Finally! My 383 swap
#151
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
I am just trying to figure out why your headers are touching the frame on the passenger side. I have never seen that with Dyno Don headers and I have seen quite a few installed. I was just trying to see if you had to big of a gap on the drivers side. Can't tell from the pictures but maybe your motor is sitting to the right for some reason. Is the motor level in the car? I was thinking if the motor was to low the oil pan would be virtually right on the k-member.
#152
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
1/ 4inch or so gap to frame on driver side, had to push the brake line over with my finger, which was no big deal. Motor is level in the car.
You all can see how close the headers are on passenger side, you can see I smashed the primary, what u can't see it the 1/4 inch notch from the frame. And yes am well aware that the frame will most likely crack. I can almost guarantee. The weld on the primary is still sitting on the frame, after I smashed the primary I have about 1/8 in or less to hit frame. Guaranteed to rub when the motor twist.
Am just disgusted with the whole passenger side, whole mix of "custom made for third gen" and the price tag for it to not work.
Don't get me wrong. I read alot of post where these fit like a glove. And they are the best looking, well dabbed headers I have personally seen. But not my cup of tea seeing what I went through. Idk
You all can see how close the headers are on passenger side, you can see I smashed the primary, what u can't see it the 1/4 inch notch from the frame. And yes am well aware that the frame will most likely crack. I can almost guarantee. The weld on the primary is still sitting on the frame, after I smashed the primary I have about 1/8 in or less to hit frame. Guaranteed to rub when the motor twist.
Am just disgusted with the whole passenger side, whole mix of "custom made for third gen" and the price tag for it to not work.
Don't get me wrong. I read alot of post where these fit like a glove. And they are the best looking, well dabbed headers I have personally seen. But not my cup of tea seeing what I went through. Idk
#154
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
mounted the fans on the radiator, took me almost all day to fab everything up :P
and the back side, cant see well, i had to take out the cross bars behind the radiator for the fan to fit.
and the back side, cant see well, i had to take out the cross bars behind the radiator for the fan to fit.
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Car: 87 Z28
Engine: AFR 383
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
a friend gave me his radiator plastics he fabbed up with a griffin radiator, so its not the best looking but it will be fine for now. Debating if am going to cut the radiator tray or not and fabricate a bottom plate so the radiator sits better. The fan closest to the nose of the car is hitting the top lip holding it from going in another 1/2 inch or so
And lastly the regulator and fuel lines are done.
And lastly the regulator and fuel lines are done.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Need some opinions.
The last time the car was started and ran was about a year ago, Since then has been sitting. Now the question.
1) will i be fine if i siphon most the gas out of the tank then trailor it to a pump and put about 5 gallons of race fuel in it.
2) Do i drop the tank and totally clean it out?
Am not sure how much gas is in it right now.
Back to work! Will post new pics later tonight or tomorrow
The last time the car was started and ran was about a year ago, Since then has been sitting. Now the question.
1) will i be fine if i siphon most the gas out of the tank then trailor it to a pump and put about 5 gallons of race fuel in it.
2) Do i drop the tank and totally clean it out?
Am not sure how much gas is in it right now.
Back to work! Will post new pics later tonight or tomorrow
#158
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Originally I was going to leave original pump in untill I started thinking about the gas. I was going to wait to put the rear in but I guess I mise well do it all now.
#160
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
OK, with that picture I think your motor is sitting over to the passenger side to far. IMHO you have to much of a gap between the steering and the header going by the installations I have seen.
Edit: One more thing. Don's headers are designed to fit with the factory mounts. So with poly mounts and other style mounts the clearances may or may not be the same.
Edit: One more thing. Don's headers are designed to fit with the factory mounts. So with poly mounts and other style mounts the clearances may or may not be the same.
Last edited by 1989GTATransAm; 03-17-2011 at 01:20 PM.
#161
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
1/ 4inch or so gap to frame on driver side, had to push the brake line over with my finger, which was no big deal. Motor is level in the car.
