1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

I am just trying to figure out why your headers are touching the frame on the passenger side. I have never seen that with Dyno Don headers and I have seen quite a few installed. I was just trying to see if you had to big of a gap on the drivers side. Can't tell from the pictures but maybe your motor is sitting to the right for some reason. Is the motor level in the car? I was thinking if the motor was to low the oil pan would be virtually right on the k-member.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

1/ 4inch or so gap to frame on driver side, had to push the brake line over with my finger, which was no big deal. Motor is level in the car.

You all can see how close the headers are on passenger side, you can see I smashed the primary, what u can't see it the 1/4 inch notch from the frame. And yes am well aware that the frame will most likely crack. I can almost guarantee. The weld on the primary is still sitting on the frame, after I smashed the primary I have about 1/8 in or less to hit frame. Guaranteed to rub when the motor twist.

Am just disgusted with the whole passenger side, whole mix of "custom made for third gen" and the price tag for it to not work.

Don't get me wrong. I read alot of post where these fit like a glove. And they are the best looking, well dabbed headers I have personally seen. But not my cup of tea seeing what I went through. Idk

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

figured out the picture, heres a better shot of driver side


fuel lines on

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

mounted the fans on the radiator, took me almost all day to fab everything up :P


and the back side, cant see well, i had to take out the cross bars behind the radiator for the fan to fit.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

a friend gave me his radiator plastics he fabbed up with a griffin radiator, so its not the best looking but it will be fine for now. Debating if am going to cut the radiator tray or not and fabricate a bottom plate so the radiator sits better. The fan closest to the nose of the car is hitting the top lip holding it from going in another 1/2 inch or so


And lastly the regulator and fuel lines are done.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Need some opinions.

The last time the car was started and ran was about a year ago, Since then has been sitting. Now the question.

1) will i be fine if i siphon most the gas out of the tank then trailor it to a pump and put about 5 gallons of race fuel in it.

2) Do i drop the tank and totally clean it out?

Am not sure how much gas is in it right now.

Back to work! Will post new pics later tonight or tomorrow

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

what were you doing for fuel system? If you havent replaced the pump, i'd do that now and drop the tank to dump out the old gas and check to see if the tank is clean.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Originally I was going to leave original pump in untill I started thinking about the gas. I was going to wait to put the rear in but I guess I mise well do it all now.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

U think angle on radiator is good for now?

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

OK, with that picture I think your motor is sitting over to the passenger side to far. IMHO you have to much of a gap between the steering and the header going by the installations I have seen.

Edit: One more thing. Don's headers are designed to fit with the factory mounts. So with poly mounts and other style mounts the clearances may or may not be the same.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Dude, you have something seriously wrong with that car.
The only time there has been an issue that I know of, the guy was using poly motor mounts. He got rid of those and everything fit fine.

Obviously I designed the headers to fit with stock mounts, if they didn't make the mounts like stock specs, then I don't have an answer for you.

I just finished installing a set on a '84 Firebird T/A, no issues.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

stock "new" rubber mounts or old sagging stock 100K mile mounts? Big difference too

My poly mounts only shifted my motor up, not really to the side one way or another

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Not my pratice to use 100k mile sagging mounts

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Well this is how I might see it. If I used stock mounts, passenger side might fit, but the driver side would hit. As u can see its only 1/4 till it hits. The car is straight, never been hit. It is what it is.

Now will I have a prob with your Y don or do I need a custom one made?

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

As you can see by those pics, there is no problem.
If you have issues with the fit of the headers, then yes, you will have problems with the Y-pipe.

There has to be something wrong.
I have too many of these out there that fit right.

gbayfisher

Lx4gxp.
Can you switch back to another mount just to check. Pain in the arsola, but it would eliminate one variable!
Grab a sixer and get under there!

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

..

