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New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

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Old 01-25-2011, 08:23 PM
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Car: 89 Sport Coupe Vert (IROC-Z clone)
Engine: 383 Stroker TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 (3.73's awaiting install)
New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

I bought a new 383 and its going in when I get that nice tax return soon. The guy told me it should be pushing about 525-550 HP. Since I'm not a mechanic, I need to know what other parts that are going to need replacing. I know the tranny and rear end won't hold up long. And if I can find a cheaper or gently used rear end, I will do that,( point me in a direction) and take it easy on the trans for a while. Now you know my plans, I now need you to bridge the gaps. Please tell me the must haves, or anything else I am missing. I may not have enough cash to do it all at once, but I at least need reliability for the time being. Please help me get my parts list together.89 Z-28 convertible, stock....thanks fellas
Old 01-25-2011, 09:52 PM
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Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

I'd get a built 700R4 or a stock TH400. I don't think anything besides the turbo 400 will handle it in stock form. As far as your rear goes... bad news lol.
Old 01-26-2011, 10:34 AM
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Re: New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

Your rear is a gamble. Could last on you for years with you beating on it, or could last until you punch it one good time. My recommendation is to save your pennies for a GOOD rear end, or save for a modified Ford 9 inch rear fabricated specifically for the car. Either way it's not a cheap venture. You could get a billet rearend cover, and it helps - but it's a bandaid fix in the long run. I'd keep street tires on your car to help the rear live until you find something else.

If it were me, I'd go with either a built 700R4, or a nice TH350. Also important regardless of what you do - get a GOOD transmission cooler. This will vastly prolong your transmission life, especially in the event you choose to run a higher stall converter (which you probably will).

Also, with the torque from a 383 - get subframe connectors. I'd say that's probably the first thing I would do.

Take your time, and don't be cheap. Saving a few dollars now could cost you a few thousand later if you aren't smart on how you save.
Old 01-26-2011, 01:00 PM
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

Unless we are drag racing alot, I'd say stick with the 700R4 - much better gas mileage (a definite consideration now with $3+ current gas prices that are bound to go to $4 and above). A well built 700R4 should handle it fine - I have a friend with a 600+ hp motor on a 700R4 and no problems at all. If it's a strip car, TH350 would be the better option - they can be built to withstand almost anything.

The rear - again a drag racing question more than anything else - if racing I'd want to have a better rear, but if street driving, a 10 bolt would be fine. On the cheap can look into a 4th gen rear - great way to get 1) posi, 2) desireable gearing, and 3) LS1 rear disk brakes to stop that motor. A girdle would cetainly help, as wel as having the axle tubes welded all around - there's a sticky here somewhere about building a stronger 10 bolt rear.

As mentioned, I'd be concerned about the flex, and definitely do the SFC's if not done - especially since this is a vert! Make sure you use a wonderbar, and I'd get a STB as well.

Basics to get the motor in and car running - if 700R4 then you'll need a TV cable geometry corrector and a method for locking the torque converter. Regardless you'll need to drop the tank and install a carb pickup, or use the intank pump with a return-style fuel regulator (like the Mallory 4309). Of course an HEI vac adv distributor. Pass side wiring harness is all ECM related, most all of it won't connect to new motor, but don't hack it all out - tuck it in the fenderwell - having wires from cabin to underhood comes in really handy, and they'll all tuck away out of sight until needed.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:51 PM
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Car: 89 Sport Coupe Vert (IROC-Z clone)
Engine: 383 Stroker TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 (3.73's awaiting install)
Re: New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

Thanks for the input fellas, the subframe connectors and TV cables were things I would have overlooked. Thanks a ton for the advice. I should probably add that I did have a b&m shift kit installed; also with the counsel megashifter which looks pretty sick. I guess I just posted that out of curiosity for the trans and driveshaft. I thought I would at least have to upgrade the u-joints or something. Let me know if this would be a good idea or not. I'd like to add that this will be a weekend cruiser only and might see the track upon completion of the rear and trans, just to see what she can do. Also, I have headman headers that came with the motor, could I run both pipes straight back to a dual in/out muffler? Or would I be stuck with another Y pipe? I'm gonna read the other posts on exhaust but let me know if it can be done. Thanks again.
Old 01-27-2011, 05:14 PM
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Car: Black 82-92 Firebird
Engine: 383 Strokey
Re: New Carburated 383, now I need guidance...

I to have a 383 stroker in my Bird.

+ sub-frame connectors
+ transmission cooler
+ Walbro 255 electric fuel pump
+ posi rear

I've been reading on the forums and that's what I've gathered so far that is important. Quick question, is a knock sensor/ing module required? Also, what are they?

Regarding the posi, can I get more information on that? I always see them on craigslist. What is a decent price to pay for a posi? What kind of gearing options do I have, and what do I do with my old rear (non-posi)?

Thanks for your time and good luck.


!! UPDATE !!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-10-bolts.html

I found a solid link for information - might help others.

Last edited by Maggew.com; 01-27-2011 at 05:21 PM. Reason: found a link yo
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