laxin

I currently have a 305 Carb with all the emissions crap on it. I was wondering what would be a good engine to swap in. I'm looking for something that has good HP, but something that I dont have to modify the chasis and suspension

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

First, welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

Second, get the "emissions crap" nonsense out of your mind. The computer controlled carb and electronic spark control are actually very compatible with street performance. You aren't going to do better for a system that makes good power and maintains decent fuel economy.

Now, what to do for an engine. A simple 350 longblock swap out makes an incredible difference. However, you need to replace the entire exhaust system in order for it to have a chance. Headers, 2-1/2" -> 3" y-pipe, 3" all the way to the muffler (including cat, if you keep one), high-flow muffler, will make it happen. If this is an LG4 (very likely is), a dual snorkel air cleaner is a must. An upgrade to the intake manifold may help, depending upon the cam you end up using.

Heads are very important. The typical factory 350 has terrible heads. Third gen 350 heads are good, but have different angle bolts for the center two intake mount bolts (unless your carb'd 305 is an '87). But, LG4 heads are basically the same thing with smaller chambers and intake valves, and work well on a 350 shortblock with larger intake valves installed, basic porting work, and properly chosen dish pistons.

If you want something that will drop in, the ZZ4 GM crate engine is such an engine (with the aforementioned exhaust changes). Even includes a good spreadbore intake manifold. Something that almost drops in is the GM 330 HP 350 HO crate - you just need a spreadbore Vortec intake manifold (with the aforementioned exhaust changes). No head problems with either of those engines.

Other aftermarket crate engines are available, most of them are rebuilts. So, just depends upon what you want and what your expectations are.

laxin

Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it, the car is an 86 which i forgot to mention. I have thought about the ZZ4 engine before but I'm just worried that dropping in a 330 horsepower engine, is going to cause a terror on my chasis and suspension and as a college kid I dont have the money right now to modify the entire car.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There isn't an engine that wouldn't require modifying the chassis and suspension.

Tell you what, rather than spend $4k on an engine that the car can't support, make the car so that it can support the power of a $4k engine. You will still realize the benefits now.

The first mod I would suggest, even with a V6 car (see Paragraph 1 above), is subframe connectors. Right after that come poly suspension bushings all around, then box the rear lower control arms (and track arm if you want to get ****). Those things will make a huge difference in your car right now - won't make it particularly faster, but the way it rides, handles, and feels will be like a better than new car. You're looking at a few hundred dollars there.

Next, the exhaust. That will make it faster. Hooker 2055 headers, Catco 9118 cat, and a cat-back for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application will fit the car, fit the 305, and make it run a whole bunch better, as well as support the better engine later. You're looking at about $1k for that, depending upon the cat-back you choose. You could even upgrade the cam for a couple hundred buck, that would make it run a lot better when combined with the exhaust upgrades.

For the record, the factory had a "HO 350 Camaro Conversion Kit" a few years ago - an emissions-legal package that used the ZZ4 as the base. It's pretty much what I did, except I don't have the aluminum heads, and I do have the headers with single 3" cat (vs. the dual 2-1/4" cats of the kit). It was a tad over $8k when it was still available. The kit had some reprogramming pieces for the transmission, and tuning parts for the carb. But, it didn't really "fix" the transmission, as a higher stall torque converter really helps the engine work, and internals such as friction disks are typically weak on our cars as the miles and years pile up. Rebuilding the transmission will typically run you about $1200 or so, a lot less if you just buy the parts and do it yourself. The converter is on top of that. But, I wouldn't assume a high-miles stock transmission would hold up to the extra stress of an engine with almost twice the power you have now.

So, do the chassis stuff now, do the exhaust now, maybe even get a beefed-up transmission or have yours beefed up now. Then, when you're out of college and making the big bucks in the real world, you can do the engine and torque converter.