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

And dont think this is a bash post on your headers, because its not ment for that by all means. Ill be first to step up and say its a great header, am just having a few issues lol

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

um no :P am convinced its 2 different looking headers , unless its the camera angle, post more pics if you can of passenger sides, worse comes to worse ill snap one like you did on that to try and get same angle. Primarys seem off IDK

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

acouple more pics, passenger side





if the motor sagged down 1/4 inch or alittle more it would hit

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I just googled some pics of the headers and came across another one that looks different then mine. The gap between 4 and 6 primary is alot larger then mine. Not sure why air tubes would be different but those were. Ill post a side by side of the 2 when I get to a comp

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah they do look alittle different to me as well... but in your pic, try moving the camera point down 6 inches and right 10 inches to get a shot down the frame rail more pointing at the AC box outlet like DynoDon has done. Middle primaries look different

gbayfisher

My middles look diiferent as well.... Maybe Dyno Don can clear it up, wondering if they changed the design? 6 primary now goes over 4, instead of behind. If it does not change the overall width out from the flange it would be fine.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately I went back to nj and not by my car, wont be untill next weekend

gbayfisher

I found this photo online, same design as mine for the most part. 6 and 4 primary are a little different in the bend, but i would say are close to identical with mine.
I am sure Dyno Don will clear it up.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

am sure he will, he's a great guy, but i still say the primaries are longer from the pictures

the pic you posted is what i was talking about

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Yep, my bad....

The picture I posted was the early design, 2 1/2 years ago I ran into a different set of AFR heads that have a different plug angle. At that time I changed the design so the they would fit all head combos out there.

The jig that these are built on was changed at that time and every set from then on has been built on that jig.

I hope you can find out what the problem is and clear this up.

I will try to get a current picture with the new design and post it up.

http://www.digitalpixeldump.com/data...sign_RT.sm.JPG

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

theres not much i can do to clear it up. If i switch motor mounts to stock the motor would sit lower. If the driver side drops any then it would hit. If the motor came over alittle to the driver side any more it would hit, i only have about 1/4 inch play on the drivers side both down, and to the right.

I just dont understand how the driver side is a tight snug fit with barely any room to spare ( wont hit nothing tho ) and the passenger side is off by over 1/2 inch if not 3/4

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Here are some pictures with the headers installed on a '91 Camaro.

Here also are some pictures of the different cradles that bolt on to the motor,
look closely, you can see the difference, one is wider than the other.
If you get them on the wrong sides, it will move the motor a 1/2" to the right.

The shine is gone off the headers because he let the timimg slip and the retarded spark over heated the tubes.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

If I move the shells I wont have any issues on driver side? 1/2 in seems ill hit kmember

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Here is the left side....

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Idk, looking at my driver side photo from top and bottom I don't have 1/2 inch to move the motor over. Only thing I can do is try it I suppose

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Finally, we got the motor mount thing figured out! Thanks Don! Those might as well be my motor mounts, same numbers stamped, and the stamp didn't work so great on one mount . The total difference in length from oil pan rail to center of bolt hole is 5/16". Which seems like its not enough to matter in most cases, but hey, its worth a shot man.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Don any clue when your Y pipes are available? Am hoping what you guys are saying that the mounts are on wrong and it will clear this up. When people said motor mounts are swiotched it confused me, but if it was the motor mount plate thats a different story

Am going to google the correct positions of the mount now, chime in if you know already just so i can confirm it

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Sooo

I. Called the guy I got the motor mount plates from. He had no clue there was a left and right plate. On top of that the ones he gave me were from a 1980 camaro......

Sorry for all the confusion don! I feel like an ***

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Update..........


She fired up. Took a whole 3-4 cranks before she took her first breath. Ran into problems which we figured out and fixed.

1) Dead fuel pump, no power to starter

Solution: Computer needed to be plugged in :P

2) Fuel pressure would jump up to 7-9psi then go dead, carb would fill up with fuel, start up, then die after 2 minutes.

