with this car engine-wise. I'm already planning to pull it this winter and pump up the compression and convert it to a solid roller with .620+ lift. As it sits, mine doesn't hit hard down low but it pulls up top very well - well enough to pull on a 450 RWHP 03 Cobra the other day..... Boy was he surprised to see a thirdgen next to, and even starting to edge him out on the top end!....muhaaaa....
As for this ridiculous debate on whether rear wheel or flywheel numbers have any correlation or which is better; There is a correlation and rear wheel numbers are at least as useful, if not more useful than flywheel numbers. But both are useful when armed with at least half a brain and common sense regarding the basics of automotive fundamentals. The thing is, on an engine stand you have so much to factor in before that power is put to the ground it is much harder to anticipate how the car will do with a given power level in comparison to other vehicles with the same engine dyno numbers. People often forget that there are a lot of components that are not on the engine on an engine dyno like belt driven accessories and full exhaust systems that will bring the power down along with the normal driveline loss. A buddy of mine started to record data from different cars to see just how accurate the rule of thumb 20% loss is and has found it to be quite accurate for manual transmission cars with automatics coming in around 22-23% loss (all depending on the given transmissions of course). Now with a chassis dyno it is all boiled down to power to weight ratio and power bands.... And tuning on an chassis dyno with the engine in full street trim (full exhaust, full air intake system, etc.) will yield better tuning for how the car actually goes down the road compared to just tuning it on the dyno - unless of course you have enough data to simulate all of the conditions the engine will see in the car like NASCAR and F1 teams do and actually simulate all of those conditions while the engine is on the dyno.....
Those cars some of you refer to that put down huge power but don't turn good times are fully capable of doing the number, thier drivers/owners just don't let them do it. It's not the cars/engines fault and it certainly doesn't lessen the importance of what kind of power the car puts to the wheels....
I am definately interested in what your cam specs are like as well....
I agree that a lot of the power is in the heads as well. My heads are capable of supporting much more than what I am making right now and you can feel it in the way the power comes on. I just didn't feel like buying heads twice and I've learned my lesson that I am pretty much never done messing with this car engine-wise. I'm already planning to pull it this winter and pump up the compression and convert it to a solid roller with .620+ lift. As it sits, mine doesn't hit hard down low but it pulls up top very well - well enough to pull on a 450 RWHP 03 Cobra the other day..... Boy was he surprised to see a thirdgen next to, and even starting to edge him out on the top end!....muhaaaa....
As for this ridiculous debate on whether rear wheel or flywheel numbers have any correlation or which is better; There is a correlation and rear wheel numbers are at least as useful, if not more useful than flywheel numbers. But both are useful when armed with at least half a brain and common sense regarding the basics of automotive fundamentals. The thing is, on an engine stand you have so much to factor in before that power is put to the ground it is much harder to anticipate how the car will do with a given power level in comparison to other vehicles with the same engine dyno numbers. People often forget that there are a lot of components that are not on the engine on an engine dyno like belt driven accessories and full exhaust systems that will bring the power down along with the normal driveline loss. A buddy of mine started to record data from different cars to see just how accurate the rule of thumb 20% loss is and has found it to be quite accurate for manual transmission cars with automatics coming in around 22-23% loss (all depending on the given transmissions of course). Now with a chassis dyno it is all boiled down to power to weight ratio and power bands.... And tuning on an chassis dyno with the engine in full street trim (full exhaust, full air intake system, etc.) will yield better tuning for how the car actually goes down the road compared to just tuning it on the dyno - unless of course you have enough data to simulate all of the conditions the engine will see in the car like NASCAR and F1 teams do and actually simulate all of those conditions while the engine is on the dyno.....
Those cars some of you refer to that put down huge power but don't turn good times are fully capable of doing the number, thier drivers/owners just don't let them do it. It's not the cars/engines fault and it certainly doesn't lessen the importance of what kind of power the car puts to the wheels....
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by ljnowell
I do like that explination though. I dont undwerstand why none of these guys do thier own LS1 swaps. Doesnt seem like it would be that hard. How do you explain guys like us then, who do our own work, that prefer RWHP numbers?
I do like that explination though. I dont undwerstand why none of these guys do thier own LS1 swaps. Doesnt seem like it would be that hard. How do you explain guys like us then, who do our own work, that prefer RWHP numbers?
But the #'s on this 383 might make me change plans for the 88 (which is way down the road). I wonder how much that motor would be to build?
Awesome build up Z-Man.
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