You all can see how close the headers are on passenger side, you can see I smashed the primary, what u can't see it the 1/4 inch notch from the frame. And yes am well aware that the frame will most likely crack. I can almost guarantee. The weld on the primary is still sitting on the frame, after I smashed the primary I have about 1/8 in or less to hit frame. Guaranteed to rub when the motor twist.
Am just disgusted with the whole passenger side, whole mix of "custom made for third gen" and the price tag for it to not work.
Don't get me wrong. I read alot of post where these fit like a glove. And they are the best looking, well dabbed headers I have personally seen. But not my cup of tea seeing what I went through. Idk
You all can see how close the headers are on passenger side, you can see I smashed the primary, what u can't see it the 1/4 inch notch from the frame. And yes am well aware that the frame will most likely crack. I can almost guarantee. The weld on the primary is still sitting on the frame, after I smashed the primary I have about 1/8 in or less to hit frame. Guaranteed to rub when the motor twist.
Am just disgusted with the whole passenger side, whole mix of "custom made for third gen" and the price tag for it to not work.
Don't get me wrong. I read alot of post where these fit like a glove. And they are the best looking, well dabbed headers I have personally seen. But not my cup of tea seeing what I went through. Idk
The only time there has been an issue that I know of, the guy was using poly motor mounts. He got rid of those and everything fit fine.
Obviously I designed the headers to fit with stock mounts, if they didn't make the mounts like stock specs, then I don't have an answer for you.
I just finished installing a set on a '84 Firebird T/A, no issues.
#164
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Well this is how I might see it. If I used stock mounts, passenger side might fit, but the driver side would hit. As u can see its only 1/4 till it hits. The car is straight, never been hit. It is what it is.
Now will I have a prob with your Y don or do I need a custom one made?
Now will I have a prob with your Y don or do I need a custom one made?
#166
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
As you can see by those pics, there is no problem.
If you have issues with the fit of the headers, then yes, you will have problems with the Y-pipe.
There has to be something wrong.
I have too many of these out there that fit right.
If you have issues with the fit of the headers, then yes, you will have problems with the Y-pipe.
There has to be something wrong.
I have too many of these out there that fit right.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Lx4gxp.
Can you switch back to another mount just to check. Pain in the arsola, but it would eliminate one variable!
Grab a sixer and get under there!
Can you switch back to another mount just to check. Pain in the arsola, but it would eliminate one variable!
Grab a sixer and get under there!
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
And dont think this is a bash post on your headers, because its not ment for that by all means. Ill be first to step up and say its a great header, am just having a few issues lol
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Lx4gxp.
Can you switch back to another mount just to check. Pain in the arsola, but it would eliminate one variable!
Grab a sixer and get under there!
Can you switch back to another mount just to check. Pain in the arsola, but it would eliminate one variable!
Grab a sixer and get under there!
Last edited by LS4GXP; 03-17-2011 at 06:52 PM.
#172
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
acouple more pics, passenger side
if the motor sagged down 1/4 inch or alittle more it would hit
if the motor sagged down 1/4 inch or alittle more it would hit
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
I just googled some pics of the headers and came across another one that looks different then mine. The gap between 4 and 6 primary is alot larger then mine. Not sure why air tubes would be different but those were. Ill post a side by side of the 2 when I get to a comp
#175
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
yeah they do look alittle different to me as well... but in your pic, try moving the camera point down 6 inches and right 10 inches to get a shot down the frame rail more pointing at the AC box outlet like DynoDon has done. Middle primaries look different
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
My middles look diiferent as well.... Maybe Dyno Don can clear it up, wondering if they changed the design? 6 primary now goes over 4, instead of behind. If it does not change the overall width out from the flange it would be fine.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Unfortunately I went back to nj and not by my car, wont be untill next weekend
Last edited by LS4GXP; 03-17-2011 at 11:36 PM.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
I am sure Dyno Don will clear it up.
Last edited by gbayfisher; 03-17-2011 at 11:33 PM.