Solution: Fuel pump would prime the system then shut off completely, Spliced the power wire and ran it into the fuse box, then to a switch. I now have to toggle the fuel pump on and off. No biggy as am going to have the 2 5/8 autometer fuel pressure guage mounted under the cowl.

3) A couple of fuel leaks we fixed, one in the carb and one on the rail. No big problem

4) Had to adjust the fuel level in the carb. We put the primary 1/2 way, and the secondary about 1/2 way in the side window.

5) I dropped a Spark plug and have an arch on 5th cylinder

Solution: brought it back and said it was defective :P

6) Fans draw a TON of power when they turn on, and it blew 1 fuel pump fuse already. We need to fix that still.

7) Put the correct Motor Plates on the motor, I had the numbers switched. But still had a problem. It looks like i didnt need to bash the primary in at all ( dent wasnt bad anyways ) But the weld on the collector still would not clear the frame rail. No Matter what i did i would of had to still notch the frame for the weld. Before the weld and primary were touching tight on the frame, now the primary and weld have day light through them. Very little on the weld though.


All and all was a great Saturday and Sunday. I Ran both my 16inch fans on a relay switch to turn on at 190, and turn off at 160. I think i went overkill on the cooling though. No lie it takes about 30-45 seconds to go from 190 down to 160. I had the car idealing around 900rpm, 70-80PSI oil pressure, fans turn on the car drops to 500ish, oil drops to 35ish lol. Last the 30 secs and we good to go again. Am going to buy a optimum deep dish battery and see if it helps, if not i might rewire 1 fan and put it on a toggle switch. Am not sure if i even need it at this point, but it draws ALOT of power. The car is at 34 degrees timing right now, i wanted to fix the spark plug before we dialed it in any more. She needs alittle more tuning.

Final Result:
Bad *** sounding 383 open headers lol

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

To do List:

- Talk to Don about a Ypipe, not sure if its going to work yet.
- Run the Catback and find a stock looking tailpipe
- Hook up B@M shifter
- Fix the power output on fans

Interior is staying out untill late summer or fall. I want the sub frame connectors on and roll cage before i decide to work backwards. The way the motor sounds the interior wont bother me not having any


I have a video while we were messing with the fuel level of the carb. It is 74.5mb. If its not too big ill post it but need help on that. I tried to upload it on photobucket but it took 5 min for 2% complete. Is this normal does anyone know? Any other way i could post it for you guys?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats a huge video file! None of my clips are much over 15mb if that.

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Man, I am envious. Good to hear you got er running!

My 383 is still sitting on the stand. I'm waiting on a few odds and ends, and I gotta finish fabricating my valve covers and serpentine belt idler/tensioner bracket.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

the video is only 1 min long. do i need to edit it

gbayfisher

Congrats on getting it running!
Where is the video file?
yes, sometimes even a 1 minute file can be big, depending on what filmed it. Keep compressing it, but listen for deteriorating sound quality.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i took it with my Verizon Droid X phone. It was a 3GP file that i switched to Mpeg. Am such a noob with video editing, i want to post it but not sure how lol

gbayfisher

Not sure , been wondering myself if the video needs to be linked to a video web hosting site?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Here we go....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv_L3m1N6D0

thanks to gbayfisher for giving me the motivation to post the video lol

We found a fuel leak on the carb at the end of the video which we fixed. This was not dialed in at the time. I had a bad spark plug ( kinda dropped it on the ground lol ) Once i get my Y pipe from Don she will be on the road.

gbayfisher

Glad I can motivate! Its nice to hear it start, how is the timing and carb setup coming along?
Did you change out the mounts?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I haven't touched it since that video. The fuel level on the carb window is 1/2 way on primaries and to the bottom on the secondaries. I think I need to adjust that.

I did have the motor plates switched. So I fixed that. The weld on the collector still hit the frame and I had to not it anyways. As far as the primary hitting I have 1/8 of an inch clearance now rather then it sitting on the frame.