gbayfisher

Thats tight for clearance, its sure to hit when loading the mounts, dont't you think?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i really didnt look at it when i revved the motor, this weekend ill take a look. I just hope the Y pipe doesnt give me any griefs. Like everything else with this build, it probably will

gbayfisher

I think you will be okay with the Y, it is multi piece, giving you option of twisting the angles if you need it.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

new dilema:

My fans are hooked up to my accessory box along with my fuel pump. Well the fans are drawing too much current and blowing the fuse. Right now i have my fuel pump getting power from the box, then i ran a wire to a switch to keep it on. What option do i have with the fans? Right now i bought i relay thats hooked up to the radiator, so i dont want the fans on a switch, and i dont want them on all the time.

gbayfisher

I would run a new circuit with heavier gauge wire. Eliminate the problem...... I wouldnt want my fuel pump to die on the street

Run a line directly to the battery with an inline fuse or add a heavy duty fuse box and hook up there.

What amperage does the thing draw?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i have no clue what they draw. Only thing i can tell you is when they kick on the motor goes from 900rpm to 500ish. I can only imagine what the headlights will look like when they kick on lol. As of now i unplugged 1 fan, but i wont know for sure if its good enough until I get it on the road and in some hot weather.

This is why i wanted some ideas, because i like both of them to work. 190 to 160 degrees in 20 seconds is nice to have lol

gbayfisher

Do you have the motor idling well now, and what amp alternator do you have?

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Yep, get the fans and the fuel pump on separate circuits. run some 10 ga wire to the fans, and use a relay. From the factory, these cars had two fans, one controlled by the computer, and one on a coolant temp switch. Maybe do kinda the same thing with your setup. Run one on a coolant temp switch, and the other on a toggle. You'll prolly never need the second one anyway, but if the primary fan ever quits, or you find yourself driving through a desert, it would be nice to have a backup.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Whatever comes with the 97 tahoe. Same amp. Thinking if I bout a deep cell optimum battery that should help also

gbayfisher

That alternator would suffice.
Not sure about the deep cell, I only use them in my boat! Would the charging system not kill it?
I would do what 88gunmetal said. Isolate the circuit, heavier guage wire, bigger fuse.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I dont remember what plugs i took off the stock shifter. Question is the long plug that the neutral safety switch harness is on, besides the purple and yellow wire (which is nuetral safety) What are all the other wires for in the plug? All i need to hook up is the reverse lights, and nuetral safety. Can i cut the other wires?

Next question. In the harness for the trans i have a 4 prong plug, and a 2 prong plug. The 4 prong is hooked up but where does the 2 prong go too? i dont see any places for it too plug into.

gbayfisher

2 prong is the speedo, should be coming off your body harness.
Are you retaining the computer? How are you going to lock up the converter?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

still using the computer, someone said the 2 prong is on the tailshaft? if the reverse lights and neutral safety switch are on the long prong, what are the other plugs for for the shifter? are they the console lights? Not like i had power windows or anything

gbayfisher

The speedo is on the tail stock, left side. You asking about the ones connected at the shifter?
I can look at mine and let you know what they are.

gbayfisher

2 prong if black/orange goes to console/compartment light switch. The black/grey 2 prong is the PRNDL light.
Hope that helps.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Thank you sir, now I know I don't need them.

So all wires I need are in the long prong. Just need to figure out which is the wires for the reverse lights seeing I found neutral switch.

Update yesterday and todays small progress:

Cut the sheet metal out for stock shifted brackets. Made trans tunnel flat and bolted down a thick steel plate for the megashifter. Hooked shifter up, alittle tight shifting but works. The wife will need 2 hands to shift it.

Bleeded the front brakes, to find out the main line to the rear rotted out and was leaking. Changed that line out, bleeded the driver side back, moved to passenger side when the driver side blew a line lol At this point I decided that every brake line was getting replaced lol. Most likely but not promising myself that I will have a video driving it tomorrow lol still waiting for my Y pipe, either this week or next week it should get delivered. I found my carb tuner and dyno shop to get it tuned.

gbayfisher

Thats good, you are progressing.
Reverse light wire should be the green one.

Brake lines! replace one... replace them all!

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Progress is progress.
I'm about to *hopefully* post a first start video, hopefully it will not be a CARNAGE video
I finally started a build thread, it should be pretty close to the top.

Good luck with your test drive!