#180
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
am sure he will, he's a great guy, but i still say the primaries are longer from the pictures
the pic you posted is what i was talking about
the pic you posted is what i was talking about
#181
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Yep, my bad....
The picture I posted was the early design, 2 1/2 years ago I ran into a different set of AFR heads that have a different plug angle. At that time I changed the design so the they would fit all head combos out there.
The jig that these are built on was changed at that time and every set from then on has been built on that jig.
I hope you can find out what the problem is and clear this up.
I will try to get a current picture with the new design and post it up.
http://www.digitalpixeldump.com/data...sign_RT.sm.JPG
The picture I posted was the early design, 2 1/2 years ago I ran into a different set of AFR heads that have a different plug angle. At that time I changed the design so the they would fit all head combos out there.
The jig that these are built on was changed at that time and every set from then on has been built on that jig.
I hope you can find out what the problem is and clear this up.
I will try to get a current picture with the new design and post it up.
http://www.digitalpixeldump.com/data...sign_RT.sm.JPG
Last edited by Dyno Don; 03-18-2011 at 11:06 AM. Reason: added picture
#182
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
theres not much i can do to clear it up. If i switch motor mounts to stock the motor would sit lower. If the driver side drops any then it would hit. If the motor came over alittle to the driver side any more it would hit, i only have about 1/4 inch play on the drivers side both down, and to the right.
I just dont understand how the driver side is a tight snug fit with barely any room to spare ( wont hit nothing tho ) and the passenger side is off by over 1/2 inch if not 3/4
I just dont understand how the driver side is a tight snug fit with barely any room to spare ( wont hit nothing tho ) and the passenger side is off by over 1/2 inch if not 3/4
#183
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Here are some pictures with the headers installed on a '91 Camaro.
Here also are some pictures of the different cradles that bolt on to the motor,
look closely, you can see the difference, one is wider than the other.
If you get them on the wrong sides, it will move the motor a 1/2" to the right.
The shine is gone off the headers because he let the timimg slip and the retarded spark over heated the tubes.
Here also are some pictures of the different cradles that bolt on to the motor,
look closely, you can see the difference, one is wider than the other.
If you get them on the wrong sides, it will move the motor a 1/2" to the right.
The shine is gone off the headers because he let the timimg slip and the retarded spark over heated the tubes.
Last edited by Dyno Don; 03-18-2011 at 12:59 PM.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Idk, looking at my driver side photo from top and bottom I don't have 1/2 inch to move the motor over. Only thing I can do is try it I suppose
#187
Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Finally, we got the motor mount thing figured out! Thanks Don! Those might as well be my motor mounts, same numbers stamped, and the stamp didn't work so great on one mount . The total difference in length from oil pan rail to center of bolt hole is 5/16". Which seems like its not enough to matter in most cases, but hey, its worth a shot man.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Don any clue when your Y pipes are available? Am hoping what you guys are saying that the mounts are on wrong and it will clear this up. When people said motor mounts are swiotched it confused me, but if it was the motor mount plate thats a different story
Am going to google the correct positions of the mount now, chime in if you know already just so i can confirm it
Am going to google the correct positions of the mount now, chime in if you know already just so i can confirm it
#189
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Sooo
I. Called the guy I got the motor mount plates from. He had no clue there was a left and right plate. On top of that the ones he gave me were from a 1980 camaro......
Sorry for all the confusion don! I feel like an ***
I. Called the guy I got the motor mount plates from. He had no clue there was a left and right plate. On top of that the ones he gave me were from a 1980 camaro......
Sorry for all the confusion don! I feel like an ***
#190
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Update..........
She fired up. Took a whole 3-4 cranks before she took her first breath. Ran into problems which we figured out and fixed.
1) Dead fuel pump, no power to starter
Solution: Computer needed to be plugged in :P
2) Fuel pressure would jump up to 7-9psi then go dead, carb would fill up with fuel, start up, then die after 2 minutes.
