Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
you could, or you could do this:
4.310" bore
4.250" stroke
6.135" rods
flat top pistons
Patriot Freedom heads
regular unleaded gas
the cam you selected
Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap
Demon 850 or Holley 870 carb
That'll get you over 500 hp, and close to 600 ft-lbs, for about the same money. It'll be way more driveable, too.
400 to 500 horsepower isn't too much of a big deal for that size engine. With fully forged internals, pistons to crankshaft, and 11:1-12:1 compression it can be accomplished with a 454 small block. I'd definitely go with the 454 small block instead of the big block since it'd be a street/strip application. It'll save you a little bit of weight, and have a bit more of an RPM range.
__________________
'86 IROC-Z - All torn down currently and waiting to be built one of these years
'01 Mustang GT - T56 6 Speed - 03-04 Cobra Alum DS - Centerforce DFX - Fidanza Flywheel - Steeda Tri Ax - 3.73s - SCT LiveWire - Borla Stinger Catback - Magnaflow Tru-X Catted X - Black 18X9 & 18X10 FR500s - Vortech for sale, going turbo instead
you don't need forged anything nor domed pistond nor a cam that large to get 500 horses from a 454 on pump gas.
Only reason I mentioned forged internals is because he mentioned street strip. It's common sense that forged would be a very good investment, if you're going to bother with a build like that anyway. I'd much rather do it right the first time, depends on his opinion though, or if it's a budget build.
cam? -cons? The only con of solid rollers, these days, is the initial cost, primarily of the COMP Endure-X lifters ( all others have higher failure rates in street drivers) stiff pushrods, poly locks, et cetera. The cam you propose is fine for street driving.