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Took her for a ride. Unfortunately I was mistaken about the current rear. Am guessing the v6 auto and manual cars came with different rears. My last camaro was a posi 373 rear 5 speed. This rear is one wheel wonder and almost positive highway gears. My 3k stall, cam and highway gears are not cooperating with eachother very well hehe.

Ill post teaser videos tomorrow. And when I said a ride I ment around the block in a 25mph zone with kids playing lol

gbayfisher

Bad combo! lol.

How is it running now?

Forgot to ask....
What header gaskets and bolts did you use with the Afr heads?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Earls header gaskets with arp 12 point bolts. The whole motor is done in arp besides valve covers. Motors running ok. She has a little hiccup to her but is close. Motor didn't see over 3grand when I took her out. It was too loud and took too long to hit 3 grand lol

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

If you use a arp bolt you can take a 3/8 wrench and grind it down a little to tighten them. The bolts are so close with our headers it's the only way

gbayfisher

What are you going to do for a diff now? Your going to hate that long geared peg leg rear!
Any special locks on the header bolts?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I just used the washer that came with the bolts. I have a worked 10 bolt with 411 Richmond gears sitting in the garage. Am just lazy to replace it at the moment lol. Am putting the car on the road next week and doing the exhaust, then the car can come back home with me. My buddy has done so many third gen rear swaps am going to have him do it. I need a brake with the car. Am drained hehe

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

teaser

http://www.youtube.com/user/383Strok.../0/gOQT_Mrlpp8

gbayfisher

Get that exhaust and rear end on.......lets go, lets go.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Didn't motivate me today I motivated myself lol. After laying on the couch till 12 I was bored lol. Decided to get off my *** and do some work. Rears out. New shocks and traction bars on, made brake lines look all nice. Tomorrow she will go back in. I think my y pipe is in but got delivered to nj. So exhaust can't go on for awhile. Should be able to take her out for a spin later tomorrow. Will let you know and post a better video

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Update:

Rear, panhard bar, traction bars, shocks are in and complete. Took her out for a spin.....wow, that's all I can say. Those 4:11's woke it up night and day. I still have yet got her above 3 grand ( no reg, no insurance, no exhaust ) but I can say she's got some power

Oh and the tune is way off, so am sure plenty more power to get from that

gbayfisher

Busy day, wow, good progress.
Lol, be careful!
You need to get that exhaust on to give it a proper tune.
Based on your specs, I am sure she will pull like a raped ape

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Only driving it around the block, very short run, more like a teaser. Good thing I helped my uncle fix the state troopers suburban lol he gave me the ok

Don said he was shipping the exhaust out soon. Once that's on my mechanic is going to finish the tune, check valves and rockers. That should get me going good untill I get about 3,000 miles on it and bring it to the dyno for the fine tuning. Gimmie a month and the drivetrain is complete. 3-4 months ill start on the rollbar, sfc, and get the interior done. Then its time for the body.

gbayfisher

Good fun, it never ends!
Cant wait to get my intake here so I can finish.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

HSR right? U have everything else?

gbayfisher

Decided to try the FIRST tpi intake. Tranny kit and stall is also on order.
I would say I am 3-4 weeks from a start up in the car.
I am not touching suspension or diff at the moment, and I will see how things go this season, and will only touch what/if something breaks.
I just want to drive!

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

I here ya there! What I'd give to be able to take my car around the block right now. I'm prolly limited to that 3000 rpm max as well for now. Terrible tune for a big engine, and I wanna make sure I'm not getting any knock.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

2 days and she will be legal to drive

7 days until i see her again


Whats everyones going rate for a dyno tune? I got a quote from a guy who works on carbs specific. 150/hr for the first hour, then 100/hr afterwords. I need to buy a jet and air kit for the carb, and change them myself at there shop if need be. This sound reasonable?

Also i have no clue what kit i need to order for my carb. Any links are greatly appreciated. Thanks guy

gbayfisher

Dyno/tune is more here! 185-200/per hour, that would include a techi messing with the computer.
Call quick fuel? They may know exactly what you need.