Solution: Fuel pump would prime the system then shut off completely, Spliced the power wire and ran it into the fuse box, then to a switch. I now have to toggle the fuel pump on and off. No biggy as am going to have the 2 5/8 autometer fuel pressure guage mounted under the cowl.
3) A couple of fuel leaks we fixed, one in the carb and one on the rail. No big problem
4) Had to adjust the fuel level in the carb. We put the primary 1/2 way, and the secondary about 1/2 way in the side window.
5) I dropped a Spark plug and have an arch on 5th cylinder
Solution: brought it back and said it was defective :P
6) Fans draw a TON of power when they turn on, and it blew 1 fuel pump fuse already. We need to fix that still.
7) Put the correct Motor Plates on the motor, I had the numbers switched. But still had a problem. It looks like i didnt need to bash the primary in at all ( dent wasnt bad anyways ) But the weld on the collector still would not clear the frame rail. No Matter what i did i would of had to still notch the frame for the weld. Before the weld and primary were touching tight on the frame, now the primary and weld have day light through them. Very little on the weld though.
All and all was a great Saturday and Sunday. I Ran both my 16inch fans on a relay switch to turn on at 190, and turn off at 160. I think i went overkill on the cooling though. No lie it takes about 30-45 seconds to go from 190 down to 160. I had the car idealing around 900rpm, 70-80PSI oil pressure, fans turn on the car drops to 500ish, oil drops to 35ish lol. Last the 30 secs and we good to go again. Am going to buy a optimum deep dish battery and see if it helps, if not i might rewire 1 fan and put it on a toggle switch. Am not sure if i even need it at this point, but it draws ALOT of power. The car is at 34 degrees timing right now, i wanted to fix the spark plug before we dialed it in any more. She needs alittle more tuning.
Final Result:
Bad *** sounding 383 open headers lol
She fired up. Took a whole 3-4 cranks before she took her first breath. Ran into problems which we figured out and fixed.
1) Dead fuel pump, no power to starter
Solution: Computer needed to be plugged in :P
2) Fuel pressure would jump up to 7-9psi then go dead, carb would fill up with fuel, start up, then die after 2 minutes.
Solution: Fuel pump would prime the system then shut off completely, Spliced the power wire and ran it into the fuse box, then to a switch. I now have to toggle the fuel pump on and off. No biggy as am going to have the 2 5/8 autometer fuel pressure guage mounted under the cowl.
3) A couple of fuel leaks we fixed, one in the carb and one on the rail. No big problem
4) Had to adjust the fuel level in the carb. We put the primary 1/2 way, and the secondary about 1/2 way in the side window.
5) I dropped a Spark plug and have an arch on 5th cylinder
Solution: brought it back and said it was defective :P
6) Fans draw a TON of power when they turn on, and it blew 1 fuel pump fuse already. We need to fix that still.
7) Put the correct Motor Plates on the motor, I had the numbers switched. But still had a problem. It looks like i didnt need to bash the primary in at all ( dent wasnt bad anyways ) But the weld on the collector still would not clear the frame rail. No Matter what i did i would of had to still notch the frame for the weld. Before the weld and primary were touching tight on the frame, now the primary and weld have day light through them. Very little on the weld though.
All and all was a great Saturday and Sunday. I Ran both my 16inch fans on a relay switch to turn on at 190, and turn off at 160. I think i went overkill on the cooling though. No lie it takes about 30-45 seconds to go from 190 down to 160. I had the car idealing around 900rpm, 70-80PSI oil pressure, fans turn on the car drops to 500ish, oil drops to 35ish lol. Last the 30 secs and we good to go again. Am going to buy a optimum deep dish battery and see if it helps, if not i might rewire 1 fan and put it on a toggle switch. Am not sure if i even need it at this point, but it draws ALOT of power. The car is at 34 degrees timing right now, i wanted to fix the spark plug before we dialed it in any more. She needs alittle more tuning.
Final Result:
Bad *** sounding 383 open headers lol
Last edited by LS4GXP; 03-27-2011 at 09:58 PM.