MotorMouth

At the local shop here Tru Dyno Sports, LLC it's
$60 for 3 pulls plus $15 for air/fuel measurements or $110/hr

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Update:
exhaust is done, no tailpipe yet but still has manners on the street. Tuning needs some help, she's sitting at 1100 at idle. Got rid of the hesitation but she hiccups when I shut her off. Took her for her first 5 mile drive, runs a tad hot with only 1 fan hooked up. Am going to hard wire the secondary fan tomorrow. My brother is going to follow me with a camcorder tomorrow so you guys can see the outcome. Am very pleased. I opened her up for the first time to 4800 and was extremely impressed in the power and response. Video will be posted soon : )

gbayfisher

Cant wait to see the vid! Were you able to get the carb kit?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Haven't called them yet, when I bring the car back home with me ill get it. He tuner lives by me.

I don think the fan is the problem. I was bringing her back to the garage earlier and the Tach died on me. Then the car started overheating. Then I needed a jump. So the alternator is getting replaced tomorrow, those fans were barely spinning for being 3000cfm's. Took me 3 n

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

True custom work at its finest!

gbayfisher

lol

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

back to the drawing board.

Replaced the alternator today and fixed that problem. Routed secondary fan to a switch, inline fuse and the battery.

Serious cooling issues. While i thought it was amazing during first startup and it cooling as fast as it did, it does absolutley nothing while driving. 4 mile trip i had to pull over twice to cool it down, and thats both fans running.

Timing is off when i shut the car down it makes some baaad noises. So at this point am done with it for the time being. She is parked When i get someone to do the timing ill check to see if the water pump is working, if it is then am stumped. i dont think she is running that hot because of the timing, but i dont know

-3 core aluminum radiator
-6000cfm electric fans
-160 stat

gbayfisher

Well... I would think timing plays a part in heat build up. If you are running rich with retarded timing, I believe that can cause excess heat. And running lean can cause heat build up as well, plus engine damage.
I would pull plugs and see what they look like, at least an idea that it may be too lean. If your dieseling after shut down, than I would assume too advanced. Get the timing in, go from there.
One thing to look at is the lower rad hose, make sure it is not imploding/ calapsing, causing a restriction, and check it at higher rpms.
I know the f-bodies need the air reflector/air dam under the front nose to cool properly at cruising speed. Do you have yours on?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Need to verify timing and air fuel and work from there. Make sure the rad is full of fluid and there are no air pockets. Really look over that fluid system and after that see what happens. I had a few issues on first rad fill up to get the system primed up and all the air out. Also, air fuel ratio and timing will have effects on how hot the motor runs. You'd be surprised. So do those things and it should come around.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Heres what i have been thinking before i ask questions bout your guys post.

The water pump pulley came off the truck, the crankshaft pulley if off a F body. If the water pump pulley is bigger then the crankshaft that could cause issues right? i have not verified this but was thinking about it on my way home.

Water pump possibly go bad? I bought a new GM high volume pump. I did not verify it was circulating threw the radiator though as the car was about 225-230 when it reached the final destination.

I do not have the air dam under the car, it wasnt on when i bought it, i will however go locate one and throw it on. However the air dam should have nothing to do when the car is sitting at idle with both fans on. It should cool down.

Like said before i refuse to start the car and let it warm up untill i either find someone in NY who knows what there doing with timing and adjusting the carb, or i trailer it back to NJ and have it done.

I will look into the radiator hose on the bottom after the cars tuned and running.

Orr your the second guy that mentioned this air pocket. How do i get rid of this? Do i drain the system and start over?

Last question
My 1 to 2 upshift occurs within the first 2-5mph. I noticed this today. Even with the B@M shifter all the way down. Is the linkage wrong or do i need to change the govenor on the trans? Seeing when i put 3/4 throttle yesterday to 4800 i thought it was in first, little did i know it was the very bottom of second. Which makes me think it has more power then i thought

gbayfisher

Pulley size can make a difference, but not sure how much reduction you are now getting. you can verify flow and check for pressure at the cap.

Your right about the air dam.
Run the car with the cap off and, a few thermastat opening and closing should burp the air out.

I am willing to bet on improper fueling/timing being the issue though.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Round 9, here we go....

Heading to NY again....

This time around am having a professional tune the carb and the motor
Gonna install a new battery to fix 1 problem. Gonna have to fab something up for the Air dam, iv'e been lazy and didnt go search for one lol My appointment is tomorrow morning at 9. If all goes well i will have a video up sometime sunday. If its still overheating ill check the obvious then am sure you will hear from me!

gbayfisher

Good luck, hope you get it running well!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Good luck! hope it runs cool and runs strong!