#191
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
To do List:
- Talk to Don about a Ypipe, not sure if its going to work yet.
- Run the Catback and find a stock looking tailpipe
- Hook up B@M shifter
- Fix the power output on fans
Interior is staying out untill late summer or fall. I want the sub frame connectors on and roll cage before i decide to work backwards. The way the motor sounds the interior wont bother me not having any
I have a video while we were messing with the fuel level of the carb. It is 74.5mb. If its not too big ill post it but need help on that. I tried to upload it on photobucket but it took 5 min for 2% complete. Is this normal does anyone know? Any other way i could post it for you guys?
- Talk to Don about a Ypipe, not sure if its going to work yet.
- Run the Catback and find a stock looking tailpipe
- Hook up B@M shifter
- Fix the power output on fans
Interior is staying out untill late summer or fall. I want the sub frame connectors on and roll cage before i decide to work backwards. The way the motor sounds the interior wont bother me not having any
I have a video while we were messing with the fuel level of the carb. It is 74.5mb. If its not too big ill post it but need help on that. I tried to upload it on photobucket but it took 5 min for 2% complete. Is this normal does anyone know? Any other way i could post it for you guys?
Last edited by LS4GXP; 03-27-2011 at 10:00 PM.
#193
Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Man, I am envious. Good to hear you got er running!
My 383 is still sitting on the stand. I'm waiting on a few odds and ends, and I gotta finish fabricating my valve covers and serpentine belt idler/tensioner bracket.
My 383 is still sitting on the stand. I'm waiting on a few odds and ends, and I gotta finish fabricating my valve covers and serpentine belt idler/tensioner bracket.
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
i took it with my Verizon Droid X phone. It was a 3GP file that i switched to Mpeg. Am such a noob with video editing, i want to post it but not sure how lol
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Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Not sure , been wondering myself if the video needs to be linked to a video web hosting site?
Last edited by gbayfisher; 03-30-2011 at 05:54 AM.
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Car: 87 Z28
Engine: AFR 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4:11
Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Here we go....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv_L3m1N6D0
thanks to gbayfisher for giving me the motivation to post the video lol
We found a fuel leak on the carb at the end of the video which we fixed. This was not dialed in at the time. I had a bad spark plug ( kinda dropped it on the ground lol ) Once i get my Y pipe from Don she will be on the road.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv_L3m1N6D0
thanks to gbayfisher for giving me the motivation to post the video lol
We found a fuel leak on the carb at the end of the video which we fixed. This was not dialed in at the time. I had a bad spark plug ( kinda dropped it on the ground lol ) Once i get my Y pipe from Don she will be on the road.
#199
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario
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Car: 1987 Trans am GTA
Engine: D1sc 383
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Finally! My 383 swap
Here we go....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv_L3m1N6D0
thanks to gbayfisher for giving me the motivation to post the video lol
We found a fuel leak on the carb at the end of the video which we fixed. This was not dialed in at the time. I had a bad spark plug ( kinda dropped it on the ground lol ) Once i get my Y pipe from Don she will be on the road.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv_L3m1N6D0
thanks to gbayfisher for giving me the motivation to post the video lol
We found a fuel leak on the carb at the end of the video which we fixed. This was not dialed in at the time. I had a bad spark plug ( kinda dropped it on the ground lol ) Once i get my Y pipe from Don she will be on the road.
Did you change out the mounts?
#200
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NJ
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Car: 87 Z28
Engine: AFR 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4:11
Re: Finally! My 383 swap
I haven't touched it since that video. The fuel level on the carb window is 1/2 way on primaries and to the bottom on the secondaries. I think I need to adjust that.
I did have the motor plates switched. So I fixed that. The weld on the collector still hit the frame and I had to not it anyways. As far as the primary hitting I have 1/8 of an inch clearance now rather then it sitting on the frame.
I did have the motor plates switched. So I fixed that. The weld on the collector still hit the frame and I had to not it anyways. As far as the primary hitting I have 1/8 of an inch clearance now rather then it sitting on